South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium
or PPAFSSTIKS05KA = Pirate Petes Absolutely Fabulous South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium 2005 Kayak Adventures
June 2005 found me at Twanoh State Park on the shores of Hood Canal, Puget Sound, Not very far from Seattle. This was a zillion miles away from my home in Wellington, New Zealand. I had to pinch myself to reassure myself that this was for real and ponder just how exactly did I get here.
I guess it all started when I realised that quite a few Americans had visited New Zealand and gone paddling here. Sure there are plenty of paddling opportunities in New Zealand, enough to entertain me for at least a life time. But I thought that it was about time I broaden my horizons and consider a reciprocal visit.
Initially, the idea of paddling in Ireland, drinking guiness and being a tourist had great appeal. A quick google search using the key words: "Ireland Coast " got me to this site: Ireland Coast.
Yup, that could be me! and maybe one day I will make it there.
But a more favourable $$ exchange rate with USA at the time and the prospects of visiting the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayaking Symposium: SSTIKS and extending my skills and knowlege of Skin on Frame kayaks was even more tempting.
So I bought some aeroplane tickets, told every body that I was coming, checked that my passport would actually work and jumped on a 747 for Seattle via San Francisco. Before I really knew what was happening there I was on the Shores of Hood Canal in Puget Sound for SSTIKS 2005.
Soon after I arrived at Twanoh State Park, a shower of rain came along and put the dampeners on things for me. I had imagined things might have been a bit more tropical. I could tell that Steve and Jo from the much warmer climes of Texas were thinking like me: "eek, it all looks too cold, maybe we will hit the water tomorrow". But in a symbolic gesture, a pair of New Zealand feet were plonked into the waters of Puget Sound - and it wasn't that bad.
I met up with Shawn Baker who I had met at Coastbusters Kayak conference 2004 in New Zealand. The boys from Montana had driven 10 hours to get to SSTIKS and had been hand sewing neoprene tuiliks while they travelled. Here they are putting the final touches to their garments in the middle of the night.
I didn't sign up for the paddle making class, but it would have been a great idea and might have solved the problem of flying an 8 foot long paddle over from New Zealand.
Under the expert guidance of Don Beale the class were creating some really nice paddles.
LEARNING TO SEW: I signed up for the neoprene mitt making class primarily to get some experience at working with neoprene so I could eventually make a neoprene tuilik. I was learning heaps: like sewing; and cutting neoprene with 'cloth scissors' and paper paterns with 'paper scissors', but I was making really slow progress and the down side was that I was missing out on paddling time. But it wasn't all bad because I was closely checking out what John Doornink had done with his tuiliks and comparing that to what Shawn had done. Plus I might have been spending more time chatting away to Dick Mahler and John Petersen (who were also doing the mitt class) rather than sewing like I should have.
Ken Jenkins, my host, had brought 3 kayaks along to the conference and kindly lent me his son, Jeff's fine kayak (foreground). Ken had met me at the Bainbridge Ferry and brought me to Twanoh State Park. As we were carrying my enormous pile of luggage and food out of the ferry terminal a police officer with A GUN (In New Zealand our police officers are mostly un-armed so this was REALLY unusual for me) came up to Ken and said "Excuse me sir, do you realise that your vehicle is parked in an illegal area".
I immediately thought that we were going to be shot on the spot for illegal parking and started to wonder exactly what sort of bad company (traditional intuit kayak conference goers) I had fallen in with. But it was just Ken's friend Tom the police officers way of saying "Hi" ... Well you could say that was almost a change of underware moment for me ;)
With the neoprene mitts pretty much sewed up, it was time to finally hit the water for the group paddle. Paddling on Puget Sound was pretty with a harbour seal lurking around, Bald eagles flying by, plenty of forest and expensive realestate to look at. It was much more scenic than I had expected and sensational to be paddling in the company of so many skin on frame kayaks.
The rest of SSTIKS conference was a whirr of: Greenland paddle strokes class with Pavia Lumholt and Dubside .... Intermediate roll class with Shawn Baker.....The roll demonstration..... The race where I proved that not all New Zealanders are internationally competitive (although I did hold onto 2nd place for half the race). Being unfit and after a busy day it was inevitable that I should 'blow up' at the turning mark and idle back to the finish line gasping for breath and using my first spectacular glimpse of Mount Olympus poking through the clouds as an excuse for taking it easy. This was actually a life altering moment for me as it marked the start of what has now become an active kayak racing career (once I got back home) ... Then there was .... Dubsides spectacular demonstration of inuit rope moves ... Brian Shulz steam bending demonstration ....
GOOD FOOD: Bob Kelim pretty much did something of a religous trick by feeding the multitudes with plenty of fine barbequed salmon and some fresh pacific oysters which tasted mighty fine and made sense of why every body was jealously gaurding their oyster patches along puget Sound. Lunches were a healthy 'Al Fresco' affair and I secretly believe I ate most of what my Conference fees were worth.
MILK WARS: at one stage I was going to have a coffee and asked: "what is this 50/50 milk - 50% what? and 50% what else?" - the reply was "50% milk and 50% cream - it is what we put in our coffee". This was a shock to me because we mostly sell our milk in New Zealand by the pint. American milk comes in at least half gallon lots. Just imaging that half that container was pure cream was enough for me to have a cholesterol induced heart attack on the spot and immediately start drinking tea without milk for the rest of my stay in America.
And still there was: Good company .... curiously strong Midnight margaritas with the effervescent Montana lads ... Harvey Goldens replicas ... rudely 'gazzumping' Dick Mahler at the last second in the silent auction for a Harvey Golden Kayak drawning .... replica Inuit harpoons and otter darts ....Great kayaks: Baidarkas, retrieval and recovery kayaks, East Greenland, West Greenland, Baffin Island kayaks and then some more. I found plenty to do and everything was absolutely fascinating.
With the great variety of kayaks it was hard not to be impressed and very soon I could see a building programme coming on. I loved the Baidarkas from the Aluetian Islands and reckon they would perform really well in our open water off Wellington, New Zealands South coast.
The short retrieval kayaks looked pretty good too and I can imagine they would be a barrell of fun in the surf and probably would make great pool polo kayak training boats (if not perform well in 'battle')
Harvey Golden's replica kayak was too cute for words and its function was a mystery. But I bet it would make a great duck hunting boat. Having bought Cunninghams book I feel that I just have to make a roll optimised skin on frame to help my rolling along. Now that I have been so inspired it is just a matter of hunting down some wood.
$100 WARS - Before coming over to USA, I hadn't really thought about how much money I might need to bring along. $1000 US with the old credit card as back up seemed like a good start. When the bank asked me how I wanted that money I went for $500 cash and $500 Travellers cheques. They looked at me funny but I figured that I was just hedging my bets for contingencies.
The first $100 war was when I was mooching around a Food and Drugs store buying some supplies for my SSTIKS stay at Twanoh State Park - New Zealanders think that is funny - being able to buy [recreational] drugs from your Food AND Drug supermarkets [maybe that is why Americans call them 'convienience stores' hahahaha] - but then apparently Americans think that New Zealanders are pretty wild for selling 'pot' plants [= New Zealand for house plants] at our plant nurseries). The shop manager must have thought I was 'bad sort' because he asked if he could help me several times and seemed to be keeping a very close eye on me. My replies of "Nah, just looking" (which was exactly what I was doing: American supermarkets have about a zillion more brands of cereals and jams than we do back in New Zealand) weren't reassuring him at all.
When it came time to pay for my groceries I handed over one of my $100 US bills. The manager marked it with a felt tip. I said "Oi what did you just do" to which he replied "if it is yellow it is ok". I didn't say anything because he was edgy enough with my shopping experience, but if we did that to our money in New Zealand (along with piracy and treason) are the few things that we can still actually be hanged for. Plus the $100 US bill better had been good because I paid the bank back home in Kilbirnie, Wellington about $130 NZ for it (evils of exchange rates).
The second war was when I made the classic mistake and handed over a $1 US bill to Sasha for my SSTIKS fees instead of the $100 that I should have for the tee shirt, mitt class and more food than I needed (OK, I was distracted at the time and New Zealand dollars notes are all colour coded while all $US bills looked pretty much the same to me - it was an honest mistake but certainly not a great way to make friends and influence people). Not surprisingly, Sasha was not amused and thought I was some kind of 'petty crook'. I wasn't entirely convinced that Sasha hadn't palmed my $100 US bill while I wasn't looking and was waving the incriminating $1 US bill as a possible lure for 'doubling her money'. After a brief Mexican stand off I realised my mistake and appologised ... but you have to see the funny side of it all.
HOME AWAY FROM HOME: My whole trip didn't cost very much mostly because my accomodation was tenting at the State Parks and Washington Water Trail Association sites WWTA. I have a fairly good alpine tent that I don't use enough, it was comfortable and made me feel like a gypsy. The State Parks are fairly basic, but have ablution blocks with showers (that require a couple of 'quarters') and I was comfortable enough. Waking up to the dawn chorus in a tent in these parts was ... well priceless.
WORLD FAMOUS IN TWANOH: A newspaper article appeared in the local newspaper, the Kitsap Sun (now try saying that after a few whiskeys). I was impressed at how quickly the article had come out and as I looked at the pictures that came with the article, I realised .... hey THAT'S ME!!! ... well at least the back of me. Now I really can claim that I am world famous.
LAST MAN STANDING .... well not quite
All too soon it was Sunday afternoon and the SSTIKS conference was over and most people had gone home ... except me ... but it was all part of my cunning plan to spend some time kayak cruising through Puget Sound after the conference and what better place to start my adventure than from Twanoh State Park? Having the place to myself wasn't all bad and gave me time to reflect upon the SSTIKS experience.
But after the hustle and bustle of Twanoh Park full of exhuberent kayakers, the forest took on a special quiet beauty of its own:
Sooooo ......
I had met a whole bunch of friendly people who shared the same interest as me
My digital 'spy-cam' had been running hot recording the infinate variety of ways people had built their skin on frames
I was inspired to make a 'skin on frame' kayak myself - well actually I can see myself building at least three in the fullness of time.
I had learn't how to sew and work neoprene and had a pair of neoprene paddling mits to show for my lessons
My greenland paddling technique had been refined nicely from the paddle strokes class
Paul LaLonde had taken some time to coach me on my balance braces, the foundation of the 'back finishing' rolls (after I had accidentally capsized and rolled back up in the middle of the paddle strokes class). So I went from the half-assed balance brace - ok the water was cold at the start of SSTIKS to something like what I was doing later in Fiordland New Zealand
I observed and later tried out (on unsuspecting victims) the 'hand of god' rescue manouvre where a 'pretend unconcious' capsized kayaker can be righted using your 'capsizing weight' to lever the victim upright
I saw Pavia Lumholt empty a bulkhead-less Skin on Frame kayak at sea by lifting it by the cockpit and using his leaned weight to progressively allow the water to drain out. Up until seeing that done, I figured a flooded bulkhead-less kayak was pretty much a hopeless case.
At rolling class I got to practice the inuit or 'H' rescue where you paddle along side the capsized kayak, put your Greenland paddle on the upturned hull and guide the victims hand to the loom, where they can use it to right themselves.
I learn't that while I had a bomb proof roll of my own, I was pulling my head up too early and that I should make more use of the 'free floatation' of my body in the water.
All these lessons and skills have helped me become a better kayaker and gave me a boost in helping teach other people to roll at the local Kupe club pool sessions. So unquestionably, SSTIKS was a fantastic experience for me and I can see myself going back sometime soon.