Surfing. To me, its not just getting on a board and paddling around. Surfing for me is a passion. It has been in the family since my father took it up when he was still a teen. Ever since, everyone in the family, save my mother, are surfers. We have flown all around the world trying to find the perfect beach, including Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Oman, South Africa, Peru, Hawaii, and many more. My father began teaching us how to surf at the age of 3, where he would take us out to the shore of the beach and put us on a tiny board he had made for us. He would then wait for a wave to pass, then push us along with the wave. I believe the part that helped me become a good surfer was the part that if I didn't ride the wave to the sand , I would fall in the water and have to stop myself from drowning. As I grew up, I became more skilled, surfed more and more beaches, fought in tournaments, etc. All in all, I can say that I am happy to be a surfer, am grateful to my father for passing on that lifestyle, and I am sure that I will be surfing for the rest of my life.
(Same beach, 12 year difference)
The following is a video of the two best surfers in the world. It is an exciting video to watch, and will help the viewer understand what surfing is and how it is done.