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Chasing Summer p.026
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12th Jan - Huallanca to Chacas
Interactive Map: http://www.gpsxchange.com/phpBB2/download2.php?id=1642
One of the reasons I'm in this area is that I've read about the beautiful Huraz surroundings. What attracted me the most is the Cordillera Blanca, about 20km by 180km, the highest mountain range in the world outside of the Himalayas with razor-sharp ridges, high summit and glaciers. It includes more than 50 peaks of 5700m or higher (22 above 6000m) vs. 3 for North America and none in Europe.
It's a trek paradise but it also offers several dirt roads going over spectacular passes. The plan is to do almost a loop today around the Mount Huascaran (6770m - 22,200 ft) including the 2 most impressive dirt roads: from Yungay to Yanama and then from Chacas to Caruaz via the Punta Olimpica pass.
But first let's leave as early (7:30 AM) as possible from that terrible hotel and head south towards the Canyon del Pato, still along the Rio Santa. Ooops don't forget taking some gas: it's only 84 octane but that will have to do. My hitch-hiker is on the left...
The dirt road follows a much narrower gorge (down to 15m at the closest) with depths up to 1000m!
Not easy for photos to show such extremes, especially in the low light of the early morning. Oh, the road also goes through 35 tunnels, hand-cut through solid stone.
I then pass Caraz to finally stop at Yungay for a quick breakfast and to buy some food for the mountain road. Yungay doesn't look good (it was destroyed by a mud flood) but offers some spectacular views.
A local...
I'm very excited because the weather is gorgeous even if there are a few clouds on top of the mountains. The dirt road is in reasonably good shape and the cliffs are impressive!
Yesterday in 'Death Valley' today in Yosemite
The road climbed from Yungay at 2500m to the Lagunas de Llanganuco, two brilliant turquoise (glacier-fed) alpine lakes, at nearly 4,000m (13,120 ft.) above sea level...
Turquoise of the water bright white of the snow: it's superb!
The road becomes a bit rougher and climbs even more steeply...
... offering great views on glaciers and snowed peaks
... and on the lagunas way down there
First time I see a rainbow so close to the ground...
I finally reach the pass at 4770m, my new record on a bike. The problem is that on the other side it's cloudy/foggy/rainy and with very limited visibility. Too bad, when I can see something it seems that there are similarities with El Cajas NP.
I reach Yanama where I ask for directions.
All tell me that there are 2 roads for Chacas and they point to 2 opposite directions. One is more direct and the other is in better shape. I try to find the most direct but it's really confusing. To give you an idea that's the 'main' road I'm following...
After a while I give up and go the other way towards San Luis. The road is a bit rough but would be really fun with a better weather.
It's incredibly convoluted though which should be visible on the GPS tracks. Arriving in a small village I realize that my rear tire has a puncture again
. I'm the attraction in town for a while...
... and then continues towards Chacas, realizing that it would be too late now to cross the mountains from Chacas to Caruaz. The rain gets heavier and I fall another time on some clayish downhill. Hey, that's not fair
, that one was yellow and I had no way to tell ahead.
It's only 4 PM when I arrive at Chacas but I'm dead, cold and beaten. I will definitely stop here. It's small but very beautiful...
There are beautiful carved wooden balconies everywhere.
It's very quiet too: it seems that no on has a car here or even a motorcycle.
It makes sense: you don't need a vehicle for the village itself and going anywhere else requires driving for hours in muddy dirt roads. It's much better to take the bus for those very few times.
13th Jan - Chacas to Huallanca
Interactive Map: http://www.gpsxchange.com/phpBB2/download2.php?id=1643
(I'm writing those words from under the covers of my bed wearing ALL my warm clothes. Why don't they never have a heater in Peru?!? You'll understand later why I'm so cold…)
I went to sleep with the sound of the rain and this morning I'm hearing the same. Sure I could get up and ride in the rain again but the whole reason of doing this loop is to SEE the spectacular scenery which will not happen with the rain. The owner of the hostal says that the rain will calm down soon so I wait a bit...
For breakfast I choose a caldo (soup) and it's a good one with pasta, potatoes, chicken and a hard boiled egg with the shell still on
. I also buy some bred and pastries for the road over the mountain. At 10 AM the rains stops so I get ready and leave Chacas under a nice sun.
The road is still wet of course and the potholes filled with water. I re-enter the Huascarán NP and it's a nice ride with great views on glaciers and waterfalls.
Even if it's cloudy, the visibility is decent.
The road becomes harder and steeper...
I end up in the wet clouds...
My better half thinks that I'm not totally satisfied about a trip unless I can touch the snow. She might be right
! Hello Darling .
I'm not at the pass yet though and I hope that there will not be too much snow on the road
. Finally I reach the Punta Olimpica pass at 4890m of elevation, the new riding record for me.
The snow makes everything spectacular but, going down the other side, I'm happy to leave the clouds' layer.
Going down the road is pretty bad and even a bit challenging at times. But still beautiful.
Isn't that valley spectacular?!?
And what about the road that leads to it
Down in the valley...
After the small Indian village of Shilla I reach Carhuaz with a nice and warm weather. I arrive too late for the Sunday market but there is some sort of religious procession going on.
I take the road south towards Huaraz. Huaraz is the biggest city of the area (90,000 h) and the center of the trekking tourist activity. Entirely destroyed by an earthquake in 1970 the new town is totally unattractive to stay and besides it's only 2:30 PM... Huaraz is a bit at the crossing of the roads for me: I want to go towards Cuzco and choose not to go via the coastal road and Lima. That leaves the mountains option with some dirt roads and high passes before to be able to join a paved road on the East, at Huanuco.
Not too sure what to do for tonight I continue on my way, a good part of it under the rain. At Pachacoto I take a dirt road going east. Before to do so I check the time (it's past 3 PM), the dark clouds, the map… and I'm not sure that this is a great idea... But there was no place to stay in the last towns I've passed and I haven't covered much ground lately and need to do so. Besides there is on the map a pueblo called Carpa where I could probably stop if needed.
The road is rough and it's hard to see with the rain and the fogged visor. It is beautiful though. It's funny that our eyes can appreciate the beauty in tough conditions while a camera gets no chance. Every time there is a pause in the rain I try to snap a shot or two.
I get to the entrance of (again) the Huascarán NP and realize that 'Carpa' is not a pueblo but just the couple of houses at the entrance of the Park
. I ask the guard how far is the next town with a hotel and his answer is Huallanca that, he estimates, is 3 hours away with a bike like mine. That would mean arriving at 6:30 PM when there is still some daylight… let's go!
Close to the entrance I see those shepherds' houses...
The guy must not see a lot of people and come to have a little chat with me
The scenery is still spectacular...
... but the weather gets worst with rain, wind and cold. I was very intrigued by this bizarre plant and got a closer look (rainy pic)
My pace is slow and I watch the elevation on the GPS gets higher and higher. At this point I'm checking in my head what I have available: a 3-seasons tent, good sleeping bag, safety blanket, air mattress, stove, water purifier, frozen-dry food… I should be good. I'm also half considering squatting one of those Indian shepherds' shelters I see once in a while.
There is now snow around and I'm getting cold and a bit wet too
.
At +4800m I finally reach the pass and as soon as the road goes down a little I do feel better (power of the brain
). It stays up and down around 4600m and then to my dismay it starts going up again
! Nooooo!
4700m, 4800m… I plainly realize that it might have been a mistake going into that road late in the day and with this weather. A few degrees less and there would be heavy snow on the road or I could get one of my usual punctures… I should have been more cautious.
The rain becomes melted snow or hail, I'm not sure. But there is some sticking on the road now. At every turn, at every 'pass' I hope to see an 'exit': the road going down for good. I am now in a universe of bright black and white: wet dark rocks and snow.
That's when I see something that my brain takes some time to process… Yes, there is a couple on Indians on horses, wearing hats and very large ponchos also covering their legs. Maybe because of the water covering them but they form an entirely black silhouette. They're not even on the road, crossing to I don't know where. Their horses pull a travois which I had only seen with North American Indians but didn't imagine existed in SA too. When we get closer we both slow down and stare at each other in disbelief. Then, after a head salute we depart. Unreal
I'm freezing now. At close to 4900m the rain/snow calms down a bit and I stop to put my electric vest, baklava and waterproof cover on my gloves (even if they are soaked by now). I realize that I'm badly shivering and I eat as fast as I can a small bread. The rains resumes and I do too. The road goes down and with the additional gear on I feel a bit better but still can't see much. I take the opportunity to take a shot.
Suddenly I see 'green' meaning what's below the snow line and I feel so relieved!
Huallanca is still far away but things look much better now. Some time after, another good surprise: I reach a paved road! On the GPS it shows it much further but I'm not going to complain!
Tired, I miss the bifurcation for Huallanca and it takes me 15 km to realize my mistake. At 6 PM I'm finally there. I look for an hotel but decline the first one: not hot water. I NEED a hot shower right now! The 2 nd one is fine and if the shower helps I still can't get warm. That's why that after a quick tour of the town and a warm dinner I'm already in my bed.
After crossing the Huascarán NP three times, I highly recommend visiting it…in the dry season!
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