Leopard Gecko Guide
 
 
 Scientific Name:

 
 Eublepharis Macularius
 
 Name Origin:

 
 Eublepharis means “good eyelids”, because Leopard Geckos have eyelids; Macularius means “spotted”
 
 Origin:

 
 Asia (Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Iran and Iraq)  
 
 Native Habitat:

 
 Dry and rocky grassland and desert regions
 
 Appearance:

 
 The wild color is yellow with different patterns of dark pigment
 The hatchlings are striped and gradually lose the stripes as they grow
 Leopard Geckos are one of the few types of lizards that have eyelids
 Their ears are covered with tympanic membrane that protect it

 They have no adhesive toe pads like other types of geckos, but do have claws on their toes
 
 Size:

 
 Hatchlings are about 2.6 to 3.3 inches in length
 Adults are usually between 7 to 10 inches in length

 
 Weight:

 
 Hatchlings are about 3 grams 
 Adults are usually between 50 to 70 grams

 
 Life Span:

 
 20-25 years with proper care
 
 Behavior:

 
 Nocturnal, terrestrial species; they shelters in cool caves during the day and active as dust falls 
                                 
 Social Structure:

 
 Males fight with each other, but doing well with one or more females

 
 Terrarium Type:

 
 Desert terrarium with rock piles and hiding place to crawl into
 
 Terrarium Size:
 
 10-15 gallon tank is good size for one gecko
 20 gallon tank is good for 2-3 female geckos or a breeding group of 1 male and 1-2 females
 It should have a screen top to prevent any escapes or visitors
 
 Heating:
 
 The best temperature in the hot side of the terrarium is 86 to 90 F
 The air temperature of the room where the terrarium is should be above 70 degrees
 The best way to heat your Leopard Gecko terrarium is by using an undertank heating pad or tape 
 Lamp may be used as a source of heating too
 One end of the cage should be heated. This allows for a temperature variation that your lizard needs:
 hearted and cool
 Heat rocks are too hot for Leopard Geckos and shouldn't be used

 
 Substrate:

 Paper towels, Reptile carpet, Flat stones  
 Any loose substrates that Leopard Gecko can ingest (as sand and fish tank gravel) are not  recommended
 They can be extremely harmful to gecko digestive system

 
 Food:
 
 Leopard Geckos are insectivores; in wild they feed on insects, worms and spiders 
 The best diet includes live crickets, mealworms, superworms, silkworms and roach nymphs 
 Waxworms may be given as treats
 All insects food should be "gut loaded" (with sliced potatoes, grapes, apples, carrots, bananas, etc.) 
 for at least 24 hours before feeding them to the gecko
 It's also important to dust the feeders with calcium
 Do not to feed Leopard Gecko anything larger than about 3/4 the size of its heads to prevent choking

 
 Water:

 
 Fresh water must be available all the time
 A water dish should be shallow and stable

 
 Supplements:
 
 Vitamin and Calcium supplements are mandatory to ensure Leopard Gecko health
 Dust crickets and mealworms before feeding in a calcium powder and put a dish with the calcium   powder into the terrarium

 
 
      Leopard Gecko cool facts:

  • Leopard Geckos are capable of vocalizing: their repertoire of squeaks and clicks is most often voiced by sparring males.

  • Many geckos don't have eyelids, but Leopard Geckos do have them. They
  • Leopard Geckos can release and regenerate their tails. Although, the regrown tail is not identical to the original.

  • When mating, hunting or defending territory Leopard Geckos shake there tails.
  • Their tail is filled with fat and they munch on it when they can't find food.
  • Leopard Geckos eat their shed skin to recycle and retain minerals and vitamins.
  • The gender of Leopard Geckos is determined by incubation temperature.     If the temperature in incubator is set on 80 degrees Fahrenheit, then most hatchlings will be females. On 90 degrees Fahrenheit most hatchlings will be males. An incubation temperature of 85 degrees Fahrenheit can produce almost an equal number of males and females.