Once Upon a Truffle

Once upon a time, the truffle…

Since the time of Nicolas Appert, truffles—like many other treasures of the earth—have been enjoyed both fresh and preserved. For a long time, they were primarily prepared in preserves, stored in sturdy metal tins after being purchased, sorted, and carefully washed in markets across France and beyond.

It is from this tradition that the famous truffle juice was born: nearly four kilograms of truffles are required to produce just one liter of this precious liquid.

In the past, the great recipes of French cuisine relied heavily on these preserves. When properly crafted, truffle juice enhanced dishes and revealed the full aromatic depth of the product. When brought together in sufficient quantity, truffles exchanged aromas, reinforced one another, and developed a unique flavor signature. By contrast, modern small jars cannot compete with these long maturations in large tins, where flavors evolve slowly over several months.

The quality of the preserving process made—and still makes—all the difference: controlled cooking, respect for the raw material, and genuine craftsmanship. This stands in contrast to certain past practices where truffles were sometimes overcooked multiple times to extract more juice, at the expense of their true gastronomic value.

Fresh or preserved: two complementary approaches

Today, the dominant narrative highlights fresh truffles, for several reasons.

First, direct sales: more and more producers aim to sell their entire harvest without intermediaries. However, some highly publicized markets can bring disappointments—heterogeneous batches, unripe or frost-damaged truffles, products washed days in advance, or stored in moss or sand, all of which can alter their aromatic expression.

Second, the element of spectacle: table-side service and shaving truffles in front of guests are part of the experience. While entirely legitimate, this should not overshadow the fact that black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) reveals its full potential in cooking. It withstands heat, binds beautifully with fats, enhances sauces and jus, while retaining a delicate firmness. It can be enjoyed from starter to dessert.

Finally, there is an economic factor: selling fresh requires less inventory and working capital, which attracts many operators. However, identifying a reliable supplier then becomes a real challenge for professionals.

Price and quality: a delicate balance

In the world of truffles, price generally reflects a certain level of quality. Simply being “cheaper” guarantees nothing.

Shape, size, firmness, maturity, aroma, texture—every detail matters. An exceptional fresh truffle will yield an exceptional preserved product. Conversely, a mediocre product—frost-damaged, unripe, or deteriorated—can never result in a high-quality preserve.

Unfortunately, some companies, in France and elsewhere, prioritize volume over quality, using lower-grade truffles or even flavorings to compensate for a lack of taste. While this may appeal to occasional consumers, true connoisseurs seek authenticity above all.

Seasonality: a key factor

The earlier a truffle is harvested, the more delicate its preservation. It is therefore best to avoid purchasing truffles in early December for a Christmas meal, as they may lose their aromatic intensity.

By contrast, truffles harvested from mid-January onwards, once fully mature, express their full aromatic potential.

Fresh shipments can be organized at the beginning or middle of the week to ensure optimal delivery, perfectly aligned with your preparation needs.