Longs Peak (Spring)

The trip report on this page represents the 22nd time I have been to the summit of Longs Peak.

I can see Longs Peak from my living room window, and one of my favorite ways to spend a day is an adventure to the summit. I have put together a "Longs Peak Page" summarizing the routes I have done on Longs Peak. Check it out by clicking the link above.

Category: Colorado (RMNP)Summit Elev: 14,259 ftRock Type: Granite
Date: April 21, 2024 (Sun)Trip Report #: 687Partner: solo

Route: The Trough (3rd, moderate snow, spring)

A fun spring solo ascent. Just under 10 hours car to car.

Intro

The Trough is a familiar part of the Keyhole Route. However, this very long gully actually begins from Glacier Gorge, and curves up and right beneath the west face of Longs Peak for about 2000 vertical feet to a high notch on the southwest ridge. The Trough holds snow for most of its length until late summer, and is completely snow-filled in winter and spring. It is non-technical (although in the spring it can have a short ice step near the base). From Glacier Gorge Trailhead, an ascent of Longs Peak via the Trough is almost a 15-mile day with about 5000 feet of elevation gain and loss.

At this point I had climbed several routes to the summit of Longs, but I had not yet climbed Longs via The Trough starting from Glacier Gorge. This was a route I defintely wanted to do when The Trough was snow-filled. So I snatched this sunny and calmish spring Sunday, when snow conditions were super stable, to do so. 

My car to car time was just under 10 hours, which seemed pretty good considering that the entire 2000-foot vertical length of the Trough was knee-deep snow. I wore crampons the entire route and I brought two axes, but only ended up using one.

Below are some photos from my day out. Another spring Longs Peak ascent and a new route (for me)!

Route OverlayS

Summer* conditions

* This was the conditions on a summer day in July 2022. The Trough was completely snow-filled when I climbed it in the spring.

Summer*,** conditions

* conditions in summer can vary quite a bit, from bone dry to wet to icy

** the conditions I had during my climb were spring conditions....much snowier, colder, and more technical than in the summer

Time Stats

Photos

Approach

2nd

Start at Glacier Gorge Trailhead. Hike the trail to Black Lake, and then head east up into Upper Glacier Gorge. The Trough is the obvious gully descending from Longs Peak into Glacier Gorge.

Morning sun on McHenrys and Arrowhead. Sunrise was at 6:14 am.
The Trough.
I love these electric hand warmers.

The Trough

Moderate snow and a possible ice step (in spring)

Climb up the long gully. Join the Keyhole Route around 13,300 feet. In the spring, there can be an icy step entering the Trough.

Entrance to The Trough.
Entrance to The Trough. Taken after the climb, in the midday sun.
The ice step just after the entrance to The Tough. This part was fun. I had one axe and crampons. Taken after the climb, in the midday sun.
Looking up The Trough above the ice step. Two thousand vertical feet of knee deep snow = a good workout.
Looking down as I ascended The Trough.
Looking down as I ascended The Trough.
Looking down as I ascended The Trough.
I had just gotten myself a Garmin watch with mapping capability (normally $800 but I found it used on eBay!). The "Longs Peak Trail" is the Keyhole Route. I had almost interesected it as this point.
A trail maker from the Keyhole Route. Looking up the upper Trough.

The Narrows (on Keyhole Route)

3rd

The Narrows is a slender shelf located at the top of The Trough. In the summer you scramble across on broken ledges, then around a rib to the base of The Homestretch. In the spring ascent in this trip report, it was snow. The snow was in great condition and I felt totally safe without a rope, but definitely don't slip here.

Another Keyhole Route marker, at the start of The Narrows.
The Narrows.
The first part of The Narrows (looking back).
The snow was in great shape, so I booted across.
View. Pagoda, Chiefs Head, and more.
The rock above The Narrows. There are some fun mid-5th summer routes on this.
Rime.
Rime.

The Homestretch (on Keyhole Route)

3rd

The Homestretch is a steep ramp on the south face of Longs. It leads to the summit. In the summer, it can be a bit slick or icy. In the spring ascent in this trip report, I booted up through deep but stable snow. 

The Homestretch.
The final snow slope of The Homestretch to the top.

Top!

The top of Longs Peak is 14,259 feet. The highest summit in RMNP. Enjoy the view! I had the summit to myself.

On top!
Summit view. A bluebird day!

Descent 

Reverse the route. The Trough goes so much quicker on the way down!

Looking down The Homestretch from the summit.
The Trough went quickly on the way down. I enjoyed at least 1000 feet of glissading (the snow was deep enough that I had to push myself along - no careening down the slope this time.
A view back up at The Trough. You can see my tracks.
Spearhead. I've climbed lots of great routes on this chunk of granite in the summer.
A view back of Longs Peak as I hiked out.
McHenrys and Arrowhead and Black Lake below.
Glacier Gorge as seen from Mills Lake. Longs Peak on the left. I had been on top just a few hours before!
Glacier Gorge parking lot.
When I got home Newt was sacked out on the couch. Looks like he had a big day too.

previous and next adventures