Wobbly Mirror Fix

as applies to the sideview mirrors on the Classic Saab 900 (1979-1993&1994conv)

Classic 900s are prone to sideview mirror wobble. This can be caused by the glass coming loose and requiring re-gluing, or more often by an internal metal piece which becomes twisted due to years of spring tension. I just tried out the fix from the C900 BB on Saabnet, and took photos along the way. Hope this is useful for someone, someday!


C-Clamp & blocks (or Vise), Crescent Wrench (aka Adjustable Spanner if you're across the pond), Phillips head screwdriver, small flat head screw driver (for prying), a punch (or nailset), finishing nail, hammer, drill with ~1/4" bit, 4 new smallish wood screws, and your safety glasses, of course:

Find the oval hole on the bottom of your mirror:

Look into the oval hole, adjust the mirror so that you can see the grooved light-colored plastic ribs:

Using your small flat head screwdriver, pry the ribs through the oval hole - you're rotating a plastic locking mechanism. Looking at the mirror, the mechanism should turn counterclockwise (thanks Landjet!) to unlock the mirror for removal.

Keep rotating until you can remove the mirror - you'll need to remove the defrost wires at this point, if you have them:

Examine the rotating plastic mechanism - note the alignment points in the "notches" then set the glass aside for now:

Next, drill out the two outermost plastic rivets - they kind of melt around your drill bit. Drill just enough to remove the rivet head:

Here's what the rivet looks like after drilling:

Remove the four screws which hold the motor assembly to the mirror housing, and scootch the motor assembly to the side so you can easily drill out the other two plastic rivets:

Pull off the rubber grommit-thingy at the bulkhead:

Then pry out the cool plastic 90 Degree bend-thing-a-ma-jig:

Pull it open and remove:

Pull the motor assembly while feeding the wire harness through the bulkhead - it will not fit under the cast "T" piece:

Grip the metal frame, and squeeze it against the edge of the mirror housing, like one of those grip-strengthening gadgets. This will allow you clearance to lift the metal frame tab out of the hole in the housing:

Once the metal frame is loose, you'll be able to pull the wire harness through, and remove the springs:

View of everything apart (so far!):

Next, balance the hinge joint on a block, and tap out the pin which holds the joint to the "bulkhead" piece:

After you've removed the infamous cast "T" piece, examine it to see which way it is distorted. The top section is twisted to the right in the below view. We're going to straighten it up:

I clamped the cast "T" piece between two blocks, but you can use a vise if you have one:

I used the crescent wrench to gently twist the cast "T" piece back into being straight. Don't overdo it, the cast "T" piece is brittle and easy to break:

Here's the cast "T" piece after straightening:

Next, push the remainder of the plastic rivets into the holes, using a finishing nail and hammer:

Here's how the housing should look, ready for reassembly. Wash it if you care to:

To reassemble, get the pin started first:

Then, balance the cast "T", the mirror housing, and the "bulkhead" piece, and tap the pin down until it reaches through everything:

At this point, feed the wire harness through the metal frame, under the cast "T" piece and through the bulkhead:

Attach the two springs between the metal frame and the cast "T" piece:

Using the same gripping technique, fit the metal frame tab into the hole in the mirror housing:

Then press the metal frame down, wiggling as necessary to get it to line up with the four holes where the plastic rivets went. Screw it down with your wood screws, then feed the defrost wires under the metal frame:

Attach those defrost wires to the mirror - the power connection is short, and a little tricky:

Last, place the mirror back into position on the motor assembly, adjust it so that you can see the plastic ribs through the oval hole, and rotate the ribs clockwise as you're facing the mirror to lock it. Put the 90-degree piece back on the harness, stuff it back in the hole, cap it with the rubber grommet, then put it back on your car and you're done! No more wobble!

Let me know if you found this helpful!