Scientific Name:
Eublepharis Macularius
Name Origin:
Eublepharis means “good eyelids”, because Leopard Geckos have eyelids; Macularius means “spotted”
Origin:
Asia (Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Iran and Iraq)
Native Habitat:
Dry and rocky grassland and desert regions
Appearance:
The wild color is yellow with different patterns of dark pigment.
The hatchlings are striped and gradually lose the stripes as they grow.
Leopard Geckos are one of the few types of lizards that have eyelids.
Their ears are covered with a tympanic membrane that protects it.
They have no adhesive toe pads like other types of geckos, but do have claws on their toes.
Size:
Hatchlings are about 2.6 to 3.3 inches in length.
Adults are usually between 7 to 10 inches in length.
Weight:
Hatchlings are about 3 grams.
Adults are usually between 50 to 70 grams.
Life Span:
20 years with proper care
Behavior:
Nocturnal, terrestrial species. They shelter in cool caves during the day and are active as dust falls.
Social Structure:
Males fight with each other, but do well with one or more females .
Terrarium Type:
Desert terrarium with rock piles and hiding place to crawl into.
Terrarium Size:
10-15 gallon tank is a good size for one gecko.
20 gallon tank is good for 2-3 female geckos or a breeding group of 1 male and 1-2 females.
It should have a screen top to prevent any escapes or visitors.
Heating:
The best temperature in the hot side of the terrarium is 86 to 90 F.
The air temperature of the room where the terrarium is should be above 70 degrees.
The best way to heat your Leopard Gecko terrarium is by using an undertank heating pad or tape.
One end of the cage should be heated. This allows for a temperature variation that your gecko needs: hearted and cool.
Heat rocks are too hot for Leopard Geckos and shouldn't be used.
Substrate:
Paper towels, Reptile carpet, Flat stones.
Any loose substrates that Leopard Gecko can ingest (as sand and fish tank gravel) are not safe and shouldn't be used.
They can be extremely harmful to the gecko digestive system.
Food:
Leopard Geckos are insectivores; in the wild they feed on insects, worms and spiders.
The best diet includes live crickets, mealworms, superworms, silkworms and roach nymphs.
Waxworms may be given as treats.
All insect food should be "gut loaded" (with sliced potatoes, grapes, apples, carrots, bananas, etc.) for at least 24 hours before feeding them to the gecko. It's also important to dust the feeders with calcium.
Do not feed Leopard Gecko anything larger than about 3/4 the size of its heads to prevent choking.
Water:
Fresh water must be available all the time. A water dish should be shallow and stable.
Supplements:
Vitamin and Calcium supplements are mandatory to ensure Leopard Gecko health.
Dust crickets and mealworms before feeding in a calcium powder and put a dish with the calcium powder into the terrarium.
Handling Your New Gecko:
The change in environments can be stressful for geckos, so the best thing to do is to give your new gecko some time.
Don't hold the gecko for a couple of days and leave it alone to reduce stress, so the gecko can get used to her new habitat.
Leopard Gecko cool facts:
Leopard Geckos are capable of vocalizing: their repertoire of squeaks and clicks is most often voiced by sparring males
Many geckos don't have eyelids, but Leopard Geckos do have them.
Leopard Geckos can release and regenerate their tails. Although, the regrown tail is not identical to the original.
When mating, hunting or defending territory Leopard Geckos shake their tails.
Their tail is filled with fat and they munch on it when they can't find food.
Leopard Geckos eat their shed skin to recycle and retain minerals and vitamins.
The gender of Leopard Geckos is determined by incubation temperature. If the temperature in the incubator is set to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, then most hatchlings will be females. At 90 degrees Fahrenheit most hatchlings will be males. An incubation temperature of 85 degrees Fahrenheit can produce almost an equal number of males and females.