1966 Martin D-18

(Click on any image for a larger version.)

This 1966 D-18 with the beautiful Honduras Mahogany back had suffered through a few indignities in its 40 years.

The previous owner had done an excellent job of replacing the 'driver's' side after an accident, but it also had a separated crack in the top. As well, some well-meaning repair person had shaved down the bridge to lower the playing action instead of doing the right thing - a neck reset.

Oh boy! Now I have to tell the owner that the guitar needs a neck reset AND a new bridge, instead of just the reset.

If you look closely you can see the crack from the inside.

Although the top wood sounds great, it is a little funky, with some areas of tension grain.

That's the original Micarta nut nestled in the body for safe-keeping.

After removing the thin, shaved down bridge, the crack could be more easily assessed and widened to accept a splint.

Good thing it ended under the bridge, it made it easy to hide.

After carefully choosing the splint material for matching grain, colour and reflectance, it was glued in and pared flush with the top.

I then stained some lacquer to get it to the same colour as the old finish and sprayed that on.

After rubbing it out, the new splint is pretty hard to pick out unless you're looking for it, which you probably are at this point.

This top has really prominent growth rings which made it easy to hide the splint between two dark lines.

Here's a look at the shaved down bridge on the right, an original height '67 D-18 bridge in the middle and the new Brazilian bridge on the left, still a bit thick & unrefined.

The new bridge ready to glue. The bridge has the pin holes drilled and chamfered but I'll cut the slot after installation to get it in exactly the right place.

The seat has been scraped and sanded to provide fresh wood to help the hot hide glue bond the bridge to the top.

My bridge gluing fixture hard at work. I like to be able to clamp up quickly when working with hide glue and then add pressure to the wings of the bridge soon afterward.

The finished bridge and splint, looking just like they should.

The long, through saddle isn't stock for a '66 but I think it makes for a better sounding instrument and just plain looks great, so we went with it.

After the neck reset, new bridge & saddle and complete re-fret, this guitar has a loud and crisp voice and is easy to play.

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