Day 5

Day 5

We leave Grand Junction and head east for a short distance on I-70 and exit onto Colorado Hwy 65 to take a 10 mile ride through a steep walled canyon filled with S-curve after S-curve. This route along the Plateau Canyon is 20 or so enticing curves snaking back and forth, back and forth, delivered in a sweet package of river and rock wall accompaniment. There is a rhythm to it, and when you are on a bike it is almost like you are singing a song in harmony with someone else. You find the right tempo, the perfect rpms and gear, and you can keep it unchanged as you sing the entire length.

On our approach from the western side of the canyon, the Plateau River cuts deeply and dramatically into the rocks before it flows into the Colorado River. The gorge is deeper, the rock walls more intimidating, and you feel ant like in size as you follow the paved road through the granite cliffs.

Soon enough Hwy 65 turns south and so do we as we take a 40 mile traverse of the world’s tallest flat top mountain, with curves winding around and between beautiful mountain lakes. The Grand Mesa Scenic Byway which we will be traveling over, towers over the city of Grand Junction, one mile lower and to the west. There aren’t many places offering the diversity that the Grand Mesa presents, with immense stands of aspen, and 300 crystalline lakes that sparkle in the sun. As our wheels spin over the next 40 miles, we will pass through noticeable contrasts of climate, vegetation, and landscape.

We will enjoy a long sweeping ascent on finely cambered curves. Take a look back at our progress and our eyes will roam far and wide over the country below. As the terrain flattens out, we will know we’ve reached the top of the mesa and now can enjoy the tranquil ride among the lakes which dot this mesa.

We exit onto Colorado Hwy 92 and head west for a short ride to the town of Delta where we take US Hwy 50 south to Montrose. In the City of Montrose we head our bikes eastbound on Hwy 50 and travel towards the Blue Mesa Reservoir. For the next 38 miles we will gain 1,200 feet of elevation to the top of Cerro Summit, the first of several high mountain bumps, and like a big roller coaster for giants, the road winds down 1,000 feet before the next climb. The ups and downs continue as we will have two more summit tops to overpower before our first glimpses of the big BlueMesa Reservoir comes into view.

(IF we are running way ahead of schedule at this point and IF everyone wants to try a bit more daring ride we can take the east portal road down to the bottom of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. This ride brings us down 2,000 feet into the bottom of the Canyon with a series of twisting turns and some hair raising 16% grades. The road down to the bottom appears to have been recently repaved so it may not be as treacherous as some videos show it to be. The west portal road, which follows the rim of the south canyon walls, is also an additional option and would give us the opportunity for viewing the dark canyon from its many observation points. There will be a $7 fee to enter this National Park)

On the western edge of the reservoir we head our bikes north along Colorado Hwy 92. This is a premier 41 mile motorcycling road along the north rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison and will deliver an amazing buffet of riding delights to even the most discerning of ride connoisseurs. In 2012 we rode the southbound descent but the northbound ascent should be even more fun.

Motorcycle riding bliss begins immediately as the pavement closely sketches the edges of the drop offs and contours of the Black Canyon. The bends, creases, curves, and sweeps go on and on. And on. Since this is basically a road from one quiet place to another quiet place, there isn’t much “noise” from other vehicles. The features of this road, combined with its emptiness over many miles, is definitely a gift to motorcycle riders. As for its scenic attraction, glances stolen to the south reveal the deep gorges of the Gunnison River and they add extra dimension (literally) to the ride. There are several wide spots along the road to overlook the canyon and take photos.

The road does demand attention. Most of the curves and bends are clean, well cambered, and of a good and predictable radius. There are, however, two or three curves that can surprise us with their tightness, or with unexpected grit on the surface. We will have to keep that in the back of our minds as we ride.

When Hwy 92 flattens out at the top we continue our journey northward through the small town of Crawford and continue on to Hotchkiss. By this time it should be around lunch and I suggest the Hometown Café in Hotchkiss which in 2012 fed us a good home cooked meal and great homemade pie for desert!

With our bellies now full we head east on Colorado Hwy 133. First there is the 25 mile bliss of pavement north of the town of Paonia to the southern foot of the McClure Pass ascent. For the first 10 miles or so of curving valley riding, we will pass by some serious coal mining activity in the vicinity of Somerset. Then we will experience 15 miles of superb riding as we follow the outlines of the Paonia Reservoir. Traveling westbound on this route in 2012 it felt like we were slalom skiing as our motorcycles hugged the road around each curve.

We now enter the McClure Pass portion of this ride. The pass summit itself is rather ho-hum but soon after we crest the summit and begin our descent there are a couple of wide spots in the road which will allow us to turn off and view the dramatic panorama of the Crystal River Valley below us.

The rest of the ride to Carbondale has us within a deep valley with red rocks towering on each side of us. We pass near the ghost town of Marble where much of the special stone for the Lincoln Memorial and the Tomb of the Unknown Solider were mined. Also the town of Redstone with its beehive coke ovens used to transform raw coal into high grade coke needed for the production of steel.

In Carbondale we head north along Colorado Hwy 82 to Glenwood Springs were we find our lodging for the evening. Perhaps we can soak our tired bones in the City’s natural hot springs during the evening!

Day 5: 278 miles 6 hours saddle time (323 miles and 8 hours if we take in the Black Canyon South Rim ride)

Continue to Day 6