Our first two weeks we will visit locations in western WA, primarily around Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Rainier, and the North Cascades, and then off to Iceland! Stay tuned to see what we're doing and learning about day to day:
A great day to meet 20 new friends!
During an introductory meeting at St. Edward's EERC classroom we reviewed plate tectonics using maps of earthquakes, volcanoes, mountains and ocean age around the globe. We also reviewed some climate science background as we start to learn about sustainability.
As a class, we brainstormed different ways that humans in general, and we individually, connect with landscape and environment and compared and discussed how these connected to the introdctory reading from "On Time and Water". We reflected on how stories and data can make people thing about the world in different ways and particularly about how Magnessson's stories of his grandparents realted to different perceptions of time - geologic time versus human time - and different scales of change.
Avery also shared a weird but impactful analogy about Hippos - how we sometimes plow forward creating new and sometimes unusualy ways to solve a problem instead of trying to stop the problem from happening in the first place.
Savannah Greenwalt and Ash Breault
Our first stop was the Mount St. Helens (Lawilátla) Visitor Center. We learned about the eruption and how the people living in the area reacted and responded. Learning about the Cowlitz name of the mountain "the one who smokes" gave us a different perspective on how to see the volcano. In On Time and Water Magnason connects to the glaciers personally, and he writes with great emotions so we connect the same we he does He uses his grandparents honeymoon to connect the reader to the land. It makes the readers think about the land around them in a more personal way. Mt St Helens is a relative to people who have lived around it for generations. The mountain is an inspiration before and after the explosion.
We hiked the Hummocks trail and really got a taste of how much the explosion in 1980 changed the landscape. It would've been cool to see this area before it started to grow back.
For our first overnight we stayed at the Coldwater Sciences Learning Center. At around 9:00, 13 of us hiked down to the lake. 7 of us swam in the surprisingly warm water. In the short video we watched many people talked about how surprised they were about the explosion, they were angry with the volcano. Getting to hike down and swim in the lake so close to the mountain created a personal relationship to it. Creating personal memories in the land shapes the people. This made the anger more understandable. childhood memories tied to swimming in the lake, and in minutes the lake is gone.
The next morning we went to the Ape Caves, two groups hiked the upper tunnels and one group hiked the lower cave. The caves gave us a picture of previous eruptions, ones that we weren't around to document. The upper caves were the coolest hike I have ever done. It didn't even feel like a hike. the difference between the eruptions was so clear being in these tunnels. This older eruption was much darker mafic rocks where the magma came from deeper in the earth. Compared to the light felsic rocks and ash formed by the recent eruption much shallower and slower in the earth.
The Hummocks Trail is a 2.5 mile loop in Toutle Washington with an elevation change of 220 feet. A great trail for beginners and serious hikers alike, the Hummocks trail provides more than exercise, it provides a great view, and a glimpse into the geologic aftermath of volcanic eruptions and landslides. Hummocks, the trail’s namesake, are essentially mounds of rock and debris that pile up after volcanic landslides or debris avalanches. On May 18th, 1980, Mount St. Helens erupted, and enormous pieces of the volcano broke off and were carried down to the valley floor and formed the iconic hummocks we can see today. The trail that was once bare, now shows off these unique hills made of rocks in many sizes and colors. Between them, forests, ponds, and wetlands have formed, showing how life is slowly returning to a volcanic landscape.
Mount St Helens, called Lawetlat’la (the smoker) by the Cowlitz Indian Tribe and the Yakama Nation, is deeply rooted in Indigenous culture. The mountain has been a place of ceremonies and teaching where histories describe the volcano as a living being with lessons about respect, balance, and human behavior. Today, the volcano is recognized as a Traditional Cultural Property (TCP) in the National Register of Historic Places and honors its significance to Native peoples. This ensures that tribal voices are part of the decision-making processes for conservation and education. Lawetlat’la is not just a landmark or a tourist site; it is a teacher and reminds us that landscapes are shaped as much by human meaning as by natural forces.
Geologically, Mount St. Helens is one of the most active volcanoes in the Cascade Range, built over hundreds of thousands of years from layers of ash and lava. Created by Mount St. Helens' latest eruption, each hummock contains a mix of rock types and colors and offers geologists a look at the stratovolcano’s structure. The human story after 1980 has been defined by scientific discovery and ecological renewal. The eruption created a “blank slate” for researchers studying how life returns to an empty landscape. Meanwhile, the Mount St. Helens Institute has worked to connect the public with both the cultural and scientific importance of the volcano. Lawetlat’la tells a story of how nature, culture, and geology come together.
Along with a stunning view of Mt. St. Helens, Johnston Ridge on the horizon, the majesty of Toutle River, and its impressive canyon, the Hummocks trail, of course, offers another unique sight: the hummocks! What is interesting about these landforms left behind by the rapid destruction of Mt. St. Helens’ north face is their composition. The mountainside fell off in three distinct chunks. As you walk the Hummocks Trail, you can use the knowledge of this landslide to identify which part of the mountain each hummock is from, by color! The first chunk that fell off formed the outer side of the mountain and was comprised of red and black basalts, which are rocks that come from oceanic plates. Basaltic eruptions are very rare from a volcano like Mt. St. Helens, so seeing these red and black rocks along the trail allows us to see real evidence of these rare occurrences. The second chunk consisted primarily of light grey volcanic rock from the old summit of Mt. St. Helens. This second chunk pushed much of the debris from the first one out of the center of the valley and towards the sides. The third and final chunk of the mountainside that came sliding down was made of a tan colored volcanic rock, which used to be inside the volcano itself! Most of this block traveled well past the trail, as it was launched over 13 miles west by the lateral blast of the eruption. These huge pieces of the volcano are now spread all across the Toutle River valley, and they pile up impressively along the trail as large hummocks.
Taylor and Peggy! Adorable bird that acts like a dog.
Waking up to the mountain view
First group in the upper tunnels at the Ape Caves.
First night together! Spontaneous hike down two statue of liberties (1,614 burgers) into Coldwater lake for a night swim.
Taylor Hewitt and Marcus Hunter
Today we visited the UW Seattle campus to tour the Pacific Northwest Seismic Network lab. The PNSN monitors for earthquakes in Washington and Oregon, with a high density of monitors in the Puget Sound, Willamette Valley, and Hanford areas. Puget Sound and Willamette are densely populated as well as having higher amounts of sediments and till that can amplify the intensity of earthquake waves, whereas the Hanford region is of importance for engineers monitoring the Hanford Reach Nuclear Project which I found interesting!
Seismologist Steve Malone presented to us, he described how in 1969 before he was on staff there were only a dozen seismic stations, and with the Mount Saint Helens eruption of 1980 (there was a single station at the beginning of activity in March!) there was a larger push for a monitoring network. Steve mentioned that there was “not a socially meaningful warning” for the eruption, even though we had 2 months of activity building up to the eruption. I felt this quote connected well to our discussions so far, how language and communication of science in cases of immediate danger like the volcano or prolonged but more potentially catastrophic danger like climate change, is incredibly important.
Doug reiterated this sentiment in his discussion of the earthquake early warning system development, having to consider what information and how much of it is useful in an alert, and how people with vision or hearing differences or without smart phones will need a different way of alert that we should consider as a society.
PNSN station map. Sensors supplied by PNSN/UW, University of Oregon, and Cascade Volcano Observatory.
Different types of earthquakes in Washington state
Some of the technical information I found interesting today were the different types of earthquakes and their differences in potential frequency and impact....
Steve Malone and some examples of seismic sensors (photo by Linda Reynolds)
Steve showed us different types of seismic monitors- broadband monitors a wide range of frequencies and are very sensitive, ideal for background monitoring or smaller earthquakes as they can be maxed out. Strong motion monitors stronger earthquakes but are not sensitive enough for less intense shaking, they are useful for busy environments like urban areas or where information on strong shaking would be important like in infrastructure.
Today we went to the Cedar River Watershed and hiked 4 miles with an 1160 ft elevation. We got there about 11 and went up in teams. When we all reached the top, we had a beautiful view of the watershed. We could see the flats of the moraines, the reservoir holding all our drinking water in the Seattle area, and the erratics left behind by the glacier that tore through so long ago.
The watershed was formed as a result of a glacier carving through, and in 1907 the Milwaukee Railway Company built tracks through the area, creating the town Moncton. The first dam was built in 1915, on the glacial moraines. This caused the town to slowly flood, and as water levels rose the townspeople moved around in rowboats, then the moved to the second stories of thier homes, until the houses were covered alltogether and the people had to evacuate.
When water levels fall you can see the towns skeleton.
We keep discussing the hippo-ness of human response to major issues, and I think Moncton is a great example. We can't stop and rebuild on higher ground, we have to go to work. I'm interested to see how this behavior plays out in Iceland.
-Adoura Greene
Rattlesnake Ledge is a viewpoint of the landscapes glacial history. In the past glaciers developed this region by reshaping this area through errosion and deposition. Past occurances can be observed by the visible characteristics of the valley.
Observed from Rattlesnake Ledge is the Cedar River Watershed. This protected landscape supplies Seattle's drinking water.
Postings from Rattlesnake Ledge Trail along signify a boundary of Cedar River Watershed. Public access and development near the watershed is restricted to protect the water.
An image of an historic hydroelectric facility near Rattlesnake Ledge. One of the many hydroelectric facilities present in Washingtion.
Regan Lindquist
The Rattlesnake Ledge hike views the glacially carved valleys of the Cascades and notably the Cedar River Watershed. We saw signs all around protected the land that is classified as the watershed zone because of how important it is for supplying water to the greater Seattle area. The watershed provides around 2/3rds of the water supply for Seattle and harbours lots of wildlife and nature that is relying on its supply as well. This watershed is a good example of how we can make good efforts to protect some of our natural resources in a way that both benefit peoples lives as well as the nature that has thrived there forever.
-Nathan Harrison
A trip to the Dams... by Finn, WIll, and Lisa
Seattle City Light opperates out of Newhalem, WA. They are changing the name to the idigenous version.
Andrew took us over the Skagit river bridge, one of the cleanest rivers in the country
The first of the three Dams on the Skagit river, built in 1924 and the first one to be complete. And recieved an expansion on its left side in 1961.
We went on a boat tour of Diablo lake, hosted by Seattle City light.
Built in 1930 its the second of three Dams that all together give Seattle 20% of all its power through Seattle City Light.
Andrew gives a talk about the history of J.D. Ross and his push for cheap and green power, and his wacky idea to turn it into a public specticle to gain public support.
The natural landscape was an ideal location for the damn being naturally narrow and having a 6% grade, becuase of the rivers and glaciers carving out the land from a glacial period.
Construction started during WW2 and becuase of that they did not have enough concrete so they had to import some and caused discoleration in the wall of the Dam. It was originally called Ruby Dam, being comlete in 1949 and renamed in honor of J.D. Ross. But even though it was finished in 49 its final planned hight was never reached because of pushback from locals and the conadian government because of environmental concerns, forming a treaty that lasts till today. This treaty formed a trade system between US and Canada preventing the expansion of the Ross Dam, creating a trade system betweent the two countries where Canada would give the US the access power that was lost from not expanding the Dam, and in exchange the US would pay for what the expanssion would have cost.
Party Cabins at KOA in Winthrop, WA. Featuring the Pixar light in the back.
When visiting the North Cascades, we discovered that it doesn’t have an entrance fee, but it’s also said that this park is the least visited in the country. This is a difficult metric to measure because they don’t have an entrance fee, but it’s so beautiful I can’t imagine not visiting it, and with how much Washingtonians love the outdoors, it doesn’t feel believable. We, people from the northwest, are so connected to nature that it’s involved in our everyday life to the point where our everyday clothes are outdoor clothing basically cycle through the four seasons in four weeks. We practically live and breathe REI, Columbia and North Face. We are similar to Icelanders who are at least at face value some of the most environmentally conscious people in the world, they make value from their beautiful landscape by sharing it to the world, preserving their environment while also making a business out of it. However, an important question stands: would they preserve the same untouched land if they couldn't make some sort of profit off of it?
Magnason talks about this in the chapter The All-Encompassing Silence of God's Great Expanse, where he loathes about the downsides of our societal views of worth, what does it mean to have worth? Would something like an empty field of rolling hills untouched by humans have inherent worth if left untouched? Or, does it need to be used in some way, the answer that Magnason found was that no, it needs to prove something to us to be left alone, and if it can't be a backdrop to a car commercial, or god forbid anything beyond pretty, it needs to be bulldozed and installed with a whole new 6 lane highway. The thing is, Washington can afford to have a few state parks that operate at a loss as they account for not even a quarter of our state revenue, but Iceland doesn't have that privilege. If all the tourists dissapear tomorrow, will they keep that land untouched and protected? We're both guilty of not being able to appreatiate Gods great expanse, trying to make something, anything, out of this land. would the North Cascades still be left so untouched if it wasnt so economical valuable, with it's hydro power and tourism?
The land is so beautiful and striking in the Pacific Northwest, that when we visited the hydroelectric dams, the beautiful lakes they formed felt very strange and unnatural. These are man made reservoirs with the allure of surrounding natural beauty, designed to pull people in to support sustainable energy sources. This is shown through the style of the dam's development and adding a curb appeal to them, not just grey depressing concrete structures.
It’s such a privilege to have the Olympic National Park, North Cascades, and Mount Rainier National park all so close to Seattle, WA. It is funny to live near so many volcanoes and not be so concerned about natural disasters because life will continue regardless of a landslide, earthquake or even an eruption. Prime example being the 1980 Mt. Saint Helens eruption, we just kept working and living life after such a catastrophic event.
A trip to fisheries and another dam....
Hatchery Staff educated us on Steelhead Trout and the process of inserting a tracker into the fish to track population. They also had a Beaver relocation program, as they were causing flooding for farmers in the area.
The wells dam utilizes bright yellow gantry cranes to install turbines and other machinery, updated in the 2010s to hoist up to 350 tons. The Douglas PUD developed the Wells Dam Juvenile Fish Bypass System in the 80s to help steelhead pass through the dam safely.
An old turbine from the dam preserved for education purposes. The sheer size of the power generating infrastructure puts the power of the dam into perspective
A small fire igniting just outside Cashmere, WA
Columnar basalt flows lining the Yakima Canyon. The oldest flows pictured are likely 15 million years old. The jointing pattern results from fracturing of the lava as it cools at surface.
Pictured here are the HWP (hot water pump) units. The groundwater is pumped into a filter before being sent to the heat transfer system. Water is then sent to HWP or CWP (cold water pump) units depending on what the individual rooms/buildings need. The water comes from a well that pumps from a depth of 1,800 feet below the campus.
The water is pumped out of the ground, filtered and condensed before being used for heating and cooling, and then pumped back into the aquifer in what is called an "open loop system". The project is part of the university's 25 year climate action plan, aiming to replace utilities that use natural gas with highly efficient electric power sources.
Airflow control room in one of the CWU buildings being heated by their geothermal project. Air quality is monitored and adjusted based on the temperatures of individual rooms and the building as a whole.
Ohanapecosh Hot Springs/ Mount Rainier National Park
by Linda, Marisa, and Landon
As we drove from Yakima to Mount Rainier National Park, we saw more evidence of our region's volcanic past. Pictured is columnar basalt. Since Iceland is highly volcanic, it will be intriguing to see the similarities and differences between the landscapes.
Shale like formations sticking up out of the ground - sure to be a tripping hazard for unwary hikers!
One of the many entrances to Mount Rainier National Park. This was the closest entrance to our destination, Ohanapecosh Hot Springs.
As we've traveled across the state, we've seen varied landscapes - from the valiant comeback of the volcanically blasted area around Mt Saint Helens, to the high desert landscape of eastern Washington that shows how much of a rain shadow is cast by the Cascades.
This difference in landscape will be especially fascinating when we are in Iceland. As we briefly discussed, Iceland's landscape is more similar to eastern Washington than to western Washington's lush foliage. Seeing different arid landscapes and how they are utilized differently could be a point of interest while we are in Iceland.
A misnomer perhaps, as the "hot" part of the springs was not very hot . This is evidence of geothermal activity that still continues in our area. The magma is closer to the surface here and as water seeps down, it is warmed and returns to the surface hotter than usual.
As the water returns to the surface, it absorbs carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulfide from nearby rocks. These gases escape when the water reaches the surface, releasing a sulfuric smell and creating bubbles. It was challenging and interesting to learn why the spring was different colors. The usual reason why hot springs are different colors is because of microorganisms called Thermophiles. However, these microorganisms live in temperatures between 106-176 Fahrenheit, which is nowhere near the temperature of the hot spring when we visited. People who put their hands in the spring estimated the temperature was in the 70s. Digging a little deeper into why hot springs are different colors, we found out the water comes out of the ground acidic, causing the various colors in the mud, while the green stuff in the water is just algae. From hearing about the hot springs in Iceland from family members who have traveled there, they always describe the hot springs as bluish or grey, so it will be interesting to learn how the difference in our geology makes our hot springs look like a dump while theirs look appealing.
According to the National Park Service website, a resort featuring a bathhouse, inn, and cabins existed, with plans to build a pool. This never came to fruition because they were required to update their buildings in 1961; however, they did not have enough money to update their facilities and were forced to close. The National Park Service eventually restored the spring to its natural state. Seeing in person how small the area is for the hot spring, it's baffling to think this could have been expanded into a resort. How the Icelanders developed their hot springs to be a sustainable natural resource that attracts both Icelanders and tourists alike will be a fascinating topic for us to learn about!
Thriving in the warm, mineral-rich runoffs of Ohanapecosh Hot Springs, these dark "mounds" that are seen in the streams of water feed on the dissolved minerals in the water, such as sulfur. Different species thrive at different temperature zones of the hot springs. We are curious to see if Icelandic hot springs also contain these mineral mounds and what their springs smell like.
St. Edwards State Park
by Gloria, Anna, and Louis
This was our group's final day in Washington! We returned once again to St. Edward’s EERC, the site of our first meeting, to do some final preparation for our trip to Iceland which will begin tomorrow. Up for discussion was our itinerary for the next two weeks as well as general housekeeping questions. With this out of the way, there’s nothing left between us and the flight.
Additionally, we split into small groups and planned out our presentations for the Icelandic students. These focus on various topics, from Geothermal energy to glaciation. For each, the goal is to clearly explain a little bit about Washington state to our peers overseas. After testing out our presentations on each other, it was clear we were all quite prepared.
This week, some of us paid a visit to the Cafe at St Edwards Park. The food was a bit on the pricey side, but tasted delicious nonetheless. Most of us stuck to simple picks like the fish and chips combo, or the seasoned fries and a small drink. The second group was more lucky, and had their drinks for free due to a technical malfunction.
Our visits to the Cafe are reflective of how much can change within our group in just a few days in mandatory close contact with each other. The first time we met as a class at the EERC, it was but three of us that ventured out together as strangers looking for a bite. This time around, nearly half the class made it over to the cafe as a group, and we were all chatting and getting along as if we weren't total strangers just a month ago. I'd just like to take this moment to reflect on how geology connects people, and it will be exciting to see how geology can connect us to our Icelandic friends in the coming days. Surely, we'll learn much about their local ecology, and have plenty of chances ourselves to indulge the Iceladers in our studies.
Following our time in Washington, today's meeting at St. Edward's felt a little different than the first meeting. Looking closer at the trees and landscape, considering how it came to be. Reading the placards near near the building telling of the staff and students who made the park what it is today. Looking at not just the human history, but taking time to consider the geologic history.
In the assigned small presentation groups, it was pleasing to experience how we have all gotten to know one another a bit better. Discussion is more free flowing and continuing on rather than coming to a quiet point at the end of discussing the assigned topics. Laughing together and working together to bring our best foot forward to be able to present what we have learned about geology and sustainable energy in our own backyard. While I came into this course with some precursory ecological knowledge of the area, my sense of the unique beautiful place we live has deepened with the enriching sense of history and understanding of all the natural power that has gone into the making of the scenes I see on a daily basis while at home. I pondered about how I might miss it, feeling the last summer sun before we return and it will be fall in full spring, the constant green trees to drive through our neighborhoods. While excited for visiting Iceland and learning about how the land there was formed, how the people relate to and are part of the land, and how the culture uses their resources- Washington will always be my home, and I there will always be a sigh of comfort when seeing a grove of firs.
Photos by Nicolas J Leclercq, Adam Jang, and Robert Bye on Unsplash
Mayelli Ayala and Marcus Hunter
Seven hour travel day from Sea-Tac to Reykjavik! Our butts hurt and everything was cramping after the third hour. Many of us fell asleep during the ride and others watched the free movies that were available on the flight. I did watch this movie called "The fires" directed by Ugla Hauksddottir, and it gave me a different perspective and insight of how Icelandic people see and work with the nature. During one scene where the main character Anna and her scientist dad are laying on the ground and listening to the sounds the earth makes, he tells her "do you hear that, Anna? There's a fiery heart that beats underneath us.. It's alive and it can swallow us whole". This scene tied to so many relationships humans have with earth. From Washington to Reykjavik there is this unbelievable connection to understand that mother earth is really a living, breathing being just like every one of us. As Anna mentions in the movie, "we are human beings in the face of nature. How fascinating to me to understand the power and energy earth has to provide but yet destroy, change, and distort."
Þetta reddast
Icelanders have a saying called" Þetta reddast" which means It'll all work out/ we'll figure it out/ Things will sort themselves out. Icelandic sagas hold history but before it was all written down their history was alive through oral treaching. Passing down life’s creation, news and historical events word per word. Oral teachings and oral history is common in Iceland. and so is calling someone . Communication is also highly implied in Iceland. Everyone here goes by their first name or the will introduce themselves as the daughter/son of, such and such. When events such as earthquakes or volcanic eruptions happen everyone her is quick to help eachother out and offer sancuary.
Vikings were known for farming and fishing. The men would plant and harvest for their families and animals while the women would cook, bake, stew, pickle, salt, milk, churr, and so on, taking up the majority of the day. Nordic gothics also known as dark pagan minimalism were also known for layering for sustainability. Using material like wool, hemp, linen and plant dyes that would keep them warm during the cold winters.
Konan sem ferðaðist langt, is a viking woman from the late 10th century, 980 AD. She is historically known as the woman who traveled far. Taking her to places from Greenland, Vinland, North America and Rome way before Christopher Columbus. Her story was fascinating because in the mist of survial, colonization, trade and religion- she shared stories, experiences and memories she made along the way that brought her and her community knowledge and wisdom.
After our travel day, we met our guild Olafur at Geocamp to get more acquainted with Iceland and each other. Olafur ask each of us who we are, what our major is, and what we are interested in with Iceland. I responded with my major health and natural sciences, and that i was drawn to Iceland's history, and not just the old Viking History but more modern history such as the Cod War during the Cold War where Iceland gained more and more fishing water to themselves from the British Empire.
Next we head to the coast near the church of Kirkjuvogskirkja, in Hafnir. Oli, told us about a ship called the Jamestown that washed ashore in the 1870s. The people nearby scavenged the ship for wood, due to Iceland's lack of trees and 55% of houses around the area were made from the derelict boat.
Later on our Agenda, was the fracture at the "Bridge Between Continents". The bridge's name is a bit misleading as I said before we were on a fracture where the land visibly splits, but it is not where divergence itself takes places. The plate boundary between the North American and Eurasian plate is splitting 2.5 centimeters each year.
Another place of Iceland's geological history. are the recent lava flows that occurred near Blue Lagoon and Grindavik. Grindavik was evacuated do to the amount of volcanic activity that threatens it, with only ten percent of the residents still living there.
To diminish more damage to property, Lava walls were constructed to divert the flow away from buildings. Large machines usually must construct a barrier in very short time before an eruption happens.
Despite the ghost town ambience of Grindavik, people are coming back to their homes, and a school has opened back up. For lunch, we ate at a restaurant located close to the harbor and had lamb, lobster, and vegetable soup.
Next part was back to the coast, near some cliffs that harbor a lighthouse. The lighthouse, Reykjanesviti, is Iceland's oldest lighthouse
Oli was planning to trek closer to the water, but signs warned about the group becoming unstable. So, we only went a short distance before we were walking on big rocks. The trail down was between a peak on its right on the paths left was a flat cliff. The flat part has a statue of an extinct species of bird, that were overhunted by humans. It serves as remembrance for them, and a reminder to conserve the environment they inherited.
Later we walked around the peak on a small trail and went down a boardwalk. On the side of the mountain, we sat down on the grass and gazed at the view.
Finn posing at the rock flow
A sample of the lava that was near Grindavik. Lava appeared to be a'a lava, as it was incredibly thick and sharp.
Jagged rocks are seen off the beach. On small island harbored a massive flock of birds.
Regan Lindquist
Starting off the day with a lecture and introductions we discussed some of the things we'd be observing around Iceland. We went over the different types of volcanos that are active, these included ShIeld and Fessures. Shields tend to be broad and wide with a low silica content and lava flows that produce Basalt. Fissure eruptions were demonstrated visually as the stretching of a shirt. Throughout the day we were able to put hands on and visualize these concepts while visiting Grindavik. As a group we walked on the Basalt of the recent lava flow and felt the texture of the porous rock. We also kept an eye out for red rusty looking basalt as we had learned that it is an indication of Iron oxidized. It was reassuring to learn that in the past 100 years no deaths have occurred directly from an eurption or earthquake. Back in the classroom we learned a few key terms that would help us during the trip. Vik means bay and Reyk is used for the word smoke. These terms have come in handy when going to various areas and understanding how they got their name. Oli often quizzes us, so its easy to remember. It has already been interesting to see the many differences between Washington and Iceland, going from tall strato volcanoes to the Fessures of Southwestern Iceland.
We started our day visiting the Hellisheiði Geothermal Power Plant, the fourth largest geothermal power plant in the world. It harnesses steam and hot water to turn turbines that creates energy. At Hellisheiði the magma is 5km below powering the geothermal heat; precipitation, groundwater, glacial melt water, and lakes provide the water necessary to harness the earths energy. They drill 1-2km down into the permeable basalt to 300C water that also includes CO2 and H2S.
In 8 hours water for heating travels 25km to Reykjavik and only looses 2C, this is walking speed. Steam is cooled to reduce heat pollution, and 90% of geothermal fluid is re-injected into the basalt- 10% is lost to steam and algae production. The steam from the seperators is piped into turbines and creates 10% of Icelands power.
This plant could power 70% of peoples energy needs in iceland, although most is used for heavy industry. The cost of geothermal energy is 8 cents per kwh, but energy prices raise in the winter with higher demand and lowers in the summer. Heavy industry uses up 80% of Icelands total energy production, and gets a 75% discount on energy cost from this plant.
95% of carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulfide are collected and inserted into cool groundwater to be pumped 1.5km below ground where it meets reinjected excess hot geothermal fluid. The gasses precipitate into calcite and pyrite in the porous basalt, this reduces the rocks permeability and will impact ground water recharge and the energy potential avaible to the power plant.
1. Carbfix injection borehole, pipe on right carries carbonated groundwater into a central pipe inside of the larger vertical pipe that carries hot geothermal fluid, allowing them to mix at injection. 2. Lea, our guide! 3. Basalt core post carbfix injection with mineral precipitates
Climate projections and net zero policy all rely on the existance of and extensive use of carbon storage in some form, coming into this visit this felt like a very vague concept and concerning that so much relies on its success. Although I still believe we should be changing our actions to reduce our carbon emissions rather than relying on mitigating our harm while continuing the status quo largely - this visit was very exciting to see the possibilities this technology has.
-Taylor
It is so interesting how people living in Iceland see geothermal power and water as a whole. Our guide said when the glaciers melt we will be able to use that power. She didn't seem concerned or worried about what else the glaciers melting will mean for them. Its also crazy how we are are able to precipitate minerals on such a fast scale. Turning a geological process into a human one!
-Savannah
A stinky colorful thermal area with red, orange, and yellow deposits due to the sulfur content of the thermal features such as fumaroles, mudpots, and hot springs. This area was formed by a hot intrusion of water underground, it is 1,000-1,200C, which is extra hot compared to other things we've seen. The magma gasses such as H2S (rotten egg smell), SO2, and CO2 mix with groundwater and rise to the surface. The compounds and heat create the deposits and break down the rock. Some of us hiked along a cold water stream to a higher viewpoint where you can view the full area and Kleifarvatn Lake to the north. There are several dangerous places that are marked off. These areas are not sturdy, they have high risk of landslides,
One of the deepest lakes in Iceland at 97m, formed during the iceage from a subglacial eruption which filled when the glacier retreated. It has no major inputs or outlets, groundwater flows through permeable basalt underground into and out of the lake. Large layered ash beds were visible which we had not seen yet, Bjorn inferred that we were near the eruption source due to the quanity. There was able to be so much ash because it was under the glacial ice sheet. These rocks were formed by layers and layers of eruptions over several years.
1. Boardwalk at Seltún geothermal area. 2. Ash at Kleifarvatn Lake. 3. Lisa with ash layers at Kleifarvatn Lake.
9/13/2026 | Finn and Nathan
Our first stop of the day was at Þingvellir (Thing-vet-lir) National park after driving from Start Hostel with a brief stop to look out at a very windy valley below us. Þingvellir translates to "Assembly Plains," where Icelands parliment called Alþing had gathered starting in 930. The Parliment gathered here from 930 to 1798. They would gather and give speechs and discuss law and politics every 2 weeks during the span of 930 to 1798. This area is also located in a rift valley with a lot of faulting going on in between the margins on the drifting continents.
-Nathan Harrison
We got to have a nice lunch at Fredheima Greenhouse where they had a huge amount of tomatoes growing in big greenhouses that uses a geothermal borehole to provide heating to help grow the plants at the farm. The scale of these greenhouses was pretty impressive, and cool to see how geothermal technology is used for even growing food. For them to produce food at this farm they have to use 100,000 tons of hot water every year. Geothermal heating makes it possible for Iceland to sustain some farming throughout long winters instead of solely having to rely on farming outdoors during warmer summer months. It also enables them to grow other vegetables and fruits that otherwise wouldnt be able to be grown here.
Gullfoss translates to "Golden Falls" in English and is a stunning two tier waterfall along the Golden Circle. There are multiple theories about the formation of the canyon and the falls. One says the columnar joints in the diabase create weak points that allow the river to erode entire columns during the event of glacial outburst floods. Another states that a layer of mudstone and looser gravel below the basalt was eroded and was unable to support the more resistant rock above it. The most likely explanation is that both processes are contributing. Additionally, the Hvítá river is fed by glacial metlt from Langjökull. The glacier grinds down surrounding rock into "flour" which remains suspended in the turbulent water and increases the erosivity of the river.
Sigríður Tómasdóttir was the daughter of a sheep farmer who owned Gullfoss and the land around it. When her father agreed to sign a lease with an English firm who planned to dam the river at the falls and build a power plant in 1907, she threatened to throw herself into the falls if the deal proceeded. For years Sigríður made trips by horseback and on foot to Reykjavik to meet with government officials, attempting to end the contract. She brought Sveinn Björnsson (future first president of Iceland) with her to assist with the legal claims. Although she never succeeded legally, the project eventually fell through due to a lack of funds and the contract lapsed. The land was eventually sold to the Icelandic government in 1945 when it then became nationally protected.
Many comparisons to be drawn between today and our Washington studies. The structure of Gullfoss canyon is not unlike the channeled scablands in Washington, basalt flows that have been carved by glacial flood bursts. There are many similarities between Andri and Sigríður. They both share the desire to protect the land simply for its beauty, it need not serve an economic endeavor.
Strokkur sending a blast of hot steam into the air
We have geysers in the United States, but the term itself originates from this specific feature right here in Iceland. "Geysa" in Icelandic means "to gush/surge". In the past, Geysir would erupt as often as every 3 hours, according to record from as early as the 13th century. It has been in a noneruptive period since 2016, but is still considered to be an active geologic feature. Geysir's neighbor, Strokkur, lies just a few meters away and erupts every 5-10 minutes. The geysers sit atop a subsurface network of hydrothermal cracks and fissures that are heated by the magma/heat source below. As the water heats up and pressure increases, the fluid expands through the cracks and out to the surface with enough force to shoot it up 15-20 meters into the air.
Iceland has a very small ferry fleet and we rode thier only electric hybrid, the Herjolfur, to Vestmannaeyjar (the Westman Islands). Upon arrival at either Landeyjahofn or Vestmannaeyjar, the ferry automatically connects to the charger. It only takes 30 minutes to charge the ship's lithium ion battery - the same amount of time it takes to load and unload passengers and vehicles. Using clean energy is one of the ways Iceland strives to be environmentally friendly.
Though Washington has a much larger ferry fleet, it only has one hybrid electric ferry, the Wenatchee, that runs between Seattle and Bainbridge. Also like Iceland, Washinngton strives to use clean energy and is in the process of converting more of its ferries to the hybrid-electric system plus building all new hybrid ferries. The plan is for the same charging system at all the terminals, so we might be seeing a simiilar type of automatic charger that Iceland uses at ferry terminals state wide.
On the main island, Heimaey, is the Eldheimar Museum that features a dramatic exhibit of a volcanic eruption on Jan 23, 1973 that occurred in the middle of the night. The townspeople all managed to escape but a third of the town was destroyed by lava and ash. This photo from the exhibit shows the town before the eruption of the Eldfell volcano, located a few minutes walk away.
The museum is built around the excavated house of a local family. There is still pumice and ash in the rooms and you can walk all around the outside of the house while marveling how well some of fthe familiy's personal items were preserved
This building on the outside of the mueum was left partially buried as an exhibit and is eerily reminiscent of ruins from Pompei.
The town as it is today. Some people chose to never return but others did and the town has flourished. The connection I see between Heimaey and Washington is our proximity to several volcanoes. Should Mt Rainier erupt, we may not have towns close enough to be buried in lava and ash, but lahars - the fast flowing river of volcanic debris and melted glacial water, would be the main destructive force. I don't know if I would have the heart to return and rebuild, but I admire thes grit of these Icelanders.
This is Elli, a Westman Islands local. She lives across from Guesthouse Hamar, and loves to make new friends!
9-14-2026 Ash Breault
The Lava Center located in Hvolsvöllur in southern Iceland is an interactive lava museum with exciting displays and exhibits including an earthquake simulator and an exhibit that compares your specific wingspan to the rate of Iceland's tectonic movement! Barbara, a Lava Center employee from Brazil explained Iceland's geologic history in depth and explained the constant monitoring system of Iceland's 30 volcanic systems!
Students learned all about Iceland's divergent plate boundary (the Mid Atlantic Ridge!) and it's hotspot, responsible for all of these volcanoes, and the black basalt we see all over Iceland.
Lava center mantle plume and hotspot instructional placards
Some adorable street signs on the westman islands feature puffin faces pointing you in the direction you need to go. These helpful little birds are here because puffins reside along the cliffsides of the Westman Islands before puffins migrate at the end of summer.
Street signs weren't the only puffin sighting we got on the 14th! We also rescued three baby pufflings that night. As migration starts, pufflings often get confused by the lights in the city, and jump from their cliffsides onto the island instead of the ocean. These confused baby birds need to be rescued, with gloves, placed in boxes with grass overnight, and delivered to the Puffin Rescue Center in the morning so they can be safely transferred to the ocean.
Birthday boy Nathan at the top of today's scenic hike, about to stick his head into an inactive geothermal vent.
These rainbow stairs led a group of students to a mossy volcanic basalt trail, where we viewed the northern lights, and eventually spotted one of the pufflings falling into the street!
The gorgeous northern lights, viewable from the island aroun 10pm to 1am the night of the 14th, thanks to electrically charged particles from the Sun colliding with gases in Earth's upper atmosphere
Nathan's birthday celebration invloved lively pool competition at a small local bar on the island, Lundinn (The Original Puffin Bar)
Louis and Landon
Landon Stremlow
Small, inlet creeks flow from the base of grass-covered hills. Far up the mountainous cliffs lays Eyjafjallajokull Glacier, where this water is sourced. It travels a few kilometers until it cuts deep into the cliff, smoothing gravels and rocks, erroded from the powerful, fast moving water.
A large marsh spreads out across the landscape beneath these hills. Several inches of mosses grow along the streams of this creek, with patches of other flora growing where the water is not quite as high. Iconic plants growing here are crowberry, cottongrass, nootka lupine, stone bramble, and harebell.
Our guide lead us through the ravine, following the serpentine creek. This gorge extends roughly 1.2 kilometers into the mountainside. High, moss covered rocky cliffs loomed over us as we navigated slippery rocks and rushing water. The deepest area was accessible via a chain connected to the rocks, which we clung on to as we climbed this section of the river.
At the farthest reach of the ravine, the water cascades down from above us, forming a deep pool of water, and quickly flowing into the river we had followed from the start. This fast flowing river further erodes the rocks, cutting down and to the sides. The shaded, saturated environment creates a perfect place for ferns and mosses, which also aid in breaking down the basalt bedrock.
This ravine formed due to the raw power of the glacier. Catastrophic flooding from glacial outbursts carves deep gourges into the cliffside, a path that the river still takes today. These flows would come from both Eyjafjallajokull and Katla, the most influential volcanos and glaciers of the region.
Following our first show of strength from a glacial waterfall, we visited Skogafoss, a much, much larger waterfall with easier access to visit. We had lunch at a nearby resturaunt, with a great view of the scenery.
Similar to Nauthúsagil, the river rocks here have been heavily erroded; everything within arms reach being smoothed by the torrents.
Skogafoss formerly bordered the coast of Iceland, prior to isostatic rebound and dropping sea levels, over the course of millions of years.
Reynisfjara Beach
Louis Auman 9-15-26
Reynisfjara Beach, the most famous black sand beach in Iceland, is a magnificent window into geologic time. Staggered basalt columns rise out of the beach at the water's edge, challenging the waves to surmount it. These sea stacks offer amateur rock-climbing opportunities, but their true beauty lies in the geomorphic forces which created them. The basalt forms in a way that mimics the ground beneath it, and varies based on the rate at which it cools (determined by the specific intrinsic properties of basalt such as heat capacity and thermal conductivity), and forms a distinct columnal shape so long as it avoids fast cooling due to water. Along the slopes of the hill. Moreover, as the continental crust has been compressed and uplifted due to isostatic rebound and plate movement, the basalt columns are further pulled from the ground to reveal their geometric designs.
Early 2026 featured some of the most devastating waves this beach has seen in our lifetime. Several tons of basalt collumns were eroded, transforming the entire atmosphere of the beach. In just a few weeks, we observed what could have taken decades or centuries of gentle erosion; the collapsed basalt sprawled out along the coast for months before it was eventually redistributed by the calmer westerly winds and waves lapping at the foothills. What remains is freshly exposed rock that tells us a story as ancient as the Earth itself, although the island itself is barely 20 million years old. In the distance, remnants of what was once a magnificent outreaching cliffside still stand scattered in the water, clinging on for dear life, a testament to the durability of Earth's creations. Individual rocks are tumbled and polished in the ocean for beachgoers to pick up and admire, perhaps even formed from February's rubble.
Landon Stremlow
An outlet glacier of the massive Mydalsjokull, Sólheimajökull was our first visit to to the foot of a glacier during this trip. It stretches about 8 kilometers long and 2 kilometers wide.
This wide gourge was carved almost entirely from the glaciers past and present extent, as well as glacial floods. Acting as a bulldozer, it pushes massive amounts of sediment forward, creating glacial morraines. The glacier scrapes everything in its wake, dislodging boulders and carrying them with its movement, depositing them further down the canyon as "glacial erratics", and smoothing any material it can't pick up, leaving deep, clear striations across rocks.
Due to the affects of climate change, it has been receding at an average of 120-200 feet per year. When a glaciers summer melt outweighs the winters snow accumulation, the glacier begins to recede. Our tour guide, who has been visiting all his life, stated that it has receded over a kilometer since 1973.
The massive amount of meltwater that is sourced from Sólheimajökull, results in Jokulsa, a meltwater river that flows through a massive glacial outwash plain before reaching the ocean on the southern coast of Iceland.
Walking along Jokulsa, we could spot many huge icebergs with clear, horizontal black lines, spaced out sporatically throughout the ice. These lines indicate ash and tephra from past volcanic erruptions, that were then covered with more ice and preserved for tens of thousands of years.
These layers can be used to date previous eruptions of volcanos like Katla, as well as date the glacier itself. Using ice cores from glaciers around Iceland, we can date Katla's earliest erruptions to around 2920 BC! These layers of ash also aid in determining the regularity and intensity of past eruptions. We build a kind of timeline with ice cores, telling the story of this regions ice and fire.
Louis Auman 9-15-26
Our lodging for the night is uniquely quaint and Icelandic. The atmosphere of the night was set by the beautiful sunset and perfect weather, and the Icelandic horses paid us a kindly visit if not only for our delicious hand-picked selection of grass. The hotel itself is proudly sustainable and functions in part with the farm to feed its guests and reduce food waste. Artifacts such as this tractor decorate the dining hall, and other guests comfortably roam around the farm, taking a breath of fresh air away from their usual busy lives. This stop in our trip was a much-needed rest for many of us after several full-on days of travel, abd we are more than happy to recharge our batteries in time for the upcoming sailing excursion. At the halfway point of our journey across Iceland, many of us find the island home-y and comforting, but the mystery of the island's glaciers keeps the group ready to spring into the next big outing.
Brought to you by Will & Lisa
Today was a relaxing day in the countryside at the Hotel Fljótshlið and Smáratún Farm Eco-Lodges. The rain was beautiful, it was a slow morning, with fresh goat leg, fresh baked bread and yogurt that apparently is closer to cheese named Skyr.
After breakfast we went in to town to a “thrift store” that was more of a small cute shop, and then headed over to pizza for lunch. I quite enjoyed the pizza, but I was so stuffed. So stuffed we decided to go to a local geothermal pool. The pool is a normal swimming pool thats heated by the geothermal methods, so its not a natural spring, but its cool because they have different tempertures for each pool, and a water slide. Regardless of the pouring rain, we were out with the locals swimming and having so much fun.
It was relaxing, when we got "home" to the hotel, most of us took naps and relaxed.
Staying in the countryside is a persuasive way to love the land thats created by volcanoes and the mid atlantic ridge. No matter how dangerous the area is.
The sheep go up in the mountains, then when they return to the homes, they spit them up and sorted them in to a quadrant of this large pie shaped space called a Rettir, with the inner circle called the commons or Almennungur and the outer pieces called Dilkur. By identifying features that farmers put on them... like a priest cut off both ears to identify his sheep. Why a priest did that is a mystery but it could be to steal sheep and make them his own. Also, when the sheep come down, it was a big event that brought the town together, out of obligation, shunned if you didnt participate, or pay your way out, but you had to help sort sheep. Counting sheep, and not falling asleep. Wow.
Now, less and less sheep are going to the mountains because the population is eating less lamb! This is a continuation of the trend of the decline of farmers in iceland, as other industries become more important to Icelands economy as they can afford to focus on more than just food and survival. This accumulation of power in the farms can be easily observed in the early history of Iceland with the powerful people having great control over livestock, like with the Icelandic civil war involving two powerfull families who made their wealth from holding power over all the farms in their sector as they were the life blood and soul importance to the country. bringing it back to today where farmers have to be subsidized by the government to stay in business, they are no longer able to sustain themselves as the economy shifts focus to other sectors like fishing, tourism, and heavy industry.
By Gloria and Anna
Outlet Glacier of Fjallsjökull (credit to Anna Wright)
Group photo in the glacial lagoon (credit to Nathan Harrison)
Our tour guide, Mars, showing a piece of glacier for us to hold (credit to Anna Wright)
Iceberg in lagoon from calving (credit to Anna Wright)
Our primary activity was to visit the glacial lagoon of the Fjallsjökull glacier, located in Vatnajökull National Park. We left the farm early that morning, venturing out for 4 and a half hours before reaching our destination. We had a buffet lunch at the restaurant overlooking the lagoon, and some of us spent some time hiking the nearby hill to view the extents of the lagoon. At 1 pm we donned puffy jackets and life vests in preperation for the cold conditions, and within the hour we set out onto the lagoon. We took 2 seperate boats, driven by tour guides Max and Mars. They provided information about the various colors we could see on the glaciers. Black is primarily ash from previous volcanic eruptions, blue is highly compacted ice, and white is ice that is less dense and contains more oxygen. They fished ice out of the water for us to look at close up and hold. From this, we could experience the raw nature of the ice that makes up the glacier. While it appears as black, white or blue, it is clear, and we could also observe the particles of basalt rock within the ice.
The icebergs found in the lagoon were originally a part of the outlet glacier itself, falling off in chunks in a process known as calving. Additionally, the tour guides explained that the conditions in the lagoon are in constant flux, with icebergs the size of apartment buildings travelling the length of the lagoon in mere hours. Approximately 90% of ice in the lagoon is underwater, with only the top 10% of its mass exposed at any time, which can cause icebergs to flip, rotate, or break at unexpected times. In the process of calving, flipping and moving smaller pieces break up in the lagoon which as boat guides they must be continually aware of to navigate safely.
After making it safely back to shore, we got back on the bus and drove an additional 5 and a half hours to Reykjavik for a late dinner, where we prepared to meet Andre the next morning.
Similarly to the Sólheimajökull Glacier, the changes have grown more and more rapid as climate change has intensified. The glacier's sheer scale inspired awe, but the feeling was overshadowed by the deep grief of the all too visible loss. Our tour guides were able to point out a spot several meters past the end of the glacier where it had once been present not even a year prior, making it clear just how quickly it is dissapearing. As we learned in class, if things progress as they are now, the glacier will be entirely gone within the century. We had been told this weeks ago, but the true scale of what is being lost wasn't truly able to be comprehended until this moment. The entirety of the glacier was far too vast to see, but even the portion that was visible was so much greater than anything we could have imagined. And yet, as Andre described, it has now been made to be as ephemeral as a persons life, fragile and fleeting.
By Mayelli, Adoura, and Marisa
We meet Andri at 10 am at his office in Reykjakvik. He told us about his journy from finishing highschool to becoming a professional writer. He started with writing poems using his observations on how folklore and the earth interact to inspire him while also trying to cross generational divide through his work and connect people through stories and culture. He wrote a short story, childrens book, sci-fi novel, and then On Time and Water in 2019. Since then he does not feel a need to revise On Time and Water but he also feels a need to expand on the ideas put forth so he is currently working on a second book. When asked if he thinks green energy industrial sites is worth the benefits to the climate over the beauty of the natural landscape he remarked "time almost always gives things some kind of beauty". We discussed how everything hurts the earth a little bit and how do we manage to balance that harm, he talked about how all green energy has drawbacks but the goal is to minimize the amount you do. For example, electric cars are great but driving less is also effective, "we shouldn't have to wrap our families in five ton blankets, we use our cars as coats". Andri said he would be willing to sacrifice Iceland and himself if it would save the world from the climate future ahead of us, but unfortunately, the effect they could have would not be big enough to save us from what is to come. Our main take aways from this meeting is however depressing climate work is we still need to find some joy in it "just like we have to entertain ourselves to death we also have to entertain ourselves to life".
Lunch was at the university of Iceland, Haskoli Islands. Many colleagues spoke on how different the food courts and bookstore looked at there campus. Mayelli spoke to a masters student who is majoring in business engineering that was currently working on his thesis statement. He mentioned that he likes to pass his free time at the gym and was happy that I walked up to him to start a conversation. After lunch we all broke out to downtown to do last minute shopping and site seeing. This was also our last time with Olaf. He mentioned a few things that really grasped many of our attention. One thing he mentioned that stood out was that he doesnt like the idea of the word teacher but he does like the reference "guider". Because we cannot dictate what people take away from our interactions, but we can influence them. Another saying he shared was from a Northic methology from 1000 years ago, "cattle die, people die, we die. But a good reputation will last forever." This stuck out to us because Olaf was a very great host and gave us his best, he showed up everyday excited to teach us about the country he was raised in, and all the things he loves most about its beauty and complex history throughout the ages. He has shown us that being intentional and taking pride of where you come from can take you very far. Key notes to this afternoon was making use of our time and understanding how time is very valuable, what is a permanent fixture of the earth to a human is is a fast motion in the greater scale of time..... "Time almost always bring beauty."
By Erik Johansson
Erik Johansson
Our journeys end is here. For breakfast, we got waffles along with other food like toast, cereal and watermelon.
After breakfast, we started packing up and prepared for the bus to arrive. The bus showed up and everything was here and we were ready to go. Our bus driver was a different guy then yesterday so we could further bond with the new guy. But he did his job and we arrived at the last hostel.
At the hostel, everybody was deciding on food and what to eat. We couldn’t use the hostel kitchen, so we had to get food elsewhere. Avery went to a grocery store to get wraps. Other have gone to a nearby cafe. I had a boring old ham sandwich with some tasty onion & sour cream potato chips.
The hostel has a sizable lobby that can be used as a workroom for our final writing. The individual rooms have a lot of bunk beds. The boys' room I'm in has four bunk beds for eight people. In the room, i saw four desk lamps on top of night stands at different sides, but I could barely find any power outlets for them. I ponder about the whole journey we had, about the place and the people and how it will all look in the present and the future. To remember the breath-taking nature, the informative lectures or the fun moments I had with everybody else, it makes you proud of all the activities you have done, the experiences you acquired or the new friends you made.
For me, I have climbed a short cliff off a river, learned about a shipwreck that sustained a community’s housing, and have reentered chess with the help of Marcus. I will always value these experiences and will hope I can get more on future trips.