chasingsummerp.032
Chasing Summer p.032
Report initially published in the Adventure Rider web site. For more interaction and comments check it out here
March 28 - Puerto Montt to Puerto Aisen - 420 km
Interactive map: http://www.gpsxchange.com/phpBB2/download2.php?id=1945
Our Ferry left at 9 pm last night. There are mostly trucks on the boat and being to last ones to get in we were worried that there would be any space available. The boat was 101% full... better make reservations in advance! Then it's all about making sure that the bikes are secured and strapped correctly.
The ferry company we choose was twice cheaper than the other one which might explain why the accommodations and comfort are so limited. The TV (and lightning) stayed on and aloud way too long for our taste. One of the many times I woke up on my seat I realize that today is my Birthday and it's not the best environment yet.
However, early morning the view from the boat becomes very exciting!
The terrain seems rugged, with high and sharp mountains. This is after all our 'official' entry in Patagonia!
YES, this looks like a much better place for my Birthday!
On the map Chaiten appears to be one of the ‘biggest’ city in the Chilean Patagonia...
In reality, it's a very small town and we even have a hard time to find any place open for breakfast even if it’s already past 9 AM. We shouldn't be surprised I suppose since (despite the government effort) this huge region has only 95,000 habitants - less than 1 per square km!
Despite our lack of sleep, we don't feel the fatigue with such a beautiful environment! It's cold but we really enjoy the first section of the road, with smooth pavement and just enough curves to be fun while letting us admire the scenery.
We're lowering the tires pressure a bit since the road is now unpaved and should stay that way for most of Chile.
We see many lakes on the way and once again the so-called 'lakes region' appears really bland compare to this region.
The road is made of gravel, quite deep in some sections. It's not difficult per say but the road has a lot of camber and it’s difficult to ride on the sides of it when passing for example. The habitat is really scarce, mostly farms raising cattle (cows and a bit of sheep).
Despite offering high snow capped mountain views, the road is winding it’s way through the mountains in a sort of narrow valley, staying at low elevation.
The two plants we see everywhere along the road are this one, with huge leaves (I placed my glove for perspective). What's strange is that I only remember seeing it in the mountains of Costa Rica...
The second one is this red flower (its name is escaping me right now even though I have the same in my garden!)
I realize that I was really missing this kind of scenery...
We continue to enjoy a fantastic weather and despite the snow more and more present the temperature is agreeable
Yes, it was indeed a fantastic first day in Patagonia, on the beautiful Carretera Austral. Only Puerto Aisen is disappointing: we were looking for a fjord but the river brought so many sediments that now the harbor has been brought 14 km further. Although the river is still crossing the town there is no waterfront per say and not much charm either.
We still manage to celebrate my birthday in style
March 29 - Puerto Aisen to Chile Chico - 470 km
Interactive maps: http://www.gpsxchange.com/phpBB2/download2.php?id=1946
I like Patagonia very much (at least on the Chilean side) and the first hour this morning is awesome. It's very cold but the fog patches in the sunrise are spectacular! I'm too cold I guess to take pictures but here is one from Teryk:
Andy is separating from us... for now!
We knew that riding the whole trip together would be difficult because of the difference in pace and available time for each of us. Our riding group is decidedly with variable geometry...
The second hour is not as good since we are completely in the fog/clouds but finally the sun comes back and we have a beautiful blue sky until the end of the day.
We're enjoying again the lighting brought by traveling South on the southern hemisphere: basically, the sun is almost on your back, the entire day...
The road definitively leaves the coast now and we're getting very close to Argentina and of course, the Andes.
It seems that the only big patch of pavement is around Coyhaique and now the road turns to dirt again.
The sign is right, it's worth a picture
What's great is that the scenery is changing all the time. Here, the so characteristic color of melted glacier.
I realize that I don't 'write' as much as some other times. I guess it's because I'm late and the memory is now too distant or probably because I experienced less 'cultural aspects' lately. Luckily, in this region, the pictures can do the talking for me
My bike doesn't want to start after a short break. But now I know what to look for. We check that it is indeed the fuel pump that's finally dead. I guess that I should have been working on my bike like everyone else that other morning in Chiloe
. I'm always optimist and I was hoping it would work until the end of the trip. I'm prepared though and thanks to Dirk I have a new pump with me so it doesn't take too long to swap them.
Back on the road we finally reach the north tip of the Lake General Carrera.
Mile after mile, we realize that this not an ordinary lake...
It’s indeed a huge lake, the biggest in Chile and the 2nd in SA after the Lake Titicaca. That said a huge lake could be a 'small sea' with just water as far as the eyes can see. This one is much more exciting with the water showing a mix of Emerald and deep blue and with many islands of all sizes popping out of it.
We closely follow the west shore for more than 80 km and we stop very often to admire it
I believe that this is the Carerra bridge, just north of El Maiten crossing.
The views on the lake from the bridge are splendid!
Then we head East to follow the South shore. We're happy to find gas in the Puerto Guadal village. We had seen nothing since Coyhaique and almost no traffic either. With 100 km more of shoreline and even if the light was not as great there was no lack of beautiful sceneries so be prepared for many more lake pictures
You can barely see a black dot on the road for Dirk passing by...
But I think that there is enough diverse sceneries around this lake to keep you entertained...
Again, a small dot, this time for Teryk. But you know how he looks by now, right?
Well, there was no view on the lake but it was still a nice spot for a break...
But this one was not by choice
That gives me time to take a pic of that crazy load of 3 tires!
I can't wait to change my rear tire (that's pretty bald by now) and unload one of them. It might be too late for tonight though: between the fuel pump and this flat it's pretty late already. But there is something great about that: Andy caught up with us just before we were ready to continue.
Just a few more pictured of this lake, certainly the most extraordinary I’ve ever seen!
Although considered a 'highlight' of the region the road that we're on since Puerto Guadal is described by Lonely Planet as "It is a scary and stunning road trip of abrupt curves, blind corners, loose gravel, steep inclines high above the lake and no guardrails. Drive very slowly; in some places the roadway is barely wide enough for a single vehicle.'
Luckily we did not read that before hand so we're able to just enjoy that fun and scenic road
.
