My designs are inspired by the folklore of the people of my country. The clothes they wear are colorful and mysterious. Each piece of this clothing has a hidden story. I want to be a storyteller. I use costume design elements to tell you a story. And the one who wears it will be the next storyteller.
I have been fascinated with history in every form for as long as I can remember. Whether it was Shakespeare’s plays, Edwardian clothing, or Gothic architecture it has never failed to capture my imagination or interest. It’s what lead me to achieve a degree in Art History and it is what has now lead me down the path of Dress History.
Out of all the centuries of fashion from our past, I was drawn first to the Late Edwardian era in part due to its gorgeous silhouette deceptively intricate designs. It is a unique transitional era in clothing between Early Edwardian and 1920’s fashion where the fashionable silhouette begins to diverge from the curvaceousness seen in the previous century towards an elongated columnar look which ultimately leads into the 1920’s flat, straight silhouette which has become so iconic. For my two ensembles, both of which are a blouse and skirt combination, I created the entire look from the ground up, including the appropriate undergarments of the era, which are essential to achieving the Late Edwardian silhouette. It is important to note that this era also coincides with the 100th anniversary of the 19th amendment. This amendment, which grants women the right to vote, was ratified in 1920 due to the tireless protests of suffragettes which began with Millicent Fawcett in 1897. This historic moment was a large factor in my decision to create clothing prom this era, and in a way makes me feel closer to the women I owe so much to.
The fact that these hats came about in the 100th anniversary year of the 19th amendment was purely a fluke but it must have been in the cards for here they are. I have always loved the fashion styles of the 20s, 30s, and 40s, and in particular the hats and shoes. While I was searching for patterns and designs I found some fun facts about the Flapper of the 20s. Surprisingly, she could not vote, for only women 30 years of age and older got that first chance to vote and the Flapper was a very young woman, so named for the flapping pigtails hanging down her back. Obviously, that hairstyle changed quickly. These popular cloche styles were all the rage and perfectly complimented that new bobbed haircut. Also, almost every woman knew how to knit or crochet. So the crocheted cloche was quite common.
Although, there is nothing new under the sun (as you can see by the photo) I found these patterns on Ravelry.com. They are by a German designer named Janina Winkler. I have changed the color schemes and varied the yarn weights from the original patterns because I am always guessing weights and it's become a game to me to choose yarns by sight and feel. Sometimes I have to double or triple up yarns to get close to the original thickness. I crocheted these over the summer months of 2020 looking forward to the end of a very trying year and the prospects of a "roaring" new decade.
It took 70 years for the 19th amendment to be ratified and still black women were not given the right to vote. There was much polarity and divisiveness throughout the women’s suffrage movement, challenged with issues of race and inclusion. Whether it was a vote for all women or just white women often had to do with geographical location and their current social politics. In the same vein - what the women wore also had an impact on how the movement was viewed. Being controlled through fashion garments was a trigger for female independence and the right to vote. Among others Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Susan B Anthony, and Amelia Bloomer adopted the style of short skirts over Turkish trousers (trousers with full legs that gathered to fit tightly at the ankle) as a way of dress to accommodate their needs of greater mobility. The racial inequity and the desire to move more freely were the inspirations behind these white washed 80s bloomers.
The Music Man, set in 1912, tells the tale of transformation from the old to the new, a town hesitant to adjust to the winds of change. Eulalie Mackecknie Shinn, the mayor's wife, will not stand by without putting up a fight as she and her Ladies' League lead the way to a more empowered future.
Costumes created by students of the American River College Costume Shop
My inspiration for my 2019 Collection "Breaking Glass Ceilings" was my daughter “Nikki”. My daughter is a very smart, ambitious, strong, caring person who is on the verge of entering into the field of Microbiology Sciences. Typically, Math and Science fields are dominated by men. I wanted to show her that she can be strong yet show her feminine side in a field dominated by men. My daughter is a prime example of today’s version of the “Suffrage Movement.”