2009.1 - Charlotte Harbor

APRIL 9-12 2009 :: CHARLOTTE HARBOR EASTER

This is another quick “long weekend” type trip, trying to pack as much fun as possible into a couple days and trying to realize a small taste of what it would be like to be retired and have the time to really cruise. This time we are heading to Florida’s west coast, and planning to explore the area around Boca Grande Inlet and Cayo Costa State Park.

April 9 - Vero Beach to Punta Gorda

Top Cat, with crew Jayne and Jonathan and Cha-Cha the wonder poodle, trailered over from Vero Beach to the Laishley Park Municipal Marina in Punta Gorda, about a 3 hour trip. We got launched and got a slip for the night at the marina. It is a very new and nice facility, right in downtown and near all sorts of shopping and dining. We unhooked the trailer and drove the truck down to Fort Myers for a quick family visit, and then had dinner at Dean’s, a Mexican restaurant a block or two from the marina. Not the best Mexican food we have ever had, and the place was pretty noisy, but we were starving by then and it did the trick. We got everything stowed for a couple days of living on the hook, and settled in for the night.

In the slip at Laishley Park Marina Leaving Laishley Park Marina, Punta Gorda

April 10 – Punta Gorda to Cayo Costa

We got up this morning, walked Cha-Cha, got a bag of ice and a head pump-out, and then were on our way about 20 miles south from the marina near the mouth of the Peace River and down Charlotte Harbor to Boca Grande Inlet. Charlotte Harbor is a pretty big body of water – out in the middle you can barely see land in any direction, and with 20 knots of wind blowing from the south along its considerable fetch, the shallow water is pretty choppy. After about an hour’s run straight into the chop, we tuck into the north end of Cayo Costa, where there is a state park landing and a big anchorage filled with cruising boats, almost all of them much larger than us. It is still quite windy, so we find a little cove, almost completely enclosed, and anchor up there with 3 other boats. We are totally out of the wind and are sitting as calmly as if we were at the dock.

There is a little drama as the crew from one of the other boats goes ashore, and is severely bitten by a dog belonging to some folks who are camping (not allowed, by the way) on the island. The poor guy has to sail off to the nearest emergency room, with only his two kids for crew. The dog's owner heads out also, but returns later along with his dog. We are a little nervous about taking Cha-Cha ashore here with the killer mutt, so we find another little beach farther away. Jayne is feeling poorly today, suspecting the fajitas she had last night, and is spending most of the day napping, while I lounge around and read. We grill up some marinated chicken thighs for dinner, and have a quiet night.

Cha-cha going ashore, Pelican Bay anchorage, Cayo Coasta

April 11 – Cayo Costa

The wind died out this morning, and the mosquitoes and the no-see-ums came out at dawn with a vengeance! We stayed in the cabin until they dispersed with the rising sun, and gave them a shot of Yard-Guard to send them on their way. Then we were free to make breakfast and take Cha-Cha ashore, again avoiding the killer mutt. It looks on the chart like there is an area of deep water right up against the shore at the very south end of Cayo Costa Island – seems a likely spot to anchor up right on the beach. There are a few other boats there already when we arrive, and we anchor with the bow anchor in 8 feet and a stern anchor on the beach, and you can practically step off the swim platform on to the beach.

We walk around the point to the Gulf side past a huge stand of dead trees which I assume are a result of Hurricane Charley a couple years back. The shelling on this beach is phenomenal – it must be what Captiva would be like if there weren’t a thousand people constantly scavenging the beach every tide. We found lots of miniature lightning whelks, olive shells, tulips, and pen oysters. After a couple mile walk, we return to the boat and swim for a while, when the place starts to get a little crowded.

Wilderness beach, south end of Cayo Costa Great shelling, south end of Cayo Costa

Then we headed back north to Cabbage Key, a landmark historic little resort accessible only by boat. We wove our way through the packed bar and got a table for lunch. The place is literally wallpapered with signed dolar bills, at least an inch thick on every surface. Local legend says this was the spot that inspired Jimmy Buffet’s “Cheeseburger in Paradise” so we ordered cheeseburgers of course, and they were pretty darn good – so where the margaritas!

Cabbage Key

Then it was back to Cayo Costa for the evening. It being much less windy, this time we chose the large open anchorage just off the state park docks. We are not too far from a little beach for Cha-Cha to go ashore, if she ever wakes up after her long, long walk on the beach this morning. We kayaked around the anchorage and chatted with a few of our neighbors, and then grilled up some mangrove snapper and shrimp for dinner, with rice and asparagus.

April 12 – Cayo Costa to Vero Beach

Today is Easter Sunday, and we watched the symbolic sunrise over Pelican Bay in the company of herons, egrets, and dolphins. After a morning kayak around the anchorage, we packed up and got started on our return trip.

Easter Morning sunrise, Pelican Bay anchorage, Cayo Costa

We took a side excursion over to Gasparilla Island and nosed into the channel and harbor. All very flossy and old money there. Not our cup of tea, but certainly elegant.

Some fog rolled in, reducing visibility to under a half mile. This is very unusual around these parts, and we are not used to navigating in fog. But we had our waypoints in the chartplotter and kept a sharp lookout, and didn’t have any problems. By noon we were back on the trailer and secured for the road, and by 3:30 back at home safe and sound.