Arrowhead

Other routes I've climbed on Arrowhead: 
Airhead (5.11d, 5p)    •    Arrowplane (5.11a, 6p)   •    Artemis (5.9+, 4p)     •    Bequeathed (5.10d, 6p)     •    Full Metal Jacket (5.10c, 3p)   •    Godfather, The (5.11b, 5p)   •    Goldfinger (5.11d, 3p)   •    Raindance (5.9, 6p)   •    Refugium (5.10a, 5p)   •    Ripsaw (5.7-5.9, 4-8p)   •    Shoshone (5.10a, 4p)     •    Warhead (5.10a, 5p)
Category: Colorado (RMNP)Summit Elev: 12,660 ftRock Type: Granite
Date: July 9, 2022 (Sat)Trip Report #: 555Partner: Nate Arganbright

Route: Refugium (5.10a, 5p)

The first of two climbs on a two-night, two-day weekend in the spectacular Upper Glacier Gorge.

Intro

Summer was in full swing, with a splitter forecast and temperatures in the mid-80's in Estes Park and mid-90's in Boulder. So it was time to head to the alpine for the weekend. I secured a bivy permit for Upper Glacier Gorge (need to be climbing a route that is at least four pitches to qualify for a bivy permit), and Nate and I bivied up there for two nights (Friday and Saturday nights) at our favorite bivy location below The Spearhead. On Saturday we climbed Refugium (5.10a, 5p) on Arrowhead and on Sunday we climbed East Prow (5.9+/10b, 6p) on The Spearhead. We also enjoyed a couple of afternoons hanging out in this spectacular area. The sun was out, the wildflowers were peaking, and the elk were grazing.

This page gives a trip report for our climb of Refugium on Arrowhead. This route ascends the prow of the buttress. We had all of Arrowhead to ourselves for the day. 

The following page gives an overlay and pitch-by-pitch photos of the climb, and below that a photo smorgasbord from our weekend of hanging out in Upper Glacier Gorge. Enjoy!

Time Stats

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd-3rd

Somehow get to the base of Arrowhead. If Arrowhead is the only objective, then it makes sense to ascent the steep hillside right of Black Lake. However, we were bivied below The Spearhead, so we made a pleasant traverse across the Upper Glacier Gorge basin into McHenrys basin and to the base of Arrowhead. Follow the talus to the high point at the bottom of the South Couloir. Begin 50 feet left of the chimney for the South Couloir.

Approaching Arrowhead from our bivy below The Spearhead. It took 1 hour to get from our bivy to the base of the route. McHenrys Peak and Arrowhead in the distance.
Getting closer to Arrowhead.
A geyser of water. There was a lot of water in McHenrys basin from early summer snowmelt.

Pitch 1

5.7, 250'

Follow cracks and ledges up to the South Ramp. This involves some simulclimbing, or can be broken into two pitches.

Looking up the start of Pitch 1.
The second half of Pitch 1. We broke this pitch into two pitches. We had climbed it as one long pitch (with some simuclimbing) when we climbed Raindance the previous year.

Pitch 2

5.7, 170'

Scramble up cracks and ledges to the base of a conspicuous right-facing dihedral that forms the right edge of a 100-foot pillar to belay.

Nate starting up Pitch 2.
Midway up Pitch 2.

Pitch 3

5.8, 100'

Jam cracks on the face of the pillar and belay at its top.

The cracks on Pitch 3.
A belay with a view at the top of Pitch 3. That is Black Lake far below. Spearhead (and our bivy) is in the distance.

Pitch 4

5.8, 80'

Climb along a flake, then work up and left to belay at the left side of a huge block. We combined the 5.10a flake (crux) at the start of Pitch 5 into this pitch.

Nate on the flake at the start of Pitch 4.
The 5.10a crux of the route. Really good climbing. The guidebook description put this as the start of Pitch 5, but Nate linked this into the end of Pitch 4. Either way, it will probably generate some rope drag.
Nate at the belay at the top of Pitch 4 at the base of the dihedral of Pitch 5.

Pitch 5

5.10a, 165'

Lieback along the right edge of a large flake (crux) and go left at its top into a dihedral. Follow the dihedral to the top of the wall. Rope drag may be bad if you place too much gear on the crux lieback. The crux lieback can be broken into its own short pitch or linked into the end of Pitch 4 as we did.

The 5.10a crux of the route. Really good climbing. The guidebook description put this as the start of Pitch 5, but Nate linked this into the end of Pitch 4. Either way, it will probably generate some rope drag.
The dihedral of Pitch 5.
Midway up Pitch 5. Some King's crown flowers en route.
Nate topping out. Almost all routes on Arrowhead top out on a vertical section.

Top

12,660 ft

The route ends west (climbers' left) of the summit. Scramble to the summit if you want. It's worth it if you've not been there.

The belay at the top of Pitch 5. I figured my anchor block was about 0.5 cubic meters, which would weigh approximately 1350 kg (3000 lb). Furthermore, there is friction. The summit of Arrowhead is on the right in the photo.

Descent

Rappel

Either take the rap route or scramble down the South Ramp (4th). We opted for the rappel. Scramble down to the low point between Arrowhead and McHenry's Peak. Locate the first rap station (under a big boulder). There are two raps and some 4th-low 5th class downclimbing. A single 70 works just fine. Scramble back to the base of the route (not too far from base of rappels). Hike out the way you came.

Descending the summit ridge to the rappel route.
The rappel route location.
Looking down the first rappel.
Traversing across McHenrys basin on the hike back to our bivy at the base of The Spearhead. There is still a fair bit of snow.

other photos

We had secured a bivy permit for Upper Glacier Gorge (need to be climbing a route that is at least four pitches to qualify for a bivy permit), and we bivied up there for two nights (Friday and Saturday nights) at our favorite bivy location below The Spearhead. What a marvelous place to hang out for the weekend!

Our bivy

Upper Glacier Gorge has some of the best bivy locations in RMNP. We stayed at one of our favorites, which we have stayed at a few times before. It is sheltered enough to keep one dry in a storm and has a nice flat area for sleeping.

Our bivy location underneath a boulder. Keybaord of the Winds above.
Another photo of our bivy.
Another photo of our bivy.
Magical evening light on the Keyboard of the Winds.
Inside the bivy.
Inside the bivy.
It's nice to keep warm.
Nate's dinner: raman with rehydrated vegetables and pulled pork, topped with sesame sticks and hot sauce.
My dinner: oatmeal. Hey, I am probably weird, but I just really enjoy a big warm bowl of oatmeal in the backcountry.
On my parents' recent visit to see me in Colorado, my mom had given Nate a few Canadian chocolate bars. This was his favorite so far. We agreed it tastes a lot like chocolate-covered raisins. Thanks mom/Sue!
A sunny afternoon at our bivy after a climb. McHenrys and Arrowhead in the distance.
A sunny afternoon at our bivy after a climb. Spearhead above.
I worked a nonogram. I think it is a bird.

Nate's Bouldering Circuit

There are some sizable boulders in the area below The Spearhead. Nate did some bouldering while I took photos.

This was on the biggest boulder near camp. Keyboard of the Winds above.
This was on the biggest boulder near camp.
The other side of the big boulder.
A smaller boulder with featured rock. The Spearhead towers above.
Topping out. The Spearhead towers above.
I found this nice fists to offwidth splitter and told Nate about it.
Climbing the splitter.
Nate climbing the splitter.
A short but powerful overhanging hand to fist crack. This is the other side of the splitter.
Cruising up the arete on the splitter boulder. Keyboard of the Winds above.
Topping out in the evening light. The Spearhead behind.

Flora

The wildflowers were out.

Bracken (ferns). 
Daisy or Asters.
King's crown lining the stream. This was our water source near our bivy.
King's crown.
Primrose.
Primrose.
Elephant's Head.
Not sure what these pretty white flowers are.
Alpine columbine. 

Elk

The Upper Glacier Gorge area often has elk in the summer. We spotted several elk in the area.

A herd of elk (with several young'uns) at the shore of Black Lake.
A herd of elk in Upper Glacier Gorge (this photo was taken from our bivy).
The elk walked right by our bivy. 
This elk seemed more curious than concerned by our presence.
A pair of male elk. The rack on the one on the left is huge - must be exhausting to hold its head up!

Scenery

Upper Glacier Gorge is a picturesque place.

Evening view from our bivy.
Evening alpenglow on the Keyboard of the Winds.
Evening alpenglow on the Keyboard of the Winds.
Green Lake, about 15 minute hike above our bivy. Notice the lone elk hanging out on the lakeshore.
View out of Glacier Gorge.
A cool cloud.
More cool clouds. We had a bit of cloud buildup on our first evening, but for the most part the weekend was splitter sunny weather.
Frozen Lake, on the west side of The Spearhead.

Hiking

It's a pleasant hike from Bear Lake / Glacier Gorge Trailhead to Upper Glacier Gorge. 

A nice gneiss boulder alongside the trail above Mills Lake. This is Nate's favorite rock.
A nice boardwalk through a marshy area just above Mills Lake.
Arriving in Upper Glacier Gorge on Friday evening, in search of a bivy site.
Hiking out on Sunday afternoon. McHenrys Peak and Arrowhead in the distance. Photo by Nate.
Hiking out on Sunday afternoon. Black Lake below. Nate and I both have Hyperlite packs, and love 'em.
I always enjoy this section of trail, which is riddled with polished roots.
A fallen tree. The root structure seems to be quite shallow in the area above Mills Lake, likely because it is just a thin layer of soil on granite bedrock.
A cool root. Photo by Nate.

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