More Tools

The first of these two tools is a punch you can use to loosen the preload adjuster rings.  It can also be used to turn the adjuster rings.  You will need a piece of 5/16 inch round or square steel rod approximately 12 inches long.  On one end, cut or grind two flats at 45 degree angles to the length of the rod such that they form a 90 degree point in the center of the end of the rod.  This end will fit into the notches in the adjuster rings such that when the rod is struck with a hammer it will turn the ring without digging into the notches.  It works much better than a screwdriver or a chisel.

The final tool is made from a screwdriver.  It will serve as a pry bar to turn the adjuster rings, but it is NOT to be hit or struck.  You need a flat blade screwdriver with a 1/4 to 5/16 inch rod shaft approximately 8 to 10 inches long.  Clamp the screwdriver end in a vise, flat sides against the jaws, at approximately 1 to 1 ½ inches from the end.  Put a slight bend in the shaft. You will use this as a pry bar between the reservoir and/or frame tube and the end in the notches of the adjuster rings.  Then you can just pry the adjuster rings around to adjust preload.  You may have to play with the length and amount of bend you need, depending upon your make of bike.  Each make, model, and year has different space requirements.

Mark these tools and keep them together.  The next time your weight changes (maybe every two weeks?) you will have the right tools to both check and adjust race sag.

For a detailed description of sag settings, refer to my second column Race Sag and Spring Rates.

Remember to always use proper safety precautions and equipment including eye protection when drilling or cutting metal.