“Letter Sweater (boy & girl)”
Norman Rockwell, 19 Nov., 1938
The Saturday Evening Post online archive
It was actually k.d. lang herself that came up with the theme for this photoshoot. lang devised the scene where she would be “shaved by a beautiful model, a playful fantasy realized… as a sort of modern twist on Norman Rockwell” (Bennetts). lang chose Rockwell as an inspiration because she "loves to play with stereotypes, and the more provocatively and irreverently the better, as far as she's concerned” (Bennetts). The norms and stereotypes in Rockwell's work become a source of queer inspiration. Let’s take a look at Rockwell, his work, and the norms that appear within them, to understand just how this Vanity Fair cover breaks them down.
Rockwell was a famous American artist, perhaps best known for the covers he painted for The Saturday Evening Post. Rockwell’s 47-year career at the Saturday Evening Post, which began in 1916, would allow him to become “the nation’s most beloved illustrator, treasured for his expressions of traditional family values through everyday observation and humor” (Cooks 40). It is precisely through the creation of paintings that are supposed to represent the ordinary or “everyday,” that norms are developed. The reproduced patterns of style, presentation, and behavior become what the audience understands as “normal.” From an advertising standpoint, “Rockwell’s art works as a rhetoric designed for mass appeal” (Greenhill 211).
Norman Rockwell. Bettmann/Getty Images
Rockwell’s predecessor was a man named Joseph Christian Leyendecker, who worked alongside Rockwell for many years, before he was let go from the Saturday Evening Post in 1942 (Greenhill 211). It was likely Rockwell’s willingness to portray comforting, family scenes, while Leyendecker’s covers refused to shy away from the realities of war, that allowed him to gain and keep his position at the Saturday Evening Post (Greenhill 211). Essentially, “Rockwell more effectively told and sold the war story,” by creating more comforting images, more comforting norms (Greenhill 211). Rockwell was also better able to integrate “into the community he portrayed” better than Leyendecker, “a gay man living a double life in relative isolation” (Greenhill 213). Rockwell was able to represent American ideals and convincingly live them, Leyendecker could not.
Rockwell painted quaint, simple scenes during his time at the Saturday Evening Post, like a young boy fishing with his father or grandfather (fig 1) which wouldn’t ruffle any feathers. Many of his covers, before the early 1940s, featured either an entirely blank or minimalistic background, placing all of the focus on the human subjects. His characters are typically men and, most often, white. This is likely due to the fact that Rockwell was told could only paint black people in positions of servitude (Cooks 46). His white men do all sorts of things, like play baseball (fig 2), become soldiers (fig 3), or play music (fig 4). When they’re not wearing some sort of uniform, these men are typically wearing some kind of grey or black suit, which often includes a vest (fig 5&6). Their shoes shine with a fresh polish.
fig 1. "Catching the Big One"
Norman Rockwell, 3 Aug. 1929
The Saturday Evening Post online archive
fig 2. “Gramps at the Plate”
Norman Rockwell, 5 Aug., 1916
The Saturday Evening Post online archive
fig 3. “When Johnny Comes Marching Home”
Norman Rockwell, 22 Feb., 1919
The Saturday Evening Post online archive
fig 4. “Violin Virtuoso”
Norman Rockwell, 28 Apr., 1923
The Saturday Evening Post online archive
fig 5. “Escape to Adventure”
Norman Rockwell, 7 June, 1924
The Saturday Evening Post online archive
fig 6. “Palm Reader or Fortune Teller”
Norman Rockwell, 12 Mar., 1921
The Saturday Evening Post online archive
The women in Rockwell’s paintings have things to do as well. On the few covers where women are featured on their own, they are engaged in low-impact activities, including (but not limited to) sitting doing needlepoint (fig 7), sitting exhausted after cleaning (fig 8), sitting eating candy ( fig 9) or sitting gossiping (fig 10). There are some women who are mobile, but few and far between (fig 11). They are often engaged in domestic tasks, which will inevitably contribute to and benefit the home. They are the administers of care and never the recipients. The most dynamic female characters are children.
fig 7. “Needlepoint”
Norman Rockwell 1 Mar., 1924
The Saturday Evening Post online archive
fig 8. “Daydreams Cinderella”
Norman Rockwell, 4 Nov., 1922
The Saturday Evening Post online archive
fig 9. “Candy”
Norman Rockwell, 27 June, 1925
The Saturday Evening Post online archive
fig 10. “Three Gossips”
Norman Rockwell, 12 Jan., 1929
The Saturday Evening Post online archive
fig 11. “Wet Paint”
Norman Rockwell, 12 Apr., 1930
The Saturday Evening Post online archive
Her artwork is evidence of engaging in another stationary activity
When adult men and women are featured together, it is often in the context of a heterosexual romantic scene. Sometimes the women are interested in the male character (fig 12) and sometimes, perhaps even more often, they display a visible annoyance or distaste for this man (fig 13&14). Their attachments to each other are often clear, the man and woman are romantically involved, happily or otherwise. These are the only kinds of romantic relationships featured in Rockwell’s covers, which is not necessarily surprising given the time they were made, but is worth noting. These kinds of relationships, these attachments between men and women, are meant to be representations of “ordinary” relationships, with their ups and downs. The heterosexual relationship, not just through the work of Rockwell alone, becomes what is “natural.”
fig 12. “Milkmaid”
Norman Rockwell, 25 July, 1931
The Saturday Evening Post online archive
fig 13. “Yarn Spinner”
Norman Rockwell, 8 Nov., 1930
The Saturday Evening Post online archive
fig 14. “Man Courting Two Sisters”
Norman Rockwell, 4 May, 1929
The Saturday Evening Post online archive
Now let’s imagine holding up a copy of The Saturday Evening Post, pre 1940s, next to our cover of Vanity Fair. We can see lang’s cheeks have the same rosiness that Rockwell’s white protagonists share. The background of the Vanity Fair cover is similarly blank, with the same kind of black and white text that old Rockwell covers had. Crawford and lang even cover the title of the magazine, much like Rockwell’s characters covered the title of the Saturday Evening Post. The way lang holds her mouth, too, is reminiscent of many of the expressions in Rockwell’s paintings, which often include a tightlipped expression for a range of emotions. She has a blissful, relaxed expression, like many of the male protagonists in Rockwell’s covers.
Crawford is, at the very least, standing. She is in a more active role, even if it is in service of her partner. The act of shaving in this photo is a particularly intimate act. Crawford holds a sharp razor at lang's throat, as a tool of care and not of harm. There is trust placed in Crawford's character, she has agency and responsibility even as she is in a position of servitude. Her femininity is exaggerated in this photo, contrasting lang's masculinity, which emphasizes the two different roles they are playing, though they are both women.
Reproduced for clarity
lang is everything that the men on Rockwell’s covers hope to be. She wears the same kind of suit that the men on the Saturday Evening Post covers wear and her shoes similarly shine. As a woman taking on this masculine role, she queers this entire image. lang completely steps outside of the female gender expressions in Rockwell’s work by fully embodying her masculinity in this photo, . She has displaced the man entirely, making this image comprised of only women, which again, is rare for Rockford. Her female masculinity also signals her butch identity. It’s not just the fact that lang is a woman wearing a suit, but that she is a butch lesbian who is wearing the kinds of clothes that butch lesbians wear. Not only would the average audience at this time know that lang is a lesbian, part of why she is on the cover is the fact that she refuses to hide or deny who she is, but the romantic tension between her and Crawford clears up all doubt. lang’s embodiment of the masculine role shakes expectations. Her place in this photo triggers a cascade of broken norms, making this image fundamentally queer.
This image was created in response to the norms frequently depicted in Rockwell’s work, but he did not invent them. Rockwell created images that would sell, images that fell within the boundaries of what he was “allowed” to make, what the Saturday Evening Post would allow to be published. He was confined by the same norms that he would reproduce in his magazine covers, he was not meant to create anything too “radical” or “alternative.” This Vanity Fair cover is creation unrestrained, playing with restrictive norms to break them down. The greatest art is driven by genuine passion and desire, it cannot be created while the artist is concerned about following rules. Rockwell knew this too, when he finally left the Saturday Evening Post and created his first commission for a magazine called Look. He created perhaps his most famous painting, The Problem We All Live With (Cooks 41).
The Problem We All Live With
Illustration for Look, January 14, 1964, pp. 22-23
Oil on canvas
Norman Rockwell Museum Collection, NRM.1975.01