This guide explains the major sections of ElegooSlicer and what settings teachers are most likely to use. The goal is not to memorize every option. Instead, think of the slicer as the place where you decide:
How detailed the print should be
How strong the print should be
How fast the printer should go
Whether the print needs supports
How multiple colors work
For most classroom projects, the default settings work very well. Teachers usually only need to adjust a few settings depending on the type of object they are printing.
This section appears near the top left of the slicer.
It controls:
Which printer you are using
Which nozzle size is installed
Which build plate is selected
What filament is loaded into each position
For the Centauri Carbon 2, most teachers should leave:
Printer: Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2, 0.4 mm nozzle
Bed Type: Textured Build Plate
Filament: PLA in the position that matches the spool loaded on the printer
This tells the slicer which machine profile to use.
Why change it:
If you have more than one printer
If you change to a different nozzle size
The bed type changes how the printer expects the print surface to behave.
Why change it:
If you swap to a different build plate
If you have trouble with prints sticking
These represent the four spool positions on the CANVAS module.
Why change it:
To match the color or material loaded into the printer
To tell the slicer which color goes where for multicolor prints
Change the filament color for a student project
Match the slicer to the spool actually loaded on the printer
Change to a different nozzle if you want more detail or faster prints
The Quality tab controls how detailed the print is.
The most important setting is Layer Height.
Layer height controls how thick each printed layer is.
0.20 mm: Best overall choice for most prints
0.12-0.16 mm: Better detail, but slower
0.28-0.32 mm: Faster, but rougher looking
Why change it:
Use smaller layers for detailed objects, miniatures, or text
Use larger layers for classroom prototypes or large prints
This controls the thickness of the very first layer.
A slightly thicker first layer often helps the print stick better.
Most teachers should leave this at 0.20 mm.
Line width controls how wide the printed lines are.
The slicer has separate settings for:
Outer wall
Inner wall
Top layer
Infill
Supports
Why change it:
Wider lines make parts stronger and faster to print
Narrower lines can improve detail
For most teachers, the defaults are best.
The seam is where each layer starts and stops.
You may see a tiny line or bump on the finished print.
Options:
Aligned: Keeps the seam in one place
Random: Hides the seam, but spreads small bumps around
Why change it:
Use Aligned for simple prints
Use Random if you want the seam to be less noticeable
The Strength tab controls how strong the print will be.
The most important settings are:
Wall loops
n- Top and bottom layers
Infill density
Wall loops are the solid outside walls of the print.
2 walls: Standard classroom print
3-4 walls: Stronger print
Why change it:
Increase walls for hooks, brackets, or parts that will be handled a lot
Leave at 2 for decorative objects
These are the solid layers at the top and bottom of the print.
More layers make the print stronger and keep infill from showing through.
Typical settings:
3 bottom layers
5 top layers
Why change it:
Add more top layers if you see gaps or weak spots on top
Reduce them if you need a faster print
Infill is the structure inside the print.
10-15%: Great for most classroom projects
20-30%: Stronger prints
50%+: Usually unnecessary
Why change it:
Increase infill for parts that need strength
Decrease infill to save time and filament
The pattern shown is Honeycomb.
Other common options include:
Grid
Gyroid
Lines
Why change it:
Honeycomb is strong
Gyroid is often one of the best overall choices
Lines print the fastest
For most teachers, Honeycomb or Gyroid are great choices.
The Speed tab controls how fast the printer moves.
Faster is not always better.
If a print is failing, slowing it down is often the easiest fix.
The first layer prints slower so it can stick better.
Typical first layer speed:
Around 50 mm/s
Why change it:
Slow it down if prints are not sticking
Leave it alone for normal printing
This controls the speed of the visible outside surface.
Why change it:
Slower speeds give cleaner-looking prints
Faster speeds finish sooner but may reduce quality
These can usually be faster because they are hidden inside the print.
Why change it:
Increase for quicker prints
Lower if the printer is making messy internal layers
The top layer is often slowed down to make the print look nicer.
Why change it:
Lower it if the top of the print looks rough
Overhangs are parts of the print that stick out without much support underneath.
The option “Slow down for overhangs” is turned on.
Why change it:
Leave this on for most classroom prints
It helps stop sagging or drooping on difficult shapes
Supports are temporary structures printed underneath parts of the object that would otherwise print in midair.
Teachers often only need supports for:
Arms or hands on figurines
Large overhangs
Bridges
Letters or shapes sticking out
If turned on, the slicer will automatically add supports where needed.
Why change it:
Turn supports on if part of the model appears to float in the preview
Leave supports off if the model prints fine without them
The screenshot shows Tree Supports.
Tree supports grow upward like branches.
Why teachers like them:
Easier to remove
Use less filament
Often leave cleaner surfaces
This makes supports start only from the build plate.
Why change it:
Turn it on to avoid supports forming on top of the model
Turn it off only if the print absolutely needs internal supports
The Top Z Distance controls the gap between the support and the print.
Why change it:
Smaller gap = cleaner support but harder to remove
Larger gap = easier to remove but rougher surface
Most teachers should leave the default settings.
This section is used when printing with more than one color or filament.
The most important feature is the Prime Tower.
The prime tower is a small tower printed beside the object.
Its job is to:
Clean out the old color
Make sure the next color prints correctly
Why it matters:
Without a prime tower, colors can mix together.
Larger towers waste more filament but make color changes cleaner.
Why change it:
Use a larger tower if colors are bleeding together
Use a smaller tower if you want to save filament
This uses extra color changes inside the print instead of only in the tower.
Why change it:
Saves filament
Best for thicker or solid prints
This helps stop extra filament from leaking out of the nozzle during color changes.
Why change it:
Turn it on if you notice strings or blobs during multicolor printing
For your first classroom print, do not start with multiple colors. Learn the basics with a single-color print first, then explore this section later.
This section controls extra print helpers like skirts and brims.
A skirt is a line printed around the object, but not touching it.
Its job is to:
Make sure the nozzle is flowing properly
Let you see if the first layer is working
Why change it:
Add a skirt if you want to test the nozzle before the print starts
A brim is extra material printed around the base of the object.
Unlike a skirt, it touches the print.
Why change it:
Use a brim for tall, thin, or narrow objects
Helps prevent the print from tipping over
Typical classroom brim:
5 mm wide
The screenshot shows “By Layer.”
That means the printer prints one layer across the entire object before moving up.
Why change it:
Leave it at By Layer for almost every print
This is a special mode for printing hollow objects like vases.
Why change it:
Turn it on only when printing a single-wall vase or container
Most teachers only need to change a few settings regularly:
Layer Height
Infill Density
Supports On or Off
Brim On or Off
Filament Color
For most student projects:
Layer Height: 0.20 mm
Infill: 15%
Walls: 2
Supports: Only if needed
Brim: Only for tall or skinny prints
Material: PLA
If you are unsure, leave the default settings alone. The Centauri Carbon 2 profile is designed to work well without major changes.
Use:
0.20 mm layer height
15% infill
No supports
No brim
Use:
0.20 mm layer height
10% infill
Brim turned on
Use:
0.12 mm layer height
Tree supports turned on
Slower outer wall speed
Use:
3 walls
25% infill
0.20 mm layer height
The slicer is not about finding one perfect setting. It is about making small changes based on what you want the print to do.