Assessing restoration and conservation in Banganga:
Balancing heritage and urban development in Walkeshwar
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Banganga Walkeshwar, located in Mumbai, is a historic religious precinct revered for its sacred tank and ancient temples. This precinct holds profound religious importance and is a magnet for devotees and tourists alike. The city’s response to Banganga often mirrors broader topics of urban development and preservation, highlighting a tension between the idea of modernization and the conservation of sacred spaces. This paper aims to analyze how restoration projects at Banganga are critical in this context, with their success or failure offering insight into how Mumbai navigates its historical legacy amidst rapid urban change.
Source: Illustrator Manali Jain
HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE
Banganga, a Hindu pilgrimage site, gained its religious importance due to a local mythological story: the tank was created when Lord Rama and Laxman stopped by in search of Sita. To quench their thirst Laxman shot an arrow in the ground which instantly resulted in water gushing out of the ground. Creating a tributary of the river Ganges, hence the tank was named, Banganga. ‘Baan’ translates to arrow and ‘Ganga’ as the sacred river of Ganges.
Similarly, Walkeshwar gets its name from Walukeshwar (‘Walu ke Ishwar’- Lord of the sand- Lord Shiva’s temple), while the Malabar hill gets its name from Malabaris, people from Konkan and Kerala who used to visit Banganga. Archaeological evidence dates Banganga and the Walkeshwar Shiva Temple to 1127 AD. Both were built during the Silhara dynasty. During this time, the village of Walkeshwar was inhabited by a diversity of indigenous communities, fisherfolk, and a floating population of pilgrims and holy men.
GEOGRAPHICAL CONTEXT
The temple precinct currently consists of- a stepwell tank, which is surrounded by 108 temples (of Shiva, Ganesh, and other Hindu deities including Walkeshwar temple, Shree Kashi math, Shree Kaivalya math, Parshuram temples etc), some of which are in the residential spaces as well, These are owned by Saraswat brahmin communities which has been residing there for generations. All of them reside in their temple residencies, in the periphery of the tank. These residencies have a temple room open for all, their private rooms inside and two crematorium grounds in the surroundings (Samadhis built in 1775).
Source: Author
RESTORATION & RESPONSE TO THE CITY
Historians claim that the tank has gone through several alterations in the past 850 years. The Portuguese, who arrived in the seven islands in the 16th century, regularly raided and desecrated sites of worship like the Walkeshwar Temple. As a result, much of the village’s indigenous population moved away, and the tank and the temples fell into disrepair during Portuguese rule. It was with the island’s English occupation that native communities gradually moved back to the site and leading Hindu merchants helped in its repairs and expansion. By the 1860s, there were nearly 20 temples around the tank and as many as 50 dharamshalas or boarding houses in the complex. Visiting pilgrims stayed at these dharamshalas, which were typically attached to private homes in the village. A Banganga Conservation Committee was formed by the city government and Walkeshwar’s ward office to make the tank people-friendly, level the streets around it and keep the ghat clean. However, the tank and its surroundings have fallen into disrepair through neglect, despite some attempts by private citizens, private temple trusts, conservationists, and the government to preserve and restore it. Most of these initiatives were piecemeal, only repairing certain parts of the tank or a few temples at a time.
Source: The culture project, medium
CONTEXTUAL CHANGE (then/now)
Over the years, many of the temple residences have been renovated and hence the variety of wooden, RCC and steel structural systems, both hidden and exposed, are seen in the surroundings. The new construction is taking over the old heritage buildings slowly but steadily, although the whole vibe of heritage remains intact, due to religious continuity seen in the sentiments of people, that has been carried down for generations. It houses Hindu Pujaris (Priests), whose younger generations have now started pursuing different occupations as well while taking care of the temples. The dense temple complex is surrounded by high-rises from all sides and new future developments are on the verge of taking place, creating a threat to the existing heritage factor of the precinct. But the precinct doesn’t fail to preserve its unique identity, although located right in one of the very prestigious and prominent urbanized areas of the city. Instead, it brings stillness to the otherwise fast-paced city. Where else in Mumbai can you see kids playing around carefree, adults busy with their prayers while others are playing Indian poker (Jugaar) in the gullies? It carries the signs of its age and lifestyle while adapting to the fast city. Despite preservation efforts, the rapid pace of urbanization poses ongoing challenges. Encroachment, pollution, and infrastructure development continue to threaten the integrity of the Banganga precinct.
In sum, the Banganga precinct is a testament to Mumbai’s rich historical and cultural heritage, standing out as a significant site amidst the city’s pace. Mumbai's response to the precinct involves a multifaceted approach that includes government regulation, community engagement, and heritage tourism. While challenges persist due to urban pressures, ongoing efforts to preserve and celebrate Banganga illustrate the city’s commitment to maintaining its historical legacy amid contemporary growth.
Source: The culture project, medium
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