During these days of staying inside, the armchair traveler within us all begins to stir. Traveling, whether in-person or virtually, is a wonderful practice to promote positive aging. We’ll take several trips together this fall in Rediscovering San Diego.
This week takes us to the state of Hawaii and the island of O’ahu. Why O’ahu, you may ask?
The first reason is that I (Emily) lived there from 2008-2012 when I worked at University of Hawaii, W. O’ahu campus. As director of the university’s Writing Center, I got to know and appreciate the people I worked with, as well as the beautiful terrain and wonderful customs. And let’s not forget the astounding variety of food in the Pacific Island cuisine!
This leads to the second reason: with its remote location, Hawaii is a tropical world unto itself, and remains a haven to appreciate and explore. It is one of the most popular U.S. travel destinations, and is a top choice for Japanese tourists as well.
Many people have chosen Hawaii as a special destination for honeymoons, weddings, family gatherings, and business conventions (though not this year). How about you—have you been to Hawaii? Or have you been to Hawaii recently?
Here’s an opportunity to discover or re-discover a special place in America that is known for the pleasure and happiness it brings to those who visit or live there. This short visit (I pared it down to just four stops) shares with you some Hawaiian wonders that you’ll appreciate, beginning with a brief lesson in natural history.
Oahu means “The Gathering Place.” It is the third largest island, occupying about 600 square miles. It is indeed where the most people have “gathered” with a population of 1 million (that’s about two thirds of the population of the entire state). Most people live in Honolulu (Oahu, 2020).
The islands are actually a chain of volcanic islands stretching 1500 miles. Hawaii is located 3,500 miles from the U.S. mainland and 4,000 miles from Japan. It’s way out there!
Oahu was formed by two massive volcanoes that form the backbones of two mountain ranges: the Waianae and the Koolau (Oahu, 2020).
This short video does a good job of explaining the origins of Hawaii
Wikipedia tells us that Oahu is 44 miles long and 30 miles across and it has 227 miles of shoreline. People who live in Hawaii have their preferred territories. “Town” is considered the southern part of the island, the urban Honolulu side. West Oahu runs from Pearl Harbor to Kapolei. The North Shore (“Country”) includes the more rural beach and surf communities, and Windward includes the lush rainforest side and beach communities of Kailua and Kaneohe.
The human history of the Hawaiian islands dates back to 500 CE when it was settled by Tahitians. Captain James Cook sighted Hawaii in 1778. This opened the door for exploration and exploitation of Hawaii’s resources. When foreigners invaded, they brought disease and aggressive foreign species of plants and animals. It wasn’t until 1795 that the main islands were united by King Kamehameha I. The royal capital was established in Oahu by the mid 1800s. The royal family moved into the Iolani Palace in 1845. The Palace, now a stunning museum and historical archive, was home to King Kalakaua and his court (Hawaii, 2020).
A pivotal heroine in the Hawaii’s history was Queen Liliuokalini, the first female ruler of the Hawaiian islands before they were taken by the United States in 1898. Liliuokala was born into the royal family and educated at the missionary-run Royal School. She learned fluent English and musical training. She wrote poetry and music throughout her life, including 160 songs (one of which was “Aloha ‘Oe.”).
Liliuokalai ruled under her brother, King Kalakaua. She devoted her work to promote schools for Hawaiian children. While she was traveling abroad in 1887, an armed militia forced the king to sign a constitution that stripped the monarchy of its power.
She began her official rule in 1891, but there was much opposition to the monarchy by the U.S. government and other foreign interests. Although she fought the annexation of Hawaii, ultimately she abdicated the throne in 1895 (Liliuokalani Biography, 2020).
Watch this clip from a documentary about Liliuokalani
The abdication of Liliuokalani is not unique; many an indigenous leader has lost the fight for his/her people. But the queen’s legacy has not only survived but has grown deeper over the years.
Because of her devotion to her people and Hawaiian culture, the spirit of Hawaiian culture has been widely shared and appreciated. This spirit is embodied in the very word: Aloha.
It is a symbol of Hawaii that defies a pat definition; it’s a spiritual principle that lies at the heart of native Hawaiians. According to Aunty Pilahi Paki, a philosopher, poet, linguist, and educator, aloha is an attitude and a mindset.
According to Ae Luv Hula:
“To be in aloha is to be in the presence of life. To share your inner-most essence, being open and honest with humility. Aloha is accepting others for who they are and showing dignity to what they have to offer. Aunty Pilahi Paki wrote a law because she envisioned a twenty-first-century world in conflict and would look to Hawai‘i for healing. Aloha would be its remedy.”
The Aloha Spirit Law
A Akahai – meaning kindness (grace),
expressed with tenderness;
L Lokahi – meaning unity (unbroken),
expressed with harmony;
O‘Olu‘olu – meaning agreeable (gentle),
expressed with pleasantness;
H Ha‘aha‘a – meaning humility (empty),
expressed with modesty;
A Ahonui – meaning patience (waiting for the
moment), expressed with perseverance.
“There is a secret to the word Aloha,” wrote Pilahi Paki. “To truly live in the Aloha way or the Aloha spirit, you must apply all principles. Using one without the rest means you are not in the Aloha spirit.”
Appreciating hula is a good way to experience the Aloha spirit. While there are tourist-oriented hula demonstrations throughout O’ahu, it’s worthwhile to learn more about authentic hula. The next stop on this trip to Hawaii actually occurs on the Big Island (Hawaii) during the Merrie Monarch Festival.
The Merrie Monarch Festival occurs each spring. It is a week-long hula competition that is a central event throughout the state. The event commemorates King David La’amea Kalakaua (who served 1874 to 1891). He was the “Merrie Monarch,” so named because of his personality and love of fun, dance, and music.
Yet there is a deeper legacy left by the king. At the time of his reign, the Hawaiian people were controlled largely by foreigners. Prevalent Christian missionary teachings did not allow expression of native Hawaiian traditions or beliefs. The king and his wife, Queen Kapi’olani, encouraged Hawaiians to have pride in their arts, music, and other traditions, including hula. The royalty had a motto: ““Hoʻoūlu Lāhui,” Increase the Nation. That sentiment is stronger than ever in 2020.
The Merrie Monarch website explains that Ancient Hawaiians had no written language, but used oral traditions like chant and hula to record such things as genealogy, mythology, history, and religion. Hula was one way culture was expressed and chronicled. The King not only relied on these traditional forms of documentation, but during a time of heightened literacy in the islands, Kalākaua spoke with kūpuna, elders, eventually compiling their stories into a book, “Legends and Myths of Hawaii.”
By supporting the practice and expression of Hawaiian knowledge, Kalākaua ensured that future generations would inherit a robust Hawaiian heritage.
The first Merrie Monarch festival was held on the King’s 50th birthday in 1886. Every year since, there is a festival which included dance competitions, music, and crafts. It is a celebration of Hawaiian culture—and pride.
Hawaiian hula is accompanied by song or poetry called mele. The movements of hula tell the story of the mele. Hula can be performed by almost anyone: men, women, and children have their own versions of this artform. But learning hula is a very specific, and arduous process. A “hālau hula” is a hula school that teaches not just hula moves but a foundation for understanding the artform. It teaches Hawaiian history, some language, costume, and other implements.
There are countless hula schools throughout Hawaii. Often children enroll at a young age and continue their study through teen years and beyond. Hula requires grace, muscle control, coordination and discipline, as well as appreciation of the most sacred teachings of ancient Hawaiian beliefs.
Watch some hula videos from the Merrie Monarch celebration...
On a different note, Hawaii was the site of a horrific wartime event we can never forget.
One of the reasons the United States wanted to annex the island of Hawaii was to utilize its strategic position in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. By 1887 the U.S. had exclusive rights to Pearl Harbor, and it was established as a naval station in 1908. Today all branches of the military have many bases in Hawaii.
The Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor claimed the lives of more than 1,100 military personnel and civilians. More than 20 ships and 300 airplanes were destroyed, as were the docks and airfields. The attack on Pearl Harbor shocked the nation and united the country in its determination to join the war (Pearl Harbor, 2020).
When you return to Hawaii, be sure to visit Pearl Harbor (and most tours combine this with a visit to the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific in Punchbowl crater). This is a moving commemoration to those who died in the armed forces. There are more than 34,000 graves in the cemetery.
Finally, on a happier (and tastier) note, Hawaiians on all islands take pride in their delicious cuisine. Barbeque chicken, pork, and beef are common (often cooked up on elaborate grills that local people schlep right into their favorite beach park). You might find yourself in an analytical conversation (or arguments) about where to get the best plate lunch (grilled protein served with scoop of rice and another scoop of macaroni salad), lau lau (read below to learn more) or shave ice.
The ingredients that go into traditional Hawaiian food reflects what grows, swims, or is raised in Hawaii. Most of the food you’ll find is a hybrid of Hawaiian combined with other ethnic styles, such as Korean, Chinese, and Filipino.
Fish is of course a mainstay of the Hawaiian diet, and poke is readily available (even at places like 7-11 and Costco). Ahi tuna is delicious and plentiful in the Hawaiian waters. Other incredible fish from the region include miso butterfish, mahi mahi, and ona.
Other favorites (from Onolicious Hawaii):
Lau lau is steamed lu’au and ti leaves filled with fish and fatty pork. You find this dish at luaus.
Poi is made of steamed, mashed taro root. To the undiscerning palate it seems quite plain, but it is a delicacy to many and a diet staple.
Saimin is the Hawaii version of ramen. Wheat noodles are served in a fish broth. Toppings include char siu, green onions, and fish cake.
As for sweets, my favorite is mochi, a soft chewy confection made of rice flower. This sweet is originally from Japan, but Hawaiians have created a delicious new version featuring filled mocha balls with peanut butter, chocolate, coconut, and other flavors.
Hawaiian shave ice is another local favorite (originating from Japan). It is simple ice finely shaved off a block (unlike it’s American cousin, the snow cone), but Hawaii uses local flavors. Like mango, pineapple, coconut, and of course sweetened condensed milk makes everything a little more tasty.
Photo by Pixabay
Blogger Mark Noguchi points out: “Hawaii consumes 7 million cans of Spam a year and there are only 1.42 million of us currently living in the islands—let that sink in a little bit. Nonetheless, Spam is both a blessing and a curse to Hawaiian cuisine.”
Noguchi goes on to explain that during World War II, Hawaii was in a war zone with blackouts, food restrictions, and food rationing. Spam was one of those rations. According to Noguchi, during the war people were afraid that food shipments would stop, so they hoarded Spam. Spam is a nonperishable product with an indefinite shelf life made from pork, potato starch, sugar, salt, and sodium nitrate. Spam Musubi is perhaps the most common Spam product (available in every convenience store or ABC store). It is cheap and versatile, and all too tasty.
Hopefully you’ve found this quick, 4-stop trip to be a refreshing diversion. Learn, dance, remember, and eat: Keep Hawaii on your “Must See” or “Must Re-visit” list!
References
Ae’ luv hula (2010). Retrieved from http://www.aeluvhula.com/true-meaning-of-aloha/
Hawaii. (2020). Retrieved from https://www.britannica.com/place/Hawaii-state/History
Iolani Palace (2020) .Retrieved from https://www.iolanipalace.org/history/a-place-for- royalty/
Liliuokalani Biography. 2020. https://www.biography.com/royalty/liliuokalani
Merrie Monarch Festival. 2020. Retrieved from https://www.merriemonarch.com/
Noguchi, M. (2016). The history behind why Hawaii is obsessed with Spam. Retrieved from https://www.vice.com/en_us/article/mgx7yx/why-hawaiians-are-utterly-obsessed-with-spam
Oahu (April 2020). Retrieved from https://www.britannica.com/place/Oahu
Pearl Harbor. 2020. Retrieved from https://www.history.com/topics/world-war-ii/pearl-harbor