Embedded Files
The mending of clothes, underwear and house linen, though wearisome, is nevertheless very necessary and no woman should be ignorant of the best methods of doing it. –Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1900
The mending of clothes, underwear and house linen, though wearisome, is nevertheless very necessary and no woman should be ignorant of the best methods of doing it. –Encyclopedia of Needlework, 1900
Women mended garments to make them last as long as possible. Nineteenth-century clothing took time and money to make. It was much cheaper and easier to mend something than to sew something new.
Women mended garments to make them last as long as possible. Nineteenth-century clothing took time and money to make. It was much cheaper and easier to mend something than to sew something new.
Almost all 19th century women mended garments. Even well-to-do women who could afford servants still generally did their own mending. Mending was tidy work that could be done while sitting. Hired help were given hot, dirty, and difficult tasks such as laundry, cooking, and cleaning.
Almost all 19th century women mended garments. Even well-to-do women who could afford servants still generally did their own mending. Mending was tidy work that could be done while sitting. Hired help were given hot, dirty, and difficult tasks such as laundry, cooking, and cleaning.
Clothing was typically inspected and mended just before it was washed. It was important to catch any holes that might be made worse by scrubbing with harsh soap. Clothing was checked again after washing to repair any damage done by washing. Loose or missing buttons were reattached, split seams were repaired, and worn places or holes in the clothing were patched or darned.
Clothing was typically inspected and mended just before it was washed. It was important to catch any holes that might be made worse by scrubbing with harsh soap. Clothing was checked again after washing to repair any damage done by washing. Loose or missing buttons were reattached, split seams were repaired, and worn places or holes in the clothing were patched or darned.
Mending
Mending
Mending Terms: Patching vs. Darning
To patch means to cover a hole or worn part with an extra piece of fabric.
To darn means to fill a hole or thin spot using a series of interwoven stitches.
Corset cover
Corset cover
c. 1900
c. 1900
Cotton
Cotton
Transfer from the University of Illinois
Transfer from the University of Illinois
This corset cover was patched at the back where it had the greatest stress while buttoning and where it may have rubbed against the knot in the wearer’s corset laces.
Bodice
Bodice
c. 1890s
c. 1890s
Silk
Silk
Gift of the O.M. Hatch family descendants
Gift of the O.M. Hatch family descendants
This fine silk bodice shows both patching and mending in the spot where the wearer’s arm likely rubbed against the top of her corset.
Stockings
c. 1880s
Cotton
Gift of the O.M. Hatch family descendants
All of the darning on the heels and toes suggest that this was an everyday pair of stockings that had lots of wear and tear.
Stockings were darned with the aid of a “darning egg” or “darning mushroom.” These round wooden objects were inserted into the stocking to hold its shape while mending.
Darning egg
c. 1860
Wood
Transfer from Illinois State University
Apron
Apron
c. 1880s
c. 1880s
Cotton
Cotton
Gift of the O.M. Hatch family descendants
Gift of the O.M. Hatch family descendants
Although beautifully embroidered, the many instances of mending on this apron suggest a lot of hard use.
Petticoat
Petticoat
c. 1860s
c. 1860s
Wool
Wool
Transfer from the University of Illinois
Transfer from the University of Illinois
This well-worn petticoat was darned several times. No one would have noticed its condition because it was worn under the skirt.
Mittens
Mittens
c. 1880s
c. 1880s
Wool
Wool
Illinois State Museum Society purchase
Illinois State Museum Society purchase
These mittens were darned on multiple occasions with varying degrees of skill. The mending in black yarn was done neatly with an attempt to match the original colors. The green and tan repairs are crude and makeshift.
Remaking Clothing
Remaking Clothing
There are very few who do not renovate and make over their old dresses when they have grown too old fashioned to be presentable. –The Delineator, 1896
There are very few who do not renovate and make over their old dresses when they have grown too old fashioned to be presentable. –The Delineator, 1896
Beyond simple mending, women extended the usefulness of clothing by altering them or making them over. Clothing might be made smaller or larger to adjust for pregnancy, changes in weight, or to be resized for a new owner.
Beyond simple mending, women extended the usefulness of clothing by altering them or making them over. Clothing might be made smaller or larger to adjust for pregnancy, changes in weight, or to be resized for a new owner.
Old clothing might be refreshed by cutting out tattered pieces and replacing them with new fabric. Worn sections of fabric could be moved to a less visible place on the garment. Some fabric could be cut apart and “turned” inside-outside to make something new.
Old clothing might be refreshed by cutting out tattered pieces and replacing them with new fabric. Worn sections of fabric could be moved to a less visible place on the garment. Some fabric could be cut apart and “turned” inside-outside to make something new.
Women often kept their wardrobes stylish by making changes to the cut or trim of their garments. Often an old dress was ripped apart at the seams and reworked into something completely new. This could be done either at home or with the help of a seamstress.
Women often kept their wardrobes stylish by making changes to the cut or trim of their garments. Often an old dress was ripped apart at the seams and reworked into something completely new. This could be done either at home or with the help of a seamstress.
Badly worn or faded clothing still might have enough good parts to be made into children’s clothing or into another type of garment. Old dresses, for example, were often remade into petticoats or wrappers.
Badly worn or faded clothing still might have enough good parts to be made into children’s clothing or into another type of garment. Old dresses, for example, were often remade into petticoats or wrappers.
Petticoat
Petticoat
c. 1850
c. 1850
Cotton, wool
Cotton, wool
Transfer from Illinois State University
Transfer from Illinois State University
The different fabrics used on the underside of this quilted petticoat suggest that it was probably put together from pieces of other garments.
Remade dress
Remade dress
c. 1860s; altered 1890s
c. 1860s; altered 1890s
Taffeta
Taffeta
Transfer from the University of Illinois Bevier Historic Costume Collection
Transfer from the University of Illinois Bevier Historic Costume Collection
This dress was originally created in the 1860s. In the 1890s, someone began the process of remaking it to reflect a more current style. Buttons were replaced, the skirt was narrowed, and fabric from the skirt was used to create large “leg-o’mutton” sleeves.
Sponsored by Jim and Sherry Park
Recycling Clothing
Recycling Clothing
To 1800s Americans, recycling was a normal part of life. This included the recycling of clothing and household linens (textiles). Fabric was expensive, and each item took time to create, design, and sew. Families sought to get as much use out of their textiles as possible.
To 1800s Americans, recycling was a normal part of life. This included the recycling of clothing and household linens (textiles). Fabric was expensive, and each item took time to create, design, and sew. Families sought to get as much use out of their textiles as possible.
Clothing and household textiles were mended and remade. When they could not be mended anymore, all but the very wealthiest people recycled the cloth within the home. Clothing and sheets became bandages, diapers, dolls, quilts, rugs, and washrags. Scraps too small for household use were sold to a ragman to be turned into paper.
Clothing and household textiles were mended and remade. When they could not be mended anymore, all but the very wealthiest people recycled the cloth within the home. Clothing and sheets became bandages, diapers, dolls, quilts, rugs, and washrags. Scraps too small for household use were sold to a ragman to be turned into paper.
Rag doll
Rag doll
c. 1850
c. 1850
Cotton
Cotton
Transferred from Illinois State University
Transferred from Illinois State University
“…a large, well-made rag-doll is for a small child far better than any other – occasionally putting a clean new face upon it.” –Miss Leslie’s Behavior Book, 1859
Household scraps were often transformed into cherished playthings by thrifty mothers, or by little girls who were learning how to sew.
Housewife
Housewife
c. 1860
c. 1860
Cotton
Cotton
Gift of Al and Charlene Koelling
Gift of Al and Charlene Koelling
Often fabric scraps were repurposed into a sewing kit called a “housewife.” This compact wallet held sewing supplies like thread, needles, buttons, and pincushions. Soldiers often carried these kits to mend their uniforms while in camp.
“Though the price given for a pound of rags is but a few cents; still even that is something, and will at least buy some needles, or pins, or a cotton spool.” The House Book: A Manual of Domestic Economy, 1845
“Though the price given for a pound of rags is but a few cents; still even that is something, and will at least buy some needles, or pins, or a cotton spool.” The House Book: A Manual of Domestic Economy, 1845
The 1800s paper industry depended on cotton and linen rags for its product. Thrifty housewives saved rags and scraps of fabric in “rag bags.” These scraps were sold to paper mills and other businesses that used paper (newspapers, bookstores, and printers).
The 1800s paper industry depended on cotton and linen rags for its product. Thrifty housewives saved rags and scraps of fabric in “rag bags.” These scraps were sold to paper mills and other businesses that used paper (newspapers, bookstores, and printers).
Many working-class women found employment in paper mills. They sorted rags, snipped off buttons and hooks, and cut the rags into small squares.
Many working-class women found employment in paper mills. They sorted rags, snipped off buttons and hooks, and cut the rags into small squares.
Rag bag
Rag bag
c. 1850-1900
c. 1850-1900
Cotton
Cotton
Courtesy of the Chester County Historical Society, West Chester, Pennsylvania
Courtesy of the Chester County Historical Society, West Chester, Pennsylvania
Rag rug
Rag rug
c. 1800-1900
c. 1800-1900
Cotton, wool
Cotton, wool
Gift of Nancy Buchman
Gift of Nancy Buchman
Rag ball
Rag ball
c. 1900
c. 1900
Cotton
Cotton
Gift of Al and Charlene Koelling
Gift of Al and Charlene Koelling
The man that owns a rag-carpet made of articles collected about the house… can see in that carpet pieces of all the clothing he has worn over the past ten or twenty years.– Puck Magazine, November 19, 1884
The man that owns a rag-carpet made of articles collected about the house… can see in that carpet pieces of all the clothing he has worn over the past ten or twenty years.– Puck Magazine, November 19, 1884
Wool and flannel clothing too worn to be made over was often made into rag rugs. Old garments would be cut into strips which were then sewn end to end and rolled into balls. The balls would be braided, hooked, or woven into rugs and carpets at home, or sent away to be woven for a fee by a professional weaver.
Wool and flannel clothing too worn to be made over was often made into rag rugs. Old garments would be cut into strips which were then sewn end to end and rolled into balls. The balls would be braided, hooked, or woven into rugs and carpets at home, or sent away to be woven for a fee by a professional weaver.
Quilt
Quilt
c. 1870
c. 1870
Wool
Wool
Gift of Mrs. Harry G. Woodruff
Gift of Mrs. Harry G. Woodruff
“[Patchwork] is generally our first work and our last – the schoolgirl’s little fingers setting their first crowded or straggling stiches of appalling length in patchwork squares, while the old woman, who can no longer conquer the intricacies of fine work, will still make patchwork quilts for coming generations.” The Ladies’ Guide to Needlework, 1877
Mathilda Foster of Macon County made this patchwork quilt from scraps of dresses and suits. Unlike rag rugs, patchwork quilts were often made from scraps left over from making clothing rather than from old clothes.
Not all quilts were made from scraps and leftovers. Many middle-class women made appliqué and patchwork quilts using fabrics purchased especially for quilting. Poor, enslaved, and frontier women were more likely to use scraps for quiltmaking.
Page updated
Report abuse