1902 Pattern Service Dress
By the time of the Boer War it had become clear to British generals that the days of the army fighting in scarlet tunics were over. The army had been experimenting with khaki (derived from the Indian for 'dust' coloured) since the mid 19th century and they had become standard issue by the end of it. In South Africa uniforms were made of thin drill material not appropriate for mainland Europe. Thus a new woollen uniform was needed and the result was the 1902 pattern Service Dress. In terms of design it was not a radical departure from the standard uniforms of the time. It was a five button, four pocket tunic with shoulder tabs. The chest pockets were pleated and the shoulders were re-enforced with 'rifle patches' to protect them from wearing out. The colour however was something new; remember that the French went to war in 1914 in scarlet trousers and kepis and the Germans with their uniforms piped in bright colours. Pictured is an original 1902 pattern jacket (note how the previous owner added an extra hook and eye under the collar for a smarter look). These have become very rare and should not be used for living history. The later 1922 pattern jackets (made until the 1960's and still easy enough to get today) are very similar, but there are certain differences that I will attempt to highlight. First is the colour, uniforms in the Great War were a little greener than the dark brown uniforms adopted later. Secondly under the collar of 1902 pattern jackets there are two darts of material, and the collar itself is unlined. Finally the linings in 1902 pattern jackets were white at the start of the war and darkened to fawn by the end, but were never the khaki seen in postwar garments. A variation of the jacket was the 'utility' version, an economy measure introduced in 1915. This simplified version lacked the rifle patches on the shoulders and the pleats on the pockets. Many were issued even to the end of the war alongside the regular jackets. The medal ribbons displayed here are the 1914-1918 Star, a Long Service Ribbon, the Victory Medal and the Star of Gallantry
The straight legged trousers were made from the same khaki serge material as the tunic. The originalc pattern have pockets, but these were done away with in the 'utility versions.' Both had a button fly and also had buttons around the waist for attaching a pair of braces (or 'suspenders'). Originally these buttons were arranged in pairs, but in 1918 the regulations stated that the buttons should be sewn on in singles to save materials. The limited lining was of white or off white cotton or denim. The cavalry wore woolen breaches. These had re-enforcements sewn directly onto the inside legs. Original trousers are even rarer than the tunics, even 1922 pattern trousers have become hard to find now. However good reproductions of the 1902 pattern are available from a number of sources.