Inspired by littlebits, I want to make a low-cost, modular electronic kit that could be reusable to build multifunctional circuits and could be integrated with simple mechanical applications to perform multiple functions.
The project idea is a pre-programmable Arduino-based kit for making DIY electronic projects. I hope that I can develop my kit during the maker diploma to be a programmable kit and compatible with different mechanical parts to control it.
The description of the first version of my kit:
There will be 3 modes on my kit the user can toggle between them.
The first mode is to explain the simple circuit and its components.
The second mode is to explain the sensors.
The third mode is to explain the energy conversion.
CAD Process
computer-aided design software that you can use for modeling, assembly, drawing, rendering, and animation to create 3D designs. It's also a tool of choice for manufacturing, machining, and industrial design.
Using Fusion 360, I started the design process through 4 phases:
Sketching: to create 2D sketches.
Extruding: to produce 3D parts.
Assembly: to ensure that all parts fit together before fabricating.
Saving: Save each part with the extension that we will use later on fabrication.
This part is the base that organizes all the blocks by snapping them together with its magnets.
Design
1.To start sketching, I chose the top plane.
2. I drew a 200×250 mm² rectangle.
3. I drew a circle with an 11.6mm diameter.
4. Finally, I used a rectangular pattern to have 15 circles with a 35 mm distance between each other.
Extrusion
I extruded it to 3mm, the same thickness as MDF sheets.
The final design of the base plate
This part is the control unit that holds the Arduino (microcontroller), LCD, and buttons (user interface) to make it easy for the user to toggle between all modes.
Design
1. I started with the base part.
2. I made a copy from the base to be the top of the box. I made slots for Arduino, LCD, and push buttons.
3. Then, I started sketching the side part and on one of the two sides, I made 2 squares for the Arduino jacks.
×2
4. Finally, I sketched the front part to fit with all the previous parts.
×2
Extrusion
Repeating the same steps as in the base plate, I extruded all parts to 3mm.
Base
Top
Side
Front
Assembly
With the assembly feature, I could make joints between parts.
I selected an edge from the top part and the other from the LCD to finally be attached.
The final design of the base plate
Select the sketch you want to export as a DXF.
Press the right-click button and choose (save as DXF).
1.To start sketching, I chose the top plane.
2. I drew a 56×43 mm² rectangle. I made 3 holes for 3 LEDs and a slot for the breadboard.
3. I extruded the sketch to have 20 mm height.
2. I drew a 200×250 mm rectangle.
2. I drew a 200×250 mm rectangle.
2. I drew a 200×250 mm rectangle.
Exporting STL Files
Fabrication Process
Software for laser cutting, and engraving. It's also a G-code generator.
3mm MDF wood for laser cutting
After exporting my parts to Dxf files, I moved to laserwork to prepare my files for cutting.
I prepared it with one layer for cutting and one for scanning and adjusted the machine's speed and power to be ready for cutting.
PS: the text on the plate is written on Corledraw.
I opened the RLD file on the fablab PC to make sure that all parameters were ok.
I turned on the machine.
I adjusted the focus of the nozzle and tested it using the pulse button.
I determined the origin point using the origin button to start cutting from it.
I downloaded the file from the pc to the machine.
Finally, I ran the machine to start cutting.
Top
Base
Side
Front
Final Result of Control Box
I used Ultimaker Cura to make slicing and export the g-code for the 3d printer.
Parameters Adjustment.
Scale: 100%
Infill: 10%.
Support: to save my print from failure.
Adhesion: not needed
Layer Height: 0.3
Temperature: 215°C
Arduino Uno
LCD screen
LEDs
Buzzer
Resistors
LDR
Push buttons
Breadboard
Jumper wires
Copper wires
Input Components
LDR
Push Button
POT
Action Components
LEDs
Buzzer
Others
Arduino Uno
Resistors
Circuit Of Control Box
Circuit Of Enclosures
9V Battery
LDR Circuit
Buzzer Circuit
LEDs Circuit
Final Result Of Components
Final Result Of Base Plate
Final Result Of Control Box
Ahmed Ibrahim helped me build the skeletal of my code and he helped me with snap-fit design.
Maram was very supportive and helpful all the time.
Hussein ( Fablab specialist), Who helped me in the maker space
Omar ( Fablab specialist), Who helped me in soldering and finding fast solutions.
Rowa and Bassant supported me a lot.
Finally, big thanks to all my friends in A1&A2 especially Asmaa who is sharing with me all the marvelous moments I live and I am still learning a lot from you.
At first, I felt that the project was very easy, but because I started late and did not plan well from the beginning, problems began to appear, and there was not enough time to solve them.
1) It took a lot to imagine a working design for the enclosure. First, my instructor, Ahmed Ibrahim, suggested that we can use a snap-fit to close the enclosure, but I had many problems with its design. One of those problems is that I use a parametric design, so when I was trying to change dimensions, the snap-fit was damaged. Another problem was that there was interference between the parts. So I changed to using screws and nuts to close my enclosure.
Future Plan: I think I will work on snap fit design again until it works insha'Allah
2) When I found the working design for my enclosure, I made a big mistake in taking dimensions, which cost me time and material, so I had just 4 working components.
The mistake is neglecting the thickness of the enclosure so always I will remind myself to remember the thickness.
3) Program a button (back to the main menu).
Learning PCB to minimize the wiring hassle.
enhancing my design skills to reach the best version of enclosures
Making an enclosure for Arduino as a component of the kit.
Working on the development of the code to have
User guide.