Alpine Klettersteig

Klettersteig / Via Ferrata of Alpine Switzerland 

This a compendium of routes in Switzerland, with some comments and a personal attempt at a rating (1-5 stars) :

• * (one star) = maybe worth a trip if you are in the vicinity,

• *** (three stars) = worth making a day excursion for,

• ***** (five stars) = worth making the centrepiece of a holiday.

See also the Swiss Via Ferrata Guide.  If the links below don't work (the web pages for Swiss tourist destinations are a moving target) I suggest doing an Internet search on the name of the route.  New routes seem to appear every year so this is far from being a comprehensive list.

A word of caution about tyroliennes (zip wires)!  

Without some means of braking, such as a Sticht plate on the pull-back cord, it is possible to get dangerously out of control (going too fast) even with an apparently gentle incline.  I have found this to my own cost (bruised pride) in the Gornerschlucht in Zermatt, and in 2010 there was a fatal accident for an unsupervised party in the "Gorge Alpine" in Saas Fee.  I would recommend treating a tyrolienne / zip wire with the same care as you would a rebelay in SRT.  The first thing you should do on reaching such an obstacle is to clip a cow's tail into a safety point such as a permanent anchor; and then only after setting up the pulley and braking device, AND checking the braking device is going to work, unclip the cow's tail from the safety point.

Bernese Oberland (West to East)

Les Diablerets

Via Ferrata de la Cascade (**) – a fairly mundane traverse type of via ferrata which ends up next to a big waterfall (Cascade du Dar) where there may or may not be a double tyrolienne.  Can be reached from the Col du Pillon or by a somewhat longer walk up the side of the Dar from Les Diablerets.

Via Ferrata da la Tête au Chamois (du Rocher Jaune) – high above the Col du Pillon, not yet visited but appears much more substantial than the above.

Kandertal and Leukerbad

Kandersteg-Allmenalp (*****) – probably the finest via ferrata in the alps, an exhilarating mixed 350m high route up the side of a major waterfall near the head of the Kandertal, return by Allmenalp cable car.  Contains a variant about 3/4 way up (see diagram), either a 50m tyrolienne or a 3-wire 'Nepal' bridge - the perfect excuse to do the route twice!  Note the 110m tyrolienne in the diagram is intended for guided parties only.

Daubenhorn (***) (Leukerbad) – climbs the imposing cliffs that loom over Leukerbad, and advertised as the longest via ferrata in the alps but the problem is that it is too long to be truly enjoyable!  Some points to note are (1) the full route is a long excursion (1000m ascent) that ends on the top of a mountain so treat with respect and wait for a favourable weather forecast, (2) pay attention to the descent route from the summit (take a map and compass at least!) (3) I can testify the midpoint escape is pretty unpleasant in bad weather.  Can be done as a day trip from Kandersteg: take the early morning (06:42) train to Brig, then a connection on the main line back to Leuk, then a bus up to Leukerbad (the bus starts from Leuk rail station).  From here you can either hike up to the start of the via ferrata or take the Gemmi cable car and hike down to the start.  From the Daubenhorn summit, make the normal descent as far as the Gemmi pass then head north towards Sunnbüel and back to Kandersteg (2-3 hours from Gemmi).

Jungfrau region

Mürren-Gimmelwald (****) – a peculiarity this one, as it descends 300m from Mürren to the Gimmelwald cable car station.  Somewhat gimmicky but nevertheless very spectacular.  Ends with a tremendous 80m long 'Nepal' suspension bridge over a big waterfall perhaps 750m above Stechelberg.  After rain, the Mürrenbach waterfall can infringe on the 3-wire bridge – expect to get wet!

Eiger-Rotstock (**) – climbs a buttress to enter a gully on the western fringe of the Eiger north face, to finish on the minor summit of the Rotstock (2663m).  Not terribly hard and in some ways the descent is more difficult – picking a route down the unprotected lower slabs of the Eiger west ridge back to the Eigergletscher station.  Nevertheless the Rotstock is an impressive place to have a picnic.

Schwarzhorn (***) – the Schwarzhorn (2928m) is an exceptional viewpoint looking across the Lütschinental into the northern ramparts of the Bernese Oberland.  This route adds a bit more interest to an ascent.  The fixed aids are really only necessary on the rock 'step' up to the west summit ridge after which they are little more than hand rails.  Descend by one of the standard hiking trails. 

Ostegg – not yet visited but basically seems to be the access to the Ostegg hut for the Mittellegi ridge on the Eiger.

Engelberg

Engelberg has set itself up as something of a Klettersteig El Dorado, with 4-5 good routes within easy reach:   

Brunnistöckli / Zittergrat (**) – very short but enjoyable routes above the Brunnihütte, probably best combined with a hike or continuation up the Rigidalstock. 

Rigidalstock – ascends the Rigdalstock (2593m) and can be treated as a continuation of the above, but personally not yet visited.

Fürenwand (****) – a lengthy (750m) ascent of a major wall at the head of the Engelberg valley, with return possible by Fürenalp cable car.  Well worth doing and with almost unbelievable exposure in the top section.  Only bettered for interest by the Kandersteg-Allmenalp route.  

Graustock (***) – a direct way up the Graustock (2661m) from the Jochpass, where the major difficulty is an 80m rock step (see figure).  Excellent views from the summit.  The descent route is not that well marked and in poor visibility could be very tricky to follow.

Tällistock – still further west than the Graustock, and above Engstlenalp, this is the latest in the Engelberg region, but personally not yet visited.

Pennine chain (West to East)

Zermatt

Schweifine (**) - a rather nondescript collection of route options (A-C) on the broken crags northwest of Zermatt.

Gornerschlucht (***) - an interesting and varied gorge descent to the south of Zermatt.  Take care on tyroliennes (see note at start).  Can be continued to join up with the Gornerschlucht gorge wooden walkway using a 20m rope to pull through on a 10m pitch (I'm not sure whether this continuation is strictly permitted though!).

Riffelhorn (***) - not a via ferrata as such but an attractive little peak (2927m) below the Gornergrat and a popular playground for alpine mountaineering practice.  The summit can be reached as an exposed scramble up the east ridge, turning the rock step(s) to the right (north).  On descent the rock step(s) can be abseiled on a doubled rope from pull through anchors.  

Saastal (Saas Fee etc)

Jägihorn (*****) - near the Weissmeis on the eastern side of the Sasstal, and probably the finest of the high mountain type of via ferrata.  Varied and maintaining interest throughout.  Becomes a challenging vertical hair-raiser on spartan holds after an exposed 3-wire bridge, before reaching the summit at 3206m.  Descent is well marked.

Mittaghorn (***) - protected ridge climb up a major peak, the Mittaghorn (3143m), overlooking Saas Fee.  Much of the time the gear seems unnecessary.  Descent is tough on knees!

Eastern Switzerland

St Moritz and Pontresina

Klettersteig La Resgia (***) - fairly new and entertaining via ferrata incorporates various novel features as it climbs the side of a waterfall just to the east of Pontresina.  Descent is by a good footpath.

Piz Güglia (Piz Julier) (***) - not a via ferrata as such (ie needs no gear) but a good excursion up a prominent mountain, the Piz Güglia (3380m), above St Moritz.  Climb up to the Fuorcla Albana pass and turn right to ascend the summit ridge with occasional fixed wires.  Descent is by the route of ascent.

Copyright © (2012) Patrick B Warren.  Let me know if you find any errors or changes & I will update things.