Inspiration Image
A Cool Guitar Glasses
As I searched for inspiration, I came across a pair of guitar-shaped glasses. The moment I saw them, I knew this was the perfect idea. It felt playful, musical, and totally fits the "funky" theme of the assignment. I loved how the guitar necks rise up like antennas, and the design overall breaks the usual style rules for eyewear.
So, I chose to recreate and customize that idea as my project for the week. I'm excited to see how it looks once it's fabricated!
3D: Cura
2D: LaserWorkV6
3D: Filament PLA
2D: Play Wood 3mm
Tools to Join the parts together: M3 Screws & Nuts
LaseWorkV6
Malky ML96
Plywood 3mm
M3 Screws & Nuts
Screwdriver
The Glasses Face
1- I started with a canvas, imported the image of the guitar glasses I had chosen as my reference. This image helped guide the overall shape and style of the frames.
2- Next, I resized the canvas to match the dimensions of real-life glasses, ensuring that the final product would be wearable and realistic in size.
3- Using arcs and lines, I began sketching over the reference image to recreate the outlines of the glasses. I carefully adjusted each part of the sketch and made sure that everything was fully constrained.
4- After that, I extruded the sketch to get a better idea of how the final shape would look.
5- In this part, I drew the hole for the glasses arm on one side.
6- Next, I used the mirror tool to copy it.
7- I extruded the design by 3 mm and made sure the sketch was fully constrained
The Arms
1- I created a new sketch (In the back side of the glasses face) for the left arm - the small piece that will connect the arm to the glasses face (Base)
2- I extruded the base shape.
3- Then I created a side sketch for the arm and extruded it into 3mm to complete the final part.
Split the body
Now I want to make the other arm, to do that:
1- I used the Split tool to divide the design into two separate bodies: the face and the arm
Mirror
2- After splitting the design into the face and arm, I used the mirror tool to duplicate the arm on the other side.
3- I selected the appropriate plane to serve as the mirror face (in my design, this is the plane defined by the Y and Z dimensions)
1- I changed the appearance of the model to visualize how it would look, the face was set to a wood style, while the arms were plastic.
2- I also added some fillets to the arms to give them a smoother and more refined finish
Preparing the Files for Printing
1- Export DXF for laser cutting
I exported the DXF file for the face to cut it using the laser cutting machine (Right Click on the Sketch >> Export DXF)
2- Save as Mesh
I saved the STL files for the arms to be printed using the 3D printer
In Laser Work & Cura Software
For the laser cutting:
1- I imported the face dxf file into the laser cutting software.
2- I set the cutting settings for the face part to be processed with the laser cutting machine.
The Cut layer was configured with a cutting speed of 20.0 mm/s and a power of 70.0% to cut the outline shape of the glasses.
For scanning, I used a speed of 300.0 mm/s and a power of 35.0% for the small part in the guitar.
For the engraving, I set the speed to 200.0 mm/s and the power to 30.0% for the wire's lines.
I Chooses these values to ensure a clean and efficient cut and engraving process through the material.
3- Then I saved the file in rld format
For the Arms
1- I opened the STL file using Ultimaker Cura software.
2- Then repositioned the arms to lie flat on the build plate. This way, the printing process would be faster and wouldn’t require any supports
3- After that, I proceeded to slice the model in order to calculate key information such as the estimated print time, the required length of PLA filament, and the final weight of the printed object.
4- Then, I adjusted essential settings such as layer height, print speed, and infill density.
I selected the Super Quality resolution, set the infill density to 10%, and chose a cubic infill pattern.
Additionally
5- I enabled support structures inside the holes of the arms to ensure proper printing in those areas, although it turned out that the supports were not necessary in this case, as the distance was very small. The design would print successfully without them, and this would also reduce the overall print time.
6- Then, I sliced the design to display the layers and infill.
7- I saved the file in .gcode format, making sure to name it with all the relevant details, including the estimated print time, the weight in grams of PLA filament required, and the total length of filament to be used.
The glasses face
1- First, I placed the plywood sheet on the machine.
2- I set the focus using a prepared wooden circle piece.
3- I connected my laptop to the laser cutting machine via a USB cable.
4- I opened the file in laser work software, and pressed Download.
5- Next, on the machine, I pressed the File button.
6- Selected the RLD file from the list.
7- Set the origin point.
8- Checked the power settings.
9- I then pressed the Frame button to ensure the design would fit on the sheet and to determine exactly the cutting area (this step helps in organizing the process and preserving the remaining sheet for future use).
10- Finally, I pressed Start to begin cutting.
The glasses arms
1- First, I took the G-code file I had saved earlier and copied it to the memory card used with the 3D printer.
2- I inserted the memory card into the correct slot on the machine.
3- Then used the control knob to select the file.
I pressed the knob to choose the Print option.
4- I scrolled it to find my file, selected it, and pressed again to start printing.
5- The machine then began heating the nozzle to 200 °C and the build plate to 50 °C before starting the print.
This week, I learned how to export DXF files more efficiently by adding the Laser Cut extension to Fusion, which allows me to export the files with all details correctly. My instructors helped me with that.
In my 3D design, I added supports in the holes of the glasses' arms, but the lab specialist told me they were not necessary because the space was very small.
When I wanted to cut the glasses on the laser cutting machine, I connected my laptop to the machine and opened the file, but it didn’t appear in the Laser Cut software workspace. I asked the lab specialist for help, and he repeated the same steps, but still no result 😅.
Then, he zoomed out the workspace and… yaaah!
The design was way outside the sketch area 😄 as if the glasses were shouting, 'We were born free'. It was such a surprising moment!
A glasses ones said: "We were born free"
I assembled the arms with the glasses' face using M3 screws and nuts
I gained many skills this week, but the most important one is the ability to set dimensions carefully.
This will help me ensure accuracy and precision in my final project, reducing errors and making the assembly process smoother.
This week, I discovered something really cool, how to work on the same project using separate devices and still bring it all together into one perfect piece. Our Batman bookmark is living proof 😄.
We split into two teams, and together decided Batman would be our hero for the challenge.
🔸 My team took on the 3D head design,
🔸 While the other team tackled the 2D flat body, cut with the laser machine.
Everything was going smoothly… until we hit a plot twist. The screw that was supposed to connect the pieces wouldn’t fit through Batman’s eyes, they were just too small! 😅
But instead of panicking, we got creative. We flipped the bookmark over and inserted the screw from the back.
And just like that — problem solved ✔️😁. Batman was ready for action, and we were pretty proud of our little victory.
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