This week's task what to use some of electronics in our kits to make a simple 2 output device, I care about this idea because I was staying up late and was too lazy to make a cup of tea.
I decided that the only solution is to waste 10x the amount of time by making an electric stirrer, cuz that what we call efficiency up in this journal.
For the software I used TinkerCAD to make and test the electric circuit online.
Materials and components used
Glue gun and glue sticks to fix pieces to cardboard
Sheesh Tawok sticks to add support and extend motor shaft
Cutter to cut cardboard and sticks
Cardboard to make the chassis of the project
Small screwdriver
Electrical components
Used various electrical components:
1x - 1k ohm resistor - Limit current across LED
2x - Alligator wires - Connect the switch with the breadboard
DC 9 Volt power supply - Power up everything
Jumper wires - Connect components on the breadboard
1x - Small breadboard - Acts as the common connection between components
1x - Green LED - Output to indicate the device is working
1x - DC motor - Main muscle of the project to stir the drink
1x - ON/OFF Switch - Control the circuit flow of electricity
1x DC power jack adapter
1k ohm Resistor
Alligator Wires
DC 9 Volt power supply
Jumper Wires
Mini Breadboard
Green LED
DC Motor
ON/OFF 3 PIN Switch
DC power jack adapter
Circuit Documentation
This circuit is built in parallel configuration, which means that the LED and DC motor are powered independently from the same voltage source. A switch is placed on the ground side of the circuit, so when the switch is closed, the current can flow and the circuit turns on.
A 1k ohm resistor is connected in series with the LED to limit the current, since the input supply voltage is 9V. This prevents the LED from burning out while still allowing it to light up properly. The DC motor is connected directly in parallel, receiving the same supply voltage.
1 × Switch – controls the ground connection and acts as the main ON/OFF control for the circuit.
1 × Resistor (1k ohm) – limits current to the LED.
1 × LED – indicator light to show when the circuit is active.
1 × DC Motor – powered in parallel with the LED
1 × Power Supply (9V) – provides the input voltage.
Simulation of the circuit:
I found one of the servo motor rotors and decided to use it with the sheesh tawok sticks to create my shaft and stirrer, by attaching the 2 pieces to my motor shaft i ended up with this, no need to use glue or glue gun but you might need to use a cutter to trim the sticks first
Before we connect everything into the breadboard we need to prepare some things first
First connect the alligator wires to the ON/OFF switch, making sure you connect the 2 pins closest to the "0" switch
And connect some jumper wires to the other side of the alligator wires
Now do something similar to the LED by connecting 2 female/male jumper wires to it
aaaaand we all set
Follow the schematics above and connect electronics however you want. You should end up with something that looks like this. There is no right or wrong just test it and if it works then you did everything correctly.
Now the cardboard. I made everything from 3 total pieces, small rectangle at the top and another at the bottom. and mid piece that looks like a tower.
Added a small stick to keep it together then used glue to secure it.
It looks like a sniper tower
only dimension you need to care about is the tower needs to be at least 1.5x taller than your shaft+motor setup
The window at the top is for the motor.
Now putting everything together and making holes for the electronics we end up with something like this.
Demonstration video
I asked for some feedback on using the avometer and it was super helpful at debugging the circuit, especially the continuity to check for closed loops.
At first I tried using this motor but I couldn’t get the stick to attach to the motor shaft like no matter how I tried to line it up it just wouldn’t stay secure. I thought maybe if I forced it or used some kind of glue it might hold but that didn’t really seem like a good long term fix. it would probably just slip off once the motor actually started spinning with some load. After messing with it for a while I realized it was just more trouble than it was worth so I ended up just swapping for the motor with a more suitable shaft that actually matched up better with the stick. That way it was basically plug and play and I didn’t have to fight with it every time.
The other solution I had in mind was to print some sort of coupler to stick it on the smaller motor. I was imagining like a little 3D printed connector that could adapt the shaft size and give it more grip. It definitely would have been a fun thing to design and print but at the same time it felt like more steps than I needed to take for what I was trying to do. Honestly just picking the motor with the right shaft from the start felt way easier to accomplish and saved me a bunch of trial and error. I guess if I wanted to get fancy or had more time, making the coupler could’ve been a nice project, but in this case simplicity won out.
For example not knowing which pins close this switch circuit when it's turned ON so I used the avometer to check each pair till i heard DIIIIING on the correct ones.
ON/OFF 3 PIN Switch
Would make sure to connect electronics in parallel in my final project.
This week's sumo wrestling was really hype. The atmosphere, the music, everything made it a memorable day.
(don't have many pictures to share 🫠)