Bike Noise

Bike noise - clicks, creaks, clunking or rubbing sounds?

When you're out on the road without internet access, I've listed below some of the more common causes of bike noise. Bike noise (clicks, creaks, clunking or rubbing sounds) should not be ignored and one should pull over and exam the bike for problems, especially if you're interested in getting home or back to your car. Also see references below for extensive information when you return home

• 1. Noise Once every wheel rotation:

     1. 1. While braking:

           1. 1. Check the brake pads and wheel rims for dirt or tar. Remove or clean if possible.

              2. Check the rim for dents or bulges. If so, there's not much you can do but ride home. You'll need to replace the rim when you get back. If you continue to use a damaged rim, there's always the danger of the wheel collapsing, especially the newer and lighter rims. See if the bike noise disappears.

        2. While coasting:

• • • • • 1. Check that the odometer magnetic is not hitting the pick-up mounted on the fork. If so, adjust the pick-up.

          2. A small pebble caught in the tire tread may cause bike noise. Remove if possible.

          3. Check the wheels by picking up the front of the bike and spinning the front wheel (you can do the same for the rear). If the brake pads hits the rim once each rotation it's possible that the wheel was installed crookedly. Open the wheel quick-release, realign the wheel, pulling it snuggly into the drops of the fork or rear, and tighten the quick release.

          4. If the brake pad still hits the rim, carefully look at the wheel rim while spinning the wheel to see if it's out of true. If so, pull on each spoke to look for a broken or loose one. If a spoke is loose, there's not much you can do unless you have a spoke wrench and a lot of knowledge in how to true a wheel. If a spoke is broken, it can be wound around an adjacent spoke to get it out of the way. Open the brake quick-release lever enough so the pads don't hit and CAREFULLY ride home. Otherwise, use your cell phone or ask a buddy to bike back to his car and pick you up.

          5. Finally, check the tire for a bulge that may indicate it's about to blow. If found, don't ride! The tire has a defect and needs to be replaced. Time to call home or get someone to pick you up.

• 2. Noise Once every pedal revolution (i.e., once every time the pedals make a full rotation):

• • • 1. Clicks when in the big chain ring: Have a friend hold the back of the bike up and turn the crank. Shift to the big chain ring and smallest rear cog. Is the outer plate of the derailleur arm hitting the crank arm?

         1. 1. If so, shift to the small chain ring and turn the outer limiting screw (see our video on Chain Rub) clockwise just an eight of a turn.

            2. If not, you may have a loose pedal, loose chain ring bolts, loose crank fixing bolt, or loose bottom bracket. When you get home, tighten the pedals(Note: that the left pedal tightens counterclockwise and the left tightens clockwise) and tighten the chain ring bolts. If that does not cure the problem, check with your shop.

      2. Clicks, creaks or clunks noise in either chain ring occurring once per pedal rotation.

• • • • • 1. You may have a loose pedal: Tighten the pedal when you get home (Note: that the left pedal tightens counterclockwise and the left tightens clockwise).

          2. Loose chain ring bolts (these are the bolts that hold the chain rings on the crank spider): Tighten with an Allen wrench. If they don't tighten but still rotate, take to your shop which has a special tool to hold the bolt nut while tightening.

          3. Loose crank fixing bolt (these bolts hold the crank to the bottom bracket spindle on the older cotterless 3-piece cranks): The threads of the bolt or nut should be greased and tightened with a torque wrench to specifications. For most bikes, I suggest checking with your shop.

          4. Other causes include bad pedal bearings (borrow a set of pedals and see if the noise goes away), loose bottom bracket , or bent chain ring. Don't neglect these items since significant damage can occur, especially with a loose bottom bracket. Your shop can look over these items.

• 3. Noise Once every chain revolution (about every third time the pedals go around): Check the chain for a stiff link or bent or partially broken link. Have some one pick up the back of the bike while you turn the crank and shift to the smallest chain ring and smallest cog to give your chain the most slack. Now pedal backwards slowly and look at the chain.

• • • 1. If you note a stiff link, work the link by pushing on the chain from side to side to get it to "release" (see video Release a stiff link).

      2. If you find a bent or broken link and have a chain tool, the link can be removed and the chain put back together, but, be careful not to ride in the big chain ring and larger cogs now that the chain is shorter (or you'll lock-up the back derailleur and chain). Otherwise, time to call for help.

• 4. Noise About 8 or 10 times for each pedal revolution (a click): Pick up the back of the bike and spin the crank. Look at the rear derailleur jockey wheels (you know those small black wheel that are part of the rear derailleur). If the chain appears to jump on and off the jockey wheel, one of the teeth of the jockey wheel may be worn or broken. It'll need to be replace when you get home.

  5. Brake rubbing or screeching:

• • • 1. While braking: The brake pads are not "toed in" correctly. The screech is annoying but can wait until you get home. See "Brake Adjustment" under "Maintence Tips" or take the bike to your shop.

      2. While coasting: The brake caliper may be off-center. You may be able to push on the calipers to center the brakes. Otherwise, pull out your multi-tool, loosen the brake caliper bolt using a 5mm hex inserted through the center hole in the brake bridge or fork, position the caliper so the pads are an equal distance from the rim, and retighten the bolt while holding the brake calipers.

• 6. Noise From the handle bars: Creaking usually is noticed when climbing a steep hill where one pushes down hard on the pedals and pulls back on the handle bars. Make sure the handlebar binder bolts are tight using your multi-tool. If this doesn't do the trick, it is possible that the inside of the steer and the expander/wedge (on older bicycles) may need greasing or there is a crack in the handle bar itself. Check with your shop.

  7. Noise From the seat: The seat post may need to be re-greased (note: Carbon posts require a special grease) or the seat binder bolt may be loose. Much care must be given not to over tighten the bolt that hold the seat to the post. I've seen seat bolts break during a ride as a result of over tightening. Check with your shop.

  8. Constant and Miscellaneous Bike Noise:

• • • 1. Clicking or chain clatter when in the small chain ring: Hold the back of the bike up and turn the crank. Shift to the small chain ring and largest rear cog. Is the chain hitting the inner plate of the derailleur? If so, turn the inner limiting screw (figure 1) counter clockwise just an eight of a turn.

      2. Is your wheel installed crookedly. Check that the wheel is not rubbing against the frame's chain stays. Is one brake pad rubbing against the wheel rim. See brake rubbing above.

      3. Constant squeeking: Does your chain need oiling?

      4. Clicking from your front or back wheel unreleated to any of the above: Tighten the quick release (this will make it harder to close the lever). You may also need to lubricate the parts of the quick release and then tighten it, because if the small parts have become dry, that can cause clicks, too.

References:

• 1. Creaks, Clicks & Clunks...and things that go "bump" on your bike. From Sheldon Brown

  2. Bicycle Noise From Bicyclewebsite.com

  3. Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Glossary From Sheldon Brown

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