Step 1 (Creating a sketch/plan): This project's first step was to create a sketch of the design I wanted to make. I was unsure of what to create because all the other pieces we had created were pre-set, and although we got to choose the design we were making, our path was still set to the same goal. So, I took a peek at what Madeline planned to make; she was making a Christmas-themed piece. I took inspiration from her and decided I wanted also to create something based on the holiday spirit.  I searched Christmas wood decorations and found nothing, so I went a little simpler and searched CNC wood pieces, and I ended up finding a piece that I thought was really creative and wanted to take inspiration from.  After finally deciding on what type of design I wanted to create, I started making sketches. I went through a few till I found one I liked the most.   

Step 2 (Making my design into a sketch and DXF file in Adobe Illustrator): The next step was to transfer my vision into AI; I first started off by finding a PNG of a tree I could use as my Christmas tree. Once I found the one I wanted, I used image trace to turn the image into just an outline I could use in my sketch. The rest of my sketch for both my door and 'inside' was made of shapes, lines, and the 'shape builder' tool. 

*Remember to check extrude numbers and change if wrong 

Step 3 (Transferring sketch DFX file into Fusion 360): After creating my sketches, I could transfer the DFX files into Fusion. I used the 'extrude' button to create a 3d model from both sketches. I made a -0.5 extrude for my 'inside' and added differing extrude levels at each detail I wanted to put at a different depth. I used both a -0.5 extrude and a -0.4 extrude for my door (I wanted to create a slight divet for the acrylic piece I was planning to place behind my door..to create the look of a windowed door). 

*Remember to check names and insert

Step 4 (Creating 2d Pockets): Now that my model was done, I could now create my 2d Contours for both my door and 'inside'.  First, I selected 2D Pocket as the first path and saved 2D Contour for last. I first created the 2d pocket for my 'inside' piece. Under Tools, I accessed Dawson FS tools and used the 1/4 inch bit (this tool depends on your project and its needs). I made the surface in the third tab and turned on multiple depths. For my design I wanted to make the corners of some areas more sharp so I would have an easier time creating acrylic pieces for those areas, and it overall just looks more aesthetically pleasing that way. So, I went in and created a 2nd 2d pocket, but I turned on Rest machining and put 0.4 as my tool diameter-so that it would take off a little more then it needed to . For my door, I followed the exact same steps for the 2d pocket, but I didn't create a second  2d pocket. 

Step 5 (Creating 'Body 2', representing my piece of stock): While heading to create my 2d Contour, I had a slight realization that I didn't really need it because my whole piece was what I was cutting-no need for an outside barrier! However, I was then told that I needed a 2D Contour as well as a stock body to ensure that if I had set anything up a little wrong on the CNC, it would cut totally wrong and ruin my piece.  So,  I went back to design and sketched to create a box around my piece, which I then extruded to cover the entirety of my piece.  I then selected it for any areas marked in red; I switched to Cut mode, selected the body, pressed Extrude, and chose Make Object. Then, I went to the Manufacture workspace to create tool paths. I created a setup, letting Fusion know the stock size and setting the X, Y, and Z axes. Under the Stock tab, I switched the setting to “From Solid” and selected Body 2 as the solid stock. Returning to setup, I specified the axis orientation by selecting the front-left-top corner as the box point. In the Model section, I told Fusion to select Body 1 and then turned off Body 2. 

Step 6 (Creating 2d Contours):  For my 'inside' 2D Contour, I skipped adjustments in the Heights tab, and then in the Passes tab, I disabled Stock to Leave and enabled Multiple Depths. Since this is the 2D Contour, I used Tool 8. Then, I selected the bottom edge in the Geometry tab, added a -0.02 offset in Bottom Heights, and confirmed the depth in Passes. Finally, I ran a simulation to make sure I got everything correct. Then I clicked my setup and clicked Create NC Program. I then verified that my project was named and was on 1001. After that, I saved the file to my computer and sent it to the maker space email. I did the same exact steps for my front door's 2d contour, however because I wanted to cut all the way through on some areas I created two 2d contours-one for the stock, and one for the holes I wanted to create. 

*(Note: The pre-check and cutting out process is for both my products)

Step 6 (Cutting out my door and 'inside' on the CNC): Now that I had my wooden stock prepped and my NC file sent to the CNC machine, I was now ready to cut it out. The cutting process starts by setting up my wood piece on the CNC. I tape the painted side up and tape the area on the table where I'm placing my piece as well. Then, I used super glue on the taped side of my wood piece and attached it to the taped area on the CNC.  After making sure that my piece is attached, I then do the six preflight checks:  tape and glue (make sure to check if the frame is REALLY glued onto the CNC table), make sure the air compressor is on, check that all the axes are in place (Z, Y, X) , and make sure my job is the one loaded. But we aren't ready to cut yet. First, we must move the machine to the area where my frame is glued. Then, I slowly lower it using the Z button, but I make sure not to lower it too much, maybe about 3 inches away. After the machine is set near the corner of my frame, I can turn on turtle mode and slowly lower the machine down to where I can start seeing a dark shadow made by the machine, but it still does not push down on my wood stock. I then had Madeline help me with the paper test to ensure it was close and accurate to my frame. Finally, I can move the machine back around the middle, let the CNC run my job, and remove my sign once it's finished cutting.   However, although this process worked out perfectly on my 'inside' piece, it didn't go too smoothly for my door piece. When I was creating the model, I failed to turn on 'Multiple Depths, ' so when I cut it out, it didn't cut down all the way. The very last layer wasn't cut down because the last go around hadn't happened.  It was now splintered and thin on the bottom; this had to be fixed. 

Step 7 (Fixing the door): My next step was to fix my door; Mr. Supiro helped me with this part.  He first cut off as much as he could with the Flush trim router,  but many pieces were still stuck into the bottom, making it rough and a splinter hazard. So the next step was to sand down the first layer using the belt sander. This took many times going under the sander. And even after all the splintering wood was shaved away, there was still a divet in the wood (that was just naturally a part of the wood, but still inconvenient). So, the best solution was to fill the gap with super glue, spray with adhesive, and then sand it all down to create a flat, smooth base. 

Step 8 (Painting): Once I had both my base pieces cut and ready, it was time to paint. I first painted my tree than my window pane (which I change later), I also decided to spray paint one coat of white spray paint onto my door. But it came out a bit patchy due to a little bit of the texture still being there from the cutting mistake, so I would go in later with one more coat to fix the patches. 

Step 9 (Creating acrylic pieces for the windows): After painting, I could now create the pieces I wanted to use for my windows. Creating these pieces was a little hard because I struggled with creating and joining all the edges and curves created due to the tree-blocking part of the window. But I quickly found out the solution from Mr. Supiro, who said the solution was basically just to join all the lines and then go in with the black select tool and select the edges of each connecting point. Then you could now round the edges along with the rest of the corners 0.125 (Because I cut out my piece with the 1/4 bit but told the machine to also go in with the 1/8 bit in order to get sharper corners). I also learned from my previous CNC sign project that offsetting the sketch is the key to fitting a piece perfectly into a slot. So, I offset my lines in -0.02m. Which allowed leeway for my pieces in case they weren't in the exact shape of my wood piece. I first tested my sketch on a piece of scrapwood, and once I knew it fit I cut it out of this matte blue acrylic that really matched the cold, Christmas vibe. 

Step 10 (Painting 'outside enviroment' and changing window color): Once I finished the windows I decided that I also wanted the outside to have some sort of design or at least color. So I painted a night sky that had a little bit of snow falling around, and frost around the window borders. However, once I finished painting and put on the original blue acrylic into my window panes, it looked weird and didn't match at all. So, I decided on using clear acrlyic instead. Because I had painted on the 'frosted' look anyway, the matte wasn't useful in the way it was previously. 

Step 11 (Cutting out the acrylic piece for the door and second coat of spray paint): I first transferred my model and sketch of the model from Fusion into Adobe. Then, using that sketch, I could isolate the line I needed for the little shallow part I created for my acrylic piece.  I rounded the corners by 0.25 because I had used the 1/4 inch bit to cut out my piece. 

Step 12 (Cutting out acrylics for the ornaments): I was almost done, but I still needed to add the finishing touches to my project. I decided to include acrylic ornaments and lights. Using Adobe, I took an image of ornaments I liked and created a sketch from it. However, I ran into some issues because the image I chose was more complex than I anticipated. Eventually, I managed to finish the design and complete the ornaments. When it was time to cut them out, the Epilog Laser cutter was occupied, and I was in a bit of a rush. So, I quickly learned how to set up and use the Helix laser cutter instead, and I was able to cut out my pieces successfully.

Step 13 (Adding final details, cutting and gluing together my main pieces): Now that I had my ornaments and lights cut out, it was time to attach them. I wanted to do more than just glue them on, so I decided to add string for the lights and ornaments to dangle from. As I finished gluing the pieces with hot glue, Mr. Supiro helped me cut my door piece at an angle so I could attach it to my 'inside' piece. With that, my project was finally complete.