Landmarks
Fallen sign post to Hut of Shadows sculpture, Lochmaddy, North Uist.
Cross-roads:
In this chapter, Isobel reflects on an early journey she walked from Castlebay to the Butt of Lewis. She did write about this walk and it was published many years later in the National Geographic magazine. If you would like to follow in her footsteps, do try and obtain a copy of the article from either the National Library of Scotland or an old copy of the magazine.
Meanwhile, the Visit Outer Hebrides website has an article on Vatersay to the Butt of Lewis. Interestingly, walkers are guided to Stornoway and cyclists are directed further on to the Butt.
On the ferry to the Outer Hebrides
The Islands in War-Time:
This chapter was written in Colonsay in 1918. Although we only know this from Isobel's signature at the foot of the piece, she doesn't actually name the island in the text. By her description of the church service, I think she is referring to the church at Scalasaig. If this was the church, the minister would have been Kenneth MacLeod who wrote 'The Road to the Isles'.
In the piece, Isobel says "the inhabitants are met from all parts of the parish, including those from the neighbouring island, which is only reached on foot or horse at low tide, and whose inmates must wait for some hours after the service is over before the sea will allow them to return." This will be the island of Oransay and there is a nice podcast about the journey on the Wild for Scotland web site.
Skye
Over the Sea to Skye: (on meeting a fairy)
This is mainly a recollection of an event prior to Isobel sailing for Skye.
There is no longer a ferry from Scarinish on Tiree to Talisker on Skye, so other routes have to be considered and of course, there is now the Skye bridge which was not an option for Isobel though I doubt she would have taken that route if it had been.
Isobel writes of meeting a 'fairy', a young child called Flora before she sails from Oban. historically known as the Gateway to the Isles. She meets Flora on the Dunollie - Ganavan Road. An interesting road going north from Oban which leads to Dunollie Castle and an old lighthouse, then further on to Ganavan sands which has lovely views of Mull, Lismore and Morven.
There is also mention of two fairy bridges and a fairy flag at Dunvegan on Skye.
I can only find mention of one bridge which is here:
https://canmore.org.uk/site/99260/dunvegan-skye-fairy-bridge
The fairy flag and its many stories are told here:
A Victorian fountain in Comrie, Perthshire
A Pilgrimage to Ardchattan
Isobel starts the pilgrimage at Port Appin. The first thing of interest she comes across is the Gaelic well, Tober Donachadh, which is on the eastern side of Glaceriscka Bay but the Appin Historical Society tell me the cup is no longer present. Isobel relates an interesting story attached to the well which I can find no other details on.
The next thing she mentions is the ferryman at Shian (fairy hill). This ferry ran another 22 years after Isobel's visit but just like the fairies, the ferry has also long gone.
Isobel then goes through Benderloch and Achnashee, though I can find no record of Achnashee on modern maps. Isobel was always meticulous with her names and often if they appeared mis-spelt, only on checking further would I discover an old map or book with her spelling, so I don't think Achnashee is wrong. It has probably disappeared like Duncan's cup and been either renamed or thought not to be worth marking on maps.
For the modern pilgrim, a new route would have to be found to Archattan Priory but at least there is plenty of information about the Celtic stones that Isobel sadly failed to see.
Looking South East from the top of Cairngorm.
The Corrieyairack Pass
This is one of the earliest walks in the book.
Isobel doesn't mention who 'we' are on this walk but the date suggests that she walked with her sister, Hilda and perhaps other family members.
Walk Highlands have good information on this walk.
By January 1915, the Drumgask Inn where Isobel began this walk was already closed. Its closure in mentioned in The Cairngorm Journal (44).
The Flemish bell at Kettins churchyard.
A Stroll to John o’ Groats (1952)
Once again, we would have to take a different route to Isobel as the ferry (the first train ferry in the world) across the Firth of Forth no longer sails.
She takes us to the relatively unknown church in Burntisland:
"It is the only church in Scotland where one may see, almost intact, the signs of the medieval Town Guilds painted upon the panels of the pews they occupied. The mariners formed the Pryme Gilt (Prime Guild) and their sailor’s gallery is of special interest to geographers for it shows compasses and old-time navigating instruments – cross-staff and astrolabe – used in the tenth century, as well as the later Davis’s quadrant just coming into use around the time the church was built in 1592."
Isobel goes on to share stories about Falkland Palace, the poet, Michael Bruce and the escape of Mary Queen of Scots from Loch Leven and meeting the Adam Family at Blairadam (now a B&B).
Her walk includes a bus trip via Perth to Inchture and then she mentions Macbeth as she crosses the Sidlaws. She then enters the village of Kettins:
"The letter he cherishes most is from Antwerp, concerning the ancient bell of the church which now stands in the churchyard. It bears a curious Flemish inscription, which translated tells, ‘Maria Troon is my name. Mr. Hans Popenruyder gave me. A.D. 1519’ ."
The carved stones in Meigle are fascinating,. Isobel found them "cold and sinister".
Onwards to the land of Peter Pan. Kirriemuir and Alyth featured in my early life and my second son was born when I lived in a cottage near Alyth, so I found this part of the walk particularly interesting. Here on the Art UK website, we see items held by the National Trust for Scotland at J.M. Barrie's birthplace.
The cottage Percy Topliss hid in and pointed out to Isobel by the truck driver
"The rain thundered on its tin roof. At last the storm abated, and another driver going that way lifted me to Tomintoul, pointing out the sights as we rattled along. These included ‘Topliss the Murderer’s Hut’. I had almost forgotten the Topliss sensation of pre-war days when this gangster, fresh from the scene of his crime in England, found his way to this quiet neighbourhood and secured work on a farm. The hut into which he barricaded himself and defied the police for several days, shooting one of his would-be captors, looked a peaceful little place now, with a fisherman in oilskins plying his rod hopefully in the burn nearby"
I visited the 'hut' myself on a drive to Braemar and my son took the photo.