Day 4

Day 4

As we leave north out of Ouray, the fine Uncompahgre River brings us and our motorcycles to Ridgway where we turn our bikes westward onto Colorado Hwy 62. This northern 23 mile leg of the San Juan Skyway Scenic Byway delivers a sweeping journey over the modest Dallas Divide with very immodest views. The 10 mile climb to the Dallas Divide begins soon after we leave Ridgway on Hwy 62. The first 4 miles offers us a winding climb through a mosaic of small farms and pleasant fields. The next 6 miles serve up a broad ascent with postcard views of the jagged Sneffels Range growing in stature before us. The descent toward Colorado Hwy 145 is less airy, with tree covered valley slopes sneaking closer. Continuing west, and dropping in elevation, Leopard Creek joins the ride as it drains the higher flats and plateaus. The creek here has carved a valley deep and steep enough to earn the designation of Leopard Canyon, and as we motorcycling aficionados know, when a stream guides the way, and a canyon is involved, gratitude is sure to follow.

We turn our bikes south at the junction of Colorado Hwy 145 and take the short 15 mile ride to the National Historic District of Telluride and the ski slopes above. This Victorian town is set within a dramatic box canyon. An entertaining and breath-taking treat we discovered during out 2012 Motorcycle Trip is the FREE gondola rides to the top of some of the ski runs that overlook the City. We will again take a short tour of this town and its surrounding beauty.

As we leave Telluride we head back north along Colorado Hwy 145. Near Naturita we encounter Colorado Hwy 141 and embark along a special 90 mile Unaweep Tabeguache Scenic and Historic Byway journey through deep canyons and valleys and alongside streams and ranches, with a memorable community midway.

15 miles north of Naturita we’ll encounter the abandoned and mostly swept up Uravan town and mill site. Uravan (URAnium and VANadium), with 800 residents at one time, supplied milled ores for the country’s nuclear weapons research. The US Government closed the town in 1984 and removed all residents and dwellings so they could demolish all structures due to radioactive contamination in the area.

6 miles further down the road we come upon the Hanging Flume overlook with the visible remains of a “hanging” viaduct built in 1891 to carry water seven miles to various mines in the area. The flume, placed on the side of a sheer rock faces high above the river, and makes one consider the fortitude, if not the sanity of the suspended workers who constructed this viaduct!

The next 30 miles to the town of Gateway will be canyon riding at its finest. This long stint in the deep and narrow Dolores Canyon is distinct. Those in cars and trucks, as impressive as they think this chasm is, don’t know what they are missing by not experiencing it from a curve carving, open air, motorcycle in the shadows of thousand foot sandstone cliffs, sometimes only feet away from your throttle hand.

The town of Gateway is so named because it is the gateway to Utah which is just 4 miles away as the crow flies. While once a declining town it reversed its fortunes when the area was developed by John Hendricks, the founder of the Discovery Channel. The place is now like an oasis in the desert with resorts, stores, and a large car museum.

As we leave Gateway on our continued journey north we leave the shrubby scattered plant life and the red sandstone walls and climb 2,000 feet and say hello to more abundant greens beneath towering granite escarpments at a cooler 7,000 feet of elevation. We follow Wolf Creek and emerge at the modest Unaweep Divide. In another 20 miles we find ourselves on the Uncompahgre Plateau. Soon after we enter the park like Unaweep Canyon and for the next 30 miles enjoy the magic of this area and the riding and scenery that it gives us. In Whitewater we hit US Hwy 50 and head north towards Grand Junction. While Grand Junction is our stop for lodging for the evening we are not done riding yet!

When the Grand Junction area was first settled, many thought the sheer walled canyons towering above the area were inaccessible. Fortunately 100 years ago John Otto, a free spirit who lived year round in a tent in these canyons began exploring, building trails, mapping the geography, and promoting the grand beauty of this area. The rest they say, is history. Motorcyclists are among the many who can thank John Otto for his spirit of adventure and exploration as we explore the rock canyon scenery of the Colorado National Monument.

We enter the area from the east, the smooth paved road is determined to get us and our bikes up to 1,500 feet immediately to the plateau above the canyons. Say hello to a festival of ascending curves for the first 4 miles, and it is a very well-choreographed party with sandstone monoliths and outcropping in attendance to watch our progress. From end to end it is only 8 miles as the crow flies, but as the rider goes, it is almost three times as long! The advantage of course, is leaning our bikes into the seemingly endless variety and number of curves. The disadvantage is needing to avoid gazing at the airy spaces and deep drop offs so you don’t experience flying in a whole different way. The solution is to pull over at one of more than 19 signed and interpretive scenic viewpoints. We should set aside at least an hour for the 23 mile transit, and longer if stopping often, including the Saddlehorn Visitors Center.

Day 4: 248 miles 6 hours saddle time

Continue to Day 5