Check whether the filament is moist before printing
Double check your RDworks version compatibility with the machine's device
TAKE SHOTS WITH A SINGLE ASPECT RATIO
Document WITH CAPTIONS on the spot
Name pics and videos descriptive names
I am trying to gaslight my siblings into liking the world of makers, this was a free board for them to pick whatever they would like to have (after my Dodecahedron wasn't approved because of the assignment requirement).
My sister is a finswimmer spending most of her time lately underwater. My brother is a bit into the world of making so I gave him the wheel (hope I didn't) and he chose - a robot skeleton cowboy holding a machine gun? No idea why but whatever it is that goes inside a 13-year-old head...
Laser cut tool chain, refer to references 2,3,4,5 in order left to right and top to bottom for images sources
3axis: opensource library to get a design ready for cutting
Cloudconvert: to change the .cdr extension to a .dxf recognizable by RDWorks
RDWorks V8: CAM software to prepare printing parameters
Laser cutter: execute the file
Clamps: hold the wooden sheet in place
Plywood 3mm sheets: it is compatible with the machine and creates decent parts
Why .plt works despite .rld incompatibility?
Too much details in the design, I previewed the printing and it was fine but I still wasn't sure if the machine would display this level of detail in this small scale
Press on the download button, watch out for ads!!
After downloading, turns it is a CorelDraw file (known from the .cdr extension) and I don't have a license so I needed to convert it to .DXF
For that, I used cloudconvert: https://cloudconvert.com/cdr-to-dxf
And viola, now change its name to something sensible to prevent the folder from turning into a chaotic collection of spells and wicked characters that drive you crazy when you need to reach a file quickly and the device is overheating
Thunder Laser isn't compatible with the software on the makerspace's laptop, so I needed to export my file to .plt "add more about why this one worked"
Operation parameters
Source for the laser cut file: Laser Cut Engraved Robot Cowboy Badge Coaster Wall Decor Free Vector cdr Download - 3axis.co
Bonus name cut because I was happy that the skull didn't burn
Timelapse of laser cutter
Final product
Thingiverse: free designs ready for printing
Cura: CAM software to prepare the printing parameters
PRUSA printer: excuting the file
PLA filament: plastic used to build the part
Print multi-colored parts
Edited: did in week 2!!
Download the file
Open in Cura
I am guessing this is an angle less than 50, that is why there is no support. By common sense though the is a very long hang, yes small angle but will definitely create moment. I will reduce the overhang angle
Adjust from settings
Notice that multiplying the infill by 4 didn't change the printing time. Maybe because as Ahmed Sami shared with us last session that the part is already small, so there is not much space inside for infill anyway
Adhesion accounted for two extra probably unneeded minutes
Turns out I couldn't see the supports because I hadn't previewed the file
Ready for machining! After checking the first few layers in preview
Operation parameters
Source for the 3D file: Freedive fin by stijnpeeters - Thingiverse
Partial timelapse of the printer with horrible quality
Final product
Heat gun used to enhance surface look
The fin had annoying white marks when I removed supports. I asked Eman -the specialist- and she recommended using the heatgun.
The supports of the fin were tricky. Tried to remove them with many tools. After a few trials, the heat gun worked!
After I cut the name on the back it left marks on the front. Power should have been reduced to 20 instead of 25
Eman taught me how to properly store the filament -by locking the end in these two holes. The reason is to prevent the filament from crossing and causing trouble when someone tries to reload it
Think about how the cutter and printer best used for the construction kit with the required quality for a nice fit
If you try to bend the filament and it breaks, it had absorbed moisture, and you need to de-moisturize before using -see the top filament.
If it bends and takes stress to deform, you are good to go -see the bottom filament.
[1] Fins image: https://www.scuba.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/scuba-snorkeling-fins-shutterstock_561798112-1.jpg
[2] 3axis for laser-cut ready files: https://cadcut.co/uploads/news/3axis.co-1.png
[3] Cloudconvert for converting across different extensions: https://cloudconvert.com/cdr-to-dxf
[4] CAM software for laser cutter: https://thunderlaser.co.uk/support/download/
[5] Laser cutter image: https://tse4.mm.bing.net/th/id/OIP.l1u6pY3-yNBQ1oodS7J4hgHaHa?rs=1&pid=ImgDetMain&o=7&rm=3
[6] 3mm plywood image: https://cf.shopee.com.my/file/40ed30b7818592393128bc4beab5d070
[7] Miro board for creating the charts: https://miro.com
[8] Thingiverse for 3D printing-ready files: https://www.thingiverse.com/
[9] PLA filament image: https://tse1.mm.bing.net/th/id/OIP.25zioP3EqjFkdJrYVMscZwHaHa?rs=1&pid=ImgDetMain&o=7&rm=3