This week, my idea is to design a fire safety mechanism that detects fire, extinguishes it, and gives an alert using a buzzer.
Fires can spread quickly and cause serious harm. A system that alerts and acts immediately can save lives and property.
I was inspired by automatic fire extinguisher balls and Arduino-based fire alarm projects. They showed me how simple sensors and mechanisms can be combined for safety solutions.
For this assignment, I used Tinkercad to design and simulate my circuit before physical implementation.
Tinkercad allows me to test the connections, components, and logic virtually, which helps in identifying errors early and saves time and materials before moving to real hardware.
Materials:
Mini breadboard
Buzzer
5V power adaptor
Jumper wires
Cardboard (to make a holder for the fan)
Fan (for extinguishing flames)
Switch
Breadboard, jumper wires, switch: for easy circuit assembly and testing.
Buzzer: to provide an audible fire alert.
Fan with cardboard holder: to physically extinguish the flames in a simple, low-cost way.
5V power adaptor: to safely run all components.
To prepare my assignment, I used TinkerCad to simulate and validate my electrical circuit before physical implementation. TinkerCad allowed me to test the interaction between components, ensure correct voltage values, and visualize the circuit layout.
Place a mini breadboard on the TinkerCad workspace.
Power Supply Setup:
Connect the positive terminal (+) of the 5V DC power supply to the common leg of an ON/OFF switch.
Connect the negative terminal (–) of the DC power supply to the breadboard ground rail (black line).
ON/OFF Switch:
Insert the ON/OFF switch across the central divider of the breadboard.
Connect one output leg of the switch to the positive rail of the breadboard.
This allows the switch to control power distribution to both output components.
Connect the Buzzer (Sound Output):
From the positive rail, use a jumper wire to connect to the positive (+) pin of the buzzer.
Connect the negative (–) pin of the buzzer to the ground rail.
Connect the DC Motor (FAN) (Movement Output):
Place the DC motor (fan) into the breadboard.
Connect the positive terminal of the motor to the positive rail.
Connect the negative terminal of the motor to the ground rail.
Parallel Circuit Justification:
The components (buzzer and DC motor) are connected in parallel, allowing both to receive full voltage and operate independently. This ensures optimal performance of both devices.
Voltage Justification:
A 5V power supply is selected to ensure both the buzzer and motor receive sufficient voltage for effective operation.
Simulation:
The circuit is simulated in TinkerCad to confirm correct connections and functionality before building the physical version.
Use a sturdy piece of cardboard as the mounting base for your circuit.
Fix the mini breadboard onto the cardboard using double-sided tape or hot glue to prevent movement.
Mark the positions for the buzzer, motor (fan), and switch on the cardboard for organized placement.
Use a 5V DC battery as the power source.
Connect the positive terminal (+) of the battery clip to the common leg of the ON/OFF switch.
Connect the negative terminal (–) of the battery clip to the ground rail (black line) of the breadboard.
The DC motor (fan) can also safely run at 5V (though some small DC motors can take 6–12V). Running it at 5V keeps it safe, prevents overheating, and still provides good rotation speed (here it’s ~9994 rpm).
Mount the ON/OFF switch into the cardboard (cut a small slit to insert it neatly).
Insert the switch legs across the central divider of the breadboard.
Connect one output leg of the switch to the positive rail of the breadboard.
This way, flipping the switch distributes power to both the buzzer and motor.
Fix the buzzer onto the cardboard with tape or glue for stability.
Use a jumper wire from the positive rail to the positive (+) pin of the buzzer.
Connect the negative (–) pin of the buzzer to the ground rail.
Mount the DC motor onto the cardboard (you can cut a slot or tape it securely).
Attach small fan blades to the motor shaft if required.
Connect the positive terminal of the motor to the positive rail.
Connect the negative terminal of the motor to the ground rail.
Parallel Connection: The buzzer and motor are wired in parallel, so both receive full voltage and operate independently without affecting each other.
Voltage Justification: A 5V battery ensures both the motor and buzzer operate efficiently.
Circuit on the Breadboard
I asked my peers for feedback when I noticed the buzzer’s sound was very low while using a 1KΩ resistor.
They suggested trying a 330Ω resistor to increase the volume.
After testing, I found the buzzer’s sound was still worse than expected.
Building on their suggestion, I experimented further and removed the resistor completely.
This solved the problem because the fan and buzzer were connected in parallel, and the resistor was unnecessarily limiting the current to the buzzer.
I helped my peers by sharing my results and explaining why the buzzer worked better without a resistor.
My peers helped me by suggesting alternative resistor values and encouraging me to test different options, which led me to the final solution.
1.
Initially, the buzzer did not work, even though it was wired properly according to the basic plan.
When the buzzer and LED were swapped, the LED stopped working while the buzzer worked instead.
This indicated a problem with how power was being distributed in the circuit, especially with component positioning.
2.
I used a voltage supply monitor (Avometer) in TinkerCad to observe current and voltage values.
I tested the circuit step by step by visually tracing the connections and checking the power flow through each component.
I identified the issue by changing the positions of the LED and buzzer and observing the behavior in TinkerCad.
This iterative testing helped narrow down that the issue was related to the position of the resistor in relation to the LDR and output devices.
3.
The final working solution was achieved by moving the jumper wire connected to Node A of the LDR before the resistor and connecting it to the LED.
This small change allowed the circuit to properly divide voltage and current between both outputs (LED and buzzer), making both work as expected.
The correction ensured a parallel configuration, maintaining voltage while allowing separate current paths.
4.
The key insight came from trial and error, and carefully observing the multimeter values.
This process showed that wire placement order with respect to components (LDR, resistor) directly impacted functionality.
No external help was used; instead, I relied on careful testing and logical debugging within TinkerCad.
Advice for Others:
Always check voltage and current readings while testing.
Be cautious of component order, placing wires before or after resistors and sensors like LDRs can affect functionality.
Test one component at a time to isolate issues.
Use simulation tools like TinkerCad to experiment before real-world implementation.
Challenge the Buzzer doesn't work.
When changed the location of the buzzer and LED, the LED stopped working and buzzer worked.
When changed the jumper wire connected with the node A of LDR to the LED to be before the resistor, everything worked well.
Difference between Anode and Cathode 7-Segment
I can use the skills and knowledge I acquired this week in my final project because I learned the difference between common-anode and common-cathode 7-segment displays, as well as how each type is connected. This understanding will help me select the correct configuration and establish accurate connections when I utilize a 7-segment display in my final project.
Key differences between Anode and Cathode 7-segment displays:
Common Anode (CA):
All the anode terminals of the LEDs are connected together.
To light up a segment, you connect its cathode to LOW (0V / GND).
Segments turn on with logic 0.
Common Cathode (CC):
All the cathode terminals of the LEDs are connected together.
To light up a segment, you connect its anode to HIGH (Vcc).
Segments turn on with logic 1.
Coolest thing I learned this week:
I learned how to connect a common-anode 7-segment display to show the number 7.
Something I will never forget from this week:
It was the first time during my diploma that I used Tinkercad completely on my own, and I managed to build the circuit so clearly and cleanly that it worked perfectly from the very first try.