Zimbabwe

We timidly rolled into Zambia/Zimbabwe border crossing feeling a bit apprehensive, but at the same time excited. Up to this point we haven't met anyone who had recently traveled through Zimbabwe and could provide an up-to-date information on the situation in the country. Fortunately one of my travel buddies, Liz, has some distant relatives living in eastern Zim, who emailed us assuring that things are calm and it's safe to travel. For those of you unfamiliar with the recent developments in this landlocked country, I thought I‘d provide a quick and basic historical overview.

Zimbabwe, also known as Rhodesia before its independence in 1980, has always had a tumulus history (which African country hasn’t?). Infamous Cecil Rhodes, the founder of British South African Company, colonized vast stretches of land to explore its enormous mineral riches and to take advantage of the fertile soil. By 1904 European immigration to Rhodesia started in its earnest, and at that time the new country of Rhodesia was home to 12,000 white settlers and rapidly growing. It wasn’t long until the tensions between the local population and the white settlers began to rise. In 1930, Land Apportionment Act prohibited black farmers from owning best farmland and labor laws excluded them from entering skilled trades and professions. These and other transgressions naturally gave rise to nationalism movements. After much struggle and bloodshed it wasn’t until 1980 that Robert Mugabe became the first prime minister of independent Zimbabwe. His initial political platform was that of reconciliation, assuring white businesses and commercial farmers that they had an important role in Zimbabwe’s society. In fact, by 1980 there were 6,000 white commercial farmers who formed the elite of Zim’s economy. They owned 40 per cent of all agricultural land and two thirds of the best land. They grew 90% of maze, cotton and virtually all tobacco and other export crops, accounting for 1/3 of all exports, and most importantly employing 1/3 of all wage-earning labor force, or some 271,000 people. The first years after independence Zimbabwe enjoyed rapid economic growth and expansion of social services.

The issue of land reform, however, pressed heavily on Mugabe’s administration. Four million people lived on communal land that was overcrowded, overgrazed and quickly deteriorating. Land shortage and land degradation were deeply entrenched problems -- the result of decades of unjust Rhodesian rule. Once again mutual distrust, and resentment over enormous wealth enjoyed by white community gave rise to underlying tensions. Within 3 years of independence about half of white population emigrated, bringing the total numbers to around 100,000. Political situation in Zimbabwe also deteriorated and by 1987 it was a one-party Marxist state with Mugabe declared head of state, head of government, commander-in-chief of defense forces and with powers to dissolve parliament, declare martial law and run for the unlimited number of terms in the office. Vast system of patronage produced a powerful and corrupt ruling elite.

In early 90’s, under pressure from growing discontent, Mugabe embarked on radical land nationalization program that proved ruinous for this country. Without consulting farmers, rural communities, or agricultural experts, Mugabe vowed to redistribute 13 million acres -- half of white-owned land -- to poor peasants. In reality, however, this programmed was mired in corruption, with Mugabe’s ministers and cronies appropriating the best lands for themselves. Farmers were evicted on short notice without any compensation. Zimbabwe quickly declined into economic quagmire. By the end of 90’s unemployment was at 50%, inflation was at 60% and two-thirds of population lived in abject poverty. Land grab, however, continued at its earnest. The rule of law vanished and gross economic mismanagement led to one of the worst inflation rates recorded. The highest bank note in circulation was 100 trillion Zim dollars. Prices were changing in the matter of minutes. From 1999 to 2004 economy shrank by one-third. A serious brain drained ensued, as doctors, lawyers, accountants , teachers and other professionals began migrating to escape country’s bleak future. Black middle class joined the remaining white farmers in its mass exodus. Economic sanctions imposed by international community led to further deterioration in living standards. In 2008 stores were void of any sort of produce, petrol was rationed and political violence and lawlessness had reached its peak. The last 2 years, however, have seen things to slowly turn around on the economic front. In 2009, Zimbabwian dollar was officially abandoned in favor of US dollars, which halted runaway inflation… and eliminates the need for the conversion math for travelers like myself.

So as we crossed the border into Zimbabwe we proceeded cautiously, half expecting riots and anarchy on the streets. Instead, we found nice, quiet roads with proper signage and working traffic lights. We stopped at the nearest gas station and got diesel without having to queue. Shops seemed to have been fully stocked with veggies, meats and other produce. In fact, on the surface it appeared like a very functioning African town. Pleasantly surprised we carried on to our first destination -- Zim’s jewel, the famous Mana Pools National park situated along the mighty Zambezi river and known for its remoteness, scenic landscapes and abundant wildlife. It received some notorious press last year when a German traveler was snatched by a lion from an outdoor shower. Hearing other close encounters with the wildlife, Liz was on a mission to get us into something more robust then our flimsy tents. Somehow she managed to get us a sweet cottage in the middle of the park, sitting right on the bank of Zambezi… and for a very affordable rate. It was a truly stunning place and as we sat on our doorstep sipping beers we listened to hippos grunting, admired enormous crocs bathing in evening sunrays and kept a watchful eye on vervet monkeys jumping all around us. And as sun began to set, I imagined that this is what Africa was like long time before the rampant poaching and destructive human incursions. We spent 3 magical days in the park. We were really lucky to spot and follow a pack of wild African dogs, known as one of the most efficient and unrelenting hunters. Saw hyenas and then heard their menacing calls at night. Surprised a large bull elephant, who trumpeted and mock charged us. Wild stuff!

Next stop, the capital of Zim -- Harare. We did some admin stuff, took out US dollars from an ATM and stocked up on some produce. Then we were off to Eastern Highlands, driving onto higher elevation, towards a mountain range that separates Zim from Mozambique. I must note that it is winter here in southern hemisphere and you wouldn’t believe how cold it gets in Africa. During the day strong sun keeps you toasty, but in the evenings and the mornings I get out my winter jacket and often a hat as well. So the highlands, although spectacular, were a bit frigid. Luckily there is an abundance of firewood and we spent all of our evenings huddled around a campfire. After a few days of hiking we drove to a town of Chipinge where we met Trevor, Liz’s cousin.

Unbeknownst to us we were about to discover a whole other side of Zimbabwe. Trevor is the third generation Zimbabwean and was, until recently, a rather successful commercial farmer. He was also the president of Zim’s Commercial Farmers Union. Last year a gang of thugs showed up at his farm and proclaimed that the land now belonged to them, giving him 6 hours to vacate the farm. He left all of his property and livestock behind, taking only the things he could carry. Since then he brought this matter to court and the High Court of Zimbabwe ruled (as it ruled in many other cases) that such action were deemed illegal. Yet, in the blatant disrespect for the rule of law president Mugabe proclaimed such rulings irrelevant and instructed police force not to intervene. We asked Trevor to show us the farm and as we drove on a public road bordering the property, numerous warning shots were fired. It was a little disconcerting, especially since I rode in the back of a pick-up truck (I must note that aside from this nasty incident we felt extremely safe during our entire stay in Zim). We witness wholesale looting: trees were being cut, farming equipment stolen and farm animals disappearing. It’s hard to imagine the angst and betrayal that Trevor feels. I admire his tenacity and courage. Trevor also introduce us to some the remaining farmers in the area and gave us a tour of a tea factory, macademia nuts farm and a banana plantation.

It is now a waiting game. There are rumors within the diplomatic circles that Mugabe is terminally ill and has less than a year to live. Trevor, and the remaining white community who decided not to give up their lifetime of work, are hoping the change is near. I must note that many people here believe that the land reform is inevitable, and is needed, but must be done in a transparent and equitable way. Zimbabwe‘s land, which was at one time considered the breadbasket of Africa, now lays dormant.

We left Chipinge and followed Trevor south to a small wildlife reserve and hunting lodge that still belongs to his relatives, but is being eyed by Mugabe’s lieutenants. Despite the chaos and the uncertainty we were received with unbound hospitality. It was fascinating to talk to Trevor and his brothers-in-law who, among other things, are considered one of the best professional hunters in Zimbabwe. We spent hours around a fire listening to some of the most amazing stories. Their encounters with lions; a client mauled by a wounded leopard; stalking elephants and other mesmerizing stories from the depth of the African bush.

After a week of being pampered and iron-rich diet (i.e lots and lots of steak) we bid a teary farewell to Trevor and his family. We stopped at Great Zimbabwe ruins, a World Heritage Site, and then carried on to Bulawayo, Zim’s second-largest city and its former capital. We arrived around 6pm on Tuesday, and yet as we drove through the city there was hardly any traffic. It felt strangely deserted. The next day we did a day trip to Motopo national park just 40km outside the city, known for the picturesque landscape strewn with precariously balancing boulders. Also, some of the best preserved rock cave paintings are found in this area. And, one of the major tourist attractions, is the final resting place of the founder of Rhodesia -- Cecil John Rhodes.

After a few days in Bulowayo we pushed on to our final destination in Zimbabwe, the world famous Victoria Falls, which were discovered by my favorite explorer Dr. Livingstone. , Unfortunately, it is also one of the most touristy destinations in Africa, which is tantamount with unrelenting touts, luxurious tour buses and overpriced restaurants. Still, the falls will take your breath away. I can only imagine what Livingstone felt when he stumbled upon this natural wonder.

Zimbabwe has been a great ride. Ironically, this country wasn’t even on my itinerary at the beginning of my trip some 10 months ago. Yet, as I travel around this continent I quickly realized that media’s portrayal of Africa is full of sensationalism and distortion. I have always felt safe and have never been sick (knock on wood). It is an amazing place to see.

Next stop is Botswana. Stay tuned.