Lulzbot Mini - Quick Start Guide, User Manual
Catalyst EX
Thingiverse - Download .stl files to manipulate and print
Find premade objects to print in Thingiverse! Make sure you read the notes and comments sections for extra printing tips. No username/passwords needed. Use Google Chrome!!!!
Tinkercad (Online Access) and Solidworks (Desktop Link)
Use 3D shapes to create objects that you can then print! You must make a free account before using the site. However, the teacher can make one account and the whole class can log into that account at the same time.
Online converter - Use this website to convert image files to .svg files. This lets you upload the .svg image to TinkerCad to make it a 3D design.
Students can hand draw a design on paper, scan it, and then use the Online Converter and import it to Tinkercad.
Students can design in Microsoft Publisher or Adobe Photoshop/Illustrator, save the file as a JPEG, then use the Online Converter to turn it into a .svg file, and import.
Open a design in Cura and click on "Monitor" at the top of the screen
Enter 205° C for the "Hot End" then click "Pre-heat"
Go to Manual Control and click "Connect"
Use the "Home All" button to position the nozzle head just above and at the center of the print bed
Scroll down to "Predefined Commands" and click "Preheat Nozzel" and wait for it to reach the right temperature
Unclasp the idler above the nozzle that keeps the filament in place
Pull out the filament currently loaded
Insert the new filament into the feeder hole and reclasp the idler
Enter 50 for the extrude amount and then click the button to remove all of the previous filament from the nozzle
NOTE: This video shows you how to change the filament. The software he uses is for a Mac, so it will look different on the computer in the Innovation Lab. If you have questions, find an intern or an adult.
Open the program called “Cura-Lulzbot” on the desktop. It is in the bottom left corner.
Open up your file by clicking the button with an open folder on the left.
Tinker CAD is a great resource for beginners to create 3D design: https://www.tinkercad.com/
Sketchup is also good: https://edu.sketchup.com/app
You can find premade designs at: https://www.thingiverse.com/
You can move your project around on the plane, and you can add more than more object on the plane as long as it all fits.
When you are happy with your set up, connect the printer’s USB to the computer.
Turn on the printer.
Go to “Monitor” and start to preheat the hot end and the hot bed.
The temperatures of the ABS Village Case (the filament provided) are 230-250℃ for the hot end and 110℃ for the hot bed.
Click the “All Home button” which is a little house.
Wait for both the hot end and hot bed to heat up.
To test to make sure everything is working, change extrusion amount to 10 and hit extrude. Filament should come out and you can carefully remove it using the tweezers.
Once both are at temperature, hit print.
The printer will not start running right away it will cool down slightly, move around a bit, heat back up, clean the nozzle, and calibrate the hot bed.
Watch your masterpiece come to life. Seriously, someone has to be watching the printer at all times while hot.
Let the printer cool down by setting both temperatures to 0℃.
The hot bed will come forward automatically when it is cool enough to remove. Use a knife to carefully detach your object from the hot bed.
Remove your project from the online program by right clicking on your object and pressing delete selected model.
Turn off the printer.
The nozzle gantry needs to move very carefully in order to draw out the correct shape in each layer. If the nozzle is too far away or too close from the build plate than the filament will not stick together correctly causing the shape to look wonky. The movement and positioning of the nozzle gantry is achieved by the use of linear motors and belts.
The positioning and movement of the build plate is all accomplished with a form of linear actuator. To achieve the necessary movement and positioning, the nozzle gantry uses linear motors of stepper motors with belts. These create straight line motions.
The nozzle gantry is placed horizontally while the build plate is placed vertically. Both need to be placed as precisely as possible.
Click and Move is the overall program that makes sure that the printer prints smoothly. It can also regulate the nozzles and the build plate temperature.
The Print Head, also known as the extruder is the part of the printer that turns the filament into a 3D model. It has 2 sections. The cold end and the hot end. The cold end grabs the filament and takes it down to the hot end where it is melted and deposited to the platform to begin creating the 3D design.
Filament/Extruder Drive Gear- pushes filament into the hot end.
Heat Sink- makes sure the filament doesn't melt before it reaches the nozzle.
Heat Sink Fan- makes sure the filament doesn't melt before it reaches the nozzle.
Heater Cartridge- heats up the filament.
Thermistor/Thermocouple- temperature sensor for the hot end.
Cooling Fan- cools the filament as soon as it reaches the platform, helps the design holds it shape.
Nozzle- Where the melted filament is dispensed. Sizes are easily interchangeable. The smaller the nozzle, the more detail and a slower printing process. Vice Versa with a larger nozzle.
The more rigid the frame is, the more precise the movement of the printer will be. The frame of a 3D printer can be 3D printed itself.
There are washers that help to balance the bed while something is being printed, and if they aren't secure and/or clean during the printing process, the print and the tool head could be damaged
In the Lulzbot, there is a wire that runs from the board to the heater block, and wires running from the board to each of the balancing washers on the bed. In order to calibrate and level, the nozzle will tap the washer once, and then again slower. It does this with all four washers and makes sure that they are level.
The measurement has to be the same on the left and right hand side of the bed. If it needs to be adjusted, power off the printer and rotate one of the Z axis stepper motors by hand to bring the X axis into alignment with the Y axis.
X axis needs to be level to the aluminum bed platform.
If using software to level the bed is still producing wonky results, try leveling the bed manually and send it to Z 0 if it homes to Z max.
In order to avoid something called an "Elephant Foot," the base layers of the print needs to be cooled so that it can support the structure above, and the bed needs to be leveled.
Example of an "Elephant Foot"
https://tse4.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.X1q-GURwi_Dp4x8xuwCC2wAAAA&pid=Api&P=0&w=247&h=193To determine the coordinates where it needs to move, and the rates at which it will do so, the slicing engine uses:
the nozzle diameter
movement speeds
layer height
other variables
This information is exported using a GCODE file. This is a plain-text file that has a series of text-based codes and the X, Y, and Z-axis coordinates used for printing the 3D structure.
In order to operate the desktop 3D printer, you need to install software packages onto your computer. You will need:
a 3D printer host
an .STL to .GCODE generator
an optional CAD or 3D modeling software.
Cura LulzBot Edition is the recommended software for the LulzBot 3D printer. Visit LulzBot.com/cura to download the Cura LulzBot Edition.
This software converts 3d models into GCODE files, which are the file types used for 3D printing
There are 7 slicers that can be used for the 3D printer but only Cura LulzBot Edition is recommended by the official website.
The newest software is more user friendly and more slicing options an updated slicing engine, and better print quality than pervious softwares. The current versions is: 3.6.21
3.6.21 has not been yet been tested.
The stable version of Cura LE for mac and windows is v3.6.20, and for those who use LulzBot Bio need to use the most current version: 3.6.21
If ever there is a problem or a bug with the software you can submit a bug report
The software is distributed recently under GNU Lesser General Public License Version 3 (LGPLv3) terms.
Under these terms you can redistribute and/or modify the software.
There is no warranty
OctoPrint- Website: https://octoprint.org/
BotQueue- Website: https://www.botqueue.com/
MatterControl- Website: https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/mattercontrol/sk/MKZGTDW6
LulzBot Download Server: http://download.lulzbot.com/
LulzBot Development Server: https://devel.lulzbot.com/
Aleph Objects Code Repository: https://code.alephobjects.com/
What kinds of designs are good for 3D printing?
Simple, symmetrical designs AB
Designs that have a flat bottom are good for 3D printing because it does not need support. While support beams can be added to the design, it works best when the design can be build upon itself. -BA
Designs with thicker walls are better to print. -LB
Rounder edges avoid warping - LB
Try to avoid overhangs because they are more complicated- LB
Any shape that can be desembles into small and easy parts can be printed (https://all3dp.com/1/diy-room-decor-ideas-3d-print-home-decor-diy-ideas/) AH
must be able to be made from the "base" up (https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/key-design-considerations-3d-printing/#intro) AH
If for example one wanted to make a room with a chandelier the would ave tp make it up side down because a 3d printer work in layers/slicers (https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/key-design-considerations-3d-printing/#intro)AH
The software used is very important in a successful creation. MW
The type of material use must be taken into consideration. (strong, flexible, smooth, etc.) MW
https://i.materialise.com/blog/en/5-mistakes-to-avoid-when-designing-a-3d-model-for-3d-printing/
Solid v. mesh models-make sure which type works better for your object before printing. MW
https://pinshape.com/3d-printing-design-guide#over-chapter-2
Shapes that can be layered. MV
Stable and sturdy shapes. MV
Any shape that has a flat bottom. MV
You can easily 3D print bracelets EJ
Did you lose a keyboard key? Just 3D print one! EJ
Petree dishes/ring holders/key dishes are all good things to print as they are simple shapes. EJ
The Printer is working but nothing is printing
The nozzle is to close to the print bed
incomplete and messy infill
messy first layer
print looks deformed and melted
cracks in tall objects
Extruder frequently becomes jammed, but works fine briefly after clearing the jam
You could raise/lower the corner to minimize/increase the extrusion width to match the others.
Verify both axis for good movement- If the X-axis motor moved without trouble or loud noise the problem would likely be in either in the board/stepper driver or the connections for that axis."
Most problems are cause by incorrect extruder spring tension
If the extruder jams, it could be too hot or too cold
Leaving printer extruder heated up for 20 minutes or more without extruding, the extruder jams.
Try replacing thermal isolator or isolator sleeve.
Put a small fan on the hot end to cool the top.
Perfect spheres.
Extremely "short" or flat pieces.
Very sharp or pointy edges.
Overhangs do not work well for structures.
Wall thickness must also be determined otherwise object could break. Walls too thin or too thick. MW
File resolution is another problem if the file is low quality.
Anything with an overhang cannot be printed without the proper printer or support
Overhangs over 45 degrees need to be properly supported, you should be in the clear below that
If you have a bridge longer than 5mm, it won't print properly without support. The filament can't stretch longer than 5mm without drooping significantly.