For this week’s assignment, I’m designing a creative and functional pen and pencil holder. The concept is to create a modular organizer that consists of at least two parts, combining laser-cut wood with optional 3D-printed elements.
I care about this design because I love making things that combine functionality with personality. This design reflects something playful and heartwarming, a cat shape that adds character to a regular desk organizer.
It also makes daily items like pens and glasses easier to access in a fun and organized way.
My main inspiration comes from these adorable images
3D: Cura
2D: LaserWorkV6
3D: Filament PLA
2D: Play Wood 3mm
Tools to Join the parts together: M3 Screws & Nuts
LaseWorkV6
Malky ML96
Plywood 3mm
M3 Screws & Nuts
Screwdriver
The Bottom
1- I started with rule number 0: save my project
2- Then, I created the first component of my project, the bottom part.
3- I selected the appropriate plane (the Top) and began sketching
4- Drawing a rectangle with dimensions of 130 × 100 mm.
My design idea was to divide it into three sections: a box for pens, in front of it a mobile holder (the paws part), and beside that a sticky notes holder.
To achieve this:
5- I placed a point on the left side of the rectangle, 30 mm from the bottom edge. This point marked the outline of the box section.
6- Then, I drew a horizontal line to separate the section from the rest of the design and made sure the sketch was fully defined.
Now, for the slots:
1- I drew a small rectangle on the right side of the bottom sketch with dimensions of 3×10 mm positioned 3 mm from the edge.
2- Then, I drew a circle for the screw hole with a diameter of 3 mm.
3- The center of this circle was positioned 4.5 mm from the right side and aligned with the center point I had created on the small rectangle and placed at the midpoint between the top and bottom edges of that rectangle, 50 mm from each.
4- For the second slot, I used the Mirror tool.
5- I first drew a centerline to serve as the mirror line, passing through the circle’s center point, and then applied the mirror command.
6- Finally, I fully constrained the sketch by setting the distance between the rectangle and the circle.
I needed four of these slots, So I used the Circular Pattern tool.
1- First, I created a center point in the rectangle to serve as the axis of the pattern (50 mm from each side).
2- Then, I went to Create → Circular Pattern
3- Selected the objects (the two rectangles and the circle).
4- Set the center point as the Circular Point, set the quantity to 4 and applied the pattern, making sure everything was fully constrained.
1- I repeated the same slot pattern using the exact dimensions.
2- Then mirrored it to the opposite side.
3- Once the mirrored pattern was in place, I extruded the shape to bring it into 3D form.
The Paws
1- I created a new component named Paws.
2- I started a sketch inside the rectangle.
3- I began with two vertical lines, connected them with an arc, and closed the outline to form the paw shape.
4- Next, I added the T-slot (two intersecting rectangles, 5×2.4 mm and 8×3 mm) and positioned two pins (3×10 mm) 5 mm away from the T-slot
5- I then mirrored them to the opposite side.
6- Finally, I extruded all the shapes.
7- Of course, the design was checked to ensure it was fully constrained
The Front Side & The Back Side
1- I created a new component named Front Side.
2- Sketched a (100×100mm) rectangle.
3- I added an X-slot (3×50mm, covering half the edge) positioned 3mm from the edge.
4- Then I mirrored it to the opposite side.
5- I drew a T-slot at the bottom center of the rectangle, using the same dimensions as before (two intersecting rectangles: 5×2.4mm and 8×3mm).
6- Then I placed two pins (3×10 mm) 5mm from the T-slot.
7- Make Sure The sketch was fully constrained
8- Then I Extrude it.
9- I duplicated the Front Side component to create the Back Side component.
The Right Side & The Left Side
1- For the Right Side component, I followed the same steps as the Front Side.
2- with the only difference being that the X-slot was positioned in the opposite direction, starting from the bottom instead of the top.
3- I then duplicated this component to create the Left Side.
The Sticky Notes Holder
For the sticky notes' holder.
1- I edited the bottom sketch by adding a (100×90mm) rectangle.
2- I fully constrained it by making it coincident with the first rectangle.
3- Then I Extrude it in 3mm.
Joints
All the pieces I created were not connected to each other, so I added joints, connecting all sides to the grounded bottom.
Bracket
1- I added the bracket I had made earlier by inserting it into the design.
2- Breaking the link so I could make changes without affecting the original version.
3- Then, I edited the bracket sketch to set its angle to 70 degrees.
4- After that, I edited the bottom sketch again to add a 3mm diameter hole for connecting the bracket.
5- I fully constrained the hole by setting its position 8mm from the top and 45 mm from both the right and left sides.
6- Next, I edited the extrusion to create the hole.
7- Then I made joints to connect the bracket and the bottom.
8- At this stage, the bracket needed repositioning, so I rotated it to fit into the correct position.
Sticky notes holder back
1- I started a new component and created a sketch on the front side of the bracket.
2- I drew a (70×80mm) rectangle.
3- I extruded it (3mm)
4- Then I created a joint between this component and the bracket.
The Support
1- I started a new component and created a sketch on top of the bottom part.
2- I drew a (3×80mm) rectangle and extruded it to (15mm).
3- Then, I projected the sketch to create the T-slot and extruded it.
4- Next, in the bottom sketch, I drew two rectangles and a circle, fully constrained them.
5- I extruded the Bottom again.
6- Finally, I created joints to connect the support to the bottom.
I added fillets to enhance the design’s appearance
Artistic Touches
The Paws
I went back to the paws to add some realistic touches.
1- I edited the sketch
2- drew ellipses for the cat’s paw prints.
3- I made mirror for the other side
4- Then I made an extrude cut
It was very challenging to make these ellipses fully constrain, so I choose to use Fix Feature in this case
The Head & Ears
1- I edited the front sketch and drew a circle in the top.
2- Making it fully constrained by setting it coincident with the top point of the front rectangle.
3- Then, I drew arcs for the ears and fully constrained them by making them coincident with the top of the head circle.
4- Finally, I made a 3 mm extrusion for all.
The sticky notes back
1- I used the same paw sketch.
2- I selected it.
3- copied
4- pasted
5- Then I made an extrude cut.
Export all Files
DXF Files (Front & Back, Right Side & Left Side, Paws, Bottom, Sticky Notes Back, Support)
STL Files (Bracket)
For the cat’s face, I saved the sketch separately (Because I got a lot of challenges in that part).
In Laser Work & Cura Software
For the laser cutting
1- I imported the pen holder dxf files into the laser cutting software.
2- I set the cutting settings for the parts to be processed with the laser cutting machine.
The Cut layer was configured with a cutting speed of 20.0 mm/s and a power of 70.0% to cut the outline shape of the glasses.
For scanning, I used a speed of 300.0 mm/s and a power of 35.0% for the small part in the guitar.
For the engraving, I set the speed to 200.0 mm/s and the power to 30.0% for the wire's lines.
I Chooses these values to ensure a clean and efficient cut and engraving process through the material.
3- Then I saved the file in rld format
For the Bracket
1- I opened the STL file using Ultimaker Cura software.
2- Then repositioned the Bracket to lie flat on the build plate. This way, the printing process would be faster and wouldn’t require any supports
3- After that, I proceeded to slice the model in order to calculate key information such as the estimated print time, the required length of PLA filament, and the final weight of the printed object.
4- Then, I adjusted essential settings such as layer height, print speed, and infill density.
I selected the Super Quality resolution, set the infill density to 20%, and chose a Triangles infill pattern.
5- And NO Supports Needed 😁👌
6- Then, I sliced the design to display the layers and infill.
7- I saved the file in .gcode format, making sure to name it with all the relevant details, including the estimated print time, the weight in grams of PLA filament required, and the total length of filament to be used
1- First, I placed the plywood sheet on the machine.
2- I set the focus using a prepared wooden circle piece.
3- I connected my laptop to the laser cutting machine via a USB cable.
4- I opened the file in laser work software, and pressed Download.
5- Next, on the machine, I pressed the File button.
6- Selected the RLD file from the list.
7- Set the origin point.
8- Checked the power settings.
9- I then pressed the Frame button to ensure the design would fit on the sheet and to determine exactly the cutting area (this step helps in organizing the process and preserving the remaining sheet for future use).
10- Finally, I pressed Start to begin cutting.
1- First, I took the G-code file I had saved earlier and copied it to the memory card used with the 3D printer.
2- I inserted the memory card into the correct slot on the machine.
3- Then used the control knob to select the file.
I pressed the knob to choose the Print option.
4- I scrolled it to find my file, selected it, and pressed again to start printing.
5- The machine then began heating the nozzle to 200 °C and the build plate to 50 °C before starting the print.
At the end-of-week session, our activity was to create a lantern using plywood and a bracket with a captive nut.
I learned how to approach the design in a different way than I was used to, which made the task both challenging and exciting.
Our instructor guided us on how to think about the design from the starting point.
He gives me valuable hints on how to assemble the nuts with the wood so that all the pieces could be joined together easily.
And, yes, again 🙄, I made supports inside the bracket that weren’t needed😅
Our instructor Hazem advised us not to do that for small pieces, as it takes a lot of time and effort to remove these supports after printing.
This collaboration and exchange of ideas helped me see new perspectives in problem-solving and assembly techniques, as well as in optimizing the printing process.
Always search. Every model we needed to simulate required knowing its dimensions. so, Google it! 😊 (always search).
Our instructor, Hazem, reminded us in every task: whenever we asked for the dimensions, he would simply say, "Search"
It’s such a simple thing, but we found ourselves needing it every time. 😁
While using the laser cutting machine, everything was going smoothly at first, until, suddenly, a fire flared up near the nozzle. The lab specialist quickly turned it off, and we paused the process for a while until he fixed the problem.
Unfortunately, not all the wooden pieces were cut perfectly after that. To finish the work, I had to use a manual cutter to complete the process.
Lesson learned: always keep an eye on the cutting process and be prepared for unexpected machine issues. If the cut isn’t clean, it’s sometimes faster to finish manually rather than restarting the machine.
1- I will apply what I learned by always planning my steps in advance.
2- Researching thoroughly before starting.
3- Never hesitating to ask about anything I don’t understand. These habits will help me work more efficiently and avoid unnecessary mistakes during the final project.
Designing under pressure 😅 unforgettable!
This was the most special (and challenging) part for me.
I usually prefer designing in a quiet environment with no strict time limits. But this week, like every week 😂 every activity had to be completed within a short timeframe, in a team, and in a lively (sometimes noisy) atmosphere😂. It pushed me out of my comfort zone, tested my focus, and improved my teamwork skills. 🙈
Overall, I learned so much from the challenges, and they made the process even more rewarding.
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