Date arrived: 4th February 2024

Date Departed: 7th February 2024

Favourite sight: Craft beer!

Average Cost: £54.20 PPPD (£19.20 PPPD excluding treat budget)

Olaulim Backyards is a small private resort in inland Goa, and was recommended by travellers we met in Mexico - of course. It is an enclave of civility and calm in the midst of India! We spent a few nights here as a treat at the beginning of February.

4th February 2024

When we arrived at Thivim railway station, around 10KM north of Olaulim, we were met by the local taxi driver, Anand, who's services had been helpfully arranged by Pirkko at Olaulim Backyards. He drove us to the site, through some very narrow and windy roads, and then eventually dropped us off... in Paradise.

We'd seen pictures of Olaulim Backyards from their website, but that doesn't really do it justice. The place is truly beautiful. From the minute you pass through the bamboo gate next to Nikita's Backyard Cafe, and cross a literal acre of well tended grass to reach the swimming pool and bar, you walk into an oasis of calm that takes you away from India and into somewhere else.

We were met from the car by Pirkko, one half of the couple that runs the site, who welcomed us as if she'd known us forever, rather than exchanged a half-dozen WhatsApp messages. Our heavy bags were quickly picked up and disappeared, and we were given a friendly tour of the site on our way to our room. As we went we were casually introduced to various others staying there, Europeans and Indians both, and even an American couple. 

Passing the breakfast area, the pool, and the honesty bar - the Taverna Hama Hama - we were shown to Sunbird, our little self-contained cottage secreted amongst the palm trees. From the outdoor shower in it's own little swathe of greenery, through to the mahogany four-poster bed, and the front verandah overlooking the river, the place was perfect. It reeked of care and attention to detail, and whilst comfortable, maintained a good balance between luxury and pragmatism. We were so pleased to be spending a few nights here!

After unwinding in the room for a while, we wandered out to sit by the pool, updating the notepad on the honesty bar with details of the two ice cold beers we took from the fridge. We got chatting with a retired British GP who was over in India visiting her son and his family - a fascinating lady. She was only planning to stay here one night, but seemed to still be here three days later when we checked out. It didn't surprise us to learn that guests often stay here for longer than they initially plan - and were our itinerary not as tight as it was, we could easily have done the same.

Olaulim Backyards provides Bed and Breakfast accommodation, but the Backyard Cafe, nestled just outside the gate, provides an excellent menu for lunch and dinner. Run by Nikita, a superb chef, and incorporating the Great State Dive bar, complete with a range of real ales on tap, this is a really good eatery and served us proud during our stay!

In fact, we visited the Backyard Cafe on that first evening, and as this place felt so different to anywhere else we'd been in India, I broke with my habits of the last three months and went for some red meat. Choosing one of Nikita's Beef burgers, complete with cheesy filling, turned out to be a really good decision, and it paired up perfectly with the nicely hopped IPA that I eventually settled on after trying several generous samples from the bar. 

Julie opted for the day's special fish - Chonak - served filleted and fried in a delicious and delicate curry sauce, which went rather well with my spare chips. All in all, our first few hours at Olaulim were superb!

5th February

Waking up at a leisurely 8.30, accompanied by the tweeting of birds and the odd bray from Mantra the donkey, was rather idyllic. We both enjoyed hot showers, surrounded by lush greenery and the sounds of nature, in the outside bathroom, before wandering over to the breakfast area at about 9.30. 

Breakfast at the Backyards is one of the many highlights, as Savio and Pirkko mingle with the guests, and conversations flow across a variety of topics, all against a background of delicious food and freshly percolated coffee. Mmmm. There are just 5 rooms here, so never more than a dozen guests, which makes for a really relaxed atmosphere. Breakfast starts at 9, and seems to go on until everyone is finished; I don't think we spent less than 90 minutes here on any of the three days we stayed, such was the easy conversation and good coffee.

After breakfast we took advantage of one of the inclusive activities available at the Backyards, and borrowed a couple of bicycles. They were pretty high quality machines (one even had disc brakes) and we set off into the nearby village, both to explore, and to get some cash from the ATM!

Unfortunately mild disaster struck as Julie, distracted by a barking dog and attempting to rescue a wind-blown hat, managed to fall off her bike and nastily graze her elbow :-( This was nothing to do with the bikes I should add - just simple user error. The injury was minor, and we were able to clean and loosely bandage it with the first aid bits we had with us, however we felt it best to head back to the  Backyards to clean it properly.

This is where Pirkko was, unsurprisingly, incredibly helpful once more, providing us with Iodine, cotton wool and bandages before I'd even made it back to the room to grab our first aid kit. Wound cleaned up without even needing any of the three medical professionals currently in residence, we called into the Backyard Cafe for a simple lunch, before spending the afternoon doing what is done best at Olaulim Backyards. Relaxing!

6th February

After a relatively early night, I woke up just before the sun and left Julie sleeing to get up and watch the sunrise. The river was covered in a layer of low mist as the sky came to pale life, and the whole effect was rather magical. I decided to take out one of Olaulim Backyards Canoes and watch the sun coming up from the water. This was a good decision.

The evolution of a sunrise over Olaulim Backyards. This was a perfect, tranquil moment of beautiful calm.

With the sun awake - and me awake - I went back to the room at a more civilised hour, and enjoyed another excellent shower in the outdoor bathroom, as Julie woke up gradually. 

We once more enjoyed a delicious and sociable breakfast, before setting out for a busy day doing as little as we could! Julie's injury was a perfect excuse, but with the lovely setting here, we didn't really need one.

At lunchtime we realised that the Backyard Cafe was closed today - it closes on a Tuesday - which seemed only fair, as that gave some of the other local restaurants a shot at some business. I set out to visit the well recommended Whispering Cafe, a half hour or-so's walk away, although I have to confess it felt a lot further in the 38 degree heat today!

The cafe lived up to it's reputation, and as I'd started on red meat this week already, I stayed with the theme, taking the opportunity to enjoy a pulled pork open sandwich. I collected an avocado equivalent to take back for Julie, as well as a pizza menu for dinner!

After Julie enjoyed her lunch, we sat out by the pool for a bit, dipping our feet into the refreshing water to help mitigate the simmering heat of the afternoon. Meanwhile some of the other guests were having a low-key concert as one of their number, a singer-songwriter by profession, demonstrated his craft with a borrowed guitar. Looking around we could see people reading under the trees, swimming in the pool, and even kayaking out on the river in a perfect little snapshot of tranquility,

Later on we borrowed the canoe once again and went out together onto the river, enjoying the birds flitting hither and thither, and sharing a few words with other guests who were out on Kayaks, or even swimming.

Quite predictable, we ordered that pizza from the Whispering Cafe for our tea (the proprieter had been on a 5 week course in Italy to learn how to make pizza!) and I enjoyed a good natter with another of the guests while we waited for our delivery at the gates.

7th February

As we prepared to leave Olaulim Backyards, our ride with Anand already booked, we enjoyed one more long and leisurely breakfast with our hosts and fellow guests. If you've been reading the rest of this site, you can probably spot that the way I've talked about these few days has been very different to the rest of our trip.

That's because these few days were very different, and we really did absolutely love our stay with Savio and Pirkko in their beautiful home.