The boat handling downwind is different when sailing with a spinnaker as your head sail versus when sailing with the jib as your head sail. This page elaborates on the boat handling when using the jib.
GENERAL PRINCIPLE
When your objective is to sail to a destination directly downwind of your current position you have a number of options for how to get there. You could point right at your destination, therefore sailing directly downwind. This will be the shortest distance, but also a potentially slower course of sail than if you were to sail a reaching angle. Sailing a reach is often faster (due to increased apparent wind), but you will sail more distance.
HOW DO YOU DECIDE UPON A COURSE?
If there's adequate wind pressure (8-10 knots +) and it's not too wavy, then you will likely be able to sail directly down wind. Sailing a reach will only increase your speed slightly, and that speed increase will be negated by the extra distance sailed to arrive at your objective. If it's light air, then you will need to sail a reaching angle downwind. While you'll be sailing more distance, you will get to the mark faster due to the increase in speed. Sailing directly downwind in light air is too costly due to the slow boat speed. To find the correct angle, you need to sail as low as possible with the jib still full. Sailing at this angle will be your Velocity Made Good (VMG). Visit the Down wind with Jib page for more detail on this topic.
While sailing down wind, you will need to jibe periodically. Read below for how to do so efficiently.
When sailing a broad reach course the skipper is sitting opposite the mainsail (windward side) and the crew is sitting to leeward trimming the jib. The boat is flat (no heel to windward or leeward).
Prepare to jibe:
SKIPPER - Let your crew know you intend to jibe. Look around you for other boats. Identify whether you are sailing in a puff or a lull. Check for puffs behind you.
CREW - Acknowledge your skipper's intent to jibe. Do not change your body position or sail trim until the jibe actually begins.
Jibe:
SKIPPER - Begin turning the boat to leeward using the hiking stick. Keep your weight up on the rail as you turn. Trim a few feet of mainsheet to increase your chance of jibing without tangling the mainsheet on the transom. (TIP: Do not over-trim the main. Remember, trimming the main makes the boat want to turn towards the wind, and you are trying to bear away.)
CREW - Drop the jib sheet and move your weight to the windward side BEFORE the boat actually jibes. This weight movement will help steer the boat through the jibe.
SKIPPER - When you feel the mainsail on the verge of jibing (the leach starting to collapse and the mainsheet going slack are two signs to look for) use your mainsheet trimming hand to give a BIG trim that pulls the main to the new windward side. The goal is to get the main to jibe earlier in the turn so you can turn less in total. Also, the big trim will help prevent the mainsheet from tangling on the stern corners and rudder post of the boat.
SKIPPER - The moment the mainsail jibes you need to shift aggressively to the new windward side of the boat. Over-flatten the boat to help steer the boat back to a downwind course.
CREW - As the boat jibes you should remain to leeward and begin trimming the jib on the new broad reach. In windy conditions it may be necessary for you to cross with the skipper to help flatten the boat (therefore steering it back downwind) before returning to the leeward side to trim the jib.
SKIPPER - As the boom crosses the boat to the new jibe let the mainsheet run out immediately so the boom goes all the way to the shroud. Complete your hand switch.
When sailing downwind on a wing on wing course the skipper is sitting opposite the mainsail (windward side) and the crew is sitting on the windward side as well as trimming the jib. The boat is heeling to windward.
Prepare to jibe:
SKIPPER - Let your crew know you intend to jibe. Look around you for other boats. Identify whether you are sailing in a puff or a lull. Check for puffs behind you.
CREW - Acknowledge your skipper's intent to jibe. Do not change your body position or sail trim until the jibe actually begins.
Jibe:
SKIPPER - Hike extra hard to help steer the boat into the jibe. Also use the tiller to initiate the turn. Trim a few feet of mainsheet to increase your chance of jibing without tangling the mainsheet on the transom. (TIP: Do not over-trim the main any more than 1-2 feet. Remember, trimming the main makes the boat want to turn towards the wind, and you are trying to bear away.)
CREW - Continue flying the jib to windward. Hike extra hard as you do so to help steer the boat through the turn.
SKIPPER - When you feel the mainsail on the verge of jibing (the leach starting to collapse and the mainsheet going slack are two signs to look for) use your mainsheet trimming hand to give a BIG trim that pulls the main to the new windward side. The goal is to get the main to jibe earlier in the turn so you can turn less in total. Also, the big trim will help prevent the mainsheet from tangling on the stern corners and rudder post of the boat.
SKIPPER - The moment the mainsail jibes you and the crew need to shift aggressively to the new windward side of the boat. Over-flatten the boat to help steer the boat back to a downwind course.
CREW - As the boat jibes you need to shift aggressively to the new windward side of the boat and begin trimming the jib on the new wing-on-wing course. If the skipper has accidentally over-steered through the jibe, then be patient about getting the boat back to course before trimming the sail.
SKIPPER - As the boom crosses the boat to the new jibe let the mainsheet run out immediately so the boom goes all the way to the shroud. Complete your hand switch.
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