Longs Peak

The trip report on this page represents the 14th time I have been to the summit of Longs Peak.

I can see Longs Peak from my living room window, and one of my favorite ways to spend a day is an adventure to the summit. I have put together a "Longs Peak Page" summarizing the routes I have done on Longs Peak. Check it out by clicking the link above.

Other routes I've climbed on Longs Peak: The Beaver (5.5) + Clark's Arrow (3rd) + Gorrell's Traverse (5.4) • Keyhole Ridge (5.5-5.6) • Keyhole Route (~14.5 miles, 5100 ft gain, 3rd, summer) • Keyhole Route (~14.5 miles, 5100 ft gain, early spring ascent) • Kiener's (4th) • Cables Route on North Face (summer, 5.4) • Cables Route on North Face (winter & spring ascents, M2) • Cables Route on North Face (downclimb, 5.4) • The Loft + Clark's Arrow (3rd, mod snow, spring) • The Trough (3rd, mod snow, spring) • The Diamond (multiple routes, 5.10a-5.12a) • East side Keyboard to Upper Keyhole (3rd) via "A Walk in the Park" Traverse (aka "The Great Wheel") (~15 miles, rock up to 5.4, 13 hours car to car) • East side Keyboard to Upper Keyhole (3rd) via Estes Skyline High Route (~50 miles, rock up to 5.4, 3.5 days)

Category: Colorado (RMNP)Summit Elev: 14,259 ftRock Type: Granite
Date: July 21, 2022 (Thu)Trip Report #: 560Partner: solo

Route up: Keyhole Ridge (5.5-5.6)

Route down: Keyhole Route (3rd)

A fun fitness morning solo lap of Longs.

Intro

Keyhole Ridge follows the spectacular and exposed northwest ridge of Longs Peak from the Keyhole to the summit. With about 1500 feet of 4th-low 5th climbing on perfect granite, the route makes a great technical summit route that is a good alternative to the standard 3rd class Keyhole Route (which I have done a couple of times as of this trip report). The route is usually done in five to seven roped pitches, or even soloed, depending on conditions and experience.

I am not generally in the habit of soloing 5th class, especially without a partner. But I suspected that this route—where the 5th class sections are moderate, short, and on solid rock—would be within my comfort zone. So I decided to check it out, with a backup plan to do the 3rd class Keyhole Route if I didn't like the looks of the 5th class soloing. I brought a pair of climbing shoes to make the 5th class scrambling feel more secure. I am glad I went for it, as I found the climbing to be enjoyable and super secure on great rock. And, admittedly, there is something cerebral about soloing, where mistakes just aren't allowed. It was a fun way to get to the summit of RMNP's highest peak. I'd do it again (and probably will). I descended via the Keyhole Route. The entire adventure took about 6.5 hours car-to-car.

The following page gives an overlay and photos from my morning adventure. Enjoy.

Route OverlayS

Time Stats

Longs Peak Trailhead: 3:54 am
The Keyhole (start of route): 6:26 am
Summit: 7:38-7:42 am
Trailhead (decent via Keyhole Route): 10:28 am
TOTALS: 3:44 up, 2:46 down (6.5 hours)

Photos

Approach

2nd-3rd

Hike 6-7 miles from the Longs Peak trailhead to the Keyhole, which is where the popular Keyhole Route (3rd) begins.

Sunrise: 5:42 am.

Morning alpenglow on Longs Peak as seen from the lower Boulderfield.

Boulderfield area.

Perfect day for climbing on The Diamond....

Boulderfield, approaching The Keyhole.

The Keyhole. The Keyhole Ridge route cuts left on a ramp just below the Keyhole.

Keyhole to False Keyhole

4th

From the Keyhole, scramble left for 600 feet on an exposed rising ramp to the False Keyhole, a wide notch in the ridge.

A view up at the ramp that starts the Keyhole Ridge route.

The ramp.

False Keyhole to Upper Notch

5.4

Climb the easy ridge above the False Keyhole to a gendarme with steeper rock. Here you have two options: (1) Stay on the left and climb up, head left on a ramp, climb straight up to the top of the gendarme and the ridge crest (5.4), and descend 10 feet down the west side of the ridge to a ridge system; or (2) Wrap right around the ridge and find a ramp system, some 5.4 required but seems less exposed. From either option, scramble up the ledge and then slabs to the base of the next steep ridge section and the last notch in the ridge. (I chose Option 2 after scoping out Option 1 and deciding the exposed 5.4 moves were a bit too consequential for soloing. Option 2 seemed easier overall.)

The steeper rock.

This section felt 5.4.

I wore climbing shoes.

A fist crack in the upper ridge. I don't think the 5.4 way goes this way!

I decided to traverse around the gendarme on the right. Past where this photo was taken, nothing seemed harder than 4th class.

Another photo taken while traversing around the right side of the gendarme.

Looking back at the gendarme. I ended up traversing in the shady section. Nothing seemed harder than 4th class here.

Upper Buttress

5.5 or 5.6

Scramble up an easy ramp on the left side of the ridge to the base of a steep buttress. For a harder pitch, climb an obvious crack (5.6) straight up. Or continue up the narrowing ramp until it's possible to climb directly up excellent granite (5.5) to the ridge crest. (I chose the 5.5 option.) The climbing gets easier as you near the crest. Scramble (some 4th) left along the crest to the upper ridge.

Approaching the upper buttress.

This is the 5.5 section. Solid rock and positive holds made this feel fine for soloing.

A piton.

Looking down while soloing the 5.5 section. Definitely no room for error here, but the rock was solid, the feet were great, and the holds were positive.

A 4th class section above the 5.5.

Looking back at the upper ridge above the 5.5 section.

Upper Ridge

3rd

Follow the long, gently rising northwest ridge to the summit. This ridge is quite fun and airy.

Looking at the 3rd class upper ridge.

Good rock and exposure on the 3rd class upper ridge.

Top!

The top of Longs Peak is 14,259 feet. The highest summit in RMNP. Enjoy the view! And the crowds.

A bluebird morning on the summit. There were some people who had done the Keyhole Route already on the summit when I arrived.

On top!

Descent via Keyhole Route

One option is to scramble down the Keyhole Route. Another is to descend the Cables Route / North Face, which entails downclimbing 5.4 or making two rappels off eye-bolts. I descended the Keyhole Route.

(I have more photos of this descent on my Keyhole Route trip report from June 2022, when I descended via the Keyhole Route.)