Around Langkawi Island

(27-Jul-2008)

During the 6 days it took us to sail around Langkawi Island, Ruth and I reviewed what it takes to be a sailor. We sailed down the bay 8 miles to our first anchorage. Sounds easy? Well you first need to dismantle your umbilical chord from the land, which includes water, boat sun shade, power, Internet, shops, pool, and something to attach to. We anchored in a nice safe spot the first two nights. Not far from a large fish farm where the Hong Kong personnel had been feeding the fish for over 2 years. While we were there they had a large wooden boat from Hong Kong to pick up their first load of fish, to be taken alive to Hong Kong. We got a kick out of seeing them raise their Malaysian flag upside down, then after some discussion, make the change. We anchored in 9 Meters with about 75 Meters of anchor chain out, ready for a serious storm, but it was pleasant. Raising the chain was a real exercise - the mud and clay was horrendous - took the best part of an hour using our salt water pump to clean the anchor chain. Went snorkeling and inspected the bottom of the boat, scraped the barnacles off the props, and inspected the zincs - all looks good.

Day 3 sailed to Talagha harbor where we anchored in a cove behind two small islands with several other boats. Took our dinghy to a Great! Mediterranean style restaurant at the nearby Marina. (You can see a pic of it on the last posting) Next day we experienced our first Squall while at anchor. If you are lucky ,first you see a dark low cloud headed your way, then you feel the cold blast of air, followed by all hell!!! Wind went from zero to 35 knots in seconds, followed by horizontal rain. The rain feels like hail hitting you in the face, the boat yaws from side to side trying to dislodge the anchor, while you stand there in sheer terror and amazement. Not a lot you can do - put on your foul-weather gear, maybe crank up the engines, let out a little more anchor chain, and wish for the best. We were lucky it was still daylight, and we could see the 3 or 4 boats that drug anchor, labor under full motor power to move to a better spot in the bay and re-anchor. Ruth and I were pleasantly amazed that our anchor held. You stand there and see your heavy anchor chain stretch out full and taught. It was over in about an hour (Ruth says 1 1/2 hrs), followed by calm and cooler conditions. After that demonstration of anchor power, we slept well feeling very secure.

Sailed out west the next day into the open sea, a bit different than sailing in protected water. Wind to 22 knots and big seas. Rounded the north west portion of the island and past the 4 star hotel complexes and into "Hole in the Wall". This is a spectacular area! You approach a narrow opening in the jungle clad cliffs and are in a river with dense jungle on all sides. We anchored in a narrow section of the river, where we met Bob and Lioni on S/V - Island Fling. We last saw Bob and "Island Fling" in Guatemala in 2003! He has since gone around the world! Quite an accomplishment. He can still put away the Gin and Tonic, almost as well as me. We spent two evenings reminiscing and had a great reunion. The fish farm restaurant is something to see. You order fish & they go over to the big nets supported by empty barrels, take out a fish, put it in the frying pan and away you go.

The next day, we got our 2nd squall at anchor - only lasted 30 min. and reached 28 knots.- piece of cake. Visited the Sea Eagles - Ruth counted 12 eagles, diving down and picking up fish form the surface. You can see them pick up the fish with their talons, and while airborne, stuff the fish in their beaks- gone! Very, very peaceful in the jungle, except for the high speed tourist boats during the day.

Day 6 - we sailed back to the Langkawi Marina in plenty of wind, not always going our way, where Marvin backed into our berth and tore the swim ladder off the stern. We were lucky - it could have been serious damage. We had a 17 knot crosswind, and I miscalculated! Shit Happens!!!! Not happy and tough on the ego! The wind got up to 22 knots and we were having our hands full out there. There were so many small similar islands that navigation was difficult while sailing at warp speed in some very shallow waters. All in all, Ruth says we survived and will get our skills back as we go, If we live that long!

The view from the shower in the starboard hull