Iwata Revolution HP-CR Review
1/2012
Thanks to Gary Glass, I finally have a genuine real Iwata airbrush. The Revolution is Iwata's entry level line, and the HP-CR is the most popular model. I've read many good comments about it, and now I get to try it myself.
First impressions
As you might expect, the finish is flawless. The trigger is smooth but overly stiff for my liking. It is a little nose heavy, balancing about where the last O is in Revolution. It weighs 97g without the cap. The cup holds 1/3oz., which is pretty standard.
Parts Breakdown
Here is the HP-CR disassembled. The trigger is the two part type with the pivoting pin that I find difficult to install.
The needle seal is Teflon and adjustable. It sits deep in the body. This makes the channel between it and the cup only about 3/8 of an inch long.
Here is a closeup of the air valve parts. The brass sleeve fits inside the air valve tube. In addition to the O-ring visible on the sleeve there is a small O-ring that sits on top of it, which the trigger pin passes through. That O-ring is still inside the body of the brush. Its purpose is to prevent an air leak past the trigger. I thought about trying to remove it until I discovered a replacement cost $6, and I decided to leave it in place.The sleeve is covered with a film of grease. It doesn't fall out, but can be pushed out with a pin the same size as the trigger pin. The little hole in the side goes all the way through, and is how air exits the valve. It must align with the airbrush body when re-installed or the valve won't work. I used tweezers to unscrew the bottom cap of the air valve. The cap was tricky to replace. I did it by holding it down with a fingernail and turning it with a toothpick.A common problem I see on the forums with Iwata airbrushes is a stuck air valve. I suspect it's because that little O-ring the trigger pin passes through needs lubrication.
Here is a close-up of the head. One odd thing, the wrench was too small to fit the tiny nozzle. I had to open it a little with a jeweler's file. The nozzle had some sort of red sealant on the threads and there was grease on the nozzle cap threads. But, there was no O-ring on the nozzle like the Neos have. Do not over tighten the nozzle.Alignment of the nozzle in the nozzle cap opening was good.Iwata calls the end piece a needle cap. It can be removed, exposing the needle, and the brush will still work.
Here are the CR and Neo needles. The top one is the CR, then the Neo BCN, and at the bottom, the Neo CN. The shaft of the CR needle is about 0.055 inches in diameter. The CR has a pronounced double taper.The CR has a 0.5mm nozzle, but can be converted to 0.3mm. There is a how-to article here if you are interested The parts run about $30 at Coast Airbrush.
Trying it out
I clipped a couple loops off the trigger and air valve springs, and did the doodle on the right with food coloring on paper towel. It had a nice pattern and good control. I removed the needle cap so I could get closer, but I couldn't make as fine a line as I expected. Maximum coverage from 3 inches was about 3/4 inch.This is another airbrush that it is probably best just to flush to clean. I don't think I would want to remove the little tip each time. But, like the Neo, eventually you may have to clean out the channel in front of the needle seal. An ultrasonic cleaner might be a good investment. Be careful not to get strong solvents on the little O-ring around the trigger shaft.
Conclusion
There is no denying that this is a well made airbrush. The workmanship is first rate. Being slightly nose heavy made it feel a little awkward, and I had to modify my grip, but I soon got used to it. I prefer a neutral or slight tail heavy balance. But, that's just me.
Parts pricing is not bad. Coast sells the needle for $6.50.
The Revolution HP-CR is a very good .5mm airbrush. It's not a super detailing brush, at least not in my hands, and I don't think it was meant to be. But, it is a very high quality general purpose airbrush.
Again, my sincere thanks to Gary Glass and Joanna Murphy for the sample.
Postscript
I got an e-mail from Mike Simpson, who pointed out that the part Iwata calls a spring guide can be adjusted to soften the trigger action. It's the threaded part just forward of the needle chuck. Badger calls theirs a spring adjuster. I was aware of that, but it doesn't soften the trigger enough for me, and that's why I nipped a couple of loops off the spring. But, it's probably sufficient for most people. Thanks, Mike for the tip.