The Ecology of Materials: Chita as a Tangible Means to an Intangible Heritage

(A multidisciplinary, collaborative, and speculative approach.)

K.Cobb, C. Guerrón Montero, D. López-Gydosh 

Funded by 2022 Interdisciplinary Humanities Research Grant for Collections-based courses 

Keywords: textiles; cultural phenomenon, expressive medium, critical discourse, immersive forum, 3D technology.

Chita Padlet (view interactions with students in Goodwill DDC) 

Final report (see images here!) 

Summary/Introduction: The Brazilian textile Chita is an ideal expressive and critical artifact to apply as a teaching tool. This project maximized the notion of the textile as metaphor, using the iconic Brazilian textile as a springboard for collaboration, critical discourse and creative expression resulting in a signature Immersive Forum 3D narrative gallery. This project proposed a multidisciplinary, collaborative, and speculative exploration of Chita–a textile that represents Brazilian visuality as a bridge to elevate our academic collection and access academic collection through minds-on observation as well as hands-on analysis of current holdings. Students explored theoretical approaches in material culture, as well as critical, creative and expressive artifacts through hands-on, multidisciplinary research during one week of events  in collaboration with the Departments of Anthropology and Fashion and Apparel Studies. During the week, activities ranged from zoom interviews, live and asynchronous discussions as well as live analysis “in the field” during the Goodwill retail pop-up lab event. 

1.Trace and deconstruct the Brazilian textile Chita, primarily through visual, contextual, and comparative analysis. Dr. Dilia López-Gydosh led this objective. Activities undertaken to achieve this objective included a collaborative on-site workshop with key artifacts from the collection. Dr. López-Gydosh guided the participants through the importance and process of object-based research (figure b), guided by Mida’s (2014) Checklist for observation (Appendix 1.) Each collaborative team participated in an object analysis and shared “a-ha moment” findings via a CANVAS discussion (Appendix 2.) 

Example of a-ha moment: Emma Bernstein, Amber Schlichtig, Sabina Salguero stated that “Our garment was a two-piece outfit (shorts and shirt) for a child in the 1930's/1940's. The top was printed with pink flowers and stripes while the bottoms were blue. We had originally believed that it was meant for a young girl due to the styles and color, however we realized after researching the decade that it was actually for a boy and that our own biases were clouding our observation.”

(figure c: Padlet comments on Laura Santos interview) 

2.Guide critical discussions about beliefs, values, assumptions, and culture formation through material culture analysis. Dr. Carla Guerrón Montero led this objective. Activities undertaken to achieve this objective included a series of interviews (both live and recorded) from experts and cultural workers in Brazil. Students experienced a live interview with quilombo leader Laura Santos and recorded interviews with experts Nassu, Siquiera and Massi. A CANVAS discussion board captured conversations for this objective (Appendix 3.) Students were also invited to post images or impressions on the Chita Padlet (figure c.) 

Example of a-ha moment: student Miranda Rack noted the following about her impressions on Sequeira’s and Santos’s interview: “She mentions how even though the fabric is representative of lower income, it still is a symbol of joy. When evaluating my textiles, this reminded me to look deeper into the darker background of the textile, even though it is so bright. I loved the part of the Laura Santos where she talks about how ‘art is free’ and Chita should be expanded. She has a unique opinion on cultural appropriation. When I evaluate Chita, I need to determine if it is appreciation or appropriation.”

(figure d.: Goodwill store speculative exercise) 

3. Co-design a speculative exercise in culture building, developing a print/color campaign. Professor Kelly Cobb led this objective. Activities undertaken to achieve this objective included an on-site workshop at Goodwill. Notably, students applied analysis “in the field” at Goodwill retail pop-up lab. Professor Cobb facilitated 3 collaborative workshops (see Appendix 4.) 

Participants applied their initial learning in object-based research and observation through a speculative approach; the students were asked to consider themselves researchers from the ftuure, and the retail floor was positioned as an archive from the past. There were several tables that included four to five participants from the three courses. The participant researchers were tasked to visually analyze an artifact from the archive, including Item/style, color, motif and scale analysis, observational sketching scales of floral motifs and any design details. Individuals were asked to comprehend perceived use. Participants reflected on why they chose the object and share their insights with their small group (figure d.) The collaborative element involved the student teams visiting the archive to choose one final object that might connect each individual artifact. The teams were then asked to write a narrative about the grouping of the artifacts-to unravel a narrative; they were also asked to post on the Chita Padlet. 

Examples of an aha moment: Student Diane Sanchez noted that ‘by working together with the anthropology students I was able to pick up analytical skills not just from a fashion perspective but from a cultural perspective. For example, when analyzing a floral Banana Republic skirt from Goodwill I began to think about the previous owner that wore it. Were they upper-middle class? Did they enjoy going to beaches? What made them choose this article? These questions were further driven by when using the Prown method to evaluate the article. The deduction section

with emotional response and sensory engagement allowed me to think about what this piece evoked and what the previous owner might have felt. This analysis made me look at clothing dif erently and wonder about its history.`` 

Student Zhaoyu Wei noted that “Chita is an excellent example of material culture in South America, but material culture can be found everywhere. Last Friday, we did field studies at the thrift store on Main Street. The idea is how to understand culture throughout everyday material in real-world settings. Each of us was asked to find a floral subject during the event. A fascinating story happened here; after our group members returned to the table to tell the narrative of our artifacts. 

Student Abreanna Wright said: “I'm an Organizational and Community Leadership Major, so I can’t really connect this assignment to any projects I’ve done. However, I can say that the concept of community and collaboration are the most meaningful parts of project planning. I think it’s very important to understand your team members and build a sense of trust. Once trust has been established, you can start building relationships that lead to community building.” 

Impact: This project directly impacted approximately 72 students. Additional activities were developed to accommodate a second Anthropology class activity (Anthropology of Clothing, Kedron Thomas-see fig. e). The units developed below were taught as a class session; all students received the content from the three courses.1 

● FASH 417: Lifecycle approach to Apparel (30 students). This discovery learning course included a unit on cultural patterns (including the dialectic relationship between sacred and mundane/profane) of mainstream US fashion through the analysis of the cultural objects at Goodwill. Students discussed unsustainable fast fashion and 

overconsumption, as well as the colonial legacy of textile production, labor, and privilege. 

● FASH 319: ANTH 200: History of Anthropological Theory (Guerrón Montero) This required course for anthropology majors included a unit on theoretical approaches to material culture in anthropology. It also addressed two core concepts in the discipline, the sacred and the profane, through the analysis of the chita fabric. It connects the textile (chita) with the history of resistance of quilombo communities in Brazil. 

● ANTH 200: 15 FASH 319: Dress and Textiles in World Cultures (López-Gydosh) This required course for fashion majors (and multicultural elective) included a unit on cultural patterns of dress, analysis of cultural objects within the collection. 

Future research: We plan to carry out the following activities in the near future: - Launch of Immersive gallery during UD Fall fashion fest. 

• Co-authored pedagogy paper. This paper will be submitted to  the scholarly conference International Textile and Apparel Association. 

• A second dress studies/collection curation focused paper describing the immersive gallery development and curation . 

• The print campaign will ideally be realized during next spring Climate Hub Earth Day Clothing Swap as part of FASH 417 Spring2023 

•  Ideally, we would like to seek funding to run a revised version of this collaboration