Arrowhead

Other routes I've climbed on Arrowhead: 
Airhead (5.11d, 5p)    •    Arrowplane (5.11a, 6p)   •    Artemis (5.9+, 4p)    •    Bequeathed (5.10d, 6p)   •    Full Metal Jacket (5.10c, 3p)   •    Godfather, The (5.11b, 5p)   •    Goldfinger (5.11d, 3p)   •    Raindance (5.9, 6p)   •    Refugium (5.10a, 5p)   •    Ripsaw (5.7-5.9, 4-8p)   •    Shoshone (5.10a, 4p)     •    Warhead (5.10a, 5p)
Category: Colorado (RMNP)Summit Elev: 12,660 ftRock Type: Granite
Date: September 3, 2022 (Sat)Trip Report #: 577Partner: Nate Arganbright

Route: Bequeathed (5.10d, 6p)

Another fun route up the steep, solid, and sunny granite on the south face of Arrowhead.

Intro

After a rather wet summer, September had arrived with a splitter forecast—warmer and sunnier than it had been for weeks. For Labor Day weekend, Nate and I snatched this late-season opportunity to spend a few days in the alpine. I secured a bivy permit for Upper Glacier Gorge (need to be climbing a route that is at least four pitches to qualify for a bivy permit), and Nate and I bivied up there for three nights (Friday, Saturday, and Sunday nights) below The Spearhead. (As a sidenote, after this Labor Day weekend trip, I realized that Nate and I had spent a total of 20 nights bivying in RMNP in Summer 2022.) Nate and I climbed three routes: Bequeathed (5.10d, 6p) on Arrowhead, The Kingfisher (5.11, 7p) on The Spearhead, and The Barb (5.10b, 10p) on The Spearhead. We also enjoyed a couple of sunny afternoons hanging out in this spectacular area.  

This page gives a trip report for Bequeathed on Arrowhead, the first of three climbs during our Labor Day weekend in Upper Glacier Gorge. At this point, Nate and I had climbed most of the routes on the south face of Arrowhead. They had all been worthy adventures. We had not yet climbed Bequeathed, a 6-pitch route which ascends the indistinct prow to the right of Warhead; the crux is a 10d flaring corner. Above the initial difficulties lies surprisingly excellent, moderate crack climbing on stellar rock. This route was named in honor of Andy Donson who told first ascentionists Don Bushey and Patrick Clark about the line and suggested they "have a go". (Andy "bequeathed" the route to Don and Patrick.)  Interestingly, Don Bushey posted this route on mountainproject in 2001 shortly after their first ascent, and there are no reports of anyone climbing this route since. So—even though it seems unlikely—it is possible that Nate and I made the second ascent of this route, just over 20 years after it was put up.

As usual, despite the sunny high-quality alpine granite of Arrowhead, we had the entire wall to ourselves. Another worthy route on Arrowhead! 

The following page gives an overlay and pitch-by-pitch photos of Bequeathed, and below that a photo smorgasbord from our three-day, three-night Labor Day weekend hanging out in Upper Glacier Gorge. Enjoy!

Time Stats

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd-4th

Hike the Glacier Gorge Trail to Black Lake. Just as you reach Black Lake, head rightward, crossing the outlet and picking up a path through the brush to a talus field on the slope to the west of the lake. Follow a faint path up the right side of the talus field, and then head left (south) over grassy slopes and ramps, wrapping around until beneath the south face of Arrowhead. Here you can see the route. Begin from a large block in the highest talus, just around right of Warhead.

Beginning the approach to Arrowhead from our bivy below The Spearhead. The approach took about 1 hour.
Approaching Arrowhead. All in the sun now.
The route ascends this indistinct buttress.

Pitch 1

5.7 R, ~200'

Beta from first ascensionists, posted on mountainproject: 

Begin on the right margin of the apron and trend left crossing several black water streaks—sometimes wet (7s). Gain an obvious, arching overlap on the slab and continue to the base of the steep, open book.

This photo was taken at the start of Pitch 1. The general idea is to cross the slab and aim for the obvious corner of Pitch 2.
A view back of the initial traverse on Pitch 1. Not much gear but pretty easy slabbing.
The second half of Pitch 1. Gear is not everywhere and it is a bit tricky to find, but the climbing is 5.7ish (but a bit of wetness in spots made it feel a bit more insecure).
Nate nearing the top of Pitch 1.

Pitch 2

5.10d, ~100'

Beta from first ascensionists, posted on mountainproject: 

Execute wild stemming moves with flared thin fingers (10d). Plug in some good gear and continue stemming (10b) until the angle eases and an impasse is reached. Charge up the improbable and steep headwall above (8+s) and belay. A small TCU would be helpful for the initial moves off the ledge.

The crux 10d corner on Pitch 2. This photo was taken from the start of the route.
Looking up the crux 10d corner. I found it quite manageable to just rand smear and layback a bit.
An old hex placement above the corner. Perhaps from the first ascent in 2001.
The belay on the ramp at the top of Pitch 2.

Pitch 3

5.8, ~100'

Beta from first ascensionists, posted on mountainproject: 

Trend left on a ramp system and reach a vertical fist crack. Jam the crack (8) and belay beneath the left of two left-facing dihedrals.

Looking up Pitch 3.
The fist crack on Pitch 3.

Pitch 4

5.8, ~200'

Beta from first ascensionists, posted on mountainproject: 

A long pitch. Climb the pleasant dihedral (7) to a clean slab split by a hand and fist crack. Jam the crack for about 30 ft. (8). Where the corner changes aspect, continue up the right-facing dihedral (8). Stretch the rope to a belay in a broken area. 

I think the dihedral mentioned in the pitch description is the second one from the right. Thinking I was to climb the leftmost dihedral (instead of the "left of two left-facing dihedrals") I ended up climbing the dihedral even further left, but this was good climbing as well and was easily linked into the second half of Pitch 4.
Second half of Pitch 4.

Pitch 5

5.9+, ~150'

Beta from first ascensionists, posted on mountainproject: 

Aim up toward the notch on the left skyline and enter a steep handcrack via a bulge (9+). Jam the crack (9) with awesome exposure and belay on a comfortable ledge.

Looking up Pitch 5. Start by climbing to the notch in the left skyline.
The steep handcrack.
Nate nearing the top of Pitch 5.
I had a mini feast of meat sticks as I belayed.

Pitch 6

5.9, ~150'

Beta from first ascensionists, posted on mountainproject: 

Enter the V-slot above the belay, sling a pillar, and escape left via a face traverse (8) to reach a right-facing dihedral. Perfect fingers (9) leads to a roof. Turn the roof on the right (9), and follow easier terrain to the top.

Nate starting off Pitch 6.
The 5.9 roof on Pitch 6. This is fun climbing on great rock.
Nearing the end of the pitch.

Top

12,660 ft

The route ends west (climbers' left) of the summit. Scramble to the summit if you want. It's worth it.

Nate at the top of the route.
Getting ready to begin the descent.

Descent

Two Rappels + Scrambling

Either take the rap route or scramble down the South Ramp (4th). 

We opted for the rappel, which we had done several times before. Scramble down to the low point between Arrowhead and McHenry's Peak. Locate the first rap station (under a big boulder). There are two raps and some 4th-low 5th class downclimbing. A single 70 works just fine. Scramble back to the base of the route (not too far from base of rappels). Hike out the way you came.

Descending the summit ridge towards the rappel anchor at the notch.
A chickenhead on the ridge. It looks like a turtle of sorts enjoying the view of Longs Peak in the distance.
Granite slabs in McHenrys Basin heading back towards The Spearhead.
Frozen Lake on the west side of The Spearhead. It felt almost warm enough to jump in.

other photos

It was Labor Day weekend and the forecast was for splitter weather, so Nate and I snatched the opportunity to spend three days and three nights in the spectacular Upper Glacier Gorge. We had secured a bivy permit for Upper Glacier Gorge (need to be climbing a route that is at least 4 pitches to qualify for a bivy permit), and we bivied up there for three nights (Friday, Saturday, and Sunday nights) below The Spearhead. What a spectacular place to hang out for the long weekend.

Our bivy

Upper Glacier Gorge has some of the best bivy locations in RMNP. We stayed at what I decided to call the "Under the Dome" bivy, which is a roomy cavern under a giant boulder. This is one of the coolest spots to bivy in the area, but it is usually filled with snow or ice until late in the summer. Earlier in the summer, Nate and I had made a note to try to return to Glacier Gorge in the late summer and stay at this bivy once the snow inside had melted. We were glad we got the opportunity to do so!

Our bivy was underneath this giant boulder. Longs Peak and the Keyboard of the Winds and Pagoda are above.
A view under the boulder. You can stand up in here.
A view from under the boulder.
Evening at the bivy. Longs Peak and the Keyboard of the Winds and Pagoda are above.
Enjoying late afternoon sun at the bivy.
Nate enjoying late afternoon sun at the bivy.
Reading in the last rays of afternoon sun.
Hanging our food when we leave to go climbing. Marmots and pika are the main concern.
We were back at camp by around 2pm each day. I worked a nonogram one afternoon.
After the nonogram, I read a bit. 1984 is a kind of depressing book.
We collected water at a tarn a few hundred feet from camp. I did not treat my water, as I am on a yet-unsuccessful-four-year quest to discover Giardia in RMNP.
Trash bag comparison. I'm too embarrassed to say which one is mine.Photo by Nate.
Nate's dinner. Some sort of freeze-dried spicy chicken with cheese on top. He decided he probably wouldn't have this one again. He thought that the next two nights (biscuits and gravy, chicken and dumplings) were much better.Photo by Nate.
Nate's breakfast: maple and brown sugar cream of wheat, walnuts, and bacon. A new favorite!
My standard dinner: cinnamon roll flavored oatmeal. I will never grow tired of oatmeal.Photo by Nate.
My mom had sent us some Canadian chocolates. Nate really liked this one (peanuts and toffee). Fortunately for Nate, I preferred the pure chocolate bar instead, so he got the entire peanut brittle bar.

Scenery

Upper Glacier Gorge is a picturesque place.

The last rays of the sun as it sank over the ridge. Sun left our bivy at around 6pm. Official sunset was around 7:30pm.
Evening light on The Spearhead.
A beautiful evening in Upper Glacier Gorge.
Colorful clouds. I think these are Mammatus clouds.
Mammatus clouds above Longs Peak.
Mammatus clouds above Longs Peak and the Keyboard of the Winds.

Flora and fauna

Early September is usually when the mountains start to display the transition between summer and fall. We enjoyed late-summer wildflowers and early fall colors.

Water droplets on leaf.Photo by Nate.
Water droplets on leaf. This was my photo but idea credit goes to Nate.
I think these are King's Crown.Photo by Nate.
I think these are Queen's Crown.
Elephant's Head. These flowers were out in July, so I was surprised to still see them in early September.
Star gentian.
Harebell.
Some sort of seed.
A cute fungus.
Another fungus.
And another.
Some yellow needles. In the North Cascades, larch trees turn brilliant yellow each fall, but I think in this case it just means the tree branch is dying.
Fall colors underfoot.
Fall colors underfoot.
Fall colors.
Fall colors.Photo by Nate.
Elk in Upper Glacier Gorge. We only spotted these three. Soon they will all be moving to lower elevation for the fall and winter.
A sizable vertebrae. Maybe from an elk?Photo by Nate.
Tree art. This is one of my favorite photos from the trip.Photo by Nate.
More tree art.Photo by Nate.
A beautiful root wad.Photo by Nate.

Rocks

I've always been fascinated by rocks (my undergraduate degree is in geology, in fact). Nate took several rock photos too. 

Cool rock fractures.
A rock puzzle.Photo by Nate.
An interesting dark spot on the granite slabs in Upper Glacier Gorge. The dark spots may be xenoliths that were partially melted and absorbed by the magma of the surrounding granite pluton.Photo by Nate.
Another interesting dark spot on the granite slabs in Upper Glacier Gorge. The dark spots may be xenoliths that were partially melted and absorbed by the magma of the surrounding granite pluton.Photo by Nate.
A nice chunk of quartz near our bivy.
A fracture/joint perhaps.Photo by Nate.
Nice gneiss.Photo by Nate.

Hiking

It's a pleasant hike from Bear Lake / Glacier Gorge Trailhead to Upper Glacier Gorge. 

Beginning the hike on Friday afternoon from the Glacier Gorge Trailhead. Gotta hoof this 40 lb pack about 5 miles and 3000 feet uphill! (In reality, the pack is feeling pretty non-eventful by this point in the season, after several weekends bivying in the mountains.)Photo by Nate.
Leaving the Glacier Gorge Trailhead.
Arriving in Upper Glacier Gorge a couple of hours later. Hiking time from the Glacier Gorge Trailhead to our bivy in Upper Glacier Gorge was about 2.5 hours.Photo by Nate.
Hiking out after a glorious weekend. I like this section of trail—easy travel on granite slabs unearthed from the thin soil cover. There are several downed trees on this section of the hike due to the shallow soil.Photo by Nate.
A bridge crossing.Photo by Nate.
My standard timestamp photo when we arrived back at the Glacier Gorge Trailhead on Monday afternoon.

previous and next adventures