Beginnings 7

HALF WAY UP THE steep eastern side of the Rodway Range is Tarn Shelf. A comparatively flat area about three kilometres long, it contains a chain of beautiful tarns filled with crystal-clear mountain water. Although not in the 'easy stroll' class, the half-day walk along the shelf to Twisted Tarn is one of Mt Field's real joys.

The pleasure of Mt Field is that, in a comparatively small area, are concen­trated examples of almost all types of Tasmania's habitats. The 'coastal' is the only major omission. Starting at Russell Falls and travelling along the road to Lake Dobson and then onto the highlands, one passes each of them laid out in an orderly sequence such as might be found in a museum display. Above the more open, mixed forest of the valley floor and the fern choked gullies is an area dominated by sassafras trees, much prized by early settlers for the medicinal properties of their bark. Higher up on the sheltered slopes are areas of magnificent rainforest consisting of numerous tall trees, but dominated by myrtles with their distinctive black trunks and small dark-green leaves. They are most striking, however, when covered with new growth which splashes the forest with bright areas of bronze, copper and amber-red. Higher still, as the forest thins, is the related deciduous beech, a smaller tree that is the only Tasmanian native to shed its leaves, which it does in showers of brilliant yellow.

The most fascinating plant in the sub-alpine region is the pandani Richea pandanifolia. It is seen to its best ad­vantage in a grove behind Lake Dobson. The world's tall­est heath species, it can grow to an incredible nine metres high and gets its name from the clump of palm-like leaves that crown its tall single stem, which is still clothed in the dead leaves of previous seasons. It is one of 11 species of Richea, all but one of which are endemic to Tasmania: the honey richea is one of the most colourful inhabitants of the alpine heaths that surmount the park, ranging from white and yellow through various apricot shades to red. In the wet heath areas can be found the tiny cushion plants (which form bright, domed clumps up to a metre across) and the spectacular sundew.

'The National Park varies in altitude from 500 to 4,721 feet [152 to 1,439 metres] above sea-level, which varia­tions in altitude have their effect on the flora and fauna of the region, with the result that the faunal list of the park area is a varied and interesting one. It is quite possible that out in the rugged country, adjacent to Mount Field West, Marsupial Wolf ('Tiger') T. cynocepha/usmay be met with.'

The latter statement is, regretfully, no longer true. The last authentic record of a Tasmanian tiger is from 1933 and, despite the optimism of some, and numerous re­ported sightings, many believe it to be ex­tinct.

Tasmania is, however, very fortunate in its fauna. It has large areas of wilderness; some predators such as the fox are absent and the overall impact of feral animals is less than in most parts of mainland Australia. The result is two­fold. Firstly, the visitor has a good chance of seeing small mammals such as the potoroo, or rat kangaroo, the sim­ilar-sized, barred bandicoot and, at night, the brush-tail­ed, ring-tailed and pigmy possums. Secondly, the native carnivores are also in evidence. There are the two poly­protodonts, the tiger quoll and the native quoll and, less frequently seen, the Tasmanian devil.

Other well-known Australians which also inhabit Mt Field are the wombat, echidna (or spiny anteater) and, in the streams, the platypus. Notable amongst the invertebrates is the Tasmanian mountain shrimp. Described as a 'living fossil’, having remained unaltered for at least 200 million years, it is now confined to Tasmania, although similar animals turn up in fossil records of Europe and North America. The park has abundant bird life and among the more readily observed are the raven, curra­wong and the endemic green rosella.

Mt Field National Park is a complex and fascinating area. It is well run by its friendly staff of ten and, despite the compromises, offers high-quality bush experience to everybody from the wilderness enthusiast to the day-trip­per. One is left to wonder, however, if it is quite the kind of experience as was available in the park's early days.

When the park was declared, a local trapper, Will Belcher, was employed as the first ranger. He ran the place largely on his own for 17 years and he and his horse, Runic, became synonymous with the national park. One of his main duties was to guide parties wishing to visit the highlands. There were no roads, and the 'service' provid­ed horses, kit and provisions. To camp in the highlands was to be truly isolated - as was dramatically illustrated sometime in the early 1920s. An urgent telegram arrived at park headquarters addressed to one of a party in the then Lake Fenton Hut. It was late but, undaunted, Will saddled up Runic and plunged into the black night. Some three to four hours later he arrived at the hut and fumbl­ing fingers opened the envelope. The message read 'Happy Birthday'. Will Belcher's reaction is not recorded.

CHRIS TAPPERE who holds an Honours Degree in Arts from the University of New England in New South Wales. managed public radio stalions 2MBS-FM and 7CAE-FM before going freelance.