Southern Approaches

1.3.1 Finding Russell Falls

The northern section of the New Norfolk municipality forms the southern boundary of the approach to the Park. Apart from the long journey via Hamilton, access to the Park's southern edge and Russell Falls was also gained from the south via Glenora, Fenton Forest, and the old Russell Falls River, (now the Tyenna). The hamlet of Tyenna was the first access point to the Falls area.

Settlement patterns seen around the Hamilton municipality were repeated in this region also, but the greater rainfall allowed for denser settlement by small holders. Many of these were emancipists who later moved to the Tyenna district on the Park boundary, working neighbouring forests.

First Excursionists

Unsourced articles attribute the discovery of the Falls to Browning in 1856 (Bethell, P. 87). Controversy still exists within the local community near Mt Field on the subject. Bethell incorrectly attributes the name of the Russell River to Surgeon J.J. Russell first commandant of Port Arthur, who did not arrive until 1829. The river appears so named on a chart for 1826, and is more likely to have been named after Russell who was farm manager and family friend of the local settlers.

When and why the name Russell Falls was transferred from the River to the Falls proper is uncertain. As mentioned, the Falls were first called Brownings Falls, the creek feeding into them, (now known as Falls Creek), was known for many years as Brownings Creek. {After the death of William Crooke in 1920, the stream was Briefly known as "Crooke creek" - see later}. Changes in nomenclature before and after the formation of National Park reflect the-biases of those in decision-making positions.

1.3.2 Recorded Visits to Russell Falls

Early publications indicate that the Falls were being visited in the 1860s by Michael Fenton and family_of 'Fenton Foresf' (Tasmanian MaiI May 1885, p.C4). The naming of Lake Fenton occurs on maps in the 1830s, and seems to indicate that Michael Fenton had visited the area by then.

Seeing the Falls

Visitors wanting to see the Falls walked in from one of two routes, depending on the duration of their visit. Those on a one day excursion entered via the south- eastern property of Belchers. Over-night visitors often combined an excursion to the Falls with an angling trip, in which case they stayed at one of three boarding houses at Tyenna. Their south-western approach to Russell Falls later included Lady Barron and Marriott Falls, and occasionally the ]unee Caves. Other excursionists were advised in the 1870s to see the falls from the Ellendale side; others gained access from Gretna. Tyenna provided a convenient centre for parties heading into the Gordon River region. Only after Charles Marriott’s guest house was built at the Park entrance after 1911 did this direct entrance route supersede the older more circuitous routes used previously. An additional guest house was Mr Westerway’s at Russell.

An 1871 Description

One of the island's earliest guide books, Walch's 1871, Tasmanian Guide Book, has a detailed description oi the falls and a description of how to reach them. Strong allusions in the text (to her earlier works) indicate the author was Louisa Ann Meredith, who, from the empathetic description, had visited the Falls.

During this early period, access to Mt Field area was via Hamilton, and Monto’s Marsh (later Ellendale), as the Dunrobin Bridge (over the Derwent) allowed access to the area. Meredith describes access from both Hamilton and New Norfolk, and a road which connected this town with the Ouse.

Meredith's ecstatic description in 1871 explains:

On a stream which runs into Russell's Falls River is the most beautiful waterfall in the country, and one which is equalled by few elsewhere. The track by which it is reached leaves the road between the Styx and Russell's Falls River, at a short distance from the latter, the valley of which it follows for a few miles. The river has then to be crossed at a ford, and a bush track through a wild and thickly wooded country, here and there passing small farms recently cleared, conducts to the waterfall. The stream flows in a magnificent cascade, over the face of a precipice eighty or ninety feet in height, then alonga nearly level channel for fifty yards, when it falls over a ledge about forty feet high in a wide sheet, which breaks into a thousand- streaks of foam. All around the waterfall grow thickly the myrtle and sassafras, the most beautiful trees of the country; fern trees, and many kinds of shrubs unnamed except by botanists. On the edge of the lower fall stand myrtles which retain a seemingly precarious hold of the rock, and divide the sheet of water with their roots. From every point this waterfall presents a lovely view, but from some distance below the lower fall, where the whole height of the cascade is visible, the scene is exquisitely beautiful. In some places the path is rough, but the visitor can ride within a hundred yards of the fall, and ladies have gone to it from New Norfolk, returning on the same day, although the distance between the places is fully twenty-two miles. From Glenora a visit to these falls, which and about nine miles distant, is a pleasant days excursion."

[Walch, 1871]

A more detailed description - of a trip to Russell Falls is given by Howard Haywood "special Correspondent' to the Mercury in 1885. In describing his trip to the Falls, the writer is accompanied by Louis M. Shoobridge who acquired the land surrounding them. The Belcher connection with the Falls was already established, as the approach was through Belcher's on "tracks (which) have been cut to enable parties to ride within sound and sight of the falling waters", the Belcher's having been there from the 1860s (Mercury, May 1885. TSA). The Belcher referred to was John, father of Bill Belcher the long-serving ranger at the later National Park. Graffiti cut into logs at the Falls was dated from 1862; specific lettering included "SMLW, 7874", and FYSH,.

The Party picnicked at the foot of the Falls, presided over by Mr. Shoobridge who "has been frequently here". Returning to Belcher's farm, the party remounted their horses and continued through the Ellendale district.

Extract from Special Correspondents visit 1885:

“Mr. Louis M. Shoobridge and self, well mounted from his stable, left “The Forest” for Russell Falls, nine miles distant, one morning last week. Thanks to Mrs. Louis we were as learned afterwards, well provisioned, also a -very-comfortable state of things for a bush trip. The sky, overcast though not suspiciously lowering, indicated any kind of a turn, or no turn at all; but a rising glass gave hopes of 'a break and sunshade, spite of a little wresting in the early breeze and dewless saga and tussocks noticed crossing the run. The road, followed as far as the bridge on the Ellendale road seems ingeniously laid out, as also does a lingering diversion painfully dragging, through the process of forming -- and it will some day be completed if the fast springing grass does not obliterate what is done, so that the track is lost"………..

"Bearing to the left from the road, we kept the south bank of the river, which is a swift mountain stream of 30ft. to 50ft. wide, nowhere above the dam very deep, and with a bed of boulders, most of which, excepting at flood time, are more or less above water. To a gate our route was across a piece of land Mr. Shoobridge leases from Mr. Joseph Clarke, but I hope, for the leasee's sake, his rent is not heavier than a shilling per annum for the 2, 000 acres. The ground is good road material, and there is good firewood on it, otherwise not worth what is paid in taxes”……..

"Crossing a ford at the seventh mile, the soil changes; indeed, there is a patch worth improving here getting to the ford - which has apparently been selected, for there is a kiln and odd building on it. We leave the Falls Valley and climb a steep hill, on which the soil and vegetation is much like that of the Rugged Tier in East Sorell. Toward the top evidences of man's work appear, and we soon sight the buildings, paddocks, and hop grounds of a farmer named Belcher and others owned by his sons - a considerable area. There is not on the 150 or 200 acre sufficient level land for a quoit ground. It is a cluster of rising hills, criss-crossed in every direction by creeks, but good soil. Belcher must have been here 20 years, by the look of the timber. I fancy a place like this, with no inlet or outlet, without steep hills to climb, could only succeed as a dairy and fruit farm; but the stubble indicates grain growing. There are several patches of hops, on two of which people are busy picking the crop it this elevation, probably 900ft. above the sea, being a month or so later than down below. This side the Falls River is in the Hamilton district, and, for several miles, is generally called Monto's Marsh, a distinction I did not know before, though this farm rejoices in a name of its own, Forest HaIl, or something like it. It is pretty much all forest about, How people in out of-the-way spots, such as this, live is a mystery, cut off as they are from anything like reasonably easy communication with the outer world”.

Russell Falls: On reaching the Falls, the writer's enthusiasm showed no restraint:

How shall I describe this waterfall? Painter and poet together would fail to convey more than a shadow of its sublime grandeur..............

Its greatest perpendicular fall is not over 30 to 40f, and again only small portions are in sight at once. The vegetation is more rank and surroundings perhaps wilder; but, as remarked, it has to be taken-in in sections, the whole cannot be grasped at once. The myrtles at Russell's, though individually large, are infants compared to those at Mount Victoria, and the sassafras mere toothpicks, but the former hide rather than enhance beauties. If the cascade were a 100ft. wide it might be different.

Take it for granted Russell's Falls in their degree are incomparably beautiful, stamped with a bold individuality of picturesqueness, strikingly romantic, amid a wealth of vernal setting, purely Tasmanian, and to be seen nowhere else. I am not the only world- travelled one, getting satisfied with what the world has to show, who has been wakened and thrilled with admiring surprise on beholding this scene"

Two distinct ledges of schist fill the angle where the ridges converge crescent-wise, and embrace each about 100yds. in their segments at the head of a deep sided gorge, the bed of the creek, whose sides and crowning crests high up -ar9 gum forests, and lower myrtle, musk, sassafras, tree ferns, and dense vegetation of climbing and other ferns, vines, and berry bearing shrubs. The base of the upper fall stands 30 yds. back from the edge of the lower, leaving a considerable shelf of gallery from side to side, in the centre of which great boulders are heaped up, and trees carried over by floods lay about or lean against the nearly vertical face,, . .......

"Lunch over, we climbed to the head of the first fall, and thence to the top one, observations at which have already been detailed. There are several caves and shelves in and under the ledges at the left side clear of the watercourse. From below I variously estimated the height of each fall, concluding the lower was 20ft. or 3Oft. and upper 40ft. or 50ft. I ft. edge of the first, looking down, it seems nearly double the estimate, and a tree bole, certainly 3Oft in length, leaning against the wall of the second, reaches far short of half-way up, perhaps a third. A myrtle in the island, too, is full 50ft., and its crown is much below the level of the top ledge. We climb to the upper fall, and find said myrtle crown a long way down, and carefully noting a tall stringy-bark a little below the basin, which is full 6ft. in diameter above the spurs, and perhaps 200ft. in height, conclude that both cataracts aggregate a vertical drop of at least 120ft. or 130ft., the upper being full 70ft. or 80ft., and lower 40ft. or 50ft. Some years ago a young lady out at a picnic with the Fentons, when crossing a log thrown over the upper fall, lost her balance and fell. She was carried over the ledge, and to the second shelf, 10ft. or 12ft. below, which is. a- couple o1 yards wide. Her companions were naturally horrified, fearing she would be dashed t6 pieces, but, though much bruised, she managed to creep toward the side, and was rescued. It cut a stick from the very edge here, and can certify a slip means certain death, between 60ft. and 70ft. perpendicular.

Finding our way back to Belcher's the horses were resumed, and we crossed the divide between the Russell's Falls and the Jones' Rivulet, and visited several farms,,.

1.3.3 Russell Falls Reserve, 1885

Declaration of the first natural reserve in Tasmania occurred with little fan-fare in March 1885. In November 1884, Frodsham had surveyed the Falls Reserve (LSD 224 yol.2, TSA). Its declaration appears to have resulted from the interest and enthusiasm of Louis Shoobridge, in cooperation with N.I. Brown, the idealistic Lands minister. A member of the Shoobridge hop growing family based at Bushy Park, Louis’ “most enduring achievement stemmed from his selection and preservation of 50 acres (20 ha) near the beautiful Russell Falls" (ADB Vol' 9 P.602-3).

Without specific legislation to protect natural areas, 300 acres around Russell Falls was proclaimed under the Waste Lands Act (34 vict, No.10, section 4), and steered through by the Minister for Lands and works, Nicholas |. Brown (Hobart Gazette, March 1885, TSA).

COUNTY OF BUCKINGHAM, PARISH OF ALGYLE - 300 acres

Bounded on the south by 54 chains 75 links westerly along crown land commencing at a point distant 1 chain 90 links, westerly from the Russell Falls River, on the west by 54 chains 79 links northerly also along crown land, on the north by 54 chains 80 links, easterly also along- crown land (crossing the Falls Creek), and there on the east by 5+ chains 75 links southerly also along crown land and along land selected by Esther Shoobridge (re-crossing the Falls Creek) to the point of commencement''

1.3.4 Popularising the Falls - 1880-1900

The Falls continued to grow in popularity largely due to an influx of regular visitors, and the increasing sophistication of the 19th century tourism market. This was aided by cheap accommodation , an expanded railway network, plus increased circulation of guide books. The "New Tasmanian Guide Book" of 1889 went into several later editions. Author, Henry Button, gives a shorter description than earlier publications, and was the first to feature Beattie's "classic" promotional photo of the Falls'

Leaving the Derwent River near Fenton Forest, the road to the Falls diverges towards the tiers, and a walk of about three miles along an easily ascending horse track leads to a spur whence there is a view of a deep gorge in which the Russell flows. The steep hills on each side are thickly wooded, and on the west, the snow clad summit of Mt Field (over 4000ft) bounds the landscape. Unexpectedly the homestead and hop grounds of Mr Belcher are met with here, and a mile further, following the right side of the gully, we come to the tributary of the Russell and here are the celebrated Falls. The Falls are about 150 ft high, 100ft broad, but are broken by a ledge half way down, thus forming two distinct falls. From the Pool below, the lower ledge is seen to over-hang from some distance, and in the space is a perfect fairy bower of delicate ferns and mosses. The tall trees around, and groves of immense tree ferns all combine to render this spot one-of the "lions" of Tasmania" (Button, P.186-7).

Day Trippers

In the 1890s, the rail-ways- were given responsibility for coordinating much of the "bottom end" of the tourist trade, in conjunction with Thomas Cook’s agency, and competed with the privately established and managed Tasmanian Tourist Association, begun in 1893. Cook's 1894 "Railway Official Guide Book to Tasmania" features Russell Falls as a well establisn6a visitor destination, with rail excursions to Glenora from Hobart connected by horse-drawn vehicles to the Falls and return on the same day.

"The Russell Falls.-..... can be reached by vehicle from New Norfolk over a good road; or the visitor can leave Hobart by train at 8 am, arrange to have a vehicle waiting at Glenora, and be in Hobart again at 6.40 p.m". The Falls are then briefly described, and the Visitor advised-that "About 5 miles further west, near the township of Tyenna, where accommodation can be obtained, are the Marriott Falls, even more picturesquely situated" (Cook ,p.67).

1.3.5 Organised Tourism - pre 1916

Letters to the Mercury from visitors indicate that the Falls excursion was well established by 1910 for both day and over-night visitors. A party of Victorian bowlers applied to the Tourist Bureau for tickets to visit the Falls on January 4, 1910. The Bureau caused friction by emphasising motor tours, ignoring the cheaper train and/or steamer excursion to New Norfolk, the later offered by the Whitehouse Bros. "SS Nubeena". Horse-drawn vehicles met the train at the then farthest point Russell (now Westerway). Visitors collected a hamper from the Carlton Cafe Hobart for 2 shillings and six pence. The train fare was 6/6 pence return, the vehicle to the Falls, 2/6 pence, a total cost of 11/6 pence, compared to the motor hire of 1 pound 2 shillings (Mercury, 1/1/1910, p3 C6). Another visitor criticized the (private) Tourist Bureau for its "general uselessness....... concerning available means of access to such a beauty spot as Russell Falls” Mercury 12/1/1910, P5 C7). On the same day however, “Queensland Tourist” defended the organization claiming that the round trip by motor well worth the expense. The fee included the ride lo the Falls, returning via Rosegarland; a fruit lunch at New Norfolk, a visit to the Salmon Ponds, a picnic lunch at the Falls, and dinner at the Bush Inn, New Norfolk on return.

Anglers

Rivers and creeks on the southern edge of the Park, including the Russell Falls, were attractive fishing grounds for anglers, and more accessible than the lakes on Mt Field. Three guest houses at Tyenna gave accommodation to fisher-man,survey Parties heading into the Gordon River, and those wanting to see the Falls area.

Keen anglers such as William Crooke, who was to feature so prominently in the formation of the Park, regularly visited his cottage on the banks of the Tyenna River. He reported fishing with Mr Harris from Sydney, who "usually fished the Dee with Mr Hall of the Sydney Grammar School. In his angling column in the Mercury under the pen-name "Jollytail", Crooke recorded the sport in the Russell River, fisting also in the pools under both Lady Barron and Russell Falls, (noting briefly at one stage, a lady angler).

He warned against trying to make the walk to Lady Barron Falls in the one day from Hobart. "Several Visitors" he noted, had made the trip to Mount Field, walking both ways. A stroll to the top of a mountain seven miles away and 4,000ft high and a stroll back are not lightly to be undertaken. They did not stay long, nor did they fish the lakes". Crooke criticized the lack of facilities. We do not properly arrange for this mountain climbing business". Revealing himself as a gentleman sportsman, he felt that the strange food, the exertion and the "loss of rest" caused the majority to have as the "great desire to get back to civilization as soon as they decently can. Bunks at tourist huts should be provided with spring mattresses". The tourist, a "townsman", was not used to roughing it (Mercury 2/10/1910, p6 C3).

updated by adding text 31/8/15

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