References in Print 4

Part 4 - Of Obscure References

Whether these are indeed references to houndstooth, as a concept, are unclear. Nonetheless, I include for the sake of thoroughness.

10. Specific Instances of the Term ‘Border Tartan/Check/Plaid’ (Also known as Shepherd’s Check)

A simple listing of all instances of the specific term ‘border tartan/check/plaid’ and variants, these likely being the same.

1832

Annapolis Maryland Republican Saturday, December 1, 1832 (border plaid) NA

1835

Newcastle Courant Saturday 10 January 1835 (*border plaid) p. 2, 4 (the first reference to border plaid) BNA

1839

Cumberland Pacquet, and Ware's Whitehaven Advertiser Tuesday 7 May 1839 Article p. 3 (the first reference to border tartan) BNA

1841

Morning Chronicle Saturday, July 10, 1841 (attired in a *border plaid) NA

1845?

The Port Phillip Patriot and Morning Advertiser (Vic.) Thursday 13 November 1845 p. 3 Advert (border check) Tr.

N.B. Context is a little unclear.

1848

Greenock Advertiser Friday 29 September 1848 Article p. 1 (border tartan) BNA

Globe Friday 29 September 1848 Article p. 3 (border tartan) BNA

Morning Post Friday 29 September 1848 Article p. 3 (*border tartan) BNA, NA

Illustrated London News Saturday 30 September 1848 Illustrated p. 5 (border tartan) BNA

Northern Whig (NI), Saturday 30 September 1848 Article p. 4 (border tartan) BNA

Bell's New Weekly Messenger Sunday 1 October 1848 article pp. 4-5 BNA (border tartan)

London Magnet Monday, October 2, 1848 (*border tartan) Same as Morning Post) NA

Inverness Courier Tuesday 3 October 1848 Article p. 2 (border tartan) BNA

Derry Journal Wednesday 4 October 1848 Article p. 2 Northern Ireland (border tartan) BNA

Nairnshire Mirror, and General Advertiser Saturday 7 October 1848 Article p. 2 (border tartan) BNA

Londonderry Sentinel Saturday 7 October 1848 Article p. 4 (border tartan) BNA

1851

Illustrated London News Saturday 11 October 1851 Article p. 22 (border check) (the first reference to Border Check in the UK) BNA

Bell's Weekly Messenger Saturday 25 October 1851 Article (border check) p. 5 BNA

1852

Boston Post Tuesday, November 2, 1852 (border check) (the first reference to Border Check in the US) N.B. the same advert appears in BP of 3, 5, 6, 9 and 17 November 1852. NA

1854

Cheltenham Examiner Wednesday 18 October 1854 Article p. 5 (border tartan) BNA

1866

Brisbane Queenslander Saturday, June 2, 1866 (*border plaid) (the first reference to Border Plaid in Australia NA

Selected, beyond the date range above

1931

The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld.) Thursday 15 October 1931 p. 3 Article (border tartan) (the first reference in Australia) Tr.

1934

Otago Daily Times 27 January 1934 p. 9 Advert (border check) (the first reference to Border Check in New Zealand) PP

Evening Star 27 January 1934 p. 11 Advert (border check) PP

1937

Evening Star 29 April 1937 p. 20 Advert (border check) PP

1938

Poverty Bay Herald 10 December 1938 p. 15 Advert (border check) PP

N.B. the same advert appears on Poverty Bay Herald 12-13 December 1938 pp. 13 and 15

1940

Waihi Daily Telegraph 13 December 1940 p. 1 Advert (border check) PP

1964

Salt Lake Tribune Sunday, August 2, 1964 (border tartan) (the first (and only!) reference in the US) NA

Observations

For once a broadly consistent beginning given an assumed UK/Scotland source, with the first reference of border check 1845, border tartan 1839 and border plaid. Perhaps somewhat surprisingly, each of the three terms were not from Scotland! The first recorded Scottish reference is as late of 1848.

Of note here is the relative scarcity of the term Border Check. Indeed, there are very few references to the term, with some countries having just one or two references. Possibly there are many more still to be unearthed, but with such a common term, without any of the complexities as with Pepita for instance, it seems unlikely.

13. Specific Instances of the Term ‘Falkirk Tartan’ (Also sometimes known as Shepherd’s Check)

A simple listing of all instances of the specific term ‘Falkirk Tartan’ (N.B. in contrast to others, seemingly without variants).

1977

Morgantown Morning Reporter Saturday, January 15, 1977 (the first reference to Falkirk Tartan in the US) NA

Oil City Derrick Tuesday, January 18, 1977 NA

Syracuse Herald Journal Wednesday, May 11, 1977 NA

Lake Charles American Press Thursday, May 19, 1977 NA

1988

Perthshire Advertiser Tuesday 12 April 1988 Illustrated p. 21 (the first reference to Falkirk Tartan in the UK) BNA

1997

Liverpool Echo Monday 26 May 1997 Article p. 34 BNA

2014

Valley Morning Star Friday, September 19, 2014 NA

2016

Daily Express Wednesday 6 April 2016, p. 23 UKPO

Table of Falkirk Tartan

Observations

Of note here is the relative scarcity of the term Falkirk Tartan. Indeed, there are very few references to the term, with just two countries using the term, namely the UK and the US. Possibly there are a few more still to be unearthed, but with such a common term, without any of the complexities as with Pepita for instance, it seems unlikely.

Background matters aside, the first reference is the US of 1977, which is perhaps somewhat surprising, given that it is of a UK source! The first instance of the UK is of 1988. It is not known in Australia, France, New Zealand and the Netherlands.

14. Specific Instances of the Term ‘Northumberland Tartan’ (Also known sometimes as Shepherd’s Check)

A simple listing of all instances of the specific term ‘Northumberland Tartan’ (N.B. in contrast to others, seemingly without variants). Also known as ‘Northumberland Plaid’, although as with many of these variations, it is unclear if this is the same reference.

1862

Leeds Intelligencer Saturday, October 4, 1862 (*Northumberland Plaid) (the first reference to Northumberland Plaid, in the UK) NA

N.B. the same reference appears in the Launceston Examiner below.

1863

Launceston Examiner Saturday, January 31, 1863 (*Northumberland Plaid) NA

(the only Australian reference to tartan/checks/ plaid)

1866

Bells Life In London and Sporting Chronicle Saturday, May 26, 1866 (*Northumberland Tartan) (Faux reference, of racehorse names! Keep for sake of clarity) NA

1923

Yorkshire Post and Leeds Intelligencer Friday 6 April 1923 Article p. 7 BNA

1929

Liverpool Echo Saturday 30 November 1929 Article p. 7 BNA

Table

Observations

Of note here is the scarcity of the term Northumberland Tartan. Indeed, it is only known in the UK, albeit with just three references. Possibly there are a few more still to be unearthed, but with such a common term, without any of the complexities as with Pepita for instance, it seems unlikely.

Background matters aside, the first reference is the UK of 1866, with the next, 1923, 57 years later! And again, 1929.

15. Specific Instances of the Term ‘Galashiels Grey’ (Also known sometimes as Shepherd’s Check)

A simple listing of all instances of the specific term ‘Galashiels Grey’ (N.B. in contrast to others, seemingly without variants, occasionally without the grey appellation). Also occasionally known as ‘Galashiels Tartan’, although as with many of these variations, it is unclear if this is the same reference.

1853

Leicester Journal and Midland Counties General Advertiser Friday, May 6, 1853 (*Galashiels Tartan)

NA

1855

Boston Post Wednesday, September 26, 1855 (*Galashiels Grey) (the first US reference) NA

1860

Inverness Courier Thursday 11 October 1860 p. 2 (Galashiels Grey) BNA

1864

Leamington Spa Courier Saturday 10 September 1864 p.3 (Galashiels Grey) BNA

1868

Southern Reporter Thursday 14 May 1868 p. 3 (Galashiels Grey) BNA

Huddersfield Chronicle Saturday 6 June 1868 p. 3 (Galashiels Gray) BNA

Huddersfield Chronicle Saturday 13 June 1868 p. 3 (Galashiels Grey) BNA

Huddersfield Chronicle Saturday 20 June 1868 p. 3 (Galashiels Grey) BNA

1869

Newcastle Journal Tuesday 4 May 1869 pp. 3-4 (Galashiels Grey) BNA

1874

Weekly Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Saturday 3 October 1874 p. 21 Article (Galashiels Grey) Tr.

1881

Glasgow Herald Saturday 2 April 1881 p. 3 (Galashiels Grey) BNA

Southern Reporter Thursday 8 December 1881 p. 4 (Galashiels Grey) BNA

1883

Southern Reporter Thursday 1 February 1883 p. 4 (Galashiels Grey) BNA

Adelaide Express and Telegraph Wednesday, April 11, 1883 (*Galashiels Plaid) NA

1885

Peeblesshire Advertiser Saturday 11 April 1885 p. 3 (Galashiels Grey) BNA

1887

Peeblesshire Advertiser Saturday 18 June 1887 p. 3 (Galashiels Grey) BNA

1892

Boston Post Saturday, April 30, 1892 (Galashiels plaid suits) NA

N.B the same advert appears again in the BP on 7 May 1892

1894

The Scotsman Wednesday 7 November 1894 p. 9 (Galashiels Grey) BNA

1895

Birmingham Daily Post Tuesday 26 March 1895 p. 1 (Galashiels Gray) BNA

1897

Southern Reporter Thursday 5 August 1897 pp. 2-3 (Galashiels Grey) BNA

Dundee Advertiser Friday 5 November 1897 p. 2 (Galashiels Grey) BNA

1898

North Adams Transcript Saturday, January 22, 1898 (*Galashiels Grey) NA

1915

Bloomfield News Thursday, August 5, 1915 (*Galashiels) NA

Observations

Of note here is the scarcity of the term Galashiels Grey. Indeed, it is only known in three countries, with the source the UK, of a town in Scotland, of 1783, Australia 1874, and the US, 1898. Possibly there are a few more still to be unearthed, but with such a common term, without any of the complexities as with pepita for instance, it seems unlikely.

16. Specific Instances of the Term ‘Four in Four Check’ and Variants

A simple listing of all instances of the specific term ‘Four in Four Check’ and variants of the word such as ‘four-in-four check’.

1878

The Scotsman Friday 5 April 1878 (four and four checks) BNA

Carlisle Journal Tuesday 23 April 1878 (four and four checks) BNA

1938

Leeds Mercury Saturday 20 August 1938 (four and four check) BNA

Observations

Of note here is the scarcity of the term Four and Four Check. Indeed, it is only known in one country, namely the UK, and of just three references. When discussed, it is termed ‘four in four’ rather than ‘four and four’. As such, it almost seems an obsolete term, seemingly falsely used in modern-day times. Possibly there are a few more still to be unearthed, but with such a common term, without any of the complexities, as with pepita for instance, it seems unlikely.

17. Specific Instances of the Term ‘Star Checks’ and Variants

A simple listing of all instances of the specific term ‘Star Checks’ and variants of the word such as ‘Starcheck’.

1837

Evening Mail Friday 10 November 1837 p. 3  

1849

Boston Post Tuesday, May 22, 1849 (*star checks) NA

1868

Indianapolis Journal Friday, April 17, 1868 (*star checks) NA

1869

Boston Post Tuesday, February 23, 1869 (*star checks) NA

1870

Indianapolis Journal Monday, August 22, 1870 p. 6 (*star checks) NA

1871

Weekly Wisconsin Wednesday, April 5, 1871, p. 5 N.B. of uncertain veracity NA

1874

The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW.) Thursday 21 May 1874 (*star checks) Tr.

1885

Evening Post  15 August 1885  p. 2 (*star checks) PP

1894

Brooklyn Daily Eagle Saturday, January 13, 1894 p. 10 (*raw silk star checks) NA

Baltimore Sun Wednesday, March 28, 1894 NA

1897

Baltimore Sun Monday, February 8, 1897 p.4 (*Star Checks) NA

Baltimore Sun Tuesday, February 9, 1897 (*Star Checks) NA

Selected

Birmingham Daily Gazette Tuesday 1 February 1921 p. 8 article (*starcheck)

Stratford Evening Post  24 September 1928  p. 1 (*star check) PP

Britannia and Eve, Thursday 1 November 1951 p. 47 (*star-checked dressweight tweed) Illustrated

Sunderland Daily Echo and Shipping Gazette Thursday 30 April 1953 p. 15 Illustrated

Birmingham Daily Post Tuesday 30 March 1971 p. 14 (*star check midi coat) Illustrated

18. Specific Instances of the Term ‘Crowsfoot’ and Variants

A simple listing of all instances of the specific term ‘crowsfoot' and variants, with crows foot, crows-foot crow's foot ,these likely being the same, with likely terms: pattern, design, check, tweed, dress, skirt appended.

Note that the term ‘crows foot borders’ refers not to a pattern, but a fringes resembling crow’s feet (or from the image I presume so…)

Faux: wrinkles, buttercups

A major problem here is that I have not been able to find a single picture, at least in newspapers! Therefore, the references here are all uncertain to greater or lesser degrees as to the exact design. For instance, ‘crows foot pattern’ may simply be referring to a repeat motif, without any interlocking aspect to it. Therefore, pending picture finding, these references should be borne with this in mind.

1862

Adelaide South Australian Advertiser Wednesday, February 26, 1862 (*Crow’s-foot pattern) NA

Adelaide South Australian Weekly Chronicle Saturday, March 1, 1862 (*Crow’s-foot pattern) NA

As such, this is such an outlier, with the next Australian reference 1917! The reference is of clothing though, albeit far from  clear as a tessellation.

1894

The Scranton Tribune. February 20, 1894, p. 2 (*The crow’s foot and shepherd check are new) CA

1905

The Tatler Wednesday 5 April 1905  (*Crow’s-foot designs) BNA

1910

The News Journal Friday, March 18, 1910 p. 2 (*crowsfoots) Ne.

The York Daily Saturday, March 19, 1910 p. 12 (*crowsfoots) Ne.

1911

The Lake County Times, March 16, 1911, p. 8 (*crow foot checks) CA

Rock Island Argus. March 18, 1911 p. 9 (*“crow’s foot” checks) CA

Omaha Daily Bee. March 21, 1911 (no page number) (*“crow’s foot” checks) CA

1913*

Edmonton Journal Saturday, February 22, 1913 p. 3 (*crowsfoot check suit) Ne.

1914

South Bend News-Times. April 23, 1914, p, 3 (*crow’s foot check coating) CA

1915*

St. Johnsbury Caledonian. March 17, 1915, p. 4 (*new crow’s foot checks) CA

The San Francisco Examiner, Thursday, March 18, 1915 p. 2 (*Crowsfoot checks) Ne.

Buffalo Courier Sunday, April 11, 1915 p. 2 (*crowfoot checks) Ne.

The Democratic Advocate. November 19, 1915, p. 3 (*Black and White crow foot) CA

* The term predominates here, of 200+ matches, at least from Ne. and so I thus refrain from adding more entries.

1916

Chester Times Friday, April 21, 1916 (*Crowsfoot checks, glen urquhart) NA

Chester Times Friday, April 24, 1916 (*Crowsfoot checks) NA

Chester Times Friday, May 12, 1916 (*Crowsfoot checks) NA

Trenton Evening Times Friday, May 19, 1916 (*Crowsfoot checks) NA

The Washington Herald. May 3, 1916, p. 12 (*crows-foot checks) CA

The Washington Herald. May 10, 1916, p. 12 (*crows-foot checks) CA

1917

The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld.) Monday 19 March 1917 p. 1 Advertising (*skirts in the new Crowsfoot check tweeds) Tr.

Evening Star. March 25, 1917, (*crow foot, shepherd checks) CA

Evening Star. March 26, 1917, p. 12  (*crow foot, shepherd checks) CA

Evening Star. April 22, 1917 (*crowsfoot) CA

1918

Daily Standard (Brisbane, Qld.) Thursday 23 May 1918 p. 1 Advertising (*new Crowsfoot check tweed coat) Tr.

The Seattle Star. October 1, 1918 (*finished with crow’s foot embroidery) CA

Western Star 15 November 1918 p. 3 Advert (*Crows Foot Check) PP

The first New Zealand reference. The same advert appears in eight other NZ papers of the year.

1919

The Daily Mail (Brisbane, Qld.) Thursday 10 April 1919 p. 1 Advert (*Crowsfoot checks) Tr.

South Bend News-Times. July 16, 1919, p. 8 (*crow’s foot border) CA

Great Falls Daily Tribune. September 21, 1919, p. 12 (*crow foot check) CA

The Indianapolis Star Wednesday, June 4, 1919 p. 7(*crows-foot designs) Ne.

1920

Evening Star. March 21, 1920 (*crows-foot design) CA

1921

Evening Star (Washington, D.C.), May 17, 1921, p. 15 (*Crow’s foot pattern) CA

The Brisbane Courier (Qld.) Wednesday 23 November 1921 p. 1 Advert

1922

The Evening World. May 8, 1922  p. 10 (*Crow’s foot pattern) CA

1924

The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW) Wednesday 20 February 1924 p. 1 Advert (*Crow’s-foot [illegible] design) Tr.

1925

Evening Star. April 20, 1925, p. 10 (*crow foot borders) CA

Evening Star. June 16, 1925, p. 11 (*crow-foot borders) CA

1926

Salt Lake Tribune Wednesday, July 21, 1926 (*Crows foot design) NA

The Brooklyn Daily Eagle (Brooklyn, New York) 20 Jan 1926, Wednesday p.13 (*crowsfoot pattern) Ne.

1927

Winnipeg Free Press Wednesday, March 9, 1927 (*Crows-foot pattern) NA

Evening Star. August 2, 1927, p. 19 (*crow-foot border) CA

The Winnipeg Tribune Canada Wednesday, March 9, 1927 p. 22 (*Crowsfoot pattern) Ne.

1928

San Antonio Express Sunday, September 16, 1928 (*Crows-foot design) NA

1929

Sunday Times (Perth, WA) Sunday 13 January 1929 p. 3 Article (*Crowsfoot design) Tr.

Evening Star. January 22, 1929, p. 28 (*crow-foot borders) CA

The Ogden Standard-Examiner. Tuesday, June 25, 1929 p. 7 (*Crowsfoot pattern) Ne

1930

Berkeley Daily Gazette Monday, March 3, 1930 (*Crows-foot pattern) NA

Evening Star. March 9, 1930, p. 6 (*crow foot borders) CA

1931

Britannia and Eve Tuesday 1 September 1931 p. 74 (*Crowsfoot pattern) BNA

Hendon & Finchley Times Friday 20 March 1931 (*Crowfoot design) BNA

Uxbridge & W. Drayton Gazette Friday 20 March 1931  (*Crowfoot design) BNA

1932

Evening Star. September 30, 1932, p.  B-11 (*crow foot checks) CA

1933

The Bystander Wednesday 6 September 1933 p. 50 (*Crowsfoot design) BNA

Brisbane Telegraph Monday, August 21, 1933 (*Crows-foot pattern) NA

The Tatler Wednesday 17 May 1933 p. 92 (*Crows-foot check) BNA

Yorkshire Evening Post Friday 22 September 1933 p. 1 (*Crow’s foot check) BNA

Evening Star. April 9, 1933, p. 9 (*“Crow’s-foot” pattern) CA

1934

Surrey Mirror Friday 5 October 1934 p. 14 (*Crowsfoot design) BNA

Kalgoorlie Miner (WA) Saturday 5 May 1934 p. 11 Advertising (*Crows foot) Tr.

Hartford Courant Hartford, June 6, 1934 p. 13 (*Crowsfoot pattern) Ne.

1935

Liverpool Echo Wednesday 20 March 1935 p. 5 (*Crows foot design) BNA

1936

Examiner (Launceston, Tas.) Tuesday 7 April 1936 p 12 Article Illustrated (*Crows foot check design) Tr.

The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Wednesday 24 June 1936 p 16 Advertising (*Crows foot tweed) Tr.

1937

Winnipeg Tribune Wednesday, March 10, 1937 (*Crowsfoot checks) NA

Chichester Observer Wednesday 28 April 1937 p. 9 (*Crow’s foot tweeds) BNA

Bognor Regis Observer Wednesday 28 April 1937 p. 9 (*Crow’s foot tweeds) BNA

1942

Sheboygan Press Thursday, August 27, 1942 (*Crows foot check) NA

1944

Pingelly-Brookton Leader (WA) Thursday 22 June 1944 p. 1 Advert (*Crowsfoot design) Tr.

1945

Hobart Mercury Thursday, January 25, 1945 p. 9 Advert (*Crowsfoot checks) NA, Tr.

Border Watch (Mount Gambier, SA) Thursday 22 March 1945 p. 8 Advertising (*Crowsfoot check) Tr.  

1948

The Sketch Wednesday 14 April 1948 p. 28 (*Crow’s-foot check) BNA

1949

The Daily News (Perth, WA) Thursday 16 June 1949 p. 8 Advert (*Crowsfoot check) Tr.

1950*

Daily Mirror Saturday 26 August 1950 p. 8  (*skirt in crowsfoot check) BNA

Western Daily Press Saturday 11 November 1950 (*small crowsfoot checks) BNA

Evening Star. June 15, 1950, p. B-15 (*“Crow-foot” borders) CA

Daily News Monday, December 11, 1950 p. 535 (*Crowsfoot pattern) Ne.

The Akron Beacon Journal Friday, September 22, 1950 p. 39 (*Crowsfoot tweeds) Ne.

* The term ‘crowsfoot tweed’ predominates here, of 130+ matches, at least from Ne. and so I thus refrain from adding more entries.

1951

Dixon Evening Telegraph Wednesday, August 29, 1951 (*Crows-foot check) NA

Evening Star. October 24, 1951, p. A-2 (*Crows-foot patterns) CA

1952*

Lebanon Daily News Tuesday, March 11, 1952 (*Crows foot pattern) NA

The Morning Call. Wednesday, March 12, 1952 p. 19 (*Crowsfoot pattern) Ne.

Kokomo Tribune Wednesday, March 26, 1952 (*Crows foot pattern) NA

The Sun (Sydney, NSW) Wednesday 19 March 1952 p. 30 Advert (*Crowsfoot design) Tr.

Daily Advertiser (Wagga Wagga, NSW) Thursday 3 April 1952 p. 5 Advert (*Crowsfoot design) Tr.

* The term ‘crowsfoot pattern’ predominates here, of 150+ matches, at least from Ne. and so I thus refrain from adding more entries.

1954

Cheshire Observer Saturday 4 September 1954, p. 11 (*Crowfoot design) BNA

1957

Bristol Daily Courier Friday, November 1, 1957 (*Crows-foot tweeds) NA

Bristol Daily Courier Friday, December 6, 1957 (*Crows-foot tweeds) NA

1958

Victor Harbour Times (SA) Friday 28 February 1958 p. 33 Advert (*Crow’s foot design) Tr.  

Liverpool Echo Friday 19 September 1958 p. 17 (*Crow’s-foot check) BNA

1960

Redlands Daily Facts Tuesday, October 11, 1960 (*Crowsfoot checks) NA

1962

Madison Wisconsin State Journal Wednesday, December 26, 1962 (*Crows-foot tweed) NA

1963

Uniontown Morning Herald Friday, March 8, 1963 (*Crows-foot check) NA

Danville Bee Wednesday, October 16, 1963 (*Crowsfoot checks) NA

The Canberra Times (ACT) Thursday 18 April 1963 p 7 Advertising (*Crowsfoot check suiting) Tr.

The Canberra Times (ACT ) Thursday 20 June 1963 p 18 Advertising (*muted crowsfoot check) Tr.   

1964

Birmingham Daily Post Saturday 1 August 1964  p. 7 (*Crow’s foot checks) BNA

1965

Star News Tuesday, August 3, 1965 (*Crowsfoot checks) NA

Pasadena Independent Tuesday, August 3, 1965 (*Crowsfoot checks) NA

1967

Appeal Democrat Friday, May 26, 1967 (*Crowsfoot checks) NA

Danville Register Sunday, May 28, 1967 (*Crowsfoot checks) NA

Blytheville Courier News Monday, May 29, 1967 (*Crowsfoot checks) NA

Bucks County Courier Times Saturday, June 3, 1967 (*Crowsfoot checks) NA

Gastonia Gazette Sunday, June 4, 1967 (*Crowsfoot checks) NA

Uniontown Evening Standard Tuesday, June 6, 1967 (*Crowsfoot checks) NA

Beckley Raleigh Register Tuesday, June 13, 1967 (*Crowsfoot checks) NA

Kenosha News Friday, June 23, 1967 (*Crowsfoot checks) NA

Mckinney Daily Courier Gazette Tuesday, June 27, 1967 (*Crowsfoot checks) NA