How to avoid camera shake

A great photographic opportunity may present itself; a beautiful sunset, dramatic light hitting a cathedral or a great deluge. But when the photo is uploaded onto the computer, the image turns out blurred due to camera shake. How can the photographer get rid of camera shake?

Causes of Camera Shake

Film Speeds and Graininess

Camera shake is more likely when using certain camera setting and lenses. Basically, during the period the shutter is open, the camera is not motionless. This is due to any unsteadiness of the photographer’s part or environmental factors, such as a sudden gust. The photographer’s motions are evident in the photograph where objects exhibit blurred outlines.

Sharp Pictures with Long Shutter Speeds

If the shutter speed is anything less than 1/60th of a second, the image is in danger of getting camera shake. Of course, high shutter speeds will prevent this from happening, as will using a flash. But some people have a steadier hand than others and therefore the critical shutter speed will differ. Some beginners feel the compulsion to press hard on the shutter and then release abruptly. This is certain to cause camera shake at the critical shutter speed.

Photographing Objects in Poor Light

In situations when you want to shoot in poor light without a flash, squeeze the shutter release gently. The shutter will open and close of its own accord, regardless of the manner in which the shutter release is pressed. Hold the breath and gain a steady hand before the shoot. This practice should reduce a blurry photograph.

Taking Photos with Slow Shutter Speeds

It is hard to tell of a photo exhibits camera shake on the LCD screen, until it can be enlarged on the computer screen. This is why I would take several shots in one go. This will increase the chances of producing a good photo on the day. If the light is particularly poor and you don’t wish to use a flash, you can always alter the camera’s ISO setting.

Film speeds are measured in ISO (international standards organizations) which denotes the CCD’s sensitivity to light. (The CCD – charge coupled device – by the way is the digital equivalent to the old 35mm film). 100ISO is the camera’s default, as it describes a pretty standard light setting. Poor light will require a camera setting of a higher speed, such as 200ISO, 400ISO or higher. As the CCD is more light-sensitive on these settings, a faster shutter speed can be used, which (as mentioned before) should eradicate camera shake.

Problems with Fast Film Speed

However, increasing the ISO will mean the image will appear grainier. A setting of beyond 800ISO will cause more ‘image noise’ where unwanted colour flecks can be seen over expanses of one colour or shadowed areas. This is due to the camera ‘amplifying’ the light signal to the pixels, creating a fuzzy, blizzard effect. For this reason, I would use the slowest ISO setting possible.

Using the Camera Tripod

Another factor that will increase camera shake is shooting through a telephoto lens. A lens in excess of 400mm will magnify the image so that any movement on the photographer’s part will also be magnified. Holding a weighty lens can also be more difficult to keep steady during the shoot. Combined with using a slow shutter speed and slow film, will make the use of a tripod necessary.Ridding Camera Shake

A tripod will not always be at hand, in such cases, any stable surface will have to do, but can be awkward if the camera’s angle needs to be fine-tuned. I have used books, magazines or any object at hand to achieve the view I wanted through the LCD screen. Mounting the camera on a tripod or stable surface will eradicate camera shake so long as the shutter released is depressed gently. A slow shutter speed can then be used without a flash, even in poor light and with a telephoto lens.