Displaying Plants in the Home
One of the major problems of displaying plants in the home is that not much consideration has been given to the needs of plants when designing and building the home.
It is a challenge to grow plants in the home, however many gardeners are very successful at growing quality plants in the home environment. The advantages are many in respect to growing plants in the home, and include the following:
· Plants release oxygen.
· Plants soften the appearance of formal interior design.
· Plants can assist in the sick building syndrome.
· It is known that plants can absorb/filter gases released by the fabric of the house.
So what are the problems?
· Low light or even very bright light if on the south side. Artificial light is often very high in red or blue wavelength, which gives erratic growth of plants.
· Modern heating systems are so efficient these days (and quite rightly so), however the temperature in the home often is quite low at night and this difference in temperature from the day and night can cause hormonal problems resulting in poor flowering or leaf drop.
· Draughts are a problem. We get cold if the door is left open in the winter period, it can be life or death for the plant.
· It is difficult to control pests and diseases, spraying chemicals in the home is very much not recommended.
· Sadly, neglect is a common problem. Do we remember to water and feed the plant in the same way we would do if they were in a greenhouse?
However, please do not give up, we all love plants and they add so much more to the ambience of the home. It is worth the challenge of growing them in the challenging environment of the home.
Important Vegetable Notes
· Three Course Rotation
The rotation of vegetables was primarily designed to reduce pest and disease problems and to prevent damage to soil structure. It is also useful to prevent the reduction of nutrients for one type of crop growing in the same ground year after year.
As the vegetable garden has become smaller in recent years, the advantage of rotation to avoid pest and diseases has diminished slightly. It is however still a useful exercise especially with the protection of soil structure and preventing nutrient reduction.
The simple three course vegetable rotation is as follows:
Plot 1
Plot 2
Plot 3
Year 1
Peas, Beans, Onions, Leeks, Shallots, Garlic, Lettuce, Spinach, Spinach Beet, Celery, Celeriac, Tomatoes.
Cabbages, Cauliflower, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Kale, Kohl Rabi, Chinese Cabbage, Swedes, Radishes, Turnips.
Potatoes, Carrots, Beetroot, Parsnips, Salsify, Scorzonera, Chicory.
Year 2
Cabbages, Cauliflower, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Kale, Kohl Rabi, Chinese Cabbage, Swedes, Radishes, Turnips.
Potatoes, Carrots, Beetroot, Parsnips, Salsify, Scorzonera, Chicory.
Peas, Beans, Onions, Leeks, Shallots, Garlic, Lettuce, Spinach, Spinach Beet, Celery, Celeriac, Tomatoes.
Year 3
Potatoes, Carrots, Beetroot, Parsnips, Salsify, Scorzonera, Chicory.
Peas, Beans, Onions, Leeks, Shallots, Garlic, Lettuce, Spinach, Spinach Beet, Celery, Celeriac, Tomatoes.
Cabbages, Cauliflower, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Kale, Kohl Rabi, Chinese Cabbage, Swedes, Radishes, Turnips.
The concept is as follows:
· Root crops enjoy fertiliser application, but must not have applications of fresh manure or indeed lime.
· Brassicas must have a fertiliser application before planting and very importantly normally benefit from an application of lime to the soil.
· Legumes add Nitrogen to the soil.
· Four Course Rotation
The concept is similar but in this case Potatoes are treated separately and grown in their own plot.
· Direct Sowing or Planting
Direct sowing is used when the crop is maintained in the same position and simply thinned out after sowing. An example would be Carrots and Beetroot. Direct planting is when a crop is grown under glass/protection and planted in its final position once the Frost has disappeared. Examples are Peas and Beans.
· Successional Cropping
This is where a crop is sown at least on two different dates to ensure the crop is fresh and will grow over a long period of time. Two examples are Broad Beans which are sown in November and also February. A Lettuce crop can be sown three weeks apart from each other to achieve fresh crop over a long period of time.
· Catch Cropping
These are fast maturing crops which can be used between early and late crop vegetables. Examples include Radish, Finger Carrots and Spring Onions. It is also possible to use fast-growing Green manures such as Ryegrass.
· Intercropping
This is similar to catch cropping, it is used normally to grow one crop in between a very slow maturing crop. An example would be growing Spring Greens between Root Crops.
· ‘Cut and Come Again’
This is a crop which will regrow grow quickly once parts of the foliage are removed. Examples include Lettuce, Spinach and Celery.
Potatoes
Interesting Facts
It must be remembered that potatoes are half hardy and therefore can be damaged by frost and even cold easterly winds. The potato produces a crop by producing short rhizomes with stem tubers (potatoes) on the rhizomes.
It is common practice to use certified seed which are chitted especially for early production. The certified seed is actually selected small potatoes Stem Tubers) also known as seed potatoes. Chitted means that the buds on the seed potatoes have started to grow and therefore once planted will develop quickly.
It is important to remember that potatoes obtained from a supermarket have most likely to have been cold stored, this will cause bud dormancy and therefore these potatoes are not suitable for use as seed potatoes.
Potatoes are suitable for most soil types, the aggressive root system and rhizome production will help to open up the soil especially a virgin plot. The foliage cover is almost 100% and this will therefore help to prevent weed growth, as it prevents light reaching the soil.
Potatoes are divided into the following groups:
· First early varieties. Plant in late March. Spacing 30 cm apart for the potato and 60 cm between the rows. 12 cm deep. Harvest in mid-June.
· Second early varieties. Plant in mid-April. Spacing 38 cm apart for the potato and 60 cm between the rows. Harvest in mid-July
· Main crop varieties. Plant in late April. Spacing 38 cm apart for the potato and 60 cm between the rows. Harvest in August.
It is a good practice to earth up around the haulm (this is the vegetative growth above the ground) when the growth is about 20 cm high. This will assist the development of the stem tubers.
Do remember that potatoes enjoy an organic soil, so lots of organic matter should be added before planting. In addition a sunny position is best, never plant in the shade. Avoid chalky soil and certainly do not apply lime as this will encourage potato scab. If the soil is of low nutrition is important to add a general fertiliser.
Potato problems
· Potato Scab:
· Leaf Roll Virus:
· Potato Scab:
· Frost:
· Slugs:
· Wire Worm:
· Potato Cyst Eelworm:
Frost Damage
Which varieties to choose?
This is a most difficult question as it depends on personal preference, however the following are examples of very reliable varieties:
· ARRAN PILOT, PENTLAND JAVELIN. These are first early varieties.
· WILJA, GREAT SCOTT. These are second early varieties.
· KING EDWARD, MAJESTIC. These are main crop varieties.
The Pruning of Plants-Revision Notes
Introduction
This is a revision handout only, it is important for students to read carefully the handout released by Ray Broughton with the title ‘The Science of Pruning Plant Successfully '
The Pruning Groups
Plants Which Flower before June
These plants must have made the plant growth in the previous year in order to flower early in the next year. It is therefore important to prune the plant immediately after they have flowered, which is normally in May/early June.
Plant examples include:
· Philadelphus coronarius
· Forsythia x intermdia
· Berberis darwinii
· Weigela florida
Plants Which Flower from June Onwards
These plants if pruned very early in the season (early March) will have the opportunity to make growth which will produce flowers in mid to late summer ie from June onwards. It is therefore important to prune these plants very early in the season. If weather allows this could be as early as the first week of March. Clearly the actual date of pruning depends on how severe the winter is and if spring is progressing with warmer conditions.
Examples include:
· Rosa (bush Roses)
· Buddleja davidii
· Cornus alba
· Leycesteria formosa
Plants Which Do Not Require Seasonal Pruning As Part of an Annual Maintenance Program
These are plants which are only pruned as and when required. This could include removing branches which are blocking a path or a window of the house. Pruning for shape of the plant can be conducted normally after flowering, but once again the pruning is minimal and not based on a season maintenance program.
Examples include:
· Camellia spp
· Rhododendron spp
· Pieris spp
· Ceanothus spp
Rejuvenation Pruning
This is a severe method of pruning which is only used if the plant has overgrown its position and is not attractive in its present form. It is important to note that this method of pruning, which involves cutting down the whole plant down to about 15 cm from the ground; is only suitable for plants which have multiple stems arising from ground level. There is a high risk factor with this type of pruning which can be reduced by:
Ø Feeding the plant in the year before pruning.
Ø Ensuring the plant is not dry for at least six months after pruning.
Ø To complete this pruning in early April (Remember you must not disturb nesting birds).
It is also important to be aware that vigourous shoots will develop from the stumps. These vigourous shoots must be tipped (remove the boss bud) when the shoots are about 20 cm in length.
Examples include:
· Berberis spp
· Kerria spp
· Hydrangea spp
· Pyracantha spp
The Pruning of Hedges
The majority of hedges can be clipped between 22nd July to the 22nd August each year. The reason for these dates is that the sex hormone is masking the growth hormone owing to the high light levels in the Summer. The regrowth following this pruning will take at least six months which helps to keep the hedge in an attractive form.
It is important to appreciate that hard pruning of hedges (pruning into the hardwood) should not be attempted until April (but do remember you must complete a risk assessment to avoid disturbing any nesting birds, it is illegal to disturb nesting birds) or the preferred time of October. In this case the growth hormone masks the sex hormone as a result of the low light levels in the Spring and Autumn. This will result in new growth from older wood.
Examples include (for summer and spring/autumn pruning of hedges)
· Fagus sylvatica
· Taxus baccata
· Thuja plicata
· Prunus lusitanica
RJB Fact Sheet Number 1
The Control of Moss Using Chitted Grass Seed
Many lawns suffer from moss infestation. The moss problem in most cases is a result of inappropriate grass mixtures dominating the lawn.
Very often we consider wet conditions, shade or impacted soil as the main reasons why moss grows successfully in a lawn.
It is interesting to note however, that the reasons stated above are most unlikely to be the main reason that moss establishes in the lawn.
Consider the following facts……………..
The moss growing in the lawn is not a strong plant. It has no conventional root system and it needs to be protected from the elements – wind, sun and very low temperatures. This can be achieved by the moss
growing in between the coarse grasses in the lawn.
The coarse lawn grasses do not grow very well in harsh conditions ie heavy shade and very wet conditions. The result of this is many gaps in the lawn which will allow the moss and broadleaved weeds to establish.
Many lawns in the UK are dominated by two grass species……
Ø Lolium perenne – Perennial rye grass
Ø Poa pratenses - Smooth stalked meadow grass
These two grasses have excellent properties in respect to wear and durability, however they lack the density of cover and therefore can allow broadleaved weeds and moss to establish.
Two other lawn grasses can be added to the existing lawn which will improve the density of grass cover in the lawn. This will reduce the opportunity of broadleaved weeds and moss to establish.
The two grasses are normally associated with fine quality lawns. It is important to note that these will grow very successfully in most lawns.
The two grasses are………
Ø Agrostis tenuis - Brown top bent
Ø Festuca rubra - Fescue
One method of incorporating these two grasses is to chit (pre germinate) the grass and then apply to the lawn. An ideal time to do this is straight after scarification in early April or early September.
The advantages of using chitted grass seed are the fast establishment of the grass and in most cases birds will not eat the germinating seed.
It is very important to ensure that the moss and any broadleaved weeds are killed before scarification commences - the use of Iron sulphate to kill the moss and selective herbicides to kill the broadleaved weeds is recommended for consideration.
The method is as follows……….
Fill a 6 inch (15cm) pot with grass seed containing the Agrostis tenuis and Fescue rubra grass seed. Look for a good quality grass seed mixture, often sold as a luxury grass seed mixture.
Fill a good quality black bin liner up to three quarters with a compost that is suitable to be added to the surface of the lawn.
Empty the 6 inch pot of grass seed into the black bin liner three quarters filled with compost, which should be moist but not wet. Thoroughly mix the seed with the compost.
Seal the bag and leave in the garage for a period of six to eight days.
It is important to check the bag from five days onwards in order to check that germination has only just begun - no green shoots must be present.
The lawn should be scarified to coincide with the germination of the grass seed which is normally from five days after starting this process.
After scarification the compost containing the chitted grass seed can be very thinly spread over the lawn. As an estimate one bin liner will cover an area equal to 4 m by 4 m. When the grass seed commences germination the first root and shoot grows in a sheath which protects them from any physical damage when you apply the top dressing to the lawn.
After two weeks the two grasses will establish in the lawn, which will provide an improved quality to the surface. This action will very much reduce moss and broadleaved weed infection in the future.
Ray Broughton
April 2009
RJB Fact Sheet Number 7
Allotment Holders
1) It is important to select the correct organic matter for your soil.
· Clay soils require additional air, therefore use coarse half rotted organic matter - avoid well rotted manure /compost which attracts too much water and ultimately nutrients.
· Sandy soils need humus to assist the retention of water and plant nutrients, therefore apply well rotted manure/compost to the soil.
2) What are the benefits of the quick cook compost method of compost making?
· Compost in three or four months.
· No turning is necessary
· No vermin
· Weeds seeds are killed
· Pernicious weeds can be added to the compost heap
· Pests and diseases can be added to the compost heap
3) Have you tried using water pipes to grow Leeks successfully?
4) Have you tried using NUTRA BALLS to supply nutrients to soft and top fruit?
5) A successful but perhaps unconventional way of cleaning tools is to use tomato sauce. This should be applied with a coarse paint brush and left on the tool for two hours. After this period it should be washed off and the tools should be thoroughly dried. It is particularly successful in cleaning knives and secateurs.
6) If you have trouble with onions rotting, or parsnip canker try using a small amount of vermiculite mixed with flowers of sulphur (not green sulphur which is now illegal) in the seed drill or when planting onions.
7) There has been a lot of problem with manure in recent years. To avoid problems with herbicide in the manure, use the cress test.
8) You can also use the cress test with the quality of the water in the water butt or tank. Always remember that water from the water butt is not advisable to be used on seedlings.
9) If you are a growing long-term plants in the vegetable garden and you have a chalky soil why not try using the following mix in the planting hole when transplanting.
One third composted bark, one third vermiculite and one third garden compost which is well rotted.