DAY 7: SKOLDUNGEN
DAY 8: PRINS CHRISTIAN SUND / NANORTALIK
DAY 9: HVALSEY RUINS / QAQORTOQ
DAY 10: ERIKSFJORÐ / BRATTAHLÍÐ
DAY 11: NUUK
DAY 12: KANGAAMIUT / EVIGHED FJORD
DAY 13: SISIMUT
DAY14: ILULISSAT
DAY 15: DISKO BAY
DAY 16: UUMMANNAQ / QILAKITSOQ
DAY 17: FJORD EXPEDITION DAY
DAY 18: KANGERLUSSUAQ (back to Iceland)
Scroll down to view each day's feature photo, journal, and my three to see moments.
Map Source: Mapbox / OpenStreetMap (Taken from Lindblad Expeditions website)
My expedition was from (July 29 - August 16). Each daily posting below includes a feature photo, a journal, and my Top Three To See.
Consider following me on Twitter (@bluebirdfhsd) as I will post when updates to this site become available.
DAY SEVEN
August 4, 2023
It was suggested we try to rise before 6 AM as we would able to see Greenland and some glaciers upon approach. Needless to say, I awoke every hour last night to check the time to be sure not to miss it. At 3:45 AM something told me to peek outside, so I released the room darkening shades in my cabin, and, low and behold, a mighty iceberg was drifting elegantly past with a near full moon suspended above it. This was my first official iceberg! I threw on a sweatshirt, tennis shoes with strings lapping untied like a dog's tongue, grabbed my camera, and headed for the deck. The image above was my reward. Now, it is not the best image I captured during the morning, but it was a memorable moment that I had all to myself in quiet hours of my first Greenland morning.
For over two hours, we braved the briiiiiiissssk winds at the bow of the ship and watched iceberg after iceberg approach. The sound of the ice crackling and popping added to the experience as it tapped into another of our senses.
I learned that the blue color in some icebergs is a result of light refraction. The naturalists also explained how they knew when an iceberg had turned based on the texture of its sides.
Only 10% of an iceberg is showing which is what makes them dangerous because the 90% we cannot see lays hidden under the water.
Have you ever looked at the clouds in the sky and tried to guess what the shape of them reminds you of? This is what I was doing as I observed each iceberg. I am excited to share these images with my class to see if what their creative minds determine them to be.
As we approached Greenland, there were three distinct valley glaciers calling us in. I learned a valley glacier is named such as it does not reach water.
Later, while in zodiacs and cruising a fjord, we spotted a hanging glacier. This is a glacier suspending in a precarious position on the mountainside.
Tidewater glaciers were also spotted during our hour-long exploration, and those come down to meet the water's edge.
We learned about receding and advancing glaciers as well and how moraines and fjords are results of glacier movement. We easily spotted between 10 - 20 glaciers today. I wonder how many more there once were and how many will still be here in the decades to come.
Evidence of glaciers in an area can be found also by observing the color of the water. It is a beautiful mix between teal and aquamarine.
Can you guess what type of glacier is pictured in my photo above based on the descriptions given?
This afternoon the ship anchored in a fjord, and we were taken by zodiac to step foot on Greenland to hike into the wild unknown. Where we were going there were no trails, well, except the well-laid animal path we encountered along the river. This was wide open wilderness, and it was glorious!
Because it is potentially polar bear territory, though chances were low, we had to stay as a pack with a guide at front and back with spotting and protective equipment should we encounter something unknown.
My favorite parts of this hike aside from the expansive views was the babbling glacier fed stream, the evidence of arctic fox paw prints, and the stunning purple pops of color.
My least favorite part of the hike is a tie between having to wear the muck boots because of the terrain and having to wear a mosquito net to combat the midges flying about.
With icebergs in the background, this was the perfect time to complete this challenge the students gave me - Recreate the Titanic scene at the front of the boat. - Photo by National Geographic Photographer, Sissie Brimberg
DAY EIGHT
August 5, 2023
Jill and I are learning every day on this expedition while exploring these wild places, but today, we received a special task to focus on and complete. Every day of the expedition, a different member of the staff writes the Daily Report which gets posted to Lindblad's website for others to experience the adventure. These reports are similar to what I am doing on my site daily; it's a recap of the highlights through words and photographs. Collaboration is important, so Jill and I created a plan to share this responsibility. Her background is science, so she focused on the morning portion of our day to collect information and photographs on glaciers, icebergs, sea ice, and rocks. My responsibility with a geography background was to recap the afternoon portion of our day which focused on people and culture. In the coming days, you can check out our contribution to the Edge of the Arctic Expedition here: Daily Expedition Reports.
We had the opportunity for two presentations on board today on Glaciers and Vikings. Sissie Brimberg, is a renowned National Geographic photographer. When she did her presentation on Viking History, she used photographs of her travels and explained the process she went through with taking each photograph. I am loving those moments to learn her craft as well.
We are jam-packed daily which makes for great adventures and learning opportunities. Today was the first day I managed to squeeze in a nap. Now, it was only a 15-minute power nap before an announcement came on about an additional opportunity that arose, but it sufficed.
This afternoon, it was time to land in an inhabited area in Nanortalik, Greenland where we experienced the culture of the people up close. The image at the top is one of the many colorful homes that dotted the landscape. I loved this one as it was surrounded with golden buttercups, and they were reflecting in the small front window of the home. More below in a Top Three to See for today.
During evening recap, a time before dinner is served, the staff take turns to teach us something connected to the day's adventure. Dave shared how map projections distort the size and shape of continents - a concept my geography students will learn in the first quarter.
After breakfast, we spent a few hours on the bow of the ship, hot tea in hand, shifting from sun patch to sun patch for bits of warmth while battling the whipping winds as we sailed through the narrowest fjord along our journey. I practiced the new knowledge I learned about glaciers to name the different types we passed as we cruised through this fjord. There is a distinct U-shaped opening where these glaciers are or were at one time. One of these areas even had an additional severe V-shaped formation which is evidence of consistent flowing water over time. The icebergs continue to flow past, but I did learn two new terms. 1) Growler - a piece of iceberg less than 1 meter high and 5 meters long 2) A Bergy Bit - a piece of iceberg 1-5 meters high and 5-15 meters longs. Those larger are classified as glaciers in sizes of small, medium, large, and very large. We have seen them all!
For a portion of this passageway, I visited the Captain's Bridge. I was able to listen to the communication between the Captain and Maria, the Navigation Officer. I was also able to take photographs of the digital displays of their equipment helping them navigate and a paper map of the twisting and turning fjord system.
We were welcomed to an historic, small Greenlandic community with a population of less than 1,200.
Upon approach, the handful of visible structures dotted the coastline with brilliant pops of color. Those colors were enhanced by the blooming of golden buttercups that littered the natural landscape.
The town was quiet but for the laughter of local children. One spirited young girl hid herself among the golden buttercups by the path. As visitors walked past, she would rustle in the flowers or whistle catching them off guard. She may have gone undetected had it not been for the belly giggle that came over upon finding herself successful in fooling those that passed.
Upon a distant hill, we saw a pole structure with ropes/cables hanging down from the top. To me, it resembled a more industrial May Pole. Children suspended from these cables and flung themselves from the foundation of rocks out and around the circle suspended in the air.
The community of Nanortalik allowed us to amble through the worn rock covered streets and visit a few displays.
The church stood at the center of this community, and we were treated by a small choir singing Greenlandic songs from the altar. Upon opening the religious books stacked near my chair, I saw Greenlandic language where most of the words are easily fifteen or more letters long.
Further down the road, a man played a drum made from shark stomach and used reindeer antlers as a rod to play. He sang songs that told cultural stories.
A man gave a live presentation in the kayak museum. He spoke Greenlandic, and an interpreter translated his messages. The kayak is a traditional transportation tool for this community. The man explained much about its history and use, and told us there are at least 36 ways to right yourself if your kayak gets turned about or upside down.
DAY NINE
August 6, 2023
We had the opportunity for two zodiac landings today. One focused on the past and the other on the future. More about these in my Top Three to See (below).
I was also able to complete a few more student challenges today!
(1st): Students wanted to see the ship's ROV (remotely operated vehicle). I asked Andreas, one of the naturalist staff, for a sneak peek into the Undersea Locker where the equipment for the ship's divers are kept. They are basically underwater robots. We have not seen one in action yet though the ship's two divers have made several underwater videos with their other gear. We have been able to see their underwater explorations and even got to pet a jellyfish!
(2nd): I was asked to learn to speak some Greenlandic by my students. I was unable to get a video of me saying these words as my phone was ruined by sea water a few days ago; however, I did ask the local gentleman selling items to help me pronounce the words on his signs.
(3rd): Students asked me to stand outside the ruins of the Hvalsey church and shout, "I love Geography!" Big thanks to Janet, a traveler, who captured the video for me.
DSCN4485.MP4
Dennis, a naturalist with Lindblad Expeditions since 1981, led us on a short hike across the natural coastline and hillside near the ruins. He pointed out various lichens, mosses, and plants. We observed juniper, Arctic thyme, birch, orchids, beach pea, and river beauty - the flower of Greenland .
Closer to the shore along a set of rocks we found evidence that meals of sea urchins and mussels had been eaten.
We made our way to the Hvalsey Ruins which consisted of a sheep pen, a home structure, and the church. This site is under protection of UNESCO for its preservation of Norse Heritage. It is the largest and most well-preserved ruin of this type in all of Greenland.
A local guide explained aspects of the settlement to us. Interesting to note is that the signs are written in three languages: Greenlandic, Dutch, and English.
Having a local Greenlander with us at this site meant we were able to taste some of the natural plants as we wandered. It would be inappropriate and disrespectful for visitors to pull flowers and plants for this purpose.
"Take only memories, leave only footprints." (Chief Seattle)
The chef of our ship came along to forage with this local. As we passed them, we were offered tries of some of the samplings. I tried what is called Arrowroot. This gentleman is staying with us aboard the ship until our next port. He displayed the various plants he foraged for us.
Beach Peas are on the far right of the table in three piles. Top is the pea pod, middle is the flower, and bottom is the leaf. They taste just like the peas we know and eat.
Arctic Thyme is pictured in the top middle. The aroma was subtle yet forward. It is used often in teas.
Color me happy! Qaqortoq is the biggest town in southern Greenland, and it oozed charm even from a distance. There were a few locals selling hand-made items created from local resources like rocks, furs, and bones. We have been advised of the specific rules and regulations for buying items made with certain animal products.
Four of us independently set out to wander the town for a few hours with our cameras. The town has a population of about 3,000. There was an old and new church. The new church was designed to be shaped like an iceberg. Most homes had their windows open and laundry blowing in the breeze on erected props out their back windows.
Prior to taking the zodiacs back, many of the travelers gathered in the town's cafe named, QaqaQ, to sample local beer and teas.
This quaint town will be adding an airport in 2025.
Northern Lights - Photo Credit: Jill McNabnay
ERIKSFJORÐ / BRATTAHLÍÐ
DAY TEN
August 7, 2023
The intercom announcement came across at 1:00 AM that the Northern Lights were faintly spotted ahead, and the captain had dropped anchor. I threw myself together and climbed the stairs to reach the bow. It took a moment for my eyes to adjust, but there was no mistaking the rhythmic dance of light in the sky. It was a faint, green glow that wisped across the sky like paintbrush strokes creating a masterpiece in real time. The strokes of light bent, arced, swirled, and streaked in various patterns across time. My first instinct was to take a photograph, but I allowed myself a pause to take a moment to myself to just BE. I wanted the personal moment and experience, not the photographic documentation. I knew others would capture the image; I was trying to capture the feeling. The wind was non-existent, and the temperatures felt almost balmy in the Arctic night. I stood within a vacuum of silence just marveling at the natural phenomenon in front of me. It is a moment I will store away and reflect upon again in the future. Sleep came easy after I returned to my cabin knowing my soul was fed.
During the later morning hours (8 AM) we landed zodiacs on the land on Eriksfjord which was the homestead of Erik the Red. A portion of this area is protected as a UNESCO site. More in the Three to See for today below.
The remainder of the day and evening, we sailed toward Nuuk where we will explore tomorrow. Aboard ship today, there were several talks about plants, photo stories, and history. Jill and I spent time creating a presentation about the Grosvenor Teacher Fellowship program to share with the travelers tonight during Recap Time in the lounge.
After dinner, we were treated to dance music provided by members of the staff. It was fun to get up and engage with all the staff and travelers to a common unity of music. Despite our geography being different, we share a common bond of celebration! (To my cousin, Cindy, yes, I acquired a tambourine-like instrument and a hat exchange.) Rob, our resident geologist, got a Conga Line going through the room, and I was the caboose. Thanks to Michael, a fellow traveler, who captured the video of the fun!
As a side-note, I spent time speaking with Andreas, a naturalist from Bavaria, about their school system. I was and am still intrigued. By the fourth grade, students are placed between one of two tracks for learning with only one being available for university destination. Education is varied around the world, and as a 29-year teaching veteran, I am still learning and determining what is best for students as a whole as there are many researched and tried disciplines and methods available. This is a topic I want to explore more fully.
This was a most charming and special replica building. It was understated and simple. It was approximately 60-80 square feet.
This building like the others was replicated with the traditional materials that would have been used to construct in the past. Take notice of the sides and roof.
This is a replica of the style of home that would have been similiar to those during the time of Erik the Red in Greenland. It was much larger inside than it seemed. The first portion was a small room to the left with a heat source. There was one open entrance door leading right to a long open room with platforms along each side strewn with furs for warmth and another heat source in the center. Just as was with the church, take notice of the materials on the sides and roof.
We learned that Erik the Red sent his son, Leif, back to Norway to spread positive news of his father's settlement success in Greenland. However, during his return to Norway to speak with the King Olaf and show him items of interest, he learned more about religion. Upon his return to Greenland, he brought back a religious individual and new ideas.
DAY ELEVEN
August 8, 2023
As our bus stopped at the edge of the cliff to view and take snapshots of the harbor, I saw this man curiously looking out his apartment window behind us. He waved to us in acknowledgement of our presence. Knowing the respect rules for photography of people, I gestured to him with my camera requesting permission to photograph him from across the street. He nodded in agreement. When I lifted the camera and peered through the the viewfinder to capture the shot, he waved again. There was no language barrier between us. We were communicating, and he had the most kind and curious eyes. It is not the crispest image, but it is one that captured a moment of human emotion and connection.
He reminded me of my father sitting on his front porch swing curiously observing all those that passed and initiating conversations with each one. Of all the photographs I have taken in the last eleven days, this one is, without a doubt, my favorite! Capturing the true spirit of a place is through the people. I love, too, that the physical place was also captured with the reflection of the mountains in his windows.
Today was mostly a travel day to reach the Nuuk, the capital city of Greenland. We were taken on a tour of the city with a population of 19,000 by bus. Our guide explained the population is growing which is requiring new construction. Individuals from smaller settlements are moving here for a better education and lifestyle. It only take 12-15 minutes to cross the entire capital city by car, so it was no surprise to see so many people walking, pushing strollers, and biking about. There are no connecting roads to other locations outside of the city limits, so plane, boat, and dogsled are the three main methods of travel. The international airport has flights to Denmark from Nuuk.
There is one fast food chain in all of Greenland, Sunset Boulevard, and they sell burgers. The grocery stores are Danish. As there is no agriculture, all food must be imported. There are no forests, so lumber is also imported. There is little manufacturing in Greenland, so very little is produced locally. Heat in the winter is hydro-based with the use of dams. There is a hefty 44% income tax for schools and healthcare to be free. Students in high school are PAID approximately $500 a month. The local university only has eight subjects, so anyone wanting to pursue more advanced studies like law or medicine goes to Denmark. We visited the local mall, and immediately upon entering, I observed a gathering of about five teen boys. They were behaving and interacting in the same manner as American youth.
This is the third cemetery I have observed in Greenland. As with the other two, all of the markers have plain white crosses. This cemetery was designed to have all of the graves facing the sea. It is meant as a way to honor their life and its connection to the sea.
This statue represents one of Greenland's most known legends. The legend tells that the Woman of the Sea was bothered by the Inuit's deeds at the settlement. As a result, she collected all the animals the Inuit used to hunt in her long mane of hair for protection.
The moral of the story is about not being greedy and the protection of the land's animals from overhunting.
This museum was exceptional and possessed many well-preserved artifacts. I took many photographs of the typed written material near each display to be able to share the knowledge with my students upon my return. The most notable display in this museum is that of the Qilakitsoq mummies. The display was done honorably by having in a dimly lit separate space. The individuals were to believed to have died in 1475. Some of the women had the same facial tattoos and amulets were found in the same area. An amulet is an object to have been considered to have special powers for strength or protection. In this photo, I am not smiling, and I am standing in front of the view of the mummies. I felt this was important as they are not replicas. This is their burial site now. Photos of them did not feel appropriate to me in the moment.
DAY TWELVE
August 9, 2023
Fog enveloped the ship as we approached the entrance to today's fjord for exploration. I spent the morning in the Bridge, and the captain pointed out a pod of seals off the starboard. Once the sunlight forced its way through the blanket of fog, I stood outside on the bow for some magical moments like this Danish naval vessel being highlighted off in the distance.
We sailed into what is nicknamed Eternity Fjord this morning. We passed many glaciers, most of which are draining into the sea below with cascades of water torrenting down. Many of these glaciers used to be tidewater glaciers reaching all the way down to the water, but that is no longer the case. At the end of the fjord we came to a dead end...literally. The last section of this fjord ends with a glacier that is still connected to Greenland's ice sheet though there used to be more...many more. We were sitting in an area with about 400 feet of water beneath the keel. While zodiac cruising in this area, we were able to hear the ice bubbling and cracking as air escaped. In addition, we first heard the boom then saw the waves and splash of a piece of the glacier as it calved.
Kayvon presented on his role as one of the ship's deep sea divers. He showed and explained his safety equipment as well as all of the camera and video gear. We were even treated to some photographs and videos he took while diving. I asked him about evidence of plastic in the waters where he dives. He said the two main plastics are bags and balloons, and they are usually on the water's surface. Further below water he said it is harder to identify the material as it has been broken into microplastics. In our Geography class we will talk about being responsible consumers and identifying responsible producers; each of us has a choice in what we buy and whom we buy from. Please take those choices seriously. Those choices are but one small way we can each impact change.
I was mesmerized by the jagged and pointed sections atop this glacier when I zoomed in. The sun was creating the perfect contrast to see their depth. I learned these jagged peaks on glaciers are called seracs. I have probably learned more about glaciers on this trip than any other geographic feature - thanks to our mentor, Andreas, aka "The Ice Man".
Getting lessons from National Geographic photographer, Sissie Brimberg, as we wander the beach in a majestic fjord surrounded by glaciers...PINCH ME! We learned all sorts of tips! She also said there are guidelines to photography but no rules! I asked her about the emergence of AI in photography. With art photography she felt it had its place; however, she feels it does not belong in documentary work.
The weather has been utterly fantastic. We have experienced fog almost every day, but it usually dissipates by mid morning. At 12 days in, we have experienced no precipitation. The temperatures have continued to stay around 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit though the winds have made it feel slightly cooler. We should see drops in the coming days are we creep further north toward the Arctic Circle.
DAY THIRTEEN
August 10, 2023
When you are a Geography teacher and hear the ship will be crossing the Arctic Circle around 5 AM in the morning, you set your alarm to be there! I knew not to expect to see anything different; it was more a symbolic moment for me to be there. I snapped a shot of the latitude on the ship's navigation system to document it and promptly went back to bed!
We spent the entirety of today in Sisimut. Fishing is the main economic activity here, hence the cover photo I chose above. The main fishing here is for cod, halibut, snow crab, shrimp, and wild salmon (not Atlantic salmon).
A fun fact about this town is that it is the northernmost town in Greenland whose port remains ice free in winter while also being the southernmost town in Greenland to be able to transport by dog sled in winter and spring. The homes in Sisimut have two numbers. One, in black, is the address. The other number above the address is in red, it signifies the numerical order of the house having been built. For example, a home with a red 5 indicates it was the fifth house built in Sisimut. We also learned the background behind the various colors of homes we have been seeing all over Greenland. It continues today now to carry on the tradition, but it began as a coding system to help identify areas of need. Language barriers and illiteracy were issues that required an innovative way for individuals to find their way to needed services in this colonized area of an indigenous land. Red buildings were primarily churches or schools, Yellow for hospitals, Blue connected to the fishing industry, and Green related to radio or telecommunications in the later years. It is important to note that by 1830 illiteracy was no longer a significant issue in Greenland.
Before dinner this evening, we heard from a guest speaker, Aleqa Hammond, the former first female Prime Minister of Greenland. This presentation was profound! At the end of the presentation, the traveler next to me laughingly asked if I got anything out of her talk while pointing and smiling at my notebook. I took about 8 pages of notes! At our six-person dinner table setting, her talk was also the topic of our conversation the entire meal. I will be organizing and loading the information she shared about the language, culture, food, economics, government, and future of Greenland in the Resources and Class Connections tab later. She will also be speaking again to us in a few days. For now, I will share three quick facts.
Greenlandic schools have a mandatory requirement for children to learn three languages. Greenlandic (official language), Danish (colonized language), and English.
Greenlanders pay a whopping 42% in income taxes; however, they are used back for the people. Everyone receives a paid pension, medical care including surgery and prescriptions, school including university plus books and dorms as well as receiving 4,500 Danish krona a month for expenses. My favorite aspect of their social care is that elder homes are built in the center of town to make it easier for family members to stop and visit. These homes are free for elders and cover the housing, care, and food.
Open Houses are common in Greenland to celebrate birthdays as well as other occasions. Upon entering someone's house it is customary and expected civilized to remove your shoes. You should accept at least two cups of coffee or tea, and it is considered respectful to taste each variety of cake or food you are offered.
After dinner, the documentary film, Chasing Ice, was shown in the lounge. My teaching partner, Jill, has seen this film and highly recommended it. This fits in perfectly with what we have been learning and personally observing regarding climate change to the Arctic.
We visited "Dogtown" in Sisimut today. The population of Sisimut is approximately 5,000 while the working dog population is 4,000! The dogs used to be located within the town; however, an area was created further out of town due to their barking. The area was rather rugged and sparse. Dogs are chained, yet puppies up to six months roam free. The dogs are a specific pure breed more related to a wolf. NO OTHER dogs are allowed in Greenland. Working dogs are necessary to maintaining their geographic and cultural life in the Arctic.
The local hotel in town invited us to sample some traditional Greenlandic food. They served dried cod, reindeer sausage, snow crab legs, lumpfish roe on bread, and musk ox soup (suaasat). The soup can also be made with reindeer or seal. It is made with the meat, onion, potatoes, thickened with rice, and seasoned with salt and pepper.
Any guesses on how many of the five offerings I tried?
Narwhal.MOVThe likelihood of seeing narwhals in the wild is extremely low in our location, so I improvised with a stuffed narwhal I found at today's souvenir shop. My students wanted me to yell, "Unicorn of the Sea" when and if I did spot a narwhal.
While touring the town, we did spot a few narwhal tusks displayed in the window of one home. Narwhal hunting is illegal except for the indigenous populations in Canada and Greenland as it is connected to their traditional way of life.
Students wanted to see the animals of Greenland. Their top three were caribou, sled dogs, and an arctic fox. First, August is the start of reindeer hunting season in Greenland, so the animals are more elusive. Two arctic foxes were spotted by travelers on two separate hikes, but I was not on those paths at the same time. Well, I did see plenty of sled dogs, so I was able to complete this challenge!
(Photo Credit: Jill McNabnay)
ILULISSAT
DAY FOURTEEN
August 11, 2023
Today, the time got away from me, so the update is a bit short. It does not mean today was uneventful; quite the opposite.
We started the day with an up close and personal visit to the Jakobshavn Glacier, or Ilulissat Glacier(above photo). It was absolutely breathtaking and overwhelming all at once. It has been retreating over the years. This is THE glacier that was in the movie, Chasing the Ice. The photos do not do it justice; videos to come. We visited a museum. We took an iceberg cruise, did a town walk-about, and observed humpback whales from the bow of the ship after dinner.
The crew submitted a photo taken by Chris Roams, photographer/videographer, of tonight's humpback whale fluking and entered it into the site, Happy Whale . We learned this whale was last documented being seen a full year ago near Greenland. Whales are identified by the pattern on their tails. This whale is not yet named. More videos of the whale to come later.
Sorry, that is all for today. Exploring is exhilarating and exhausting all at the same time. :)
We took a 2-hour iceberg cruise mid-day, and what a brisk and beautiful ride it was. We were able to get quite close to a few.
Glaciers naturally calve and send icebergs to the sea; however, this is happening at a more rapid pace. Overall, the glaciers are also decreasing in thickness.
While it was a beautiful sight to witness the icebergs up close, it was disheartening to witness the unnecessary loss of this valuable natural resource.
One of the ship's naturalists, Patrick (marine biologist), looooves jellies. On our iceberg cruise, he was busy surveying the iceberg filled water for jellies. He spotted one that was a new species to him in the wild, and he was like a kid in a candy store.
He used a bucket to try to retrieve it; however, that proved fruitless when the jellyfish dove deeper. Using a pole, he created a vortex in the water, which created an upwell. The jellyfish rose nearer to the surface where he was able to collect it in a bucket to observe more closely, do some documentation of the species, then teach everyone more about it at tonight's recap.
Students knew I would be up close and personal with icebergs and glaciers, and they wanted me to use all my senses...even taste!
Sight and touch are pretty obvious with ice. The one sense I was most mesmerized by with ice was sound! We could ear the air bubbles escaping in the ice as smaller pieces popped in the teal glacial waters near our zodiac.
For taste, someone asked if it was salty. It is NOT because glaciers are created by snow pack and are considered freshwater. This is why the information about glaciers disappearing is so concerning.
DAY FIFTEEN
August 12, 2023
We took to land this morning fully equipped with our mosquito nets and muck boots, and we absolutely needed both today! There were several options available for exploring once ashore on the vast wild tract of land, but all groups had to remain with our guides. Due to the area being wild and being in polar bear territory, this was for safety. Because we had to wear muck boots, the long hike was out for me. I opted for the photo stroll with the two photographic instructors - not a bad option. We explored the shoreline and the riverbed looking for unique opportunities and perspectives to capture. Most of the other travelers and even the photo experts just use their phones for all their photographs; this is not my style, but I am learning new techniques from them. The above photo is one I took today. When first observing this flower, I was not able to see the polka-dotted details until I used my macro zoom for a closer look. I do not (at the time of this posting) have the name of this flower, but I will return to update it when I do. - Update 11/11/23 - The best I can find is that it is a hybrid Alpine Saxifrage nicknamed "Spotted Dog".
After lunch, the chef and restaurant manager offered a tour of the kitchen and pantry. I could not believe the amount of space for storage on this ship dealing with just food! Every space we visited was expertly CLEAN and ORGANIZED. The floor has grates embedded throughout which is designed for cleaning and scrubbing the floor for sanitation. I learned that the staff check the fresh produce daily, and this helps the chef determine what ingredients need to be used sooner rather than later. The chef chooses most all of the proteins ahead of the voyage, and the sides get developed along the way. Today, we learned the iceberg purchased in advance didn't last as long as planned. More was bought en route. It was purchased for $8 for a head of lettuce. This is a great lesson in supply and demand for my future geography students! The ship has a baker and pastry chef that share a space and rotate time in there daily. Like most other professional kitchens, they use a pass through system. Orders come in to the head chef who calls them out the line cooks. He has the final look at plates before they are served. There are no recipes written down to follow. He explains his vision to his team, and they discuss alternatives and collaborate on a final decision. On a side note since we are talking about the food, let's discuss water. The ship cannot carry enough fresh water for all its needs during these long voyages. The ship has a reverse osmosis system that converts ocean salt water to fresh water!
Sissie Brimberg, National Geographic photographer, has impressed upon us a few times her struggles with learning as a student. Even by second grade she was not reading or interested in reading. Her parents and teacher worked together, and they determined she had dyslexia. This is something she talks about freely and with purpose for others to learn from her experience. To receive the help needed to learn the way she needed to, she received special education services that addressed her needs as a learner. Writing was difficult for her. She mentioned she was known to write; however, it was painfully excruciating due to her dyslexia. She found her own way to tell stories. She looked through her eyes and listened. She knew she could do it. She had mentors early on - a boyfriend's mother - who encouraged her use of the camera. She even says, "I am best when I am talking with my camera." Sissie published over 30 stories with National Geographic Magazine, she traveled the world, and she was successful. This is a message she want students to hear.
Each evening when we are prepped for the next day's activities, we learn if our excursions will be wet or dry landings. A wet landing requires our muck boots and rainproof pants because when we exit the zodiac we jump into ankle to knee deep water. Today's wet landing was unusually wet. You can tell from the image above that the crew are calf and hip deep in the water helping to guide in the zodiac for landing. Because the waves were so intense today, the zodiacs had to back into the landing spot. This was a first, and the crew did an outstanding job helping us get to land safely.
Today's beach was different than the others we have visited. The rocks were black indicating volcanic history. The sand along the beach was black as a result of these rocks breaking down over time. All of the rocks on this beach, black and otherwise, were round and smooth. This indicates the impact the waves in this area have on shaping the rock with their repeated force over time. My favorite sound today came from the domino effect clickity-clack of the black rocks as they danced atop each other like tap shoes when being tossed about by the incoming waves.
Back on Day Thirteen, we learned that dog sledding plays a signifcant role in Greenlandic culture. In the last days, we visited two separate "Dogtowns". Today, we stumbled upon another type of dog settlement...an isolated small island. As we were cruising on the zodiacs this afternoon observing icebergs, we passed a small rock island. From my estimate, it was not larger than a football field. We saw movement on the island and observed a dog with five pups. We learned earlier in the week, this practice of keeping your sledging dogs on an island is common in Greenland. It eliminates the need for chaining them in town. Food and water is brought to the island every two days.
UUMMANNAQ / QILAKITSOQ
DAY SIXTEEN
August 13, 2023
We spent the morning stretching our legs on a rainy walk through the streets of Uummannaq. The town was built amongst the hills of the natural landscape. We saw a street sign not observed yet in other locations. It was a tsunami sign showing people the direction UP in various spots through town should this natural disaster occur. Many of us know earthquakes can be a potential source of tsunamis on the sea; however, we learned in areas like this in Greenland that calving icebergs can form tsunamis. When an iceberg calves it can sound like a gun firing or even distant thunder, and it is loud. We navigated many large icebergs from our ship via zodiac boats to land in this town today. Our drivers are extremely careful not to get too close because icebergs can be unpredictable and flip, turn, or calve. I included the above photo to demonstrate the scale of just how large the icebergs were near shore today...ship size!
Glaciers have been my favorite learning topic over these weeks!!!! It is without a doubt due to the presentation style of our glaciologist, Andreas Alexander. He presents simple and often humorous examples with comparisons that give a clear visual understanding of his in-depth knowledge on these serious beauties.
Tonight, Andreas gave us a final presentation on glaciers, and the work he and his teams are doing to try to share their scientific knowledge on the seriously concerning change and loss of our planet's glaciers. The information is disheartening and concerning, yet these scientists continue to try to learn more in protection of these natural formations. Watching what these glaciologists do to obtain this data was INTENSE. The trekking of gear over difficult landscapes, the traversing into deep and unstable crevasses, crawling within and below glaciers, and encountering flowing waters from below. These are extremely dangerous conditions. Information about the warming climate and its impact on the glaciers and what that means for the planet can be found now on the Interact Q and A tab as well on the Resources page later on.
A second outing today was by special permission to the site of Qilakitsoq where the mummies were found preserved in ice back in1972. Reverence was expected as there are likely still human remains buried in this area. The mummies we saw on display a few days back at the Nuuk Museum were found here. Their bodies were not mummified by their civilization, rather the elements over time of this area preserved them. The February 1985 issue of National Geographic magazine did a full story on the find, the research on the remains and its outcomes. Copies were made available on the ship for us to read. I highly encourage you to read more about these individuals and their predicted lives back in the 1400s of Greenland.
I also visited a local grocery store and snapped photographs for my students to show the limited amounts of choices in a more remote location. In addition, I included prices in Danish Krona, so we can do some converting to compare prices of common items in Greenland and Missouri. More to come in the Class Connections and Resources later.
In the museum, I was curious about these two displays. After speaking with the curator, I learned they are toys! They are made from bones and drilled with holes. Notice the bone with holes is attached a pointed stick-line bone by a string. You hold the stick and hang the bone filled with holes dangling from the string. With a wrist action, you swing up the bone and try to catch it with the stick. One of the travelers with us tried this, and she made it within about six tries! I have a video I will share in class.
Dinner was special tonight. Many of the crew are from the Phillipines, and they shared their culture with us this evening. The men's shirts were made from the pineapple plant, and the women wore specially decorated and adorned attire. The foods were a sampling of their cultural dishes. I tried a vegetarian spring roll for the first time, and I liked it! It was served with a dipping sauce of vinegar and onion which was delightful. There was also a rice soup, roasted pig, and stir fried noodles among other dishes. It was fantastic being introduced to another culture through their food and clothing traditions.
A trivia night was hosted by the staff after dinner. We paired up in teams of five, and we had a total of five teams playing. Jill and I paired with Chris and Meagan, the couple we met on the first day at the airport. We invited Richard, a fellow passenger, to join our team. The questions all centered around our learning over the last weeks. When scores were totaled, there was a TIE! The "Ducks" beat us on the one question tie breaker, and they took home the expedition zipper pulls. Well earned, Ducks! We joined them as Runner Ups for a group photo.
DAY SEVENTEEN
August 14, 2023
Today was the last expedition day out at sea; we begin the two-day travel transfer tomorrow! The ship was shrouded in fog for most of the morning travel, but the air was fresh and crisp. I stood in a private moment with no one else around staring out beyond the stern of the ship letting the fog envelop me as I breathed in the salty, sea air.
We had three presentations as we traveled to our final destination today. We learned about creating a photo story and after photo processing from Dave, one of the photo instructors. Each guest was invited to submit a selection of photos for tonight's slideshow viewing. These will be sent to everyone aboard in a few weeks to have a memory collection of our time together. Next, Greenlander and Former Prime Minister, Aleqa Hammond, gave her second presentation on Geo-Politics. She believes in the next twenty years, Greenland may earn its independence, and we could all be witnessing this moment of history in our lifetimes. I learned much, and it will be included later on the Resources and Class Connections tabs of this site. Finally, Andreas presented on the Arctic Time Bomb with a look at the changing temperatures on Earth affecting the Arctic area. Interestingly, there are two ways to define Arctic. One is the geographic way while the other is through temperature; areas with 10 degrees Celcius in July. Unfortunately, temperatures are changing, and that is adjusting our current definition of "Arctic". White snow and ice reflect heat from the surface. With the retreat and loss of sea ice and those light colors, the sun is not reflecting and is being absorbed by Earth. With that change, those living in the Arctic are the first to feel these effects. Part of my being here is to bring their story back with me.
I had either not stayed awake long enough each evening, the weather was not clear, or other events were going on that I never viewed even one sunset at sea this ENTIRE trip. Keep in mind there are nearly 20 hours of daylight here, so sunsets come late! Tonight, we were all treated with the most amazing sunset views after dinner, and we enjoyed a last evening at sea as the sun helped us say our last goodnight to Greenland! I can't wait to process those photos!
Tomorrow we charter back to Iceland, then we tour and fly out the following day. The last two days of updates will come in the days after my return home. Safe Trip!
My students wanted me to try Inuit foods. I did not take advantage of this opportunity when we were in Sisimiut on Day 13. Luckily, I had a new opportunity at lunch today with Quapnattaq-style soup! The two crew members serving lunch have come to enjoy joking with me, and today, they had another chance. They knew I was doing my challenge and tried to trick me that the meat in today's soup was polar bear; it was not. It was a broth soup with potatoes and carrots and ground meat. My student challenge sign was in my cabin, so it is not shown in the photo.
With some down time between presentations, four of us spent time playing a variety of games on the observation deck. We played a World Geography card game and Jenga. It started as way to pass the time and quickly turned into a fun time with raucous laughter between two groups of people that just met a few weeks ago. We even had two fellow travelers pass by and stop and observe our game with big smiles. Laughter is contagious!
This transformation of new friendships developing happens with my incoming 6th graders each year. There are many new faces, and it takes time to find "your people" that you connect with, but once you find your group those friendships can grow.
A significant part of traveling is connecting with others along your journey and learning with and from them. My father instilled in me my entire life the importance of making connections with those around you. I am inherently social because of his lessons. This trip has provided many great opportunities to meet a great many varied individuals from all over the world. Each has a different story; however, I tried to connect with each on some element of common ground - love of adventure, food, family, dancing, photography, or interest in learning. I am thankful for each new connection. The photo is from the evening Jill and I presented in the nightly recap to the entire group of travelers prior to dinner.
KANGERLUSSUAQ
DAY EIGHTEEN
August 15, 2023
The photo shows our last (and my first) sunset aboard the National Geographic Explorer! Those who stayed up for the others said this was the best one of them all, and I am thankful to have been there to bid the sea good-bye in this way!
During the day on this final day we did one more zodiac cruise. One of the zodiac groups spotted a reindeer though it was a good distance away. August is the start of reindeer season, so it was hesitant with the presence of humans.
Most of this day was spent preparing our luggage and finalizing next steps for traveling back to Iceland for a day and then home.
Just outside my cabin window I had a sneak peak of the logistics involved with getting everyone's luggage from the ship to the dock for our charter flight back to Iceland.
This floating barge had a shipping container to house the luggage. The barge was maneuvered by a small tug boat.
This was a great examples of our geographic essential question for 4th Quarter: How does where you live affect how you live?
Prior to boarding our charter flight from Greenland back to Iceland, we were treated with a farewell feast at Hotel Kangerlussauaq. The table was decorated beautifully, and they offered so many varieties of foods; most were traditional to the area. There were a lot of fresh fish options as well as reindeer and musk ok salami. They also included fresh fruit and pasta salad.
I cannot express enough thanks to the captain, crew, and staff for the exploration, education, care, and social experiences they provided during this expedition! It was truly top notch quality and professionalism in every capacity.
I am proud and honored to represent as one of the 50 Grosvenor Fellows of 2023. Thank you Lindblad Expeditions and National Geographic Education for the opportunity of a lifetime.
Return to the Iceland tab
for our last day - DAY NINETEEN.
