The creators of an art piece are just as necessary to understand as the piece itself, especially for the cover of a magazine like Vanity Fair. Each key player, the subjects and the photographer, was specifically chosen for this cover. They are each a unique access point to more information about the 1993 Vanity Fair cover.
The “star” of this photo is k.d. lang, indicated by the fairly large text on the right side of the cover: “k.d. lang’s Edge.” Born Kathy Dawn Lang, she changed her name “for no real reason, other than she liked the way it looked on paper,” to k.d. lang, “written entirely in lowercase letters in honor of a favorite poet, e.e. cummings” (Starr 29). lang, born in Alberta, Canada in 1961, grew committed to music as a teenager and "jumped at every chance to sing in front of an audience" (Starr 8). Her band, "k.d. lang and The Reclines" released their first album A Truly Western Experience in 1984. She initially attempted to find success in the Nashville music scene, starting in 1986, but was eventually ousted after refusing to fit into the stereotypical country scene (Starr 81). Her very public anti-meat stance destroyed “any semblance of peaceful coexistence with Nashville” and led to many radio stations refusing to play her music (Bennetts). lang’s manager at the time, Larry Wanagas, also claimed that she didn’t find success in Nashville because “She didn't look like you're supposed to look. You're supposed to look like all the rest of them,” meaning she didn’t fit the typical southern mold (qtd. in Bennetts).
k.d. lang, 1992. Paul Natkin/Getty Images
lang disregarded norms and broke boundaries throughout her career. It is perhaps the reason why she was so enticing at the time the cover was made, there were not a lot of women who looked like her in the public eye. The cover’s accompanying article, “k.d lang Cuts It Close” by Leslie Bennetts, speaks to lang’s history of and desire to transgress boundaries. This comes across in the many evolutions of lang’s looks, which are “enough to make you dizzy” (Bennetts). The aesthetics of her butch identity certainly transgress gendered boundaries regarding fashion. Bennetts points to these gendered boundaries by noting that lang wears “what some describe as ‘men's clothes.’” lang’s performance of her butch identity resists traditional categorizations and norms surrounding what men and women are supposed to look like. Her masculinity is easily recognizable in her career as an artist: “gender bending has always been lang's stock-in-trade” and it certainly shows up on the Vanity Fair cover (Bennetts).
Cover for Absolute Torch and Twang by k.d. lang and The Reclines, Suffragette Records
lang was butch, or masculine, before she ever publicly came out as a lesbian. She even wondered if she needed to officially declare her identity, since she had always been living openly and publicly as herself (Bennetts). While coming out in an article for June 1992 issue of queer magazine The Advocate may not have been a big deal for lang, there was a noticeable impact: “...a number of contentious issues arose with regard to the reception ... of her openly acknowledged lesbianism.” (Bennetts; Elliott). There were concerns for the state of her music career, especially since she came out during the AIDS crisis. Though there was some negative feedback, like facing “a picket line outside the Grammys,” she continued to receive success (Savage). Five years after her Vanity Fair cover, an article in the lesbian magazine Deneuve pronounced lang “royalty in the Lesbian Nation” (Bowers and Turner). It is lang’s openness that people gravitate towards and celebrate, the same kind of ease that appears on the cover of Vanity Fair.
Cindy Crawford, appearing next to lang to conduct her shave, was a well-known model when the cover was published. She became a model at the age of 16, while still continuing her high school career and eventually graduating valedictorian (Coe 78). The year this cover photo was released, Crawford was making around 15 million dollars a year as a spokesperson, representative, and model (Coe 76). She also created the popular Cindy Crawford’s Shape Your Body Workout video and appeared on MTV’s House of Style before appearing on the cover of Vanity Fair (Coe 76). She is no stranger to commercial success; Forbes would name her “the highest paid model” in 1995 (“Throwback Thursday).
As a model, Crawford was famous for appearing in photos and looking beautiful. Her presence on the cover of Vanity Fair is not particularly surprising, given that this is what models do for a living. The accompanying article for this cover photo doesn’t even mention her. It was normal for such a beautiful and successful model to be on the cover of a popular magazine. What isn’t normative, and thus particularly powerful, is her reaction to and interaction with her counterpart in this photo. Crawford fulfills the same role she would be playing if the person in the chair was a man. She remains erotically charged and positioned towards lang in all of her butch glory. The way Crawford is positioned, behind lang, leaning towards her, hands on lang’s face, all serve to elevate lang’s position in this photo. Her “ordinary” presence in this photo is noteworthy. She, in perhaps a more subtle way than lang, is breaking boundaries too, by displaying attraction for another woman and attending to her in a way that emphasizes lang’s masculinity. She is fulfilling the other half of the lesbian attraction in this photo. The role that Crawford plays in this photo adds to its queerness.
Cindy Crawford. People
Another piece from the Vanity Fair photoshoot wiht k.d. lang and Cindy Crawford, photographed by Herb Ritts. This image can be found in the pages of the August 1993 issue Vanity Fair or digitized on the Vanity Fair website.
Herb Ritts, by Richard Gere. Herbritts.com
Since we're studying a photo, we must also consider the creative voice behind the camera. Herb Ritts was not just the photographer for the August 1993 cover of Vanity Fair, he also shot on multiple issues for them and other magazines (Vanity Fair’s Hollywood; “Biography”). Ritts began his work as a photographer in the late 70s and became a famous commercial and artistic photographer. He was friends with both Crawford and lang by the time this photo was taken (Coe; lang). Ritts’s work “challenged conventional notions of gender or race,” which is certainly exemplified in this Vanity Fair cover. He also “produced some of the most important homoerotic images of the… '90s...” (Che & Kaye). Ritts was “committed to HIV/AIDS-related causes and contributed to many charitable organizations” and eventually died of HIV/AIDS complications in December, 2002 (“Biography”).
Ritts was an openly gay photographer, creating specifically queer images. The 1993 Vanity Fair cover is a particularly strong example of this influence. Not only is this image portraying a queer engagement, but there were queer people involved in its creation as well. Ritts’s history in commercial photography and subversive art lends credibility to an analysis of this photo as something that defies boundaries and normative categorization.
Each person involved in this photo contributed to its subversive, boundary-breaking nature in their own unique capacity. Together, they created one of the most popular examples of mainstream lesbian representation.
Duo, Los Angeles 1990
Photographed by Herb Ritts
A part of a series featuring bodybuilders who were also lovers.