Anatomy of a Honey Bee

A Honey Bee has three main parts of the body which are the Head, Thorax, and the Abdomen.

Why are honeybees important?

Why are bees disappearing?

What do bees need in their environment to thrive and produce quality honey?

How can we provide this environment?

How do bees carry pollen?

What diseases, parasites and other dangers should we be aware of?

How can we get beehives?

Will we need to replace queen bees?

What plants/ food sources should we include in our habitat?

What are bees’ scheduling like (when are they all in the hive? when can I collect honey? when do they hibernate? etc)

What equipment do we need?

What season of the month is best to start a bee farm?

When should we get the bee hives?

How much will everything cost?

How will we get funding for this project?

How can we educate the public on these issues and give them ways to contribute?

What do I do if my hives start stealing from each other?

What laws and regulations do the FDA have on honey production?

What percentage of real honey is in commercial brands of honey?

Why are honeybees important?

There are more honey bees than any other species of bee, so they are the main pollinator of crops. Researchers estimate that over a third of the food we consume every day relies on pollination from bees. Many domestic and imported fruit and vegetables also relied on bees for pollination. For example, avocados, soybeans, asparagus, broccoli, celery, squash, and sunflowers for oil, cucumbers, citrus fruit, peaches, kiwis, cherries, cranberries and melons. For almonds and blueberries especially, 80% of commercially grown crops are dependent on honeybees in the US. Honeybees also pollinate alfalfa and clover, which is what we feed to cattle; therefore the meat and dairy industries are also dependent on honeybees. Other imported crops such as cotton and flax also rely on the honey bee for population. And of course the honeybees are responsible for making honey.

When it comes to the economy, bees also play a role, especially in the UK. In 2008 it was estimated that bees' contribution to the economy, with everything they do was worth about £165 million! And in 2009, that number went up to £200 million! Many crops rely on honeybees in the UK including: apples, pears, strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, broad beans, runner and dwarf beans, and field beans. And many others benefit from the biodiversity influenced by honeybees.

Another comercial pollinator that's been facing a hard time in the UK recently is the bumblebee. They are preferred to honeybees when pollinating certain crops like tomatoes and strawberries. We originally had 25 species of bumble bee native to the UK, 3 are already extinct and 2 are critically endangered. They are seriously declining in numbers!

Why are bees disappearing?

The four main factors contributing to the rapid decline in population of bees worldwide are parasites, cellphones, the use of pesticides, and the issue of habitat loss. First and foremost, the two main types of parasites that harm honeybees are tracheal mites and varroa mites. The tracheal mites live internally in the honeybee and kills them by infecting the bee's breathing tubes, drinking it's blood, and weakening airflow to it's wings. Varroa mites affect young larvae that are being raised in the hive, they live externally.

Another major reason for the disappearance of bees is habitat loss. By humans cutting down trees, either to clear space or gather natural resources we are destroying their habitats. Considering the fact that bees need large trees to make their nests, bee's choices for a home become more and more limited by the day.

Researchers have recently discovered another possible reason for bees disappearing, cell phones. Bees are highly attracted to electromagnetic radiation. When a cell phone is used it projects electromagnetic waves and it damages bees’ ability to return to their colony. It is as if their navigation system is destroyed and they cannot recall where their home is. It is known that these electromagnetic waves damages this specific ability in honeybees, but it is not proven that it destroys whole beehives.

Pesticides are substances used to eliminate unwanted pests. Insecticides rid us of unwanted insects. Unfortunately, bees are insects and are affected negatively by the widespread use on our crops. One way that honeybees are affected by insecticides is by direct contact. Sometimes when worker bees come into contact with insecticides, they die immediately. However with the second more deadly way, the bees survives and carries it back to the colony, either as contaminated pollen or nectar or on its body. After a honey bee pesticide loss, the colony may suffer additionally from brood diseases and chilled brood.

What do bees need in their environment to thrive and produce quality honey?

First of all, The few things a bee needs are shelter and safety, the ability to expand, dry and well ventilated homes, and a nearby source of water. Out in the wild, bee don't nest underground but instead they need shelter and safety above the ground but in hollowed out trees. They need the ability to expand because honey bees grow in population. The larger the colony the higher the chance of survival. The more bees the more food they will collect and the more food means they have a better chance. A larger population also means more warmth during the winter. Bees do very well in all types of weather conditions. But when there is excess moisture and inability of the bees to regulate the hive temperature it can cause deep trouble. That's why the hives need to have a good airflow. Finally bees need a nearby source of water. During the time when bees are foraging for honey and pollen, bees don't collect just nectar and pollen. They also need water to dilute honey when it is too thick and to cool the hive during hot weather. The bees don't mainly use it to quench their thirst.

How can we provide this environment?

1. Bees need water to dilute honey and cool the hive during hot weather. If water is nearby, they can spend more time gathering nectar and less time collecting water. Bees will drown in deep open water containers.
2. Bee behavior is affected by temperature. They rarely work when the temperature is below 57^oF or above 100^oF. They cannot fly when the temperature is below 55^oF. On very hot days, bees cluster outside unshaded hives and do not work. However, too much shade in the summer makes bees irritable
3. Windbreaks provide some protection from cold winter winds. Bees eat more stores and are more susceptible to dysentery when located where cold winds hit the hive.
4. Field bees orient themselves with the sun and usually fly from mid-morning to mid-afternoon. Avoid placing hives on the west or north sides of buildings. Orient the hive entrance to the south or southeast but not into prevailing winds.
5. If you are in hilly country, locate your hive in a valley. Bees fly uphill for nectar and downhill when loaded with pollen or nectar. Locate the hive so you can carry filled supers down the slope to your storage area.
6. Locate your bees close enough to your home to observe them regularly.
7. Hives near highways, sidewalks, or watering troughs might be a nuisance. If your hive is in this situation, build a high fence so bees leaving and returning to the hive must fly over the area.
8. Avoid locating the hive near large rivers bees must cross to forage. Bees within a half mile of wide rivers often drop into the water and drown when returning home tired and loaded with nectar.
9. Bees will fly two miles in any direction over level ground for nectar, but honey production increases if nectar is closer. Try to locate the hive near fall and spring nectar sources.

How do bees carry pollen?

Bees stuff pollen into hairy receptacles on their hind legs to carry it. Fun fact; bees can carry half their body weight worth of pollen.

What diseases, parasites and other dangers should we be aware of?

Tracheal mite (Acarapis woodi) is a microscopic, internal mite of the honey bee respiratory system, capable of infecting queen bees, drones and worker bees. Tracheal mite infects and reproduces inside the tracheae (breathing tubes) of the honey bee and feeds on the honey bee’s haemolymph (blood). Infection affects the honey bee’s capacity to breathe, opens the tracheal surface to pathogens and reduces capacity of air flow to the wing muscles. This results in weakened and sick honey bees which do not work as hard and have a significantly reduced lifespan.

When Tracheal mite infestation is combined with other stresses (eg disease, lack of pollen or nectar etc.) it can lead to the death of the colony. Once a honey bee colony is infested with Tracheal mite it remains infested, with impacts more significant over winter and early spring, contributing to high colony losses in severe cases.

Varroa mites are external parasites that attack both honey bees and brood. They suck the blood from both the adults and developing brood, especially drone brood. This weakens and shortens the bee’s life. Emerging brood may be deformed with missing legs or wings. Untreated infestations of varroa mites will increase and may kill colonies. If the colonies are not examined for mites, losses may be mistaken for winter mortality or queenlessness.

When it comes to pesticides, its best to try and avoid them all together. Among the materials in this high-risk category are diazinon, Imidan, malathion and Sevin. Choice of Formulation: Different formulations, even of the same pesticide, often vary considerably in their toxicity to bees. Dust formulations are typically more hazardous than sprays because they are picked up on bee hairs.

Will we need to replace queen bees?

Yes, most queen bees live around 5-9 years, however their vitality decreases with age. Most beekeepers replace queen bees every year or every two years. Requeening can be done at several times. Select a period when nectar is coming into the hive. This improves the chance of the new queen being accepted. The earliest time in the year is in spring when bees are bringing in nectar about six to eight weeks before the main nectar flow. The advantages then are few supers to handle and a relatively small colony. Also, the old queen is easier to locate, and it's easier to check for acceptance of the new queen. A disadvantage is the higher cost of queens during this time. Some beekeepers requeen after the main nectar flow begins. If the old queen has been laying fairly well, she will have laid most of the eggs needed for a good work force. The disruption of brood rearing by introducing a new queen is only slight. A disadvantage is difficulty working through the large number of bees to locate the old queen. Requeening can be done in the fall if there is a dependable nectar flow. The colony is not overly large at this time, and a good queen will be established for the spring buildup. The simplest requeening method is to introduce a purchased queen from the mailing cage. About midday, as soon as possible after the queen arrives, open the hive using as little smoke as possible. Remove the brood chamber combs one by one, checking each one carefully for the old queen. When you locate her, kill her and destroy any queen cells present. Uncover the candy hole in the end of the mailing cage and punch a small nail hole through the candy. Suspend the cage in a horizontal position between the top bars of two frames in the brood chamber. Close the hive, and do not disturb it for seven days. At the end of this time check to see if the new queen has been accepted. Look first at the mailing cage to see if she is free. If she is not, enlarge the candy hole or release her directly into the hive. If the queen is free and eggs are present in brood cells, it is not necessary to locate her.

What plants/ food sources should we include in our habitat?

Honey bees will love ripe fruit the most when they are in nectar dearth. Honey bees will feast on almost any piece of fruit. They are known to eat plums, peaches, grapes, apples, figs and pears. Natural habitats that provide nectar and pollen through spring and summer are important for colonies to thrive and grow. Trees and shrubs provide early pollen and nectar, and herbaceous plants such as clover provide pollen and nectar later in the season.

What are bees’ scheduling like (when are they all in the hive? when can I collect honey? when do they hibernate? etc)

Honeybees do not hibernate, when the temperature is around 64 degrees fahrenheit, the bees will cluster around the queen to keep her and themselves warm. They become sluggish once the temperature drops below 55 degrees F . They will die of hypothermia if their body temp falls to 45 degrees F. Beekeepers harvest their honey at the conclusion of a substantial nectar flow and when the beehive is filled with cured and capped honey. Conditions and circumstances vary greatly across the country. First-year beekeepers are lucky if they get a small harvest of honey by late summer. If possible, it is best to remove the honey no later than mid September. The best time to inspect is between 11am and 4pm on a still, sunny, warm day when all the flying bee are out foraging. How long should an inspection take? Typically, inspecting your bees should take around half an hour per hive.

What equipment do we need?

The basic equipment you will need is frames and foundation, a smoker, hive tool, veil and gloves and feeders. Wooden frames hold sheets of beeswax or plastic foundation that are imprinted with the shapes of hexagonal cells. A smoker calms bees and reduces stinging. Pine straw, grass and burlap make good smoker fuel. A hive tool Ideally shaped for prying apart supers and frames. Veils and gloves These protect the head and arms from stings. After they gain experience, many beekeepers prefer to work without gloves. Feeders hold sugar syrup that is fed to bees any time during the year that energy demands are high but natural nectar not available. Winter and late summer are common times for feeding in Georgia.

What season of the month is best to start a bee farm?

The best time to start beekeeping is in April to June. As soon as the weather begins to warm up and flowers start to bloom, you can set up your hive. You should get your bees into the hive as soon as possible to allow them the time to gather as much nectar as possible through the next few months.

When should we get the bee hives?

You should buy the bee hives when the season and temperature is right and when you have read articles and gathered information on how to bee keep and the tools needed. You also needed to have picked a place thet has a water source nearby and a lot of plantlife such as flowers.

How much will everything cost?

Expect to pay approximately $500 for the first hive and roughly $300 for each additional hive. Depending on whether you choose a jacket or full bee suit, your primary protective clothing will run from around $100 to $200. A hive tool is usually $7-$12 and a bee brush is $6-$10. Hive tools and scrapers cost from

How will we get funding for this project?

General farm and rural development grants are available for aspiring and established beekeepers. Many of these are not intended explicitly for apiaries, and they are open to a variety of uses. Bees, however, are classified as livestock, and they qualify for a wide range of grant programs.

The Farmers Market Promotion Program is a substantial grant opportunity at $5,000 to $10,000. You can apply those funds to an apiary. This grant is more suited to honey producers who sell at local farmers markets and through cooperative food programs.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) also offers an excellent opportunity with its Rural Business Enterprise Grant. This large grant ranges from $10,000 up to $500,000 with the stipulation that the business must have fewer than 50 employees and less than $1 million in annual revenue. It functions as the perfect grant for a small business that wants to invest in apiary equipment: An extensive beekeeping operation can be built with this kind of money.

We've talked to experts in the area and we've determined that we can get someone to pay for about 90% of all costs for this project.

How can we educate the public on these issues and give them ways to contribute?

After we've begun our farm, we can do some research on our hives and how we regulate our hives throughout the year. After that, we can visit local schools and teach people about what we do, and what we had to do to get there. We can also give people who are interested in starting their own bee farm the information we've obtained on grants and financial tips, as well as information about this vital practice.

What do I do if my hives start stealing from each other?

Robbing occurs when worker bees enter another hive (not their own) and steal honey or sugar water. Pollen and baby bees are usually safe from theft. a solution to this problem could be buying a Moving/Robbing Screen. The simple idea is to move the gateway leading to the hive entrance. Bees who live in the hive – figure it out. Most of the robbers do not learn how to find the entrance. Another solution to this problem could be reducing the entrance of the colony being robbed to the width of 1 bee. This is most efficiently done with the use of entrance reducers. They are the right size and offer several opening sizes. Keep some extra entrance reducers on hand. You will need them from time to time throughout the year.

https://carolinahoneybees.com/honey-bee-robbing-behavior/

What laws and regulations do the FDA have on honey production?

What percentage of real honey is in commercial brands of honey in the US?