Freedom Trail - Section 4 Diversion

Shepperton Ferry  to  Walton Bridge  2.1 miles

Shepperton Ferry to Walton Bridge, via Church Square and Halliford, is a 2.1 miles diversion for the Freedom Trail, if for any reason you are unable to cross the River Thames via the ferry. This adds an extra mile to the walk. 

You can see a map of this route at MapMyWalk. The map can be downloaded as a GPX or KML file.

If you just want to print out the "Route Instructions" of Section 4 Diversion via Church Square, without all the blurb on the website, you can download this as a Word Doc by clicking on the blue button below.

Turn left into Ferry Lane and past Nauticalia. Stay on the LHS as there is a pavement / cycle lane.

Ferry Lane is usually quiet, probably due to the road along the river changing to one-way in the opposite direction after the Thames Court Hotel.

A field next to Ferry Lane has a ghostly story associated with it. In 1929 a Vickers Vanguard aircraft crashed here, killing both its crew. Many local people heard the noise from the crash several times over the next few years and some even reported seeing the ghost plane come down in the moonlight.

After 0.35 miles, at T-junction, turn right along Chertsey Road staying on the RHS pavement.

After 300 yards follow the road as it turns left and past Church Square at Old Shepperton.

The name Shepperton means "shepherds' settlement" and this place is quite unique as it can trace its origins back to over 5,000 years ago. In 1989 at Staines Road Farm, just north of Laleham Road and west of the M3 motorway at Shepperton Green, traces of a small circular ditched enclosure (or "henge") were uncovered. This was dated to about 3500 BC and around the time when Stonehenge was constructed. "Shepperton Henge" is thought to have been a site of worship as its entrance faces the midsummer sunrise. An aerial map and some photos of the site are available on the Exploring Surrey's Past website. As well as animal bones, pottery, tools and colouring materials, the remains of two humans were also found buried in the ditch. The skull of one, a woman believed to be in her 30s when she died, was painstakingly reconstructed and using scientific methods so were her features. Carbon dating suggests she lived sometime between 3640 and 3100 BC and this makes her the oldest ever human remains found in the London area. She is now known as "Shepperton Woman" and is sometimes referred to as London's First Lady. The skull and the reconstructed head are on display at the Museum of London.

Another significant find at Laleham Road in Halliford was uncovered in 1950. This was a simple pottery urn containing 360 coins cast in tin and bronze and a designed derived from Greek coins of Marseilles. They are known as "the Sunbury Hoard", are believed to have been buried around 100 - 50 BC and now in the Museum of London.

At the time of the Domesday Book (1086), Shepperton was known as Scepertone, and was owned by Westminster Abbey. Early Saxon cemeteries on the north of Chertsey Road and near Walton Bridge also suggest settlements here in the 5th and 6th centuries.

Church Square at Old Shepperton, is a prime example of village survival. There has been a wooden church here since the 7th Century and a stone one since the 12th Century. Although some of the foundations of the older church are still thought to be in place, the current church dates from 1614. The rectangular bell tower was added in the early 18th Century. North of the church is the rectory, parts of which date from the 15th Century. The excellent Queen Anne front was added around 1700.  Like many old building, stories of ghosts have emerged. In this case the ghost is said to be Erasmus, 15th Century Dutch renaissance scholar, a friend of William Grocyn, Rector of Shepperton from 1504 - 1513.

On the north side of St. Nicholas Church is the solitary grave of Margaret Love Peacock (died 1826). She was the daughter of Thomas Love Peacock and died when just three years old. Peacock wrote a poem to his little daughter which he had inscribed on the headstone on the grave. The grave and headstone are well preserved. For historical purposes it is classified as a Grade 2 listed building and although over 190 years old you can just about still read the poem. You can also listen to it at Thames.me.uk.


'Long night succeeds thy little day

Oh blighted blossom can it be

That this grey stone and grassy clay

That this grey stone and grassy clay

 

That this grey stone and grassy clay

That spoke a mind beyond thy years

The song the dance by nature caught

The sunny smile the transient tears.

 

The symmetry of face and form

The age with light and life replete

The little heart so fondly warm

The voice so musically sweet.

 

The saddest to in memory of

Around the hearts that loved the cling

She leaving with long and regret

The in promise of thy spring.'


'The grave, like many other parts of the river along here, is mentioned in Jerome K Jerome's "Three Men in a Boat" - see end of Chapter 8..

"There is a tomb in Shepperton churchyard, however, with a poem on it, and I was nervous lest Harris should want to get out and fool round it. I saw him fix a longing eye on the landing-stage as we drew near it, so I managed, by an adroit movement, to jerk his cap into the water, and in the excitement of recovering that, and his indignation at my clumsiness, he forgot all about his beloved graves."

Grave of Margaret Love Peacock

Thames Path Sign, Church Square

The Anchor Hotel dates back over 400 years. It was a haunt of highwayman Dick Turpin. This may explain why after one of his visits a pistol was found in the rafters inscribed "Dick's Friend". It is also claimed to be the place where Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor's romance first blossomed. They stayed here in 1964 whilst he was filming "Becket" at the nearby Shepperton Film Studios. The hotel has also been used as the setting for many TV dramas.

Many famous movies have been made at Shepperton Studios over the years and many of the actors have stayed in the two hotels in the Square. It's a shame the hotels do not have a log of this as it would be extensive. The studios are just a mile to the north, near the vast Queen Mary Reservoir.

Above the inside door of The Anchor Hotel is an inscription:

'Through these Portals have passed

The Rich, the famous. Prime Ministers, Statesmen, Politicians.

Notorious Personages of dubious character, Wenches, Pugilists,

Visitors from the Colonies (including the Americas), Sporting Gentry,

Vagabonds, Glamorous Artistes from the World of Motion Pictures, -

But the Most Important of Them All is You!'

Inscription above inner door of the Anchor Hotel, Church Square, Shepperton

Opposite the church on other side of the Square is the Warren Lodge Hotel and is owned by the same company as The Anchor Hotel. The hotel website states:

"The Warren Lodge Hotel started life as a private house and the oldest parts of the hotel date from around 1700. However, the most historic feature of the Hotel is the Mulberry Tree that dominates the garden. In the 16th Century, Cardinal Wolsey, the then Lord Chancellor of England, rebuilt Hampton Court Palace, which sits a few miles downstream from the Hotel. He ordered that Mulberry Trees be planted along the Thames so that, in season, he could always partake of his favourite fruit as he made his way up and down the river." 

In 1964 the hotel was bought by Douglas Gordon as his first business venture. It only had a few rooms and a bar. He made a huge success of it and enlarged. Later he went on to buy The Anchor Hotel and another, The Ship at Weybridge, to form Shepperton Hotels Ltd. The Warren Lodge also has an extensive list of famous visitors. The history section of the hotel website lists a few and an article, dated April 2018 from The Terence Rattigan Society (on page 4) tells more about Douglas Gordon, his famous visitors and his life - it's a great read.

When I visited the Warren Lodge Hotel, in the late 1990s there was a few music memorability hanging on the walls, including Roger Daltry's gold disc for sales of "Tommy".

The car park of the hotel was known as Ferry Square. There was a ferry here from the 14th century. In 1970 the square was handed over to the people of Shepperton by the Lord of the Manor for them to enjoy. The occasion is commemorated by a plaque on the wall of the car park.

Next to the Warren Lodge is The King's Head. This was an old coaching inn and dates from the 15th Century. The stables have long gone and have been incorporated into the pub. Again, the pub website lists some of the well-known visitors and even has a photo of Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor leaving. The pub claims to be haunted, one of the ghosts is said to be a headless monk from Chertsey Abbey. He gave up his holy vows to live with a woman at Shepperton, but was beheaded for doing so by his holy brothers (see link).

Continue along Chertsey Road using RHS pavement.

After 320 yards turn right, signed Thames Path, into Manor Park car park and go straight on along footpath.

Footpath from car park at Manor Park

The footpath leads across the edge of the park, through some trees and on to the River Thames. Turn left to follow a path across the grass with the river to your RHS.

This backwater of the River Thames is peaceful and well hidden from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. There is a timeless feel about it, and this makes it popular with film companies.

In June each year, Manor Park hosts the Shepperton Village Fair. It's a big event with most of the community getting involved. One of the highlights is the annual Nauticalia Raft Race. It starts at the Ferry Slipway and follows the mainstream River Thames for almost a mile to finish on this backwater of the river at Manor Park. The raft race is one of the largest in the country and has a different theme each year. Thousands of people line the riverbank at the finish. Crews put a lot of work in preparing for the event and It looks a lot of fun, as you will from a short video at YouTube from 2013 and another, more personal, one below from 2011.

After 170 yards turn left, away from the River Thames, to follow the Thames Path through the trees and eventually to the car park of Shepperton Cricket Club (the cricket pitch is to your LHS).

Follow signs for Thames Path into the trees and then up a wooden ramp (the Brownies & Guides Hut is away to your right-hand side).

The path comes out onto grass next to Russell Road. Go straight on along the grass and over a lane, then soon over another lane and onto the pavement.

You soon pass the Red Lion pub which has a beer garden on both sides of the road, the one to your right overlooking the River Thames. This short stretch along Russell Road once had four pubs, now only one remains. According to British History Online parts of the pub dates back to the 17th century. The pub website states:

"The oldest part of the pub lies back from the road and is now used as our 'Snug'. This was the building occupied by the first known licensee, Robert Reed, between 1722 and 1730. In 1864, when the railway came to Shepperton, this little riverside pub saw a roaring trade from people coming down from London at the weekend to spend time on or near the River Thames. It was around this time that the Shepperton & Halliford Regatta commenced and took place in front of the pub largely down to the influence of Edward Rosewell the landlord at the time.

The pub expanded in the late 1950s to incorporate Eyot Cottage, which was home to the Rosewell/Rixon boating business, which let boats and operated a ferry from the 'shore' next to the Red Lion riverside garden." 

The pavement does become narrow along the next stretch of Russell Road, but after 120 yards turn right, signed public footpath and along a well-maintained path across a small green. 

The area along Russell Road and south of it around the large green to your left is Lower Halliford. Halliford (holy ford) got its name from a hermit, a holy man who lived here in Anglo-Saxon times by the ford, and is said to have performed miracles. Legend has it that the Romans, under Julius Caesar crossed the Thames from near Cowey Sale to Halliford and, fought a battle here in 54 BC. The village has connections with Lady Hamilton, Lord Nelson and English Monarchs including King Edgar, Elizabeth I, Charles I and Charles II. Many houses around the Green, along the river and in the village have English Heritage plaques on their front noting them as "Buildings of Historical Interest". 

The footpath comes out onto a pavement, by Peacock House, veer right and follow the pavement along Walton Lane (Do Not follow signs for the Thames Path).

Peacock House, on the corner of the Lower Halliford Green, was home to 19th century writer Thomas Love Peacock (1785 - 1886); appropriately the house is topped with a peacock weather vane and the writer is remembered by a blue plaque on the front wall. Peacock was a member of a close circle of visionary poets and writers which included Percy Shelley, Mary Shelley and Lord Byron. He died here at the age of 81, on 23rd January 1866 from injuries he sustained in a fire whilst trying to save his library. He is buried in Old Shepperton Cemetery, reached by a narrow road just north of Church Square.

Directly across Walton Lane is an 18th century weather-boarded house named Dunally Cottage, and according to a document dated 2004 from Spelthorne Borough Council it appears to have also been once owned by Peacock:

"Dunally Cottage was originally a barn built in 1720 and Poet's Cottage was built in 1833 and both have weather boarded end elevation. Dunally Cottage and Poet's Cottage were two separate dwellings until Poet's Cottage was bought in 1985 from Steve Holley, Paul McCartney's drummer in "Wings" and combined with Dunally Cottage to create one dwelling...

"Mary Shelley (1797 - 1851) author of "Frankenstein" once lived in Dunally Cottage which was lent to her by Thomas Love Peacock circa 1820, before her husband died in 1822."

George Meredith, novelist and poet, married Peacock's daughter Mary Ellen and they lived for a period at Vine Cottage, just across the green to the right on Russell Road.

Follow Walton Lane for 0.4 miles. Then at roundabout junction, turn right and stay on RHS pavement over Walton Bridge.

After crossing river, turn right (Walton Lane) and follow RHS pavement down, soon over road to Walton Marina and for an extra 50 yards. Then turn right to River Thames and right along Thames Path.

You have now re-joined the original route at 12.45 miles. 

© Sean Davis 2015 - 2022